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The Best Women's Climbing Shoes of 2019

Here in the Verdon Gorge  footwork is everything. We rocked the La Sportiva Skwama's almost exclusively on the technical  blue limestone walls of this incredible canyon.
By Jane Jackson ⋅ Senior Review Editor
Friday June 7, 2019
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Settling on a new pair of shoes can be a real challenge. We scoured the internet, researching over 50 pairs before purchasing the top 18 of 2019 you see in our review here. Whether you're a seasoned veteran looking to branch out from your go-to model or a new climber looking for a comfortable pair of shoes to take to Yosemite this weekend, we're here to help. From Yosemite to Bishop to Verdon, we put these shoes through our extensive testing process, edging, smearing, stemming, and toe hooking our way around the globe.


Top 18 Product Ratings

Displaying 1 - 5 of 18
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Awards Editors' Choice Award   Top Pick Award  
Price $175.00 at Backcountry
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$170.00 at REI
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$185.00 at REI
Compare at 3 sellers
$180.00 at REI
Compare at 3 sellers
$175.00 at Backcountry
Compare at 3 sellers
Overall Score Sort Icon
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82
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Pros Sensitive, great for edging, supportive, comfortable, versatileComfortable, high performance, sticky rubber, easy to put on, good in cracks, versatileComfortable, extremely sensitive, great for smearing and steep climbing, easy to get on and offGood for steep climbing, break in well, conforms to foot shape, comfortable, aggressive shapeGreat edging shoe, precise, versatile
Cons ExpensiveStretch out quickly, costly, lack supportExpensive, No-Edge technology could be an acquired tasteExpensive, lacks versatilitySpecific shape can cause discomfort for some, expensive
Bottom Line The Kataki wins our Editors' Choice Award for their combination of comfort, sensitivity, and edging prowess.The Skwama are impressive in many realms, combining comfort with a high performance fit.If you let them, they may revolutionize your footwork; they'll take some getting used to, but are top notch for steep climbing.The Solution gets our Top Pick for steep climbing and bouldering for their aggressive shape, precision, and comfortable design.A technical climbing powerhouse, perfect for crimpy limestone lines or long granite free climbs.
Rating Categories La Sportiva Kataki - Women's La Sportiva Skwama - Women's La Sportiva Futura - Women's Solution Miura VS
Comfort (25%)
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9
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8
Sensitivity (25%)
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9
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9
Edging (15%)
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7
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7
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9
Cracks (15%)
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6
Pockets (15%)
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9
Ease Of Use (5%)
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6
Specs La Sportiva Kataki... La Sportiva Skwama... La Sportiva Futura... Solution Miura VS
Style Lace Velcro Velcro Velcro Velcro
Weight (Per Pair, size 37) 1.08 lb 1.00 lb .91 lb 1.06 lb .94 lb
Width Options Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular
Fit Asymmetrical Asymmetrical High Asymmetry Asymmetrical High Asymmetry
Upper Suede leather microfiber Leather/Microfiber Leather/ Synthetic Leather/Lorica Leather
Lining Pacific Unlined Unlined HF (heel and toe box only) Dentex
Sole Rubber Vibram XS Grip2 Vibram XS Grip2 Vibram XSGrip2 Vibram XS Grip2 Vibram XSGrip2

Best Overall Women's Climbing Shoes


La Sportiva Kataki - Women's


Editors' Choice Award

$175.00
at Backcountry
See It

91
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Comfort - 25% 9
  • Sensitivity - 25% 10
  • Edging - 15% 10
  • Cracks - 15% 7
  • Pockets - 15% 9
  • Ease of Use - 5% 8
Style: Lace | Sole rubber: Vibram XS Grip2
Comfortable with an aggressive shape
Great for edging
Precise
Excel on vertical and overhanging routes
Quick break-in period
Supportive
Sensitive for heel hooking
Leather uppers stretch with use
Expensive

The La Sportiva Kataki is the best bet as far as a one-shoe quiver goes and quickly became our go-to for almost any kind of climbing. Before we got our feet into these shoes, we would have used one shoe for steep sport climbing and another for a techy stem corner. Thankfully, the Kataki can do both with comparable performance.

From technical granite face climbs in Tuolumne Meadows to overhanging limestone in Ten Sleep Canyon, the Kataki crushed it and can edge and smear like a stiff shoe while holding their downturned shape. With 4mm of Vibram XS Grip2 rubber on their soles, the Katakis are some of the stickiest shoes we tested. Given their all-around high marks, what's not to like?

Read review: La Sportiva Kataki

Best Bang for the Buck


Mad Rock Lotus


Best Buy Award

$119.00
at Backcountry
See It

72
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Comfort - 25% 8
  • Sensitivity - 25% 8
  • Edging - 15% 8
  • Cracks - 15% 4
  • Pockets - 15% 7
  • Ease of Use - 5% 7
Style: Velcro | Sole rubber: Science Friction 3.0 rubber
Great value
Performance shoe that still provides comfort
Very sticky rubber
Can be sized up or down based on use
Specific design for sport climbing and bouldering
Strange heel cup
Still more expensive than other models

The Mad Rock Lotus surprised us during testing. These shoes are relatively inexpensive, yet they deliver substantially more value than the price tag suggests. That said, they are not the cheapest shoes you can buy, and they were not designed as a first shoe for the novice climber. If you're looking for a shoe that is less expensive and more comfortable (i.e. a shoe for beginners), we recommend the Black Diamond Momentum or the La Sportiva Finale.

The Lotus is relatively inexpensive compared to some of its competitors. These shoes are great for folks who want a bit more aggressive shoe but don't want to spend a couple hundred bucks to get 'em. The Lotus does great on steep sport climbs, boulders, and in the gym. It holds its own against the competition in our metric comparisons, and costs significantly less than most aggressive, high-performance shoes.

Read review: Mad Rock Lotus

Top Pick for Steep Climbing and Bouldering


La Sportiva Solution - Women's


83
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Comfort - 25% 8
  • Sensitivity - 25% 9
  • Edging - 15% 7
  • Cracks - 15% 7
  • Pockets - 15% 10
  • Ease of Use - 5% 9
Style: Velco | Sole rubber: Vibram XS Grip2
Aggressive and precise
Designed for performance, but also provides comfort
Very sensitive
Good for heel hooks
High price tag
Specific

The La Sportiva Solution has been a longstanding favorite for bouldering and steeps, despite being comfortable enough to wear on vertical terrain. Once broken in we found them to be some of the more comfortable shoes in this review; especially if you're okay with a soft midsole. The Solutions fit our feet like sticky rubber gloves, providing incredible sensitivity.

These slipper-like shoes combine comfort and performance so well that only one other shoe in our test - the La Sportiva Futura - came close. We wore these shoes on everything from granite slabs to steep sport climbs to highball boulder problems. That said, we prefer them on sport climbs and boulder problems.

Read review: La Sportiva Solution - Women's

Top Pick for Versatility


La Sportiva Miura - Women's


76
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Comfort - 25% 7
  • Sensitivity - 25% 8
  • Edging - 15% 8
  • Cracks - 15% 9
  • Pockets - 15% 6
  • Ease of Use - 5% 8
Style: Lace | Sole rubber: Vibram XS Grip2
Precise
Great for edging
Exceptional on low angle and vertical terrain
Can be sized tight for performance or loose for all-day comfort
Expensive
Tough to break in
Not ideal for some foot shapes

The La Sportiva Miura is a longstanding favorite all over the world. From the Verdon Gorge to Yosemite Valley, chances are you will find folks sending in the Miura. These shoes allow for precise foot placement and excel at smearing and edging. Some people call the Miura their secret weapon for finger cracks; others prefer to rock them at the sport crag.

All this goes to show that the Miura is not only an incredibly versatile shoe but a high performing one across many climbing styles. As such, the Miura is our Top Pick for Versatility.

Read review: La Sportiva Miura — Women's

Top Pick for Multi-Pitch and Crack Climbing


Five Ten Anasazi LV - Women's


Top Pick Award

$129.95
(21% off)
at Backcountry
See It

77
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Comfort - 25% 10
  • Sensitivity - 25% 6
  • Edging - 15% 6
  • Cracks - 15% 10
  • Pockets - 15% 6
  • Ease of Use - 5% 7
Style: Velcro | Sole rubber: Stealth C4
Good for edging
Stiff underfoot, but malleable for cracks
Durable
High price tag
Simple design

For the desert crack climber or those who prefer long days in the mountains, look no further than the Five Ten Anasazi LV. These shoes are equipped with the legendary Five Ten Stealth rubber that will stick to the sandiest of sandstone walls. They also have a fairly stiff, yet still flexible sole that will stand up to splitter cracks but will also hold their own on small edges and face holds.

The Anasazi's overall flat sole makes them comfortable for crack climbing, as does their extra-padded tongue. All-day comfort is critical for a trad-specific shoe, and the Anasazi is perfect for anything from Indian Creek splitters to long, burly routes in Yosemite.

Read review: Five Ten Anasazi LV — Women's


Off the deck  the Anasazi was a bit soft  but performed good enough on the giant holds found in the Tablelands.
Off the deck, the Anasazi was a bit soft, but performed good enough on the giant holds found in the Tablelands.

Why You Should Trust Us


Our testers spend more time climbing than they probably ought to. Our lead tester Jane Jackson spends the spring, summer, and fall in Yosemite and the High Sierra. Previously a member of Yosemite Search and Rescue, Jane has done her fair share of big wall climbing in Valley. That said, in recent years, she prefers free climbing, which allows her to put the many aggressive and colorful shoes in this review to the test. This year, most of the shoe testing was done in Europe: starting with the techy limestone walls of Siurana and moving on to the incredible sandstone boulders found in the forests of Fontainebleau and finally ending up on the steep, imposing walls of Verdon Gorge in southern France. In these storied locales, we painstakingly broke in each shoe here reviewed and tested them out in a variety of climbing styles. While a jack of all trades may be a master of none, we are at least able to make well-rounded judgments on the performance of each of these shoes in a wide range of climbing styles.

Our lead tester in the Utah Hills near St. George  Utah.
Our lead tester in the Utah Hills near St. George, Utah.

What Makes Climbing Shoes Women's Specific?


What is the difference between a woman's climbing shoe and a man's? What are the advantages of a woman's shoe? Are women limited to just the "women's" models? The answer to that question is absolutely not! Women's specific shoes are relatively new to the market, and before that ladies had to go with men's or unisex models. There are still many shoes in production that only come in a unisex model, and they are fair game, as are the products with the women's specific label.

Related: The Best Rock Climbing Shoes of 2019

Aside from the superficial color schemes, the defining difference between men's and women's shoes is that they are usually constructed around different lasts (the form matching the anatomy of the foot off which a shoe is patterned). The female last will be similar to that of the male version, but usually a little narrower, especially in the heel. Other differences may include a higher arch, a thinner and longer toe box, and a lower instep. These changes in last dimensions can enhance the fit for many women, particularly those who have very narrow or low-volume feet.

Booting up for another pitch in Southern France.
Booting up for another pitch in Southern France.

Analysis and Test Results


In each iteration of our women's climbing shoe review, we see more choices available; in fact, the past couple of years have been marked by an increase in the number of women's specific shoes produced by manufacturers. If you have a narrow and/ or low-volume foot, this is great news! There are tons of choices out there from all the familiar brands that are catering to women specifically. That being said, unisex climbing shoes are designed to be just that — unisex. So don't feel like you are limited solely to women's specific shoes.

An array of women's climbing shoes - most brands make women's specific models  but don't be afraid to try out a unisex version! Our lead tester has wide feet and often prefers the men's version of many popular shoes on the market.
An array of women's climbing shoes - most brands make women's specific models, but don't be afraid to try out a unisex version! Our lead tester has wide feet and often prefers the men's version of many popular shoes on the market.

Despite the regular additions to the women's specific shoe market, there are still gaps in coverage, though progress is being made. However, this review is the first time we able to exclusively compare women's specific models since there are finally enough options available to conduct an extensive, side-by-side analysis.

Heel hooking in the Editors' Choice Award Winner  the Sportiva Kataki.
Heel hooking in the Editors' Choice Award Winner, the Sportiva Kataki.

It should be noted that we have shoes designed for a variety of different climbing disciplines and they've been combined into this one review. This predicament creates problems when trying to perform a comparative analysis. To address this issue we have highlighted the differences between the various models and also highlighted which models are most comparable, so if you are looking for a specific style, you can quickly narrow your search.

Bouldering is a great testing ground for our review since it's easy to compare performance side-by-side.
Bouldering is a great testing ground for our review since it's easy to compare performance side-by-side.

Value


The price of climbing shoes seems to be increasing each year. Preparing to throw down as much as a few Benjamins for a new pair of shoes of which the performance and lasting fit are yet unknown can make the selection process a bit overwhelming. At these prices, we want to make sure that we are getting the right tool for the job! The most expensive shoes in this review are the Scarpa Furia. The newest version of the La Sportiva Solution is a close second. This shoe is designed for a particular use (steep face climbs) and typically is purchased by experienced climbers who want to up their technical climbing game. Conversely, our Editors' Choice award winner, the La Sportiva Kataki is less expensive than the Solution and quite a bit more versatile.

For more reasonably priced shoes, look at brands like Mad Rock and Butora who make high-quality products at lower prices. We love the Mad Rock Lotus as a cheaper, but similar in style, counterpart to the Solution. For a beginner, the Black Diamond Momentum is relatively inexpensive - it's one of the most affordable shoes in the review - and it works well as both a gym and introductory shoe.

There is a wide price range within the climbing shoe world. So, it may take some time to figure out which model has the features you need with a price tag you can manage. However, buying a new shoe isn't your only option when the toes are wearing thin on your current shoes. You can always send your old standbys to a re-sole company to extend their life and save some cash in the process or purchase from a used gear shop. This option is a good thing to remember when the anxiety of spending a lot of money on a new pair of kicks washes over you!


Comfort


Evaluating the comfort of a climbing shoe is difficult, and many folks have different ideas of what makes a comfortable shoe. Climbing shoes, in general, are going to be less comfortable than shoes worn around town. Some people size their shoes small to get the tightest fit possible for maximum performance.


Others will want a shoe whose fit feels more that of a street shoe for all-day comfort. We based our evaluation on how closely the shoes hugged our feet, how crammed our toes felt, and on the extra features that make a shoe bearable to wear.

Delicate top outs make for great opportunities to test these shoes' ability to perform. The Libras surprised us as a great all-around shoe.
Delicate top outs make for great opportunities to test these shoes' ability to perform. The Libras surprised us as a great all-around shoe.

Naturally, all the shoes with a flatter shape, like the Five Ten Anasazi LV are more comfortable to wear for extended periods than models with an aggressive downturn. This increased comfort is due to the more natural position in which these shoes hold your feet. Similarly, the La Sportiva Finale and to some extent, the Black Diamond Momentum, can be worn all day with ease because they do not hold your foot captive in an unnatural position.

Here are a few of the most aggressively downturned shoes we reviewed - the La Sportiva Futura on the left and the Scarpa Furia on the right. Both pairs are right at home in the steep limestone cave where this photo was taken.
Here are a few of the most aggressively downturned shoes we reviewed - the La Sportiva Futura on the left and the Scarpa Furia on the right. Both pairs are right at home in the steep limestone cave where this photo was taken.

Downturned shoes push your toes into the front of the shoe to amplify their power and allow the climber to toe-in on small holds more aggressively.

The Kataki is a shoe that provides all-day comfort  while still having an aggressive shape worthy of your mega-project.
The Kataki is a shoe that provides all-day comfort, while still having an aggressive shape worthy of your mega-project.

Surprisingly a few of the most aggressively downturned shoes that we tested, such as the La Sportiva Solution - Women's, also turned out to be some of the most comfortable. These shoes don't crush your toes, and they have a sock-like tongue that cradles the foot. Our Best Buy Award Winner, the Mad Rock Lotus, also fit snuggly and comfortably.

The padding on the inside of the heel on the women's Miura. This padding helps to tighten up the fit for narrower heels and also adds a lot of comfort  making these shoes even more pleasant to wear.
The padding on the inside of the heel on the women's Miura. This padding helps to tighten up the fit for narrower heels and also adds a lot of comfort, making these shoes even more pleasant to wear.

The La Sportiva Miura VS has bonus comfort features like a padded heel and a padded tongue that tightens the fit for women and makes it very pleasant to wear. Both the velcro model and the lace-up model have these features, but these shoes were challenging to break in; causing pain initially.

Friction climbing is the ultimate test of a shoe's sensitivity  and of a brand's rubber! Shown here is the Vapor by Scarpa  which did not particularly excel in the comfort metric.
Friction climbing is the ultimate test of a shoe's sensitivity, and of a brand's rubber! Shown here is the Vapor by Scarpa, which did not particularly excel in the comfort metric.

We also noticed that some shoes hug the whole foot, leaving no air pockets or dead space inside. The Evolv Kira left pockets of space below the arch of the foot, and this resulted in a less comfortable fit overall.

Difficult to get on at first  the Lotus breaks in to be very comfortable and fits like a rubber glove  much like the La Sportiva Solution.
Difficult to get on at first, the Lotus breaks in to be very comfortable and fits like a rubber glove, much like the La Sportiva Solution.

The La Sportiva Kataki, Mad Rock Lotus, and La Sportiva Solution all hug the foot entirely with no dead space, and we preferred this close fit. The La Sportiva Skwama also hugs the foot. Its soft sole and sensitivity made it one of our favorites for multi-pitch sport climbing where both comfort and performance matter.

The Anasazi LV is an all-around shoe with technical performance. These shoes really shine at smearing and toeing in on tiny edges that require the most sensitivity and are also incredibly comfortable.
The Anasazi LV is an all-around shoe with technical performance. These shoes really shine at smearing and toeing in on tiny edges that require the most sensitivity and are also incredibly comfortable.

Sensitivity


One of the reasons that climbers fork over one to two hundred of their hard-earned dollars for climbing shoes versus sneakers or boots is that the prior gives a climber's toes the ability to feel the rock and use minuscule features on the wall.


We find that the more sensitive and precise the better because then we can trust our feet as we make delicate moves.

The Kataki  though downturned  makes for a very sensitive  solid slab climbing shoe.
The Kataki, though downturned, makes for a very sensitive, solid slab climbing shoe.

The most sensitive shoes are the La Sportiva Kataki - Women's, Solution, Miura, and the Five Ten Anasazi LV. We especially appreciated the sensitivity of the Kataki and the Butora Acro, as they gave us the confidence to stand on the smallest holds out there and still trust our feet.

Fresh out of the box  the Miura have a lot of rubber on the soles  which can be a bit unnerving  but  over time these soles wear in to be technical wizards on the rock!
Fresh out of the box, the Miura have a lot of rubber on the soles, which can be a bit unnerving, but, over time these soles wear in to be technical wizards on the rock!

The least sensitive pair of shoes we tested was the Butora Libra, which were so stiff in the toe box and midsole that we could hardly feel what we were standing on. As such, we had a hard time using small features when wearing this model. The Five Ten Asym was an equally clunky shoe that lacked sensitivity on small holds.

The Butora Acro excelled in the sensitivity metric  earning one of the highest scores.
The Butora Acro excelled in the sensitivity metric, earning one of the highest scores.

Another surprise in the sensitivity department was the Mad Rock Lotus, which we had initially written off because of their overall design and their unusually bulky heel. But, after breaking them in a bit, the Lotus quickly became one of our favorite shoes, with the ability to toe into tiny holds and stick to polished granite with ease. We got in the habit of throwing these in our packs along with the La Sportiva Kataki whenever we went out climbing.

Testing out the edging ability of the Kataki on a clear day in the Buttermilks.
Testing out the edging ability of the Kataki on a clear day in the Buttermilks.

Edging


Edging and sensitivity are similar but apply to different styles of footholds.


While sensitivity allows you to smear on and toe into tiny footholds with confidence, edging, as we define it, is the ability to place a toe on a small edge and have it feel like a much larger feature. This aspect of climbing shoe performance requires a bit stiffer sole that is supportive of the whole foot when pressing down on thin edges.

Assessing the edging ability of the Libra on the top out of yet another 5-star granite boulder problem.
Assessing the edging ability of the Libra on the top out of yet another 5-star granite boulder problem.

When it comes to edging, the La Sportiva Miura - Women's is top notch. Surprisingly though, the La Sportiva Kataki was neck in neck in the edging department with this longstanding technical favorite. The Kataki, with a stiff midsole, a slight downturn, and a sensitive toe, can seemingly stand on anything. The Miura uses a proprietary technology that Sportiva refers to as the "Powerhinge."

Though they are not downturned or aggressively shaped  the Finale make a fairly good shoe for vertical to slightly overhung terrain.
Though they are not downturned or aggressively shaped, the Finale make a fairly good shoe for vertical to slightly overhung terrain.

The "Powerhinge" connects the rubber rand, which wraps around the whole foot, to a hole cut in the sole on the bottom of the shoe. When the toe is weighted on an edge, the weight of the climber stretches forward from the heel towards the front of the shoe. This hole in the sole only allows the shoe to stretch in the back half, leaving the toe where you placed it on the surface of the rock. The result is that you can stand on edges with your full weight, and still feel secure. The La Sportiva Miura VS also impressed as an edging machine. The velcro model is slightly more downturned than its lace-up counterpart, making it great for steep, technical terrain.

Testing out the Mad Rock Lotus' edging in comparison to the Scarpa Vapor and the La Sportiva Kataki.
Testing out the Mad Rock Lotus' edging in comparison to the Scarpa Vapor and the La Sportiva Kataki.

Additionally, the La Sportiva Miura VS, Black Diamond Momentum, and the Scarpa Vapor perform well in the edging category.

Toeing into a small edge on the vertical walls of the Owen's River Gorge. These shoes work well as edging shoes due to their stiffness.
Toeing into a small edge on the vertical walls of the Owen's River Gorge. These shoes work well as edging shoes due to their stiffness.

The shoes with the worst edging capability were the Evolv Kira and Five Ten Anasazi LV - Women's, as our feet always wanted to roll off edges when wearing these kicks.

The Lotus proving that even an aggressive slipper can perform on a slabby highball.
The Lotus proving that even an aggressive slipper can perform on a slabby highball.

Crack Climbing


As the name implies, the crack climbing metric evaluates how well a shoe will perform when jammed into cracks. Sliding your foot into a crack and twisting to the side so that you can stand up on it is one of the more unique ways to use your feet while climbing. The features that make for a good crack shoe are a flatter shape that can fit inside a crack without painfully impacting the knuckle of the toes as would be the case in a shoe sporting a turned down toe. Additionally, these shoes have a stiff platform that supports the whole foot, and that prevents lateral taco-ing with enough rubber along the side of the shoe to find purchase on the interior and edges of the crack. Ideally, a crack shoe will be decent at edging and smearing as well because you will likely need to do all of these things on a traditional climb; even if it's just a single pitch.

Typically, we like to use the La Sportiva TC Pro for crack climbing, though this is not a women's specific shoe. The TC is stiff yet sensitive and can be sized up for a comfortable all-day shoe, or sized tight for more technical climbing. When it comes to long days of crack climbing in Yosemite Valley, for example, we typically go with TC Pros as opposed to one of the women's specific models found in this review.


However, the shoes in this review that work the best in cracks are the Five Ten Anasazi LV, the Butora Libra, and the La Sportiva Miura.

Even in painful foot jams  the Anasazi provides comfort with is leather upper and well-padded tongue.
Even in painful foot jams, the Anasazi provides comfort with is leather upper and well-padded tongue.

Although the Miura has some downturn in the toe, there is not enough of a curve to be painful when jammed, and this bit of aggression helps work the toe into difficult, finger-sized cracks. We found the Anasazi to be the best for long routes because while the flat shape fits easily into cracks, they also edge and smear well on all the features peppered in and around the crack systems.

The toe box of a shoe tells a lot about how well the shoe may perform as an edging tool. The Mad Rock Lotus has a good amount of downturn  but also enough of a flat toe to make it decent at edging as well as a heavy hitter in the steeps. The other model pictured is the Butora Acro.
The toe box of a shoe tells a lot about how well the shoe may perform as an edging tool. The Mad Rock Lotus has a good amount of downturn, but also enough of a flat toe to make it decent at edging as well as a heavy hitter in the steeps. The other model pictured is the Butora Acro.

With lace-up shoes, it is essential to recognize how much of the lacing system will wear when climbing cracks. Shoes like the La Sportiva Miura and the Butora Libra are good crack climbing shoes but are also lace up, so continuous wear on splitter cracks may wear out the laces. For super continuous cracks at a place like Indian Creek, Utah, the unisex Five Ten Moccasym reigns king. It is a slipper with very sticky rubber and a flat shape. When sized large it can be comfortable in cracks of any width, and the lack of laces keeps the shoe from shredding. A women's specific version of this shoe is the Five Ten Anasazi LV, which also performs well on continuous cracks.

Some find the toe box to be a bit too asymmetrical on the Miura  but over time these shoes break in to be great for finger cracks and technical face climbs.
Some find the toe box to be a bit too asymmetrical on the Miura, but over time these shoes break in to be great for finger cracks and technical face climbs.

Shoes with a significant amount of downturn are especially uncomfortable when foot jamming. So, models like the La Sportiva Solution and Butora Acro are best reserved for steep face moves. Surprisingly, the La Sportiva Skwama does okay in cracks, although it is designed as more of a steep, sporty shoe. The soft midsole and rubber-coated toe make the Skwama a good option for pushing into thin, technical cracks.


Pockets


The pockets category is an evaluation of how well a given shoe can sink into the cavities of a rock surface. Often a shoe with a pointed toe will excel in this particular medium. Moreover, a shoe with a downturn in the toe will offer the added advantage of being able to hook pockets on steep to overhanging terrain - as opposed to simply pressing down on them - allowing you to pull your hips in close to the wall for efficient body positioning.


Bear in mind that the pockets evaluation is in many ways the polar opposite of the crack climbing assessment. As such, the shoes that perform poorly on crack climbs are often among the higher performers on pocketed terrain and vice versa.

Toeing in on tufa blobs in Kalymnos  Greece is similar to toeing in on steep pockets. Here you can see that the curved toe of the Women's Solution helps the climber keep herself pulled into the wall.
Toeing in on tufa blobs in Kalymnos, Greece is similar to toeing in on steep pockets. Here you can see that the curved toe of the Women's Solution helps the climber keep herself pulled into the wall.

The La Sportiva Solution is our favorite shoe for pocket pulling. As you may recall, the Solution was also the shoe we preferred for steep climbing. This commonality shouldn't be too surprising though considering the similarities in ankle and toe movement across the two techniques. As a bonus, this shoe uses Sportiva's P3 Platform which helps this Top Pick award winner retain its downturned toe throughout the life of the shoe.

The Solutions are the Top Pick for Steep Climbing and pockets with their P3 Platform and aggressive downturn. They are great on the steeps and comfortable!
The Solutions are the Top Pick for Steep Climbing and pockets with their P3 Platform and aggressive downturn. They are great on the steeps and comfortable!

Other downturned shoes such as the Mad Rock Lotus, our Best Buy Award Winner, also do well in this category, but the Solution's shape, combined with surprising comfort and sensitivity, earns it the top score. Other top contenders include the La Sportiva Kataki and the Scarpa Vapor.

From slabs to overhanging boulders  we put each pair through the wringer.
From slabs to overhanging boulders, we put each pair through the wringer.

Not surprisingly, the flatter soled shoes in this review, such as the La Sportiva Finale, Evolv Kira, and Black Diamond Momentum do not perform at a high level when toeing into pockets.

The Vapor is a great all-around shoe - from slabs to steep pockets to vertical edging.
The Vapor is a great all-around shoe - from slabs to steep pockets to vertical edging.

Ease of Use


Ease of use is a minor category for climbing shoes, yet our evaluation revealed noticeable differences between test models. Shoes with Velcro straps are the easiest to get on and off, while lace-ups take a little longer. This feature may not matter to many women because laces afford a customizable fit throughout the upper portion and - depending on far the laces go down the upper - the toe box. For those with oddly proportioned feet, a lace-up like the Scarpa Vapor, La Sportiva Miura, La Sportiva Finale, Butora Libra, or La Sportiva Kataki will let you loosen the fit in key areas and cinch them down in others.


A potentially significant detail that we - and those near us - noticed is that Evolv's synthetic shoes eventually began to stink way more than what we'd consider "normal." Climbing shoes never smell particularly sweet, but we had a lot of other shoes to compare them with, and the leather models are slower to develop an off-putting odor. If you plan to wear your synthetic Evolv shoes regularly, you will likely need to regularly clean and dry them.

Conclusion


After many days of research, field tests, and analysis of female-specific climbing shoes we've granted awards to the shoes that are the best in their class and often surpassed our expectations. However, our review comes with an obvious caveat: climbing shoe fit and performance is subjective; what fits one woman like it was custom made may cause extreme discomfort to another. We recommend you take our suggestions with a grain of salt and make your own choices by trying them on before making a purchase. Don't be afraid to check out all the unisex models. There are plenty of worthwhile shoes that don't come in women's specific versions.


Jane Jackson