Scarpa Vapor V - Women's Review
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Scarpa Vapor V - Women's
$199.00 at REI
$148.93 at REI
$199.00 at REI
$99.97 at Amazon
$89.00 at REI
|Pros||Well padded tongue, easy to take on and off, breathable||Great edging shoe, precise, versatile||Comfortable, high performance, sticky rubber, easy to put on, good in cracks, versatile||Inexpensive, comfortable, easy to get on and off||Inexpensive, easy to adjust, comfortable, soft leather upper|
|Cons||Lacks sensitivity, not the best for edging||Specific shape can cause discomfort for some, expensive||Stretch out quickly, costly, lacks support||Lacks stiffness, not designed for high-performance climbing||Not great for smearing, rubber lacks the stickiness of more expensive models|
|Bottom Line||Received average scores in all rating metrics without impressing us too much in any particular realm||A technical climbing powerhouse, perfect for crimpy limestone or long granite free climbs||An impressive shoe in many realms, combining comfort with a high-performance fit||This shoe is a reasonably priced and very comfortable option great for beginner climbers||A great option for beginners, these shoes are comfortable and easy to use|
|Rating Categories||Scarpa Vapor V - Wo...||La Sportiva Miura VS||La Sportiva Skwama...||Five Ten Kirigami -...||La Sportiva Tarantu...|
|Ease of Use (5%)|
|Specs||Scarpa Vapor V - Wo...||La Sportiva Miura VS||La Sportiva Skwama...||Five Ten Kirigami -...||La Sportiva Tarantu...|
|Weight (Per Pair, size 37)||0.91 lb||0.94 lb||0.95 lb||0.99 lb||0.97 lb|
|Fit||Asymmetrical||High Asymmetry||Asymmetrical||Low Asymmetry||Low Asymmetry|
|Sole Rubber||Vibram XS Grip2||Vibram XS Grip2||Vibram XS Grip2||Stealth C4||Frixion RS|
Our Analysis and Test Results
The Scarpa Vapor V is an average performer in all metrics, making it a decent all-around shoe.
Initially, the Vapor V was painful for our wide-footed lead tester. A precaution to those considering buying them, or any Scarpa model - these shoes tend to run small, so going up a half size or full size is not a bad idea. We tested the Vapor V in our normal shoe size and found them to be very, very tight. The synthetic upper, which is a new addition to the updated Vapor, doesn't provide much wiggle room, so don't bank on these puppies stretching out at all.
All that aside, the Vapor V is well padded, yet still breathable, making them great for long days and warm weather. The mesh tongue and side vents kept our feet from getting swampy and sweaty in warm weather.
Sensitivity is not the Vapor V's strong suit. Initially, it was unnerving to stand on small edges and smears since we had a hard time feeling the rock beneath our toes; as they broke in, the Vapors began to feel better. For footwork-intensive climbing like slabs or technical faces, we would recommend something with a bit more sensitivity.
We struggled initially with the Vapor V on edges and small footholds. The shoes felt a bit clunky in the toe box, making it hard to be precise when placing the toe on small holds. It was arduous for the Vapor V to compete with some of the precision masters we've reviewed, which can make footholds out of nothing with their incredible edging prowess.
The Vapors also felt pretty soft underfoot, and this lack of rigidity contributed to the challenges we faced when edging.
The softness that was an issue (when it came to edging) ended up being an advantage in the realm of crack climbing; when jamming thin finger cracks, these shoes impressed us. The Vapor V has rubber on the top of the toe, which is nice when torquing the toes in small cracks. The softness of the shoe also helps them fit into tight cracks with ease. When it comes to wider cracks - hand size and larger - the double Velcro strap on the Vapor runs the risk of wearing out from repetitive jamming. The buckles also pressed into our feet on hand cracks, causing pain.
The Vapor V is undoubtedly designed for steep sport climbing. While they function well in other facets of climbing, sport climbing is where they excel, as the slight downturned shape is conducive to steep, pocketed climbing. Though the bulkiness of the toe box was initially an issue when it came to climbing pockets, we got used to the shape over time and were able to toe into pockets just fine.
Ease of Use
With two Velcro straps and a widely adjustable tongue, the Vapor V is easy to get on and off. The adjustability of the tongue was important at first, as the shoes were a tight fit, and the Velcro straps made it straightforward to slip the heels off at belays or in between goes. The Vapor V is one of the easier Velcro models we've tested since they only have two Velcro straps, instead of three.
If the Vapor V fits your foot comfortably, they could be a great investment. Fairly versatile and well-made, we'd say they're worth the price tag. That said, make sure they fit, since the sizing can be a bit tricky.
Overall, the Scarpa Vapor V is a quality choice for a Velcro, slightly downturned climbing shoe. For gym climbing, steep climbing, or finger cracks, it might be your new best friend. On slabs and technical faces, you may want to look elsewhere for a more sensitive shoe.
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