DMM Dragon Cam Review
Compare prices at 3 resellers Pros: Good range, extendable sling
Cons: No thumb loop
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DMM Dragon Cam
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|Pros||Good range, extendable sling||Super light, durable, easy to place while free climbing, great range||Wide range per unit, light, rigid when placing but flexible when placed, narrow head width, thumb loop, smallest unit currently made||Great individual cam range, very narrow heads, stiff yet flexible stem, extendable sling||Durable, wide range|
|Cons||No thumb loop||Expensive, need for potential early retirement||Not the most affordable, smaller units lack double axle and aren’t as smooth, trigger wires can’t be replaced at home||Pricey, not the lightest, soft aluminum alloy in cam lobes can be damaged easily||Heavy compared to Ultralight C4s and Metolius|
|Bottom Line||Featuring an extendable sling to reduce rope drag, these cams are a good choice for free climbing||These cams are awesome for long Yosemite free climbs and Indian Creek splitters||A Top Pick for smaller sizes due to the widest range and incredible ease of use||Very fine tuned design that integrates into a rack very well due to matching sizes and colors||These are the most popular cams at Indian Creek due to their great range and durability|
|Rating Categories||DMM Dragon Cam||Black Diamond C4 Ultralight||Black Diamond Camalot Z4||Wild Country Zero Friends||Black Diamond Camalot|
|Free Climbing (20%)|
|Horizontal Cracks (15%)|
|Tight Placements (15%)|
|Aid Climbing (5%)|
|Specs||DMM Dragon Cam||Black Diamond C4...||Black Diamond...||Wild Country Zero...||Black Diamond...|
|Weight (1 inch size piece)||3.63 oz||2.6 oz||2.8 oz.||2.7 oz||3.28 oz|
|Range (inches)||.51-4.48"||.61-4.51"||.29" -1.66"||.32 - 1.62"||.54-7.68"|
|Sling Length (inches)||5-9"||3.75"||3.75"||3.75" - 7"||3.75"|
|Stem width above trigger|
|Single or Double Axle?||Double||Double||Double down to .3||Single||Double|
|High Clip in for Aid?||No||Yes||Yes||Yes||Yes|
|Cam Stops?||Yes||Yes||Yes down to .3||No||Yes|
Our Analysis and Test Results
DMM Dragon Cams are out to make a dent in the Black Diamond cam supremacy that seems pervasive at all American crags. They feature the same size and color scheme as the Camalots, and the same double axle design and camming range. The Dragons are bomber and well suited to parallel placements, with the stems being flexible enough for horizontal placements. However, our testers unanimously preferred Black Diamond Ultralight C4s because they have a thumb loop and are lighter.
Instead of a thumb loop, DMM has developed a strong piece of aluminum that accommodates its extendable sling and creates a large, textured surface for your thumb when you engage the trigger. The expandable sling was a hot topic of debate among our testers. Some found it difficult to extend and most found it difficult to rack on the go when following a pitch. With practice by both the leader and the follower, it's not that bad. You need to make sure that you extend the sling by grabbing the sewn part of the sling that won't slide through the holes in the thumb press. Then the follower can equalize the two loop lengths and re-rack the cam with one hand. If you're following and super pumped, you're just going to clip the cam to your gear loops, and it's going to swing around all over the place. Most of our testers still prefer a thumb loop for free climbing.
These cams are the second heaviest in our review, barely lighter than the same size run of Black Diamond C4s, and almost five ounces more than the Black Diamond Ultralight Camalots. The extended sling could save weight on quickdraws, around 2.8 ounces per lightweight draw, for a total weight savings of 22.8 ounces if you were to extend an entire rack of eight Dragon Cams, which is a fairly significant savings.
A set of Dragons will protect in cracks from 13mm to 144mm. That's from tiny finger size to big fists, covering almost the same range as Camalots, give or take a millimeter.
Until you get down to the thumb loop(less) zone, the stems on the Dragons are very similar to Camalots and are equally flexible, so unless you load them in a shallow horizontal at 90°, these cams hold well and don't become permanently bent. Place them deep in a horizontal and extend the sling and you'll have a great placement that will load with the supple Dyneema sling (hopefully not over a sharp edge), and the cam won't need to bend at all.
Again, these cams are so similar in size and shape to Camalots that their performance in pods, holes, pin scars and other tight placements is equivalent. One nit-picky little difference lays in the gray finger size. The stem on the gray BD ultralight is ever so slightly wider than the cam lobes when the cam lobes are retracted as small as they can go. The thinner stemmed Dragon doesn't get in the way, allowing for it to fit in a slightly smaller spot, in a way over cammed orientation potentially making it harder to get out. For most climbers, this isn't a concern.
Our testers felt that these cams were as durable as the ones made by Wild Country or Black Diamond. In all likelihood the first thing to wear out will be the Dyneema sling.
The extendable sling is a great asset in the fight against the dreaded cam walk. Extend each piece, and you'll be less likely to move the cam out of its perfect placement and also reduce rope drag. DMM has put a lot of thought into the design of their cam lobes, all the way down to the micro level. The "TripleGrip" cam lobes have a raw aluminum finish and a crosshatch pattern of tiny grooves to increase friction and reduce walking in slick rock.
The lack of a thumb loop makes these cams less than optimal for aid climbing. When every inch counts when trying to get to the next good high placement, it's hard to imagine choosing Dragon Cams over cam with a thumb loop like the Wild Country Friends or the Totem Cams. Since the Dragons have wider heads and less flexible stems, they fit in fewer places than "Alien style" cams, and are more likely to become kinked and bent when loaded in shallow pockets and weird positions.
Dragon Cams retail for roughly average among the selection here in our review. The extendable sling might save you a few bucks, as you may not need as many alpine draws. These are a quality piece of well-made climbing equipment, and the value will have to do with how you choose to use them.
The DMM Dragons are reliable and well constructed. They are a bit heavier than the competition, but if the extendable sling feature peaks your interest, you'll be purchasing some high-quality cams. We prefer cams with a thumb loop though.
— Matt Bento