The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear

The Best Climbing Camming Device Review

Thursday December 19, 2019
  • Share this article:
Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. Learn more

Are you looking to purchase some new camming devices and want to be confident that your protection is the best you can buy? We can help! Whether you are new to traditional climbing and looking to start building your rack, or are an experienced vet shopping for replacements, our expert testers have solid advice for you. We've researched every piece of active protection available today, selecting the 10 best and most popular camming devices for inclusion in this review. We tested these cams on alpine granite, sandstone splitters, and basalt columns, so we understand how each performs on all different types of rock. Whether you prefer climbing free or with aid, want the lightest device or simply the most economical, prefer techy thin protection or love tackling the widest of offwidths, the best devices are highlighted below.


Top 10 Product Ratings

Displaying 1 - 5 of 10
≪ Previous | Compare | Next ≫
 
Awards Editors' Choice Award Top Pick Award Best Buy Award Top Pick Award  
Price $64.95 at Amazon
Compare at 3 sellers
$74.95 at Amazon
Compare at 2 sellers
$48.71 at Amazon
Compare at 3 sellers
$82.95 at Backcountry
Compare at 2 sellers
$74.95 at Amazon
Overall Score Sort Icon
100
0
81
100
0
77
100
0
77
100
0
76
100
0
75
Star Rating
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Pros Super light, durable, easy to place while free climbing, great rangeFantastic design, smallest cam in the world, great strength, extendable sling, flexible stemDurable, wide rangeFlexible stem, great range, narrow headsLight, flexible stem, awesome in pin scars
Cons Expensive, need for potential early retirementNot available in offset sizes, smaller individual cam range, action on smaller cams not as smooth as larger camsHeavy compared to Ultralight C4s and MetoliusWide stem may feel bulky to someNot very durable
Bottom Line These are our favorite cams for all around use.The highest quality small, Alien-like cam design that you can buyC4s are the perfect workhorse cam for any rack, keeping you off the ground for yearsThese unique cams are awesome and fit in placements where no other cam will work.These are our favorite finger sized cams.
Rating Categories Black Diamond C4 Ultralight DMM Dragonfly Black Diamond Camalot Totem Cam Alien Revolution
Free Climbing (20%)
10
0
10
10
0
8
10
0
9
10
0
7
10
0
7
Weight (15%)
10
0
9
10
0
7
10
0
6
10
0
6
10
0
8
Range (15%)
10
0
9
10
0
5
10
0
10
10
0
8
10
0
6
Horizontal Cracks (15%)
10
0
6
10
0
9
10
0
6
10
0
7
10
0
9
Tight Placements (15%)
10
0
6
10
0
9
10
0
6
10
0
9
10
0
9
Durability (10%)
10
0
9
10
0
8
10
0
10
10
0
8
10
0
4
Walking (5%)
10
0
7
10
0
8
10
0
7
10
0
8
10
0
8
Aid Climbing (5%)
10
0
7
10
0
8
10
0
6
10
0
10
10
0
9
Specs Black Diamond C4... DMM Dragonfly Black Diamond... Totem Cam Alien Revolution
Weight (1 inch size piece) 2.6 oz 2.6 oz. 3.28 oz 3.35 oz 2.15 oz
Range (inches) .61-4.51" .31-1.11" .54-7.68" .46-2.52" .33-1.3"
Sling Length (inches) 3.75" 5-10" 3.75" 4.6" 5.75"
Stem width above trigger
Single or Double Axle? Double Single Double Single Single
Extendable Sling? No Yes No No Yes
Sling material Dyneema Dynatec Nylon Dyneema Dyneema
High Clip in for Aid? Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Cam Stops? Yes Yes Yes No No

Best Overall Medium and Large Camming Devices


Black Diamond C4 Ultralight


Black Diamond C4 Ultralight
Editors' Choice Award

$64.95
(35% off)
at Amazon
See It

81
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Free Climbing - 20% 10
  • Weight - 15% 9
  • Range - 15% 9
  • Horizontal Cracks - 15% 6
  • Tight Placements - 15% 6
  • Durability - 10% 9
  • Walking - 5% 7
  • Aid Climbing - 5% 7
Range: .61-4.51 inches | Sling length: 3.75 inches
The lightest hand sized cams
Ergonomic thumb loop
Excellent range
Expensive
Dyneema stem may not last as long as cable

The Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights are everything we love about the original Camalot C4s with a weight reduction of 25%. We were initially skeptical that these lightweight cams wouldn't hold up as well as their predecessors, but after many placements, several falls, and loading them in all sorts of awkward positions, they're still in great shape and keeping us off the ground. Whether you're racking tons of cams for a long splitter or climbing a big wall, these lightweight cams will give you a big advantage. Our testers oohed and aahhed over how light these cams felt on their harnesses and were amazed that the #4 Ultralight weighs the same as a #2 C4!

As with most things, these amazingly light cams come with a few downsides. The range stops at a #4, so unfortunately you can't buy them in the super large and heavier sizes where significant weight savings would be really nice. They also cost a good chunk of change more than regular C4 Camalots, and Black Diamond recommends that you retire them after only five years because of the potential of the Dyneema used in lieu of a metal cable to degrade faster. These cams are absolutely ideal for anyone who wants the lightest rack possible, whether they intend to tackle big walls, alpine missions, or even for simple cragging.

Read review: Black Diamond C4 Ultralight

Best Overall Small Camming Devices


DMM Dragonfly


DMM Dragonflys
Top Pick Award

$74.95
(6% off)
at Amazon
See It

77
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Free Climbing - 20% 8
  • Weight - 15% 7
  • Range - 15% 5
  • Horizontal Cracks - 15% 9
  • Tight Placements - 15% 9
  • Durability - 10% 8
  • Walking - 5% 8
  • Aid Climbing - 5% 8
Range: .31-1.11 inches | Sling length: 5–10 inches
Tried and true design with top quality construction
Flexible stem with extendable sling
#1 green is the smallest cam in the world capable of holding falls
Pricey
Less range per individual camming unit
Three smallest units don't have the same smooth trigger pull as three large units

These small cams come in six sizes ranging from the smallest cam in the world capable of holding falls (certified to 6kN) up to a standard .5 purple size, and make an excellent complement to any regular medium and large-sized rack. We think they are the best small camming devices that you can buy because they are made to the classic "Alien" design, which includes cam springs hidden inside the lobes themselves combined with a sleeved trigger pull, while being constructed to the ultra high standards of quality that DMM is known for. Their narrow heads and flexible stems make them easy to fit in tight or awkwardly shaped placements, and the thumb loop combined with an extendable sling adds versatility.

Unfortunately, no small camming devices available today are perfect, and the Dragonflies come with a few flaws. Their 13.75 degree camming angle ensures maximal outward push from each lobe — great for increasing holding power — but also means that the range of each unit is smaller than FIXE Aliens or BD X4s. In practice, this means you must be more accurate in which cam you grab off your harness, allowing less forgiveness if the one you choose is slightly too large or small. The flexible stem is ideal for tricky placements or horizontals, but also means that it can sometimes be harder to remove the cam if it's stuck. Finally, we have noticed the trigger pull on the smaller units is not as buttery smooth as on the larger ones, although this doesn't affect performance. If you are in the market for small cams, and especially if your local area often has very thin fissures, the DMM Dragonfly cams are the first units we would check out.

Read review: DMM Dragonfly

Best Buy for Building Your Rack


Black Diamond Camalot


Black Diamond Camalot C4
Best Buy Award

$48.71
(25% off)
at Amazon
See It

77
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Free Climbing - 20% 9
  • Weight - 15% 6
  • Range - 15% 10
  • Horizontal Cracks - 15% 6
  • Tight Placements - 15% 6
  • Durability - 10% 10
  • Walking - 5% 7
  • Aid Climbing - 5% 6
Range: .54-7.68 inches | Sling length: 3.75 inches
The gold standard for over 20 years
Incredibly reliable and durable
The largest range of camming units available
By far the most widely used units, making it easy to meld racks for gear heavy objectives
Not the lightest
Rigid stem not ideal for tight placements and horizontals

Are you new to trad climbing and looking to start building up your rack? Then we highly recommend you begin stocking it with Black Diamond Camalot C4s. Simply put, these cams not only set the standard for quality and durability, but are by far the most popular camming units in the world of climbing today. They have the widest range of sizes, from the finger-sized .3 all the way up to the Monster Offwidth protecting #6, and due to their double-axle design also allow for great range of placement for each individual unit. While they aren't the lightest, the newest versions of these cams are now 10% lighter than in previous years, not insignificant weight savings, while you can save a decent amount of money if you opt for these cams over the lighter but more expensive Black Diamond Ultralight Camalots.

Since these cams are so popular, building your rack around them will accustom you to the color schemes used for different sized units, making it easy to climb using a friend's rack, or to combine the two seamlessly for Indian Creek mega-splitters or Yosemite big walls. One of their few downsides is the rigid stem — necessary for ideal place-ability in the larger sizes — doesn't easily bend over edges or protrusions, limiting their use for tight placements. This is especially true in the smallest sizes, and most people will opt for Black Diamond X4s, Metolius Ultralight Master Cams, DMM Dragonflies, or Aliens once they are shopping for anything below the .5 purple size. For beginning climbers and old trads alike, Camalots are the way to go.

Read review: Black Diamond Camalot

Best Bang for the Buck — Small Cams


Metolius Ultralight Master Cam


Best Buy Award

$59.70
at Amazon
See It

74
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Free Climbing - 20% 6
  • Weight - 15% 10
  • Range - 15% 7
  • Horizontal Cracks - 15% 7
  • Tight Placements - 15% 8
  • Durability - 10% 8
  • Walking - 5% 8
  • Aid Climbing - 5% 4
Range: .34-2.81" inches | Sling length: 3.75 inches
Flexible stem
Narrow Head
Super lightweight
The most affordable camming units
No thumb loop
If the kevlar trigger cables become damaged, only Metolius can replace them
Less range per unit
Color schemes are unique and don't line up with BD units

Durable, reliable and made in the good ol' US of A, the Metolius Ultralight Master Cam takes home our Best Buy Award for finger-sized camming units. They have a more flexible stem than the Camalots and are available in larger sizes than the Aliens. Lightweight and compact, these cams are great for alpine climbing or whenever you need to shave ounces off your kit. While they wouldn't be the first cams we would recommend in larger sizes, for finger sizes and smaller, purchasing a set of these will save you a significant amount of cash over almost every other option.

The most noticeable disadvantage to these cams is the lack of thumb loop, which helps to cut out the extra grams, but also makes them harder to quickly grab, and also limits the height you can clip into if aid climbing. They also use their own unique color scheme progression, which can take some practice to memorize if you are used to the schemes used by BD, DMM, or Aliens. While they have to be sent back to Metolius for repair if a trigger wire is damaged, this isn't such a big deal because Metolius is super easy to work with and very accommodating. Whether you want lightweight, or simply the most affordable, the Ultralight Master Cams cannot be beat.

Read review: Metolius Ultralight Master Cam

Best for Aid Climbing


Totem Cam


Top Pick Award

$82.95
at Backcountry
See It

76
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Free Climbing - 20% 7
  • Weight - 15% 6
  • Range - 15% 8
  • Horizontal Cracks - 15% 7
  • Tight Placements - 15% 9
  • Durability - 10% 8
  • Walking - 5% 8
  • Aid Climbing - 5% 10
Range: .46-2.52 inches | Sling length: 4.6 inches
Each side of the cam can be loaded independently
Work in parallel and offset placements
Available in finger and hand sizes
Expensive
Can be more difficult to remove when stuck
Bulky

Totem Cams are total game changers when it comes to clean aid climbing. Thanks to an ingenious and unique design, you can load just one side of the camming unit, engaging only two lobes at a time. This creates a much stronger, more reliable bodyweight placement in flares or holes too shallow to get all four lobes in. Since each side of the cam is independently loaded, each size can essentially function like an offset. They have narrower heads than the BD Camalots, and a more flexible stem, making them super effective at holding in horizontal and shallow placements. While they get an award for their aid climbing prowess, we wouldn't hesitate to bring them free climbing because they can protect pockets and holes better than any other cam.

The downsides to these really unique cams are that they are quite expensive, and a fair bit bulkier than most other camming devices. They can also be difficult to extract at times, and as somewhat of a cult phenom product, haven't always been easy to purchase either. That said, if you are a big wall climber, or want to be one, then your rack is not complete without a set or two of Totem Cams.

Read review: Totem Cam


Mike Donaldson linking corner pitches and simul-climbing in the upper classic corners of the Becky-Chouinard on South Howser Tower  Bugaboos. Mike prefers a rack made up of Ultralight Camalots  Metolius Ultralight Mastercams  and Totem Cams for fast and large alpine missions like this one.
Mike Donaldson linking corner pitches and simul-climbing in the upper classic corners of the Becky-Chouinard on South Howser Tower, Bugaboos. Mike prefers a rack made up of Ultralight Camalots, Metolius Ultralight Mastercams, and Totem Cams for fast and large alpine missions like this one.

Why You Should Trust Us


This review is a collaboration between expert reviewers and climbers Andy Wellman and Matt Bento. Matt is a long-time Yosemite Valley denizen, YOSAR veteran, frequent desert rat, and life long road dog. Before reviewing cams professionally, he was falling on the cheapest rack he could put together from for-sale ads on the Camp 4 board. From finagling body weight placements in granite to blindly slamming cams in the endless corners of Indian Creek, he's become quite intimate with every make and model over the last 10+ years of climbing. Andy has been trad and big wall climbing for the past 22 years, a quest that began when he swore to learn to rock climb so he could climb the Diamond on Longs Peak, which he first saw on a hike up the standard trail. The road has been a long one, with years spent honing the craft in Eldorado Canyon and on the sides of El Cap in Yosemite, with many long adventure routes along the way in places like the Black Canyon, Bugaboos, Squamish, Cordillera Blanca, Zion, the Utah Desert, Red Rocks, and of course, up on the Diamond. He currently lives in Terrebonne, Oregon, where he plugs cams into Basalt cracks at the nearby Lower Gorge of Smith Rock and Trout Creek.

Organizing the rack and making sure everything is perfectly in order before heading up another classic Smith Rock dihedral while testing Link Cams.
These cams were the lightest in our review.
Leaving the ground with a whole rack of hand sized cams for a lead of another long Trout Creek splitter  Gold Rush  which takes a whole lot of gold metal to protect. While they are a bit heavier than other similar sized cams  the largest Link Cam worked well to protect this hands sized crack.

The bulk of the climbing cam testing in this review took place on the immaculate granite of the Eastern Sierra, where Pine Creek Canyon offers plenty of opportunity for cam placements of all qualities, from bomber to gut-wrenchingly sketchy. We also made an effort to spend time with each brand in Indian Creek. Here millimeters make a difference between sending and flailing, and our testers get super dialed in on how each cam corresponds to their hand and finger sizes. They're well aware of the subtle differences between a red Metolius and a green C4 and when to place what, even when they're pumped out of their poor little brains. The newer additions were put to the test at Trout Creek and Smith Rock.

Related: How We Tested Climbing Cams

Ben Hoyt topping out the Furry Pink Arete in the Bugaboos  which finishes directly at the southern summit of Snowpatch Spire. Ben's alpine rack is made up of Metolius Ultralight Master Cams  Ultralight Camalots  and Totem Cams.
Ben Hoyt topping out the Furry Pink Arete in the Bugaboos, which finishes directly at the southern summit of Snowpatch Spire. Ben's alpine rack is made up of Metolius Ultralight Master Cams, Ultralight Camalots, and Totem Cams.

Analysis and Test Results


There are several companies that make high-quality spring-loaded camming devices or SLCDs (most climbers just call them cams). All the climbing cams in our review do their main job well. If placed well in bomber stone, they will hold a fall, likely saving your life. Each brand has put thousands of hours of designing and testing to make sure these cams are as reliable as possible, and all the manufacturers have a quality control obsession. Voluntary recalls are not uncommon because each brand stands behind their products and wants our confidence. Meticulous research and development conducted by Black Diamond, Metolius, DMM, Totem, Fixe Hardware, and Wild Country provides us with a huge arsenal of gear to help us stay safe out there, and for that we are grateful! Now on to the nitpicking.

Related: Buying Advice for Climbing Cams

Indian Creek! The red desert where dreams come true... but not without a huge rack of cams.
Indian Creek! The red desert where dreams come true... but not without a huge rack of cams.

Our review includes two main styles of camming devices. First, we have the more rigid traditional cam designs. The Black Diamond Camalot C4, Black Diamond Camalot Ultralight, DMM Dragon Cam, Wild Country Friend, and Omega Pacific Link Cam fall into this category. These cams generally feature a double axle design that offers a wider range than single axle cams. The lobes are relatively thick to disperse energy over a more substantial portion of the rock and increase holding power. The heads on this style of cam are wide and stable and are less prone to walking than narrower cams. Their stems are flexible enough to bend in the direction of a downward pull when placed in a horizontal crack, but they tend to lever out of shallow, vertical placement.

The other style in our review is the small camming device. The DMM Dragonfly, Fixe Hardware Alien Revolution, Metolius Ultralight Master Cam, and the Black Diamond Camalot X4 are all narrow-headed, flexible stemmed cams that bend easily in a horizontal and vertical orientation so they can hold in pin scars and shallow placements. They fit in a wider range of placements than the traditional style cams and are sometimes available in offset sizes to protect flared cracks and make even better use of pin scars. These cams aren't as durable as the traditional style cams, and their tiny parts make them harder to repair. Each of the smallest camming devices have their own advantages and disadvantages, making it harder to build consensus within the community as to which are the best.

Carrying loads of cams can really weigh you down  especially big cams for protecting offwidths.
Carrying loads of cams can really weigh you down, especially big cams for protecting offwidths.

Value


When you need to trust a piece of equipment as much as a climbing cam, it can feel a little counter-intuitive to worry about getting a good value, but we know cost is often a factor in your purchase decisions. The Metolius Ultralight Master Cam are a solid choice if you are on the tightest of budgets. Due to their versatility and incredible durability, the Black Diamond Camalot C4s are another option that give fantastic value for the dollar.


Free Climbing


We all know the feeling of trying to select the correct sized cam from our harness and place it while our forearms are burning, our legs are shaking, and we're looking down at a potentially long fall. For free climbing, cams need to be easy to identify, grab, engage the trigger, and place. To this end, our testers prefer a cam with a thumb loop when they are climbing at their absolute limit. A somewhat rigid stem can also make cams easier to place on the fly, as it's sometimes possible to just shove them in a crack without engaging the triggers. With a floppier cam, you will always have to engage the trigger wires. Familiar color schemes are very helpful for quickly identifying the cam on your gear loops, although this is also dependent on which cams you normally use, and how much you have practiced!


Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights are our favorite cams for free climbing. They are lightweight, easy to grab, hold in your mouth, and easy to place. For pure crack climbing, they can't be beat. They are the easiest cam to place when you're pumped, and their light weight makes a big difference on those Indian Creek splitters where you may find yourself carrying 10 of the same sized piece. Close behind are the Black Diamond Camalot C4's, which make up the majority of most people's racks that we know, as well as the Wild Country Friends, which have a very similar feel and design.

Stefan Griebel leading into the clouds low on the Becky-Chouinard on South Howser Tower  Bugaboos. His rack is made up of Ultralight Camalots  BD X4's  Aliens  and a couple Link Cams for the belays.
Stefan Griebel leading into the clouds low on the Becky-Chouinard on South Howser Tower, Bugaboos. His rack is made up of Ultralight Camalots, BD X4's, Aliens, and a couple Link Cams for the belays.

When it comes to the smaller sizes, we think the DMM Dragonfly cams are the current top choice for free climbing. Their narrow head and round cam lobes fit all sorts of weird pockets and places, and the doubled up extendable sling allows for convenient extension. There are compelling arguments for and against all of the top small camming units, and on our free racks we typically double up with different types of cams. The Black Diamond X4s are another favorite of the small cams for free climbing because of the ergonomic thumb loop. Sometimes the best cam for free climbing is the one that protects the best and feels the safest, so we wouldn't hesitate to free climb with Totem Cams or Fixe Hardware Alien Revolutions when free climbing in areas with pin scars. Totem Cams were designed in Spain with the intention of protecting limestone pockets. Since free climbing is what the vast majority of us do with our climbing cams, it makes sense that we rate it as the most important metric. It accounts for 20% of a product's score.

Our testers preferred cams with thumb loops for free climbing like the Wild Country Friends and the Black Diamond X4s.
Our testers preferred cams with thumb loops for free climbing like the Wild Country Friends and the Black Diamond X4s.

Weight


Light is right for most climbers, whether that means a lighter backpack on the approach, a lighter haul bag on the wall, or just less weight on your harness. The original Friends and rigid stem cams from Chouinard Equipment were heavy and strong. Today's cam manufacturers are in constant competition to make their product lighter while retaining holding power (around 12KN for most of the larger sizes). The average climber will have between 12-20 cams on their harness for each pitch, so even minimal weight savings per unit is important to the bigger picture. If you aren't convinced that weight is significant, try putting on a 10 lb. weight vest at the gym and see how much harder a route becomes. Then think carefully in the future about how much weight you are hauling up each route in the form of cams, nuts, draws, lockers, belay devices, shoes, water, jacket, and rope! It's probably a lot more than 10 lbs, and could be a large reason why trad climbing feels so hard.


Comparing the weight of cams is a tricky undertaking. Black Diamond C4s come in sizes big enough to protect cracks over seven inches wide. Comparing these to a line of finger size only cams like the Fixe Hardware Alien Revolution won't result in any useful info when it comes to deciding what cams to buy. Additionally, cams with a more significant range can protect more sizes with fewer cams. Metolius Ultralight Master Cams cover the same size range with seven cams that Black Diamond Ultralights do with six. Side By side, the Master Cams are lighter, but the BDs can protect more sizes with fewer cams. If you're free climbing at your limit, you'll probably be happy with more cams; if you're cruising easy alpine climbs, you'll want to go lighter with fewer cams.


The lightest cams in our review are the Metolius Ultralight Master Cams; the complete rack from micro cams to big hands weighs 26.7oz (759g). From the removal of the thumb loop to holes in the aluminum triggers, Metolius has pulled out all the stops to make the Mastercams as light as possible. Right behind the Mastercam is the Black Diamond Camalot Ultralight, covering fingers to fist with seven cams, weighing 29.7oz (843g). Lightweight comes with a heavy price tag, but folks are willing to fork over the dough when the feel the significant weight savings on their harness. The Wild Country Friends are lighter than the Black Diamond Camalots, and the DMM Dragon Cams are the heaviest at 41.2oz (1169g). The Dragons offer some weight savings due to their extendable slings, potentially enabling you to carry fewer quickdraws.

Among the finger size cams, the Fixe Hardware Alien Revolution are just a few grams heavier than the same size run of Master Cams. Next comes the Black Diamond X4s weighing only a half-ounce less than a similar size run of Totem Cams. DMM Dragonflies are significantly lighter per unit than the X4's, but a full run is six cams rather than five, so the weight savings between these two would depend on how many of each you plan to carry. Weight accounts for 15% of a product's final score.

Range


We scored our range metric based on the range of the individual cams and the range of sizes available from each brand. A larger range for individual units is handy because it allows you to be slightly less accurate in your sizing of the crack. If you grab the wrong sized cam, you may be able to use it anyway. It also allows less cams to cover the same breadth of sizes, so can be more economical from both weight and money standpoints.

The differences between the ranges of different brands can be subtle. A number 2 friend (left) can protect cracks a few millimeters smaller than the number 2 Camalot
The differences between the ranges of different brands can be subtle. A number 2 friend (left) can protect cracks a few millimeters smaller than the number 2 Camalot

The clear winner when it comes to range is the Black Diamond Camalot. Their double-axle design allows for larger lobes to be contracted smaller, giving them a greater range. The Wild Country Friends, Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights, and the DMM Dragon Cams all share the double axle design, but the Camalots are available in the most sizes (10), protecting cracks from tips to offwidths. This means that with Camalots, you'll be using one familiar color scheme to protect almost every sized crack, making selecting the correct cam much easier. Another interesting option with a wide range are the Omega Pacific Link Cams, which have lobes that are trisected and come apart to make the cam much thinner than its expected range (hard to describe, but it works!). For instance, a #2 gold cam can contract and protect a crack smaller than #1 red size, so you are getting two sizes for one cam. Some people like to carry one or two of these for the end of a long pitch where they aren't sure what size cracks there will be, but are reasonably sure they will only have a few cams left on their harness.


Cams available in offset sizes like the Metolius Ultralight Master Cam, the Fixe Hardware Alien Revolution, and the Black Diamond X4 all received an extra point in the range metric, though offsets are most often useful in areas with pin scars like Yosemite and Zion. Totem Cams scored well in this metric. Their oblong shaped lobes and ability to hold in parallel and flared cracks give them excellent range. Range accounts for 15% of a product's overall score.

Horizontal Cracks


Back in the days of yore, climbers had to tie off their rigid stem cams to prevent the stem from loading over an edge and breaking while in a horizontal crack. Today, all the cams are designed with stems flexible enough to bend in a horizontal placement toward the direction of pull. The more flexible the stem, the better a cam will hold in a horizontal, and the less likely it is to become permanently bent and unusable.

With an extremely flexible cable stem and the "Alien-style" trigger wire design that includes a flexible  sliding sheath over the trigger wire  these cams are ideally suited to horizontal placements. A rounded edge like this poses little threat to the cam when weighted  as opposed to weighting them over sharper edges  and the extendable sling also allows for placing the cam well back from the edge on a shelf if thats all the rock allows.
With an extremely flexible cable stem and the "Alien-style" trigger wire design that includes a flexible, sliding sheath over the trigger wire, these cams are ideally suited to horizontal placements. A rounded edge like this poses little threat to the cam when weighted, as opposed to weighting them over sharper edges, and the extendable sling also allows for placing the cam well back from the edge on a shelf if thats all the rock allows.

Falling on Horizontal Placements
All of the cams described here use a metal cable as the stem, with a plastic sheath usually providing the extra stiffness where needed (the BD Camalot Ultralights are an exception, they use a dyneema sling in the stem). They are all rated to hold falls over an edge, so if you are in a tight bind, don't hesitate to use a less than optimal horizontal placement. Be aware, however, that if you fall on such a placement, where the stem is weighted over a prominent or sharp edge, it is possible or even likely that the stem cable will become kinked, bent, and damaged, and in this case you will need to retire the cam.


Fixe Hardware Alien Revolutions and DMM Dragonflies perform the best in horizontals because of their flexible stems and optional extendable slings. The extendable sling allows you the option to extend the clip-in point over an edge. This is important in deeper horizontal placements where the carabiner could be loaded on an edge, making these cams safer and more confidence inspiring in this type of placement. Next up are the slightly less flexible Black Diamond X4s, followed by the Metolius Ultralight Master Cams and the Totem Cams.

The larger hand sized cams that came out on top in this metric also have an extendable sling. The DMM Dragons have the longest sling, followed by the Wild Country Friends. The Black Diamond Camalots and the Ultralight Camalots will bend in a horizontal placement, but they don't have the extendable sling option. Horizontal placements account for 15% of a cam's overall score.

Tight Placements


Cams with smaller, narrower heads cans fit in smaller, tighter placements, which is a huge advantage. Flexible stems are also nice for tight placements, as they don't tend to lever out on a piece the same way a rigid stem can, especially in shallow pin scars. The DMM Dragonfly is a top scorer, as its green #1 size measures down to 7.8mm, the smallest of any micro cam you can buy, while also still testing at a 6kN strength. The Fixe Aliens are another top choice, with narrow heads and the ability to protect cracks as narrow as .33 inches (8 mm). In terms of aid climbing, carrying a rack of these micro cams can mean the difference between relying on bodyweight only cam hook placement and being able to leave a cam as bomber protection. Another solid choice are the versatile Totems, our Top Pick For Aid Climbing.


Each of these purps (and a red and an orange) will protect about the same sized finger crack  but only the flexible stemmed cams (bottom 4) will protect shallow pods and pin scars.
Each of these purps (and a red and an orange) will protect about the same sized finger crack, but only the flexible stemmed cams (bottom 4) will protect shallow pods and pin scars.

The Black Diamond X4s are also very narrow and deserve a special mention for their range, achieved with a double axle design in the finger sizes, and stacked axles in the micro sizes. Metolius Ultralight Master cams aren't the most narrow in the finger sizes, but they do beat out the Black Diamond Camalots, DMM Dragon Cams, and Wild Country Friends in the hand sizes. The Totem Cams are available in hands and tight hands sizes and fit into unique holes and pods where other hand sized cams are too wide to fit. Tight Placements is weighted as 15% of a product's final score.

The cams placed in the corner have been extended with slings to prevent walking and to reduce rope drag. Wild Country Friends  DMM Dragon Cams  and Fixe Hardware Alien Revolutions all come with a built-in extendable sling.
The cams placed in the corner have been extended with slings to prevent walking and to reduce rope drag. Wild Country Friends, DMM Dragon Cams, and Fixe Hardware Alien Revolutions all come with a built-in extendable sling.

Durability


Depending on how you climb, your cams are going to take a serious beating. Aid climbers are especially hard on cams, bounce testing them in marginal placements and loading them in awkward positions. This can cause the stems to become permanently bent and trigger wires to fray or even break. Falling on cams, depending on their position, always has the potential to cause some damage. While our testers aren't actively trying to destroy these cams, they were on the lookout for any potential durability issues.


The Black Diamond Camalots are the most bombproof durable cams out there. Some of our testers have been using their Camalots for over a decade. The only durability concerns we have with these cams is the nylon sling, which should be replaced after five years. The trigger wires can fray and break, but they are relatively easy to replace, and you can buy new trigger wires from Black Diamond. Metolius Ultralight Master Cams are also durable, but you have to send them back to Metolius when their kevlar trigger wires wear out. The DMM Dragon Cams and the Wild Country Friends are durable like Camalots, but have a lighter Dyneema sling that needs to be replaced more often than nylon. Omega Pacific Link Cams actually have many parts riveted together in their cam lobes, and each of these has the potential to break if the cam is weighted improperly.

Dragonflies are made with 6081 alloy aluminum  which is fairly soft by design. Here you can see the lobes of the yellow #3 and blue #4  with some dents and nicks from being placed and fallen onto. This is by design  as the soft aluminum deforms to allow better bite in the rock  and thus a more secure placement.
Dragonflies are made with 6081 alloy aluminum, which is fairly soft by design. Here you can see the lobes of the yellow #3 and blue #4, with some dents and nicks from being placed and fallen onto. This is by design, as the soft aluminum deforms to allow better bite in the rock, and thus a more secure placement.

Smaller sized climbing cams are generally less durable and more difficult to repair. The Fixe Hardware Alien Revolution have soft aluminum lobes that bite in the rock and grip well but become rounded and break down faster than the harder Metolius and Black Diamond cams. Totem Cams have trigger wires that wrap around the outside of the middle cam lobes, making them vulnerable to abrasion. Replacing the trigger wires on these cams looks like it would be pretty challenging. Durability accounts for 10% of a cams total score.

Walking


Walking refers to the phenomenon where a cam manages to work itself into a different position than the one you placed it in, most often deeper inside of a crack or to a tighter constriction, and not infrequently to a position where it becomes stuck. As the rope slides through the carabiner attached to the sling it moves the cam stem up and down, which in turn moves the cam lobes, creating the walking action by which the cam moves itself. The more outward pull the rope places on a cam, the more likely this is to happen, and thus cams placed under roofs, or as the first piece on a pitch, are most likely to walk. Check out this video of Beth Rodden for a very clear demonstration about how cams walk(as well as a lot of other good info about cam placements). The best way to negate this issue is to extend protection with a sling or alpine draw so that the rope pulls on it less. In the case of the first piece of a pitch, have your belayer stand closer to the wall to reduce the angle the rope runs through this cam at.


Cams with an extendable sling deployed walk the least. The DMM Dragonfly Cams and Dragon Cams have the longest extendable sling, and with a little practice, is easy for the second to re-rack on the go, so long as they always pull on the bar-tacked section of the sling so that the sling will slide through the thumb piece. This makes a world of difference at the end of a long pitch, where rope drag can cripple your free climbing prowess. Wild Country Friends also feature an extendable sling, but it's a little bit shorter than the sling on the Dragons. The Dragon's special thumbpiece keeps the sling from losing strength when extended, whereas the Friend suffers strength loss of 2KN when the sling is extended, though it's still a very strong 10KN. Black Diamond Camalots and Ultralights are wide and stable, but you'll need to extend them with an additional sling if you're concerned with walking.

Although this article is a little old, the science still applies, raising some valid points about how extending an extendable sling on cam may in fact reduce its strength. It also gives good evidence for why you should re-sling your cams when the slings are starting to wear out.

A long extendable sling is the best method of preventing a cam from walking deeper into a crack. The Dragonfly cams have the longest of any in our review  on display here on the Testament Crack  at Smith Rock  and also have a very flexible stem that helps dampen micro movements of the head that can lead to walking.
A long extendable sling is the best method of preventing a cam from walking deeper into a crack. The Dragonfly cams have the longest of any in our review, on display here on the Testament Crack, at Smith Rock, and also have a very flexible stem that helps dampen micro movements of the head that can lead to walking.

A flexible stem both vertically and horizontally also helps prevent cams from wiggling out of their original placements. Fixe Hardware Alien Revolutions do well in this metric, as do the Black Diamond X4s and DMM Dragonflies. Totem Cams are flexible and aren't especially prone to walking, but our testers found that they were difficult to remove if they wiggled into an over cammed position due to the shape of their lobes. Walking accounts for 5% of a cams total score.

Aid Climbing


Aid climbing tests your perseverance, your nerve, and your ingenuity. When you just don't have the guns to crimp and jam your way up El Cap, you have to engineer your way up the wall with the tools you've got in front of you. We like to aid climb with cams that have a thumb loop, giving us extra inches for top stepping and plenty of room to clip our daisies, ladders, etc.


The Totem Cams are our favorite cams for aid climbing by a long shot. They're like the Swiss army knife of cams! Totems have two plastic stems that join in the middle, allowing you to load two lobes at a time for more holding power in shallow, bodyweight placements, or you can load both sides equally like a regular cam. Because both sides operate independently, each Totem size essentially functions like an offset when you need to protect flaring cracks. Additionally, their narrower heads fit in more placements than traditional style cams, and their flexible stems make them great for pin scars and shallow vertical placements.

Aid climbing in Yosemite is where it's at! You'll need offset cams or Totem Cams to protect the pin scars.
Aid climbing in Yosemite is where it's at! You'll need offset cams or Totem Cams to protect the pin scars.

The narrow-headed Fixe Alien Revolutions are also an excellent choice for aid climbing. Their stems are very flexible, they have a thumb loop, and are available in offset sizes. The Black Diamond X4s are also nice for aid climbing, especially if you are already familiar with the Black Diamond size/color scheme, and they also come in offsets, an invaluable type of cam for pin scars on El Cap.

The Metolius Ultralight Master Cams are tough enough to stand up to the abuse of aid climbing, but they lack thumb loops and our testers unanimously agree that cams with thumb loops like the Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights and the Wild Country Friends are better for aid climbing. While the DMM Dragonfly cams are very small, flexible, and do have thumb loops, they currently don't come in offset sizes, and so are slightly less valuable for big wall missions. Aid climbing prowess accounts for 5% of a product's overall score.

Conclusion


Purchasing a full set of any of these cams is a big financial investment. These things ain't cheap, but if you learn how to use them correctly, they can help you access beautiful locations on the sides of soaring cliffs. Keep them clean, lubed, and inspect them often for damage, and you'll have these trusty devices at your side to get you in and out of trouble for many adventures to come, be they hard redpoints at the local crag, blissful scrambles in the mountains, or multi-day trips up El Cap.

Dakota Soifer cleaning cams and trying not to get blown away while seconding the wild and airy third pitch of Idiot Wind  Sundance Buttress  Lumpy Ridge  CO  on a day when the 40 mph winds sure didn't make us feel like we were in the smartest place to be!
Dakota Soifer cleaning cams and trying not to get blown away while seconding the wild and airy third pitch of Idiot Wind, Sundance Buttress, Lumpy Ridge, CO, on a day when the 40 mph winds sure didn't make us feel like we were in the smartest place to be!


Andy Wellman and Matt Bento