Butora Acro Narrow Fit Review
Cons: Runs small, can be hard to get on and off
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Butora Acro Narrow Fit
$174.95 at Backcountry
|$198.95 at Amazon|
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|$199.00 at REI|
Compare at 2 sellers
$90.00 at REI
$41.83 at REI
|Pros||Multiple sizing options, sensitive, good edging shoe||Great edging shoe, precise, versatile||Comfortable, high performance, sticky rubber, easy to put on, good in cracks, versatile||Inexpensive, comfortable, easy to get on and off||Inexpensive, easy to adjust, comfortable, soft leather upper|
|Cons||Runs small, can be hard to get on and off||Specific shape can cause discomfort for some, expensive||Stretch out quickly, costly, lack support||Lacks stiffness, not designed for high-performance climbing||Not great for smearing, soles lack stickiness of more expensive models|
|Bottom Line||The Acro is an aggressive shoe for steep sport climbing and bouldering||A technical climbing powerhouse, perfect for crimpy limestone lines or long granite free climbs||The Skwama are impressive in many realms, combining comfort with a high performance fit||This shoe is a reasonably priced and very comfortable option great for beginner climbers||A great option for beginners, these shoes are most importantly comfortable and easy to use|
|Rating Categories||Butora Acro Narrow Fit||La Sportiva Miura VS||La Sportiva Skwama...||Five Ten Kirigami -...||La Sportiva Tarantu...|
|Ease of Use (5%)|
|Specs||Butora Acro Narrow Fit||La Sportiva Miura VS||La Sportiva Skwama...||Five Ten Kirigami -...||La Sportiva Tarantu...|
|Weight (Per Pair, size 37)||0.96 lb||0.94 lb||1.00 lb||0.99 lb||0.97 lb|
|Width Options||Narrow and Wide||Regular||Regular||Regular||Regular|
|Fit||Asymmetrical||High Asymmetry||Asymmetrical||Low Asymmetry||Low Asymmetry|
|Sole Rubber||Butyl Butora F5||Vibram XS Grip2||Vibram XS Grip2||Stealth C4||Frixion RS|
Our Analysis and Test Results
If you are looking for a downturned, aggressively shaped slipper, the Butora Acro could be the shoe for you. The fact that these kicks come in different widths makes it easier to get the exact right fit for your foot. If sized correctly, the Acro is a sleek and precise slipper, on par with our other top picks for steep terrain.
Once these shoes are on, the Acro feel like rubber gloves, with no air pockets or wasted space anywhere in shoes. For single pitch routes and bouldering, where you are most likely taking the shoes on and off throughout the day, the Acro is a great choice. We would probably leave them behind on multi-pitch endeavors and instead bring a shoe that is less aggressive. Our narrow-footed testers were happy to see an option that catered specifically to their foot shape, while those with wider feet were equally happy with the wider version of the Acro.
These slippers shine regarding sensitivity, especially after a few days of wearing them in. Initially, we found them almost too downturned to work well as a precision tool, but over time the rubber softened, and the shoes became more sensitive and forgiving. The Acro has a rubber extension on the toe that assists in toe hooking but makes smearing more difficult.
The edging power of the Acro improved over time. The extra toe rubber wore in to be an excellent and precise edge, and the high-tension heel rand keeps pressure on the toe and weight off the arch of the foot. The Acro's 3D Injection-molded midsole provides support from the heel to the toe that helps you feel more secure on dime edges.
Crack climbing is not the Acro's strong suit because of their aggressive downturn and almost hooked toe box. That said, there is not a model in this review with the amount of rubber on the toe box that the Acro wields. These shoes are almost entirely rubber on the front, which can provide extra friction and protection in cracks, but only if the shoes are sized appropriately. If they are sized to a performance fit, the Acro will probably be fairly uncomfortable in cracks.
Steep pocket climbing is the Acro's place to shine. These slippers have a tight fit, an aggressive downturn, and an extension in their rubber toe that make them a steep climbing machine. The narrow version of the Acro makes for an exceptional pocket climbing shoe, as the toe tapers to a small point that can fit in tiny footholds. Their edging prowess also adds to their ability to work well on steep terrain. Our feet seemed like they would never cut on steep terrain in the Acro.
Ease of Use
The Velcro closure of the Acro makes them easy to get on and off. The Acro's have a unique tongue that is made of stretchy, breathable fabric, which gives them a secure feel. This fabric got bunched up occasionally when sliding the shoes on. Fortunately, while this small detail detracts slightly from the overall ease of use of the Acro, it isn't a complete game-changer.
We felt like the Acro is aptly priced. They are a well-made, high-performance shoe that is designed for advanced climbing. The Acro is less expensive than many of the performance Sportiva models, and performs nearly as well, especially on steep terrain. For a specialty tool, the Acro is a reasonably priced option.
The Butora Acro shined most noticeably on steep sport pitches and boulder problems. The fact that they come in both a narrow and a wide option gives you the ability to fine-tune your fit. With that in mind, remember that these shoes run small! So be sure to try them on or order a size or two up from your street shoe to get the proper fit.
— Jane Jackson
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