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Best Climbing Shoes for Women of 2020

By Jane Jackson ⋅ Senior Review Editor
Wednesday November 18, 2020
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Over the past decade, our team has tested over 45 of the best women's climbing shoes, recently purchasing 19 of 2020's best models for our latest round of side-by-side testing. We've put in a significant amount of time and effort scanning online retailers and perusing local gear shops in order to bring the best products to you. Hundreds of pitches and boulder problems have been climbed to get the most accurate results. We've climbed cracks, pulled on pockets, fallen off our projects, and tip-toed up delicate slabs all in the name of testing. From circuits in the gym to the sweeping walls of the Verdon Gorge, we have put in the time to help you find the right pair of climbing shoes.

Top 19 Product Ratings

Displaying 1 - 5 of 19
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Best Overall Women's Climbing Shoes


La Sportiva Miura VS - Women's


Editors' Choice Award

$138.75
(25% off)
at Backcountry
See It

87
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Comfort - 25% 8
  • Sensitivity - 25% 9
  • Edging - 15% 10
  • Cracks - 15% 8
  • Pockets - 15% 9
  • Ease of Use - 5% 7
Style: Velcro | Sole rubber: Vibram XS Grip2
High performing all-around shoe
Great for edging
Performs well on slabby, vertical, and overhanging routes
Very adjustable
Provides arch support for longer days
Expensive
Aggressive shape can cause discomfort

The La Sportiva Miura VS has been around for a long time. These shoes are ubiquitous at most climbing areas around the world. Some women climb long backcountry big walls in the Miura VS, while others swear by them for steep sport lines. With its range of applications, high scores across the board, and loyal following, the Miura VS is an obvious choice for overall favorite. These shoes are some of the most sensitive edging machines we've tested. Their slight downturn makes them great for steep climbing, but they have a stiff enough midsole to beat some of the top performers on vertical terrain as well. With three Velcro straps, they are easy to adjust and fit a wide range of foot shapes. Sized for a bit of extra room, they can be great for all-day comfort on hard free routes. Sized tight, they are the perfect shoe for your steep sport project. All-around performance is the name of the game here.

Read review: La Sportiva Miura VS — Women's

Best Bang for the Buck


Mad Rock Lotus


Best Buy Award

$89.21
(25% off)
at Backcountry
See It

72
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Comfort - 25% 8
  • Sensitivity - 25% 8
  • Edging - 15% 8
  • Cracks - 15% 4
  • Pockets - 15% 7
  • Ease of Use - 5% 7
Style: Velcro | Sole rubber: Science Friction 3.0 rubber
Reasonably priced
Combines comfort and performance
Sticky soles
Can be sized up or down based on use
Lacks versatility
Bulky heel cup
Still costly

These strange-looking little Velcro slippers were a pleasant surprise to us during our testing period. Though the Mad Rock Lotus look aggressive and are hard to get on at first, they broke in to be some of the most comfortable, supple, and sensitive shoes we tested. All of this at a reasonable price (in comparison to their high-performance rivals). These shoes deliver high performance on both steep and vertical terrain and even surprised us on slabs. If you are in search of a shoe that caters more toward the beginner climber, check out the Evolv Shakra. The Scarpa Arpia is another option that lands between the Shakra and the Lotus in terms of comfort and downturn.

The Lotus is relatively inexpensive compared to some of its competitors. These shoes are great for folks who want a more aggressive shoe but don't want to spend a couple of hundred bucks to get 'em. The Lotus does great on steep sport climbs, boulders, and in the gym. It holds its own against the competition in our metric comparisons, all while costing significantly less than most aggressive, high-performance shoes.

Read review: Mad Rock Lotus

Great Value for Beginners


La Sportiva Tarantulace - Women's


Best Buy Award

$63.69
(25% off)
at REI
See It

64
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Comfort - 25% 9
  • Sensitivity - 25% 4
  • Edging - 15% 7
  • Cracks - 15% 7
  • Pockets - 15% 4
  • Ease of Use - 5% 8
Style: Lace | Sole rubber: Frixion RS
Affordable
Design is focused on comfort
Easy to lace and adjust
Decent all-arounder
Not the stickiest rubber we've tested
Lacks sensitivity

The La Sportiva Tarantulace - Women's is our top recommendation for new climbers who are ready to commit to buying their own pair of shoes. The Tarantulace is first and foremost comfortable - their soft leather uppers will stretch with wear. The shoes are not aggressively shaped like our value recommendation, so they work great for all-day multi-pitch climbs or long gym sessions. They do have a slight downturn which helps them excel as an edging shoe. We found them to work best on vertical terrain with decently sized footholds.

Once the angle gets steeper, or the holds become more like smears, the Tarantualces start to become a bit more challenging to trust. The rubber compound is not the stickiest we've tested, and the stiffness of the sole makes them a bit hard to smear with, especially on footless granite slabs. This aside, the Tarantulaces are still great shoes for most introductory climbing.

Read review: La Sportiva Tarantulace - Women's

Best for Steep Climbing and Bouldering


La Sportiva Solution Comp - Women's


Top Pick Award

$138.75
(25% off)
at Backcountry
See It

80
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Comfort - 25% 8
  • Sensitivity - 25% 9
  • Edging - 15% 5
  • Cracks - 15% 7
  • Pockets - 15% 10
  • Ease of Use - 5% 8
Style: Velco | Sole rubber: Vibram XS Grip
Aggressive, asymmetrical shape
Precise toe box
Slipper design combines comfort and performance
Great heel cup
Super sensitive in both toe and heel
Expensive
Specific design lacks versatility

Much like their close relative, the Solution, the brand new La Sportiva Solution Comp is most at home on steep sport climbs and boulders. The Solution Comp is a lot like the Solution in terms of design and performance, only better, making this slick slipper a great choice for sport climbing and bouldering. The updated toe box is a bit wider and has more rubber on top for toe hooking and scumming. This design also provides more room for the toes, making the Comp very comfortable. Additionally, the Solution Comp's heel cup is lower profile and more sensitive than the original Solution. Like a well-fitting glove, the Solution Comp suctions onto your foot to turn it into a high-performance, precise talon — ideal for toeing in on steep terrain. These slipper-like shoes combine comfort and performance so well that only the original Solution and the La Sportiva Futura came close in comparison. We wore these shoes on everything from granite slabs to steep sport climbs to highball boulder problems.

For some, the slipper-like fit and soft midsole may be too much. The shape is an acquired taste and can cause some discomfort at first. These shoes are designed for high-performance rock climbing, and the lack of versatility can be a bit limiting. Keep that in mind when considering the Solution Comp.

Read review: La Sportiva Solution Comp - Women's

Best for Versatility


La Sportiva Skwama - Women's


Top Pick Award

$127.50
(25% off)
at Backcountry
See It

86
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Comfort - 25% 9
  • Sensitivity - 25% 9
  • Edging - 15% 7
  • Cracks - 15% 9
  • Pockets - 15% 8
  • Ease of Use - 5% 9
Style: Velcro | Sole rubber: Vibram XS Grip2
Precise
Comfortable
Perform well on both steep and vertical terrain
Sticky soles
Expensive
Stretch out with use

The incredibly comfortable La Sportiva Skwama is one of our favorite shoes and our go-to for most of our projects - whether a steep, overhanging pocketed line or a technical crimpy face. The Skwamas are confidence-inspiring on the smallest smears and the greasiest limestone footholds. We've climbed in these shoes on technical sandstone boulders in Fontainbleau and on steep tufa lines in Southern France. We also wear the Skwamas bouldering in the Buttermilks and in Yosemite. It's an incredibly versatile shoe, and we almost always throw the Skwama in our bag, no matter where we're headed.

Read review: La Sportiva Skwama — Women's

Best for Multi-Pitch and Crack Climbing


Scarpa Maestro Mid Eco - Women's


79
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Comfort - 25% 9
  • Sensitivity - 25% 8
  • Edging - 15% 8
  • Cracks - 15% 9
  • Pockets - 15% 5
  • Ease of Use - 5% 7
Style: Lace | Sole rubber: Vibram XS Edge
Laces make them highly adjustable
Stiff midsole, but soft enough to wedge into cracks
Soft, comfortable leather uppers
Great edging shoe
Pricey
Laces and leather uppers could have durability issues

The Scarpa Maestro Mid Eco is one of the softest, most comfortable shoes we've ever worn. The laces make these shoes super easy to adjust — cinch them down when it's time to take the sharp end on the crux pitch or loosen them up to accommodate socks on a crisp alpine start. A medium-stiff midsole makes these shoes versatile — they can hold an edge to cop a stem rest but are soft enough to squish into a .75 crack when necessary. The Maestro can smear up a stout 5.9 slab with ease and can provide ankle protect on a desert offwidth grovel fest.

The only downside to the Maestro is its price tag. These shoes are expensive, no doubt. For a boot that's bound to get beat up in wide cracks and long days on the wall, it can be hard to wrap one's head around paying so much for a seemingly delicate shoe. We only wore these shoes for a few months, but durability could be an issue if you tend to beat up on your shoes. Regardless, we loved the Maestro for crack and multi-pitch climbing.

Read review: Scarpa Maestro Mid Eco — Women's


Off the deck  the Anasazi was a bit soft  but performed good enough on the giant holds found in the Tablelands.
Off the deck, the Anasazi was a bit soft, but performed good enough on the giant holds found in the Tablelands.

Why You Should Trust Us


Our testers spend more time climbing than they probably ought to. Our lead tester Jane Jackson spends a lot of her time climbing in Yosemite and the High Sierra. Previously a member of Yosemite Search and Rescue, Jane has done her fair share of big wall climbing in Valley. That said, in recent years, she prefers free climbing, which allows her to put the many aggressive and colorful shoes in this review to the test. From the sweeping and imposing limestone walls of France's Verdon Gorge to the perfectly parallel cracks found in the desert Southwest closer to home, and finally (and somewhat begrudgingly) to the hallowed boulders of the Buttermilks, our testers have put these shoes through a smattering of different climbing styles. In each of these storied locales, we painstakingly broke in each shoe reviewed here and tested them out in various climbing styles. While a jack of all trades may be a master of none, we can at least make well-founded judgments on the performance of each of these shoes in a wide range of climbing styles.

Our lead tester in the Utah Hills near St. George  Utah.
Our lead tester in the Utah Hills near St. George, Utah.

What Makes Climbing Shoes Women's Specific?


What is the difference between a woman's climbing shoe and a man's? What are the advantages of a woman's shoe? Are women limited to just the "women's" models? The answer to that question is: absolutely not! Women's specific shoes are relatively new to the market, and before that, ladies had to go with men's or unisex models. There are still many shoes in production that only come in a unisex model, and they are fair game, as are the products with the women's specific label.

Related: Best Climbing Shoes of 2020

Aside from the superficial (like color schemes), the defining difference between men's and women's shoes is that they are usually constructed around different lasts (the form matching the foot's anatomy off which a shoe is patterned). The female last will be similar to that of the male version, but usually a little narrower, especially in the heel. Other differences may include a higher arch, a thinner and longer toe box, and a lower instep. These changes in last dimensions can enhance the fit for many women, particularly those who have low-volume or very narrow feet.

Booting up for another pitch in Southern France.
Booting up for another pitch in Southern France.

Analysis and Test Results


In each iteration of our women's climbing shoe review, we see more choices available; in fact, the past couple of years have been marked by an increase in the number of women's specific shoes produced by manufacturers. If you have a narrow and/or low-volume foot, this is great news! There are tons of choices out there from all the familiar brands that are catering to women specifically. That said, unisex climbing shoes are designed to be just that — unisex. So, don't feel like you are limited solely to women's specific shoes.

An array of women's climbing shoes - most brands make women's specific models  but don't be afraid to try out a unisex version! Our lead tester has wide feet and often prefers the men's version of many popular shoes on the market.
An array of women's climbing shoes - most brands make women's specific models, but don't be afraid to try out a unisex version! Our lead tester has wide feet and often prefers the men's version of many popular shoes on the market.

Despite the regular additions to the women's specific shoe market, there are still gaps in coverage, though progress is being made. However, this review is the first time we were able to exclusively compare women's specific models. Finally, there are enough options available to conduct an extensive, side-by-side analysis.

A shoe for every style. Once you get into climbing  it can be hard to choose one pair that suits every type of climbing.
A shoe for every style. Once you get into climbing, it can be hard to choose one pair that suits every type of climbing.

It should be noted that we have shoes designed for a variety of different climbing disciplines, and they've been combined into this one review. This predicament creates problems when trying to perform a comparative analysis. To address this issue, we have highlighted the differences between the various models and also highlighted which models are most comparable, so if you are looking for a specific style, you can quickly narrow your search.

Camp 4 provides a great testing ground. There may not be slicker footholds on earth.
Camp 4 provides a great testing ground. There may not be slicker footholds on earth.

Value


The price of climbing shoes seems to be increasing each year. Preparing to throw down as much as a few Benjamins for a new pair of shoes of which the performance and lasting fit are yet unknown can make the selection process a bit overwhelming. At these prices, we want to make sure that we are getting the right tool for the job! The most expensive shoes in this review are the Scarpa Furia. Both the La Sportiva Solution and the La Sportiva Solution Comp are close behind. These shoes are designed for a particular use (steep face climbs) and are typically purchased by experienced climbers who want to up their technical climbing game. The Scarpa Maestro Mid Eco is a bit more versatile and comfortable, but still costs a pretty penny.

A well-loved  much worn pair of Skwamas that look like they've almost reached retirement  based on the amount of rubber left on the toe.
A well-loved, much worn pair of Skwamas that look like they've almost reached retirement, based on the amount of rubber left on the toe.

For more reasonably priced shoes, look at brands like Butora and Mad Rock, who make high-quality products at lower prices. We love the Mad Rock Lotus as a less expensive (but similar in style) counterpart to the Solution. For a comfortable and fairly reasonably priced introductory shoe, check out the Evolv Shakra. We were also impressed by the Butora Gomi, which is a high-performance shoe comparable to the Solution, with a more affordable price tag. La Sportiva also has a few reasonably priced models - most notably the Tarantulace - Women's, which earned honors for its exceptional value. These shoes are some of the few available that cost under a hundred dollars.

There is a wide price range within the climbing shoe world. It may take some time to figure out which model has the features you need with a price tag you can manage. However, when the toes are wearing thin on your current shoes, buying a new shoe isn't your only option. You can always save some cash by purchasing from a used gear shop, or by sending your old standbys to a re-sole company to extend their life. These are great options when the anxiety of spending a lot of money on a new pair of kicks washes over you!


Comfort


Evaluating the comfort of a climbing shoe is difficult, and many folks have different ideas of what makes a comfortable shoe. Climbing shoes, in general, are going to be less comfortable than shoes worn around town. Some people size their shoes small to get the tightest fit possible for maximum performance.


Others will want a shoe whose fit feels more that of a street shoe for all-day comfort. We based our evaluation on how closely the shoes hugged our feet, how crammed our toes felt, and on the extra features that make a shoe bearable to wear.

Delicate top outs make for great opportunities to test these shoes' ability to perform. The Libras surprised us as a great all-around shoe.
Delicate top outs make for great opportunities to test these shoes' ability to perform. The Libras surprised us as a great all-around shoe.

Naturally, all the shoes with a flatter shape, like the Five Ten Anasazi LV and Scarpa Maestro Mid Eco, are more comfortable to wear for extended periods than models with an aggressive downturn. This increased comfort is due to the more natural position in which these shoes hold your feet. The Unparallel Up Lace is also fairly flat and comfortable for all-day outings. We also found that the Evolv Shakra fit comfortably enough to wear them for hours at the gym without taking them off.

The Unparallel Up Lace is comfortable enough to be worn all day.
The Unparallel Up Lace is comfortable enough to be worn all day.

Downturned shoes push your toes into the front of the shoe to amplify their power and allow the climber to toe-in on small holds more aggressively.

The Solution Comp is quite downturned  but super comfortable.
The Solution Comp is quite downturned, but super comfortable.

Surprisingly a few of the most aggressively downturned shoes that we tested, such as the La Sportiva Solution Comp , also turned out to be some of the most comfortable. These shoes don't crush your toes, and they have a sock-like tongue that cradles the foot. The affordable Mad Rock Lotus also fit snuggly and comfortably.

The padding on the inside of the heel on the women's Miura. This padding helps to tighten up the fit for narrower heels and also adds a lot of comfort  making these shoes even more pleasant to wear.
The padding on the inside of the heel on the women's Miura. This padding helps to tighten up the fit for narrower heels and also adds a lot of comfort, making these shoes even more pleasant to wear.

The La Sportiva Miura VS has bonus comfort features like a padded heel and a padded tongue that tightens the fit for women and makes it very pleasant to wear. Both the Velcro model and the lace-up model have these features. We found the Velcro model to be much more comfortable overall.

Friction climbing is the ultimate test of a shoe's sensitivity  and of a brand's rubber! Shown here is the Vapor by Scarpa.
Friction climbing is the ultimate test of a shoe's sensitivity, and of a brand's rubber! Shown here is the Vapor by Scarpa.

We also noticed that some shoes hug the whole foot, leaving no air pockets or dead space inside. Some shoes with very flat midsoles left pockets of space below the arch of the foot, resulting in a less comfortable fit overall. Surprisingly, the La Sportiva Tarantulace has a fairly flat midsole, yet still seems to hug the sole of the foot comfortably.

Difficult to get on at first  the Lotus breaks in to be very comfortable and fits like a rubber glove  much like the La Sportiva Solution.
Difficult to get on at first, the Lotus breaks in to be very comfortable and fits like a rubber glove, much like the La Sportiva Solution.

The La Sportiva Solution Comp, Scarpa Instinct VS, and Mad Rock Lotus all hug the foot entirely with no dead space, and we preferred this close fit. The La Sportiva Skwama also hugs the foot. Its soft sole and sensitivity made it one of our favorites for multi-pitch sport climbing, where both comfort and performance matter.

Toeing in on steep granite in the Shakras.
Toeing in on steep granite in the Shakras.

Sensitivity


One of the reasons that climbers fork over one to two hundred of their hard-earned dollars for climbing shoes versus sneakers or boots is that the prior gives a climber's toes the ability to feel the rock and use minuscule features on the wall.


We find that the more sensitive and precise, the better, because we can trust our feet as we make delicate moves.

The Miura VS is a supremely sensitive shoe.
The Miura VS is a supremely sensitive shoe.

The La Sportiva Miura VS is one of the most sensitive shoes we've reviewed. Though fairly stiff and a bit downturned, these features didn't take away from its overall sensitivity on all types of terrain. We also appreciated the sensitivity of the Skwama and the Butora Acro, as they gave us the confidence to still trust our feet on the smallest holds out there.

Fresh out of the box  the Miura have a lot of rubber on the soles  which can be a bit unnerving  but  over time these soles wear in to be technical wizards on the rock!
Fresh out of the box, the Miura have a lot of rubber on the soles, which can be a bit unnerving, but, over time these soles wear in to be technical wizards on the rock!

The Five Ten Anasazi and Evolv Shakra were some of the least sensitive shoes we tested. The Anasazi felt a bit blunt in the toe box and lacked precision. The Shakra did okay in the gym and on less technical climbing but was not the shoe of choice for precision footwork.

The Butora Acro excelled in the sensitivity metric  earning one of the highest scores.
The Butora Acro excelled in the sensitivity metric, earning one of the highest scores.

Another surprise in the sensitivity department was the Mad Rock Lotus, which we had initially written off because of their overall design and their unusually bulky heel. But, after breaking them in a bit, the Lotus quickly became one of our favorite shoes, with the ability to toe into tiny holds and stick to polished granite with ease.

This is what it looks like when you climb foot-intensive multi-pitch routes in shoes not designed for edging...Ouch!
This is what it looks like when you climb foot-intensive multi-pitch routes in shoes not designed for edging...Ouch!

Edging


Edging and sensitivity are similar but apply to different styles of footholds.


Sensitivity allows you to smear on and toe into tiny footholds with confidence. Edging, as we define it, is the ability to place a toe on a small edge and have it feel like a much larger feature. This aspect of climbing shoe performance requires a stiffer sole that is supportive of the whole foot when pressing down on thin edges.

Assessing the edging ability of the Libra on the top out of yet another 5-star granite boulder problem.
Assessing the edging ability of the Libra on the top out of yet another 5-star granite boulder problem.

When it comes to edging, the La Sportiva Miura VS is top-notch. Its stiff midsole and slight downturn help toe in on gently overhanging terrain. At the same time, its shape allows for precision edging on vertical terrain and even slabs. These shoes are edging masters.

Though they are not downturned or aggressively shaped  the Finale make a fairly good shoe for vertical to slightly overhung terrain.
Though they are not downturned or aggressively shaped, the Finale make a fairly good shoe for vertical to slightly overhung terrain.

The "Powerhinge" connects the rubber rand, which wraps around the whole foot, to a hole cut in the sole on the bottom of the shoe. When the toe is weighted on an edge, the weight of the climber stretches forward from the heel towards the front of the shoe. This hole in the sole only allows the shoe to stretch in the back half, leaving the toe where you placed it on the surface of the rock. The result is that you can stand on edges with your full weight, and still feel secure. The La Sportiva Miura (lace-up version) is also impressed as an edging machine. The velcro model is slightly more downturned than its lace-up counterpart, making it great for steep, technical terrain.

Testing out the Mad Rock Lotus' edging in comparison to the Scarpa Vapor and the La Sportiva Kataki.
Testing out the Mad Rock Lotus' edging in comparison to the Scarpa Vapor and the La Sportiva Kataki.

Additionally, the Unparallel Up Lace and the Scarpa Vapor V perform well in the edging category.

Toeing into a small edge on the vertical walls of the Owen's River Gorge. These shoes work well as edging shoes due to their stiffness.
Toeing into a small edge on the vertical walls of the Owen's River Gorge. These shoes work well as edging shoes due to their stiffness.

The shoes with the least edging capability were the Five Ten Anasazi LV - Women's as our feet always wanted to roll off edges when wearing these kicks. The Scarpa Arpia also fell short in this metric. They were so soft in the midsole that we had a hard time holding an edge on vertical terrain.

The Lotus proving that even an aggressive slipper can perform on a slabby highball.
The Lotus proving that even an aggressive slipper can perform on a slabby highball.

Crack Climbing


As the name implies, the crack climbing metric evaluates how well a shoe will perform when jammed into cracks. Sliding your foot into a crack and twisting to the side so that you can stand up on it is one of the more unique ways to use your feet while climbing. A good crack shoe has a flatter shape that can fit inside a crack without painfully impacting the knuckle of the toes (as opposed to a turned down toe). Additionally, these shoes have a stiff platform that supports the whole foot, and that prevents lateral taco-ing with enough rubber along the side of the shoe to find purchase on the interior and edges of the crack. Ideally, a crack shoe will also be decent at edging and smearing since you will likely need to do all of these things on a traditional climb; even if it's just a single pitch.

Side-by-side testing in Indian Creek - a perfect place for such a thing.
Side-by-side testing in Indian Creek - a perfect place for such a thing.

Typically, we like to use the La Sportiva TC Pro for crack climbing, though this is not a women's specific shoe. The TC is stiff yet sensitive and can be sized up for a comfortable all-day shoe, or sized tight for more technical climbing. When it comes to long days of crack climbing in Yosemite Valley, for example, we typically go with TC Pros instead of one of the women's specific models found in this review.


We were psyched to check out the Scarpa Maestro Mid Eco this season and found that this shoe was as close as we could get to a women's specific version of the TC Pro. With ankle protection, edging abilities, and comfort in cracks, the Maestro was our women's specific go-to for crack climbing.

The Scarpa Maestro's getting some buttery foot jams on a solo circuit.
The Scarpa Maestro's getting some buttery foot jams on a solo circuit.

Although the Miura VS has some downturn in the toe, there is not enough of a curve to be painful when jammed, and this bit of aggression helps work the toe into difficult, finger-sized cracks.

The toe box of a shoe tells a lot about how well the shoe may perform as an edging tool. The Mad Rock Lotus has a good amount of downturn  but also enough of a flat toe to make it decent at edging as well as a heavy hitter in the steeps. The other model pictured is the Butora Acro.
The toe box of a shoe tells a lot about how well the shoe may perform as an edging tool. The Mad Rock Lotus has a good amount of downturn, but also enough of a flat toe to make it decent at edging as well as a heavy hitter in the steeps. The other model pictured is the Butora Acro.

Shoes like the La Sportiva Miura and the Unparallel Up Lace are also good lace-up crack climbing shoes. For super continuous cracks at a place like Indian Creek, Utah, the unisex Five Ten Moccasym reigns king. It is a slipper with very sticky rubber and a flat shape. When sized a bit big, it can be comfortable in cracks of any width, and the lack of laces keeps the shoe from shredding.

Some find the toe box to be a bit too asymmetrical on the Miura  but over time these shoes break in to be great for finger cracks and technical face climbs.
Some find the toe box to be a bit too asymmetrical on the Miura, but over time these shoes break in to be great for finger cracks and technical face climbs.

Shoes with a significant amount of downturn are especially uncomfortable when foot jamming. Models like the La Sportiva Solution and Butora Acro are best reserved for steep face moves. Surprisingly, the La Sportiva Skwama does fairly well in cracks, especially finger and tight-hands cracks, although it is designed as more of a steep, sporty shoe. The soft midsole and rubber-coated toe make them easy to squeeze into thin, techy jams.

The Gomi  shown here  does great on pocketed climbs.
The Gomi, shown here, does great on pocketed climbs.

Pockets


The pockets category is an evaluation of how well a given shoe can sink into a rock surface's cavities. Often a shoe with a pointed toe will excel in this particular medium. Moreover, a shoe with a downturn in the toe will offer the added advantage of hooking pockets on steep to overhanging terrain (as opposed to simply pressing down on them), allowing you to pull your hips in close to the wall for efficient body positioning.


Bear in mind that the pockets evaluation is, in many ways, the polar opposite of the crack climbing assessment. As such, the shoes that perform poorly on crack climbs are often among the higher performers on pocketed terrain and vice versa.

Toeing in on tufa blobs in Kalymnos  Greece is similar to toeing in on steep pockets. Here you can see that the curved toe of the Women's Solution helps the climber keep herself pulled into the wall.
Toeing in on tufa blobs in Kalymnos, Greece is similar to toeing in on steep pockets. Here you can see that the curved toe of the Women's Solution helps the climber keep herself pulled into the wall.

The La Sportiva Solution Comp is our favorite shoe for pocket pulling. As you may recall, the Comp is also the shoe we preferred for steep climbing. This commonality shouldn't be too surprising, considering the similarities in ankle and toe movement across the two techniques. As a bonus, the Comp uses Sportiva's P3 Platform, which helps it retain its downturned toe throughout the life of the shoe.

The Solution Comps are great on the steeps  but also super comfortable on more vertical terrain - the best of both worlds!
The Solution Comps are great on the steeps, but also super comfortable on more vertical terrain - the best of both worlds!

Other downturned shoes, like the Mad Rock Lotus, also do well in this category, but the Solution's shape, combined with surprising comfort and sensitivity, earns it the top score. Other top contenders include the La Sportiva Kataki and the Scarpa Instinct VS.

From slabs to overhanging boulders  we put each pair through the wringer.
From slabs to overhanging boulders, we put each pair through the wringer.

Not surprisingly, the flatter soled shoes in this review, such as the Unparallel Up Lace do not perform at a high level when toeing into pockets.

The Vapor is a great all-around shoe - from slabs to steep pockets to vertical edging.
The Vapor is a great all-around shoe - from slabs to steep pockets to vertical edging.

Ease of Use


Ease of use is a minor category for climbing shoes, yet our evaluation revealed noticeable differences between test models. Shoes with Velcro straps are the easiest to get on and off, while lace-ups take a little longer. This feature may not matter to many women because laces afford a customizable fit throughout the upper portion and the toe box, depending on how far the laces go down the upper. For those with oddly proportioned feet, a lace-up like the Scarpa Vapor, La Sportiva Miura, or Scarpa Maestro Mid Eco will let you loosen the fit in key areas and cinch them down in others.


A potentially significant detail that we noticed is that Evolv's synthetic shoes eventually began to stink way more than what we'd consider "normal." Climbing shoes never smell particularly sweet, but we had a lot of other shoes to compare them with, and the leather models are slower to develop an off-putting odor. If you plan to wear your synthetic Evolv shoes regularly, you will likely need to frequently clean and dry them.

Conclusion


After many days of research, field tests, and analysis of female-specific climbing shoes, we've granted awards to the shoes that are the best in their class and often surpassed our expectations. However, our review comes with an obvious caveat: climbing shoe fit and performance is subjective; what fits one woman like it was custom made may cause extreme discomfort to another. We recommend you take our suggestions with a grain of salt and make your own choices by trying them on before making a purchase. And lastly, don't be afraid to check out all the unisex models. There are plenty of worthwhile shoes that don't come in women's specific versions.

Jane Jackson