Figuring out which climbing shoes will fit you just right is a complicated process of elimination. These models all have subtleties that will change over time and small nuances that can be the difference between sending and failing. The bottom line is, the fit of a climbing shoe is a very personal thing that can take years to get right. Our intention with this article is to help you along the way and hopefully expedite this process. If you already know the type of shoe, you are looking for take a look at our Women's Climbing Shoe Review to see which were our favorites for specific uses.
Style of Climbing Shoes
There is a wide range of available shoes for climbing, and many climbers feel they need a quiver for different styles of climbing rather than just one shoe for everything. The women's market is bigger than ever, but don't forget to check out the unisex models included in our men's review. Often a unisex model will fit the best or be the perfect tool for the job. The main advantage of women's specific models is that they are narrower and lower volume to accommodate smaller feet better. Many women will find the best fit in a women's specific model. We have divided the products in this review into four categories based on the primary use to help you decipher which models will best suit your needs.
Aggressive Shoes for Sport Climbing and Bouldering
- La Sportiva Solution
- Mad Rock Lotus
- Butora Acro
Shoes for Trad Climbing and Cracks
- La Sportiva Miura
- Five Ten Anasazi LV
All-Around Shoes for Versatile Climbing Use
- La Sportiva Muira
- La Sportiva Kataki
- Five Ten Anazasi LV
- Scarpa Vapor
Shoes for Beginners
- Evolv Kira
- La Sportiva Finale
- Black Diamond Momentum
Related to the styles of climbing listed above, the degree of the downturn makes a shoe more specialized for different styles of climbing. Keep in mind that the more downturned a shoe, the more volume is left for your toes to bunch in the front. If you buy a downturned shoe big, you are likely to have a lot of extra space on your toes, and often this bunches up uncomfortably while you are climbing. The more aggressive the shoe, the better it is to go for a snug fit — not painful but snug.
There are two schools of thought with climbing shoes: that your shoes should be extremely tight to the point of pain, or that your shoes should be bigger and more comfortable. Tight shoes are great for sport climbing and bouldering where sensitivity on edges, tiny foot chips, and smears can be the difference between sending and whipping. Also, on sport climbs, you tend only to wear your shoes for the length of one pitch so the tightness and curled toes can be bearable. However, don't size your shoes so small that the discomfort is excruciating and makes you not want to use your feet.
On multi-pitch climbs, shoes are worn for extended periods of time, and tight-fitting shoes can make you climb worse because you are less likely to want to put any pressure on your aching toes. So for long routes, we recommend bigger shoes. Also, for crack climbing, when you jam your feet into the crack and tweak them around, shoes a bit bigger are an asset.
When shopping for shoes, decide beforehand what you plan on climbing most with these shoes and size them accordingly. In general, we find that just going a little bigger than tight can make it 50 percent more comfortable, and comfortable feet usually means better performance.
Now that you have decided how tight your shoes should be, factor in how much the shoes will stretch after you buy them. Most shoes don't keep the same fit that they have in the store. Leather shoes stretch a decent amount, so prepare yourself when buying them. The exception: leather shoes that are lined. For example, Mythos are unlined leather shoes and stretch quite a bit after a lot of use, becoming sloppy over time. The Miura are lined leather shoes and do not stretch much at all, but they do mold to your feet. Synthetic shoes, like the Five Ten Anasazi and most Evolv shoes, do not stretch much so you can buy those pretty true to size. Pay attention to what kind of shoes you are buying (and the design and materials), so you know what to expect once they break in.
Brand and Sizing
Don't expect to wear the same size shoe across the board, but learn how each brand fits your uniquely shaped foot. As a rule of thumb, Five Ten and Evolv shoes fit much smaller than European brands such as La Sportiva. Five Ten's goal is for you to buy your street shoe size without downsizing and achieve the proper fit. La Sportiva has extremely consistent sizing, and our testers can buy the same size in any model of shoe and find the right fit, but that does not translate to other brands. The same size in Scarpa fit much smaller.
Laces, Velcro or Slipper
There are three main types of fastening systems: Velcro strap(s), lace-up, and slipper (usually with elastic). Lace-up shoes give the most precise, snug, and secure fit but take a while to get on and off. Velcro shoes go on and off quickly, and many newer Velcro shoes tighten almost as precisely as lace-ups. Slippers are the most comfortable and sensitive shoes. They are usually unlined, which means they stretch and become even more comfortable but less precise over time.
Rubber, more than any other factor in climbing shoes, is all about personal preference. People have debated forever what is the best. There is one general rule: when looking at the stickiness of a shoe, it can be measured in a continuum, where one end measures stickiness and the other measures durability. The closer you get to sticky, the less durable the rubber and vice-versa. Rubber that is soft and sticky is likely to wear out fast.
A harder rubber is more durable and will hold an edge longer, but also will not stick to the rock as well if you lightly paste your foot on a hold. So there is a trade-off. In general, we like our high-performance shoes as soft and sticky as possible. For entry level shoes or all-day trad shoes, a harder and more durable rubber is usually preferred.