The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of outdoor gear

The Best Mountaineering Backpacks

Enjoying stellar views and calm conditions on the Ruth Glacier Denali summit is best appreciated from afar on this day.
Thursday July 25, 2019
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We have collected some of the industry's best mountaineering backpacks and put them to the test for this review. We set out on weeks-long expeditions, scrambled up remote alpine peaks, projected steep, intimidating rock routes, swung ice tools on frozen waterfalls, skied volcanoes and couloirs, and dragged them around at our local crag for good measure. Yes, we do love our work as field testers. For this review, we then sat down with our notes—and the perspectives of different types of climbers—and crunched some numbers. We gave each pack a score for each of five metrics: Weight-to-Volume, Comfort, Durability, Versatility, and Features. Then we added them up and found our award winners. Read on to see which packs scored the best, and find the one that best suits your adventurous needs.


Top 11 Product Ratings

Displaying 1 - 5 of 11
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Awards Editors' Choice Award Best Buy Award Top Pick Award  Top Pick Award 
Price $169.95 at Backcountry
Compare at 3 sellers
$179.00 at Backcountry
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$191.66 at Amazon
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$345.00 at Backcountry
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$98.95 at Amazon
Overall Score Sort Icon
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Pros Comfortable, affordable, durable, fully featuredSimple, light, comfortable, highly modularSimple, good weight to volume ratio, durableExtremely light for volume, very comfortable on approach, good ice tool attachment, 100% waterproofLightweight, simple, excellent pack for steep, technical terrain
Cons Not as lightweight as some packsDifficult to overstuff for the approach, some finicky featuresCan't remove the foam suspension pad, not best for heavy loads, requires thoughtful packingOpening the pack is a pain, not durable, no removable bivy padLess durable, less versatile, no side straps
Bottom Line This is an excellent pack for most mountaineering uses, excelling in comfort and versatility, and climbs very well.The Ascensionist is a master of technical ascents with its light weight, versatility, and comfort on the climb.This is a light and durable pack which is a pleasure to use, and quickly became our go-to for a wide variety of climbing adventures.This is a very comfortable and lightweight pack with a few hangups in ease of access and durability.The Blitz is an excellent on-route climbing pack for challenging, steep terrain in the mountains.
Rating Categories Osprey Mutant 38 Patagonia Ascensionist 40 Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45 3400 Ice Pack Black Diamond Blitz 28L
Weight To Volume Ratio (30%)
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Specs Osprey Mutant 38 Patagonia... Arc'teryx Alpha FL... 3400 Ice Pack Black Diamond...
Measured Volume (liters) 37 35 34 50 29
Measured Weight (pounds) 2.84 1.95 1.47 1.7 1.09
Measured Weight (grams) 1288.2 884.5 667.38 771.8 496.1
Weight-To-Volume Ratio (grams per liter) 34.82 25.27 19.63 15.44 17.11
Frame Type Inner framesheet with aluminum stays None Rigid, formed back panel Removable, contoured aluminum stays Foam pad
Fabric 210D nylon with 420HD nylon packcloth on bottom 210D cordura N400r-AC2 nylon 6 ripstop Waterproof dyneema composite fabric Dynex ripstop
Pockets 1 zippered lid 1 zippered lid, 1 small zippered internal 1 front zippered Internal zippered pocket, 1 main compartment, 1 waterproof top lid, 1 internal zippered
Hip belt Yes - reverse wrap hybrid EVA foam w/ gear loops and ice clipper holsters Yes Yes - webbing hip belt Yes - Dyneema Yes - removable webbing belt
Removable Suspension Padding? Removable framesheet and/or dual stays Yes No No Yes
Lid? Yes - removable with stowable FlapJacket for lidless use Yes, attached No No Yes - removable
Hydration System Compatible? Yes, internal pouch with buckled hanging loop No No No Yes

Best Overall Mountaineering and Alpine Model


Osprey Mutant 38


Editors' Choice Award

$169.95
at Backcountry
See It

80
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Weight to Volume Ratio - 30% 5
  • Comfort - 20% 9
  • Durability - 20% 9
  • Versatility - 20% 10
  • Features - 10% 9
Frame: Framesheet, Aluminum Stays | Measured Volume: 38L
Fully featured
Versatile
Very comfortable
Easy to overstuff
Carries heavy loads well
Minimal organization features when stripped down

Once again, our Editors' Choice Award goes to the ever-impressive Osprey Mutant 38. The pack's current mutation is even better than the last, improving utility, versatility, durability, and climbing comfort. This is a pack that morphs from a gear-hauling beast to a light and nimble summit pack in mere moments. It has an excellent suspension for heavier loads and logical and useful climbing features for technical pitches.

Climbers still retain some skepticism toward Osprey as a manufacturer of technical climbing packs. We did, too. They have produced many packs with too many features and so many straps that they slap you in the face when you're on the hardest part of the climb. This pack has more features than some, such as the Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45 and the Patagonia Ascensionist 40, but it can be slimmed down, making it competitive with the simplest and lightest packs in this review. Overall, this is an excellent update to an already awesome mountaineering pack. And in this review, be sure to also check out the Osprey Mutant 52, which fills a void in our hearts—and our backpack quiver—as the most comfortable mountaineering backpack of its size: a Mutant now relevant to longer and more complex, colder, or more gear-intensive climbs.

Read review: Osprey Mutant 38

Best Bang for Your Buck


Patagonia Ascensionist 40


Best Buy Award

$179.00
at Backcountry
See It

78
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Weight to Volume Ratio - 30% 7
  • Comfort - 20% 7
  • Durability - 20% 8
  • Versatility - 20% 10
  • Features - 10% 7
Frame: None | Measured Volume: 35L
Highly versatile
Excellent streamlined features
Lightweight
Durable
Difficult to overstuff
Framesheet boxy with light loads
Back panel floppy without frame sheet
Must cut hip belt to remove the padding

Our Best Buy Award goes to the Patagonia Ascensionist 40. Sure it's usually slightly more expensive than our overall winner, the Osprey Mutant, but it's so versatile that it offers a slightly better value. This is an excellent mountaineering backpack for a variety of uses. It strikes a middle ground between the other two winners, the fully featured Mutant and the streamlined Arc'teryx Alpha. It has a few extra features like side straps, small hip pads, and a useful zippered top-access pocket, but they come with minimal weight and complexity penalties. This pack is comfortable when loaded down for the approach and lightweight and graceful on technical climbs.

Naturally, the Ascensionist has a few compromises in its design in order to be so versatile. If you want the absolute lightest pack, the most comfortable option for a long haul, or a little more capacity, you might look to our other award winners. For a true Pack-of-all-Trades, this one does very well, and if you are hoping to avoid accumulating an absurd quiver of climbing backpacks, this one will cover a lot of adventure types.

Read review: Patagonia Ascensionist 40

Top Pick for Longer Trips


Osprey Mutant 52L


Top Pick Award

$200 List
List Price
See It

64
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Weight to Volume Ratio - 30% 3
  • Comfort - 20% 8
  • Durability - 20% 9
  • Versatility - 20% 7
  • Features - 10% 7
Frame: Removable framesheet, dual stays | Measured Volume: 47L
Fully featured
Durable
Versatile
Less compact for summit pushes
Asymmetrical collar makes packing to the brim challenging

Our Top Pick for Longer Trips goes to the biggest pack in Osprey's Mutant series, their 52-liter pack. This version brings valuable volume to our longtime favorite, the Mutant 38. The features are very similar, and the pack even retains most of the climbing comfort of the smaller pack. This is a great mountaineering pack for those who want a fully-featured backpack that is still lightweight enough for steep, challenging, technical terrain. If you were dreaming of a Mutant pack for trips over 3 days in length, for colder weather climbs, or more time in complex terrain, this is likely your dream come true.

There are, of course, a couple of pitfalls with the newfound volume of the 52-liter version. When pared down for a summit push, the 52-liter pack is not as compact or comfortable as their smaller 38 or 22-liter versions—which is probably apparent. It does very well, however, in sustained moderate alpine terrain. We also found the asymmetrical collar difficult to overstuff and would have appreciated a more traditional cylindrical collar, since it would be easier to cram things in to and then cinch closed and compress with the lid. Overall, this pack sets a new, higher bar for technical climbing performance in higher volume backpacks.

Read review: Osprey Mutant 52

Top Pick for Fast and Light


Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45


Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45 cardinal
Top Pick Award

$191.66
(26% off)
at Amazon
See It

72
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Weight to Volume Ratio - 30% 9
  • Comfort - 20% 8
  • Durability - 20% 7
  • Versatility - 20% 5
  • Features - 10% 5
Frame: Rigid/formed panel | Measured Volume: 34L
Simple
Great weight-to-volume ratio
Durable
Must rig your own side straps
Less comfortable with heavy loads
Must pack well for a balanced load

Our Top Pick Award for Fast-and-Light goes to the Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45. It's the third time the Alpha has won an award in our reviews. This mountaineering backpack rewards the savvy packer with an excellent weight-to-volume ratio and impressive durability, especially for its ultra-lightweight. We think of it as a 30-liter pack that can be overstuffed with light, bulky items for a short hike to basecamp when minimizing weight on the climb is a top priority. It is perfect for car-to-car alpinism, and manageable for 1-3 night trips in the summer if you have a very light bivy kit. This pack is a dream on technical climbs. The fabric is extremely durable and can even stand up to some light hauling.

The pack makes some compromises to achieve such impressive climbing comfort at such a lightweight. It is not a fully-featured pack, so it requires some fiddling and creativity if you want to attach things like pickets, trekking poles, or skis (not recommended). To get to base camp, you'll need to pack very mindfully to make sure it carries comfortably. It'll only work if you have a very lightweight kit. This is a niche pack best suited to technical alpine routes with mixed ice and rock, so it's not the most versatile in this review. But it is the mountaineering backpack of choice for alpinists who want to do more with less. It's the model our testers consistently pulled out of the pile when gearing up for difficult routes.

Read review: Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45

Top Pick for On Route


Black Diamond Blitz 28L


Top Pick Award

$98.95
at Amazon
See It

67
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Weight to Volume Ratio - 30% 10
  • Comfort - 20% 7
  • Durability - 20% 4
  • Versatility - 20% 5
  • Features - 10% 5
Frame: Foam pad | Measured Volume: 29L
Easy access and organization
Low weight-to-volume ratio
Low profile
Simple and streamlined
No side straps
Narrow hip belt, no padding
Light fabric is less durable

The Black Diamond Blitz 28 fills a similar niche as the Arc'teryx FL 45, another award winner; however, we think it deserves a nod here as an excellent and affordable addition to your mountaineering pack quiver. This pack is small, simple, and light, making it an excellent companion on routes where you are pushing your grades and trying hard. This pack is the only one in the review that we would take in the mountains as well a on long multipitch rock routes, using it similarly to a small on-route climbing backpack like the old Bullet from Black Diamond or the Bug from Petzl.

There are numerous issues with this pack, notably the durability and lack of versatility for all types of mountaineering. This is not likely a pack you would take ski mountaineering, though you may enjoy the lightweight simplicity of the pack for a mellow day of backcountry skiing. And you'll want to be careful how you pack the bag, so you don't get too much abrasion on your protruding cams. In general, this backpack fills a valuable niche for a decent price, so it edges in for an award.

Read review: Black Diamond Blitz 28

Top Pick for Expeditions


Gregory Denali 100


52
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Weight to Volume Ratio - 30% 4
  • Comfort - 20% 6
  • Durability - 20% 8
  • Versatility - 20% 3
  • Features - 10% 6
Frame: Framesheet, Removable Aluminum Stays | Measured Volume: 90
Snow and expedition specific features
Comfortable when empty or full
Well designed frame and supports
Relatively heavy
Some quirky features

We give the Gregory Denali 100 our Top Pick for Expeditions Award. It shines for its comfort and versatility. We appreciate the Denali for how comfortably it sits on your back. Where it rises above your head, it does not impinge upon your view or range of motion. We also liked the snow-specific features on the Denali, since most packs of this size are likely to encounter snow at some point during an expedition. And, when packed well, it feels secure and streamlined while still allowing easy access to items with large zippered sleeves and pockets.

It's not a featherweight pack meant for a wide variety of expeditions. Gregory built it for Denali, and it does its job well.

Read review: Gregory Denali 100


The Bugaboos were a great testing ground for the updated Mutant 38.
The Bugaboos were a great testing ground for the updated Mutant 38.

Analysis and Test Results


This is a review of mountaineering backpacks for technical alpine climbing. The packs are equipped with features useful for everything from traditional mountaineering with ice axes and crampons to alpine rock climbs, ice climbs, and even ski mountaineering. The main difference between these packs and backpacking packs is in the feature set. These packs are made to carry crampons, ice axes, ice tools, ropes, and potentially skis. They also vary in their shape, size, and carrying comfort.

Related: Buying Advice for Mountaineering Backpacks

Mountaineering packs are often identifiable by their svelte exterior. They sport minimal straps and material that will just whack you in the face when it's windy up high on a ridge. These packs are more streamlined and hug close to your body to improve mobility and climbing comfort, and they are made of light but durable materials.

The ideal alpine climbing pack for most venues in the U.S. needs to be relatively easy to overstuff with several days worth of food and basecamp necessities. Then it must be easy to slim down for your technical summit climb. We want this pack to be streamlined for climbing, but we don't want to so beat up from carrying an awkward load to basecamp that we are aching during the climb itself.

Testing mountaineering backpacks in the Pacific Northwest. Another great day at the office.
Testing mountaineering backpacks in the Pacific Northwest. Another great day at the office.

These packs don't have lots of pockets, access points, straps, or beefy suspension. We scored each mountaineering backpack on the criteria detailed below using a standard scale of 10.

A Note on our Mountaineering Backpack Selection:
We selected a wide range of mountaineering packs for this review. We recognize that alpine climbs come in all shapes and sizes and offer a glimpse into some of the best packs for everything from in-a-day alpine missions to weeks-long expeditions. Most of the packs in this review are in the 30-50 liter range, which is a great all-rounder size. But, you'll find a few outliers, notably the Gregory Denali expedition pack, and some "tweeners" as well. All this is to say — there are a lot of caveats and tradeoffs in choosing a mountaineering pack, so be sure you're applying the right tool for the task. Each review thoroughly discusses the best applications for each pack and can point you in the right direction for your climbing passions.


Value


Our performance scores shake out the best packs from the mediocre ones. The best rise, just like cream to the top of the chart. But our metrics do not take price into account—we want to know what the best packs are without biasing our assessment for or against due to the price tag.

After we figure out which packs are our winners, it's time to figure out just how much you want to spend, and how versatile your pack needs to be. If you're looking for an all-rounder that won't break the bank, check out our Best Buy award winner.

Our Editors' Choice Award-winning Osprey Mutant offers excellent value, but we think the Patagonia Ascensionist is the real ringer here. It excels at everything from laidback crag days to hard-core summit bids, significantly cutting back the number of packs you may consider buying.

Fast and light alpinism on Mt. Baker's North Ridge.
Fast and light alpinism on Mt. Baker's North Ridge.

Weight-To-Volume Ratio


Mountaineering is a physically and technically demanding sport. You need to have everything necessary to survive the harsh mountain environment with you at all times. But if you carry too much weight or a load that's too bulky, you can strain your endurance or compromise your balance on technical maneuvers. This makes the weight of your pack and the volume it can comfortably carry of the utmost importance.

Stripped Weight — Sometimes you may want to consider the stripped weight of a pack. This is the weight of the pack minus any removable components like a lid (aka brain), hip belt, or frame sheet. This measurement is decreasing in importance as more and more pack manufacturers are eliminating the lids, minimizing hip belts, and sewing the frame sheet in place. That is to say, more and more often you're starting with the stripped-down model. We have adjusted some of our scores to avoid penalizing packs that have more features but can still be stripped down to minimize weight.

The HMG 3400 Ice Pack at it's "ideal" volume (left) and "max" volume (right).
The HMG 3400 Ice Pack at it's "ideal" volume (left) and "max" volume (right).

We list each pack's weight-to-volume ratio. But we didn't take the manufacturer's word for it. We measured the volume ourselves with the help of hundreds of ping-pong balls to get an apples-to-apples (or pings-to-pongs) sense of what each pack could handle. We also measured the weights ourselves, with a digital scale.


Because these packs do not all have the same volume, a smaller model of heavier materials could be lighter than a more substantial contender built from lighter weight materials. We use a weight-to-volume ratio because it lets us fairly compare the weights pack weight irrespective of pack size. We measure weight in grams (g) and volume in liters (L) and only measured the capacity of the main compartment, not the lid or any pockets because loading pockets can throw off the pack's balance. This helped normalize the measurement across all manufacturers, as some report volume including pockets, and others without. This score shakes out when we get to features, where packs with lots of pockets scored higher in an objective sense. If you hate pockets, you can look with skepticism upon a highly featured pack.

The Alpha 45 couldn't easily fit our standard 2-3 day climbing kit  but if we thoughtfully trimmed things down and took only a small inflatable pad  it worked just fine.
The Alpha 45 couldn't easily fit our standard 2-3 day climbing kit, but if we thoughtfully trimmed things down and took only a small inflatable pad, it worked just fine.

For a more realistic test, we also put together a sample kit for a weekend of summer alpine climbing. We then packed this gear into each of the packs. While this was less useful for the expedition packs, which gobbled up all the equipment and then some, it provides a known quantity — and a visual aid for comparison. It also helped us to suss out attachment systems for crampons, ice axes, helmets, poles, rope, etc.

Weight is the first thing to consider when selecting gear for alpine climbing and mountaineering, so it's the first of our scoring criteria and receives the highest percentage in the overall score. The Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45 ran away with the best ratio in both calculations, with and without the extendable collar used to measure volume. But the Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Ice Pack was very close behind. The Black Diamond Blitz 28 is an excellent on-route climbing pack to add to your quiver for those more challenging rock and ice routes where you want a pack that really slims down and stays out of your way on the climb.

The Blitz 28 from Black Diamond is streamlined and low profile for excellent performance on technical routes.
The Blitz 28 from Black Diamond is streamlined and low profile for excellent performance on technical routes.

For this review, we measured the weight of the Osprey Mutant 38 without the lid. Due to the increasing number of packs without lids at all, we felt the added weight was an unfair penalty to the Mutant, especially since the lid could be removed and the FlapJacket deployed, making it very similar in design and function to the Patagonia Ascensionist. For the 52 liter Mutant, we left the lid on, as it is a larger pack designed for more carrying capacity.

Comfort


There are two important components to mountaineering pack comfort—comfort on the approach and comfort on the climb. Smaller packs with flexible (or minimal) frame sheets tend to be much more comfortable on technical climbs than larger, beefier packs. Larger packs often have more substantial suspension systems, frame sheets, stays, and padding. These are usually much more comfortable on the approach than an overloaded fast-and-light pack but will feel cumbersome on technical rock and ice routes.

We are seeing more and more mountaineering backpack models with flat back panels and simple suspension systems. Pack manufacturers are increasingly eliminating the lid and even the load lifter straps on top of the shoulder straps. At first, we were skeptical, assuming that this design would boost climbing performance at the expense of comfort on the approach. As we found out, this is not entirely true.


First, let's point out that the more traditional Osprey Mutant 38 is still the most comfortable with heavy loads. It has a minimal frame, but it carries up to 50 pounds with ease (as easy as carrying 50 pounds on your back can be, anyway).

But let's look at the surprising performance of our other two comfort winners, the Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45 and the Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Ice Pack. Both of these have relatively flat and flexible, but firm frame sheets. They rest flush on your back and therefore move fluidly with you through any terrain. This contact with your back distributes some of the load, rather than focusing it on your hips and shoulders. They then add straps to tilt the weight one way or another to balance it. It's simple, and it works.

Our physical therapist consultant approved of the comfort and support offered by the Alpha FL 45.
Our physical therapist consultant approved of the comfort and support offered by the Alpha FL 45.

To better help us understand why this works, we consulted with a physical therapist and climber who explained why this makes sense. To summarize, traditional packs with lumbar support push your spine into extension, which is a strong structural position for those unaccustomed to carrying a backpack. It doesn't work as well for fit, avid alpine climbers. It locks our bodies in one position, making it harder to move. Being able to flex allows us to fully exhale, rotate our torso more thoroughly, and tilt our pelvis backward, making high stepping much easier. This means you have to fight the shape of the pack less, thus saving energy.

Another critical reason why these simple pack designs work is the concurrent increase in ultralight, durable climbing equipment — particularly sleeping pads, sleeping bags, and shelters. Add all of this together, and we can go further with less.

Hustling to catch a plane on the Ruth Glacier was a breeze in the Mission 75  even when hauling a loaded sled full of gear (out of picture).
Hustling to catch a plane on the Ruth Glacier was a breeze in the Mission 75, even when hauling a loaded sled full of gear (out of picture).

Durability


Offwidths and mixed chimneys, bushwhacking, careless crampon use, stuffing bags to their gills—alpine climbing can subject a pack to all sorts of wear and tear. When our testers are in the mountains, they like to focus on climbing instead of babying their equipment.


Fabric durability is rated using a "denier" number, which is the linear mass density of fibers. In other words, a higher denier number denotes a thicker, more durable fabric. A lower number fabric will be thinner and typically lighter weight. However, this rating doesn't tell the whole story. The primary durability determinant for mountaineering backpacks is their fabrics' abrasion resistance. Manufacturing technics, terms, and treatments can make this tricky to parse out.

In general, most mountaineering packs use fabrics with adequate durability for alpine climbing. Some stand out above the rest, such as the impressively durable Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45, and some fall behind the curve, like the Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Ice Pack with its easily-abraded Dyneema.

Climbing the NY Gully on the north side of Mt. Snoqualmie  Washington. Mixed rock and ice means more opportunity to scrape your pack.
Climbing the NY Gully on the north side of Mt. Snoqualmie, Washington. Mixed rock and ice means more opportunity to scrape your pack.

Hyperlite Mountain Gear packs are made of Dyneema or Dyneema/polyester hybrid fabric models. Bare non-woven Dyneema (NWD, also known as Cuben fiber) is exceptionally lightweight, has tremendous tensile strength, and is waterproof. NWD's weakness is abrasion. For this reason, manufacturers using NWD often use it in a hybrid fabric, laminating it with a woven face fabric to improve abrasion resistance. The Hyperlite Ice Pack is constructed with a Cuben fiber/polyester hybrid fabric. Our tests found this to be less resistant to abrasion than the more traditional nylon fabrics in this review.

Many pack manufacturers use fabrics with a lower denier on the sides and top of the pack to save weight. Then they put heavier, higher denier fabrics on the bottom, and on other high-impact areas where you may stow your crampons. Our testers find that, when climbing in typical alpine terrain, the sides of the pack get scratched up. It might be that the only part of a pack that isn't abused is the part that's against your back.

Rugged enough for reasonable contact with rocks  the Ascensionist should last a good long while.
Rugged enough for reasonable contact with rocks, the Ascensionist should last a good long while.

For this reason, we like the consistently durable materials used throughout the Patagonia Ascensionist. We also appreciate the padding on the bottom, a frequent site for pack wear and tear. The Black Diamond Mission 75 is also an excellent example of durability with 420 denier nylon throughout.

Of more concern in the durability department is the strain put on specific areas of the packs due to design and construction. We inspected each model for notable stress points, and any stitching that looked like it would give out over time. Will the compression straps tear out of seams under bulging loads? Does that initially cushy hip belt wimp out over time? Imagine a worst-case scenario — you arrive at the belay, clip your pack to the anchor by its haul loop, only to have that rip out, and your pack falls to the deck hundreds (or maybe thousands) of feet below. The Patagonia Ascensionist is an impressively durable pack for this reason as well. The entire suspension is sewn deep into the skeleton of the pack, making it one of the most solidly reinforced models we have tested.

Among the most durable packs we reviewed  the Scrambler Outdry is a great climbing pack.
Among the most durable packs we reviewed, the Scrambler Outdry is a great climbing pack.

One pack that stands out for its durability is the Mountain Hardwear Scrambler 30 Outdry. Mountain Hardwear eliminated a lot of features and instead focused on durable fabrics. We were often frustrated by the too-tight side pockets and the lack of a key clipper, but this pack is still an excellent choice for multi-pitch rock climbs. This was in large part due to its excellent durability. We knew we could count on this pack, whether biking through town or hanging hundreds of feet off the deck.

Among the most versatile packs we've tested  the Ascensionist is ready for a range of mountain missions.
Among the most versatile packs we've tested, the Ascensionist is ready for a range of mountain missions.

Versatility


Our testers ask a lot of their climbing packs. We want them to be comfortable hauling loads on the approach like a backpack, and then not hinder our movement once on the route, like a climbing day pack. We scored each pack based on its ability to adapt. Versatility also helps you decide if you need to buy three packs for all your adventuring needs, or if you can get away with one Jack- or Jill-of-all-trades.

The Patagonia Ascensionist 40 and Osprey Mutant 38 ran away with top scores for versatility. The Ascensionist's wide, easily cinched mouth make it a great for day-to-day cragging and expeditions alike, and it is burly enough to stand up to mountains of abuse. The Mutant scores so well due to impressive comfort hauling heavy loads and its ability to shift effortlessly onto technical terrain. If you tend towards shorter trips, we'll steer you towards the Ascensionist. The Osprey does better when slightly overloaded.


If you're finding that you love the 35-liter pack size but you're consistently stuffing your pack to the brim, you may consider the next volume up from Osprey, the Mutant 52. It doesn't climb on route quite as well as its smaller cousins, the 38 and 22 liter versions, but it does very well on longer trips and more complex, gear-heavy climbs.


Some packs allow you to remove the frame sheet to reduce weight or to use as an emergency foam sleeping pad, a feature we liked in both the Patagonia Ascensionist and the Black Diamond Mission 75. This feature is seemingly not as common as it used to be, likely because pack manufacturers are finding other ways to improve the comfort-to-weight ratio. For larger models, this can be an excellent feature to know about. We especially liked this feature on the Gregory Denali 100 since you will want to take a foam pad with you on summit day on most high altitude expeditions. This is integrated into the Denali and means one less item to add to your summit pack. Though the process to strip down the Mission 75 took longer than others — it resulted in a very streamlined summit pack that climbed well.

The Mission 75 can be stripped down for summit pushes with its removable lid  framesheet  and hip padding.
The Mission 75 can be stripped down for summit pushes with its removable lid, framesheet, and hip padding.

Some manufacturers went overboard while trying to make their packs more versatile. For example, the Mammut Trion Pro has two different ways to attach two ice tools or axes, which adds weight. The Trion is undoubtedly a decent pack for everything you might want to do in the mountains, and its many features add weight as well as carrying comfort. Everything is a compromise on this pack, and it is optimized for nothing in particular. (Though it does have a distinct lean toward snow sports with the external zipper pocket that makes sense for avalanche rescue gear).

The Ortovox Peak Light 32 however, is very well optimized for ski mountaineering, making it a bit less versatile but very well suited to its purpose.

Enjoying some high-quality ice with the Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45  our Top Pick for Fast and Light adventures.
Enjoying some high-quality ice with the Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45, our Top Pick for Fast and Light adventures.

Features


Simplicity is a great feature in a climbing pack. Well-designed alpine climbing packs more streamlined than your standard backpack. Unnecessary features add weight and complexity while giving you more things to break. For this reason, we gave points to packs that offered only the necessary features that supported the design of the pack.


On the flip side, as long as pack features are useful and don't detract from functionality, we rate the pack highly in this metric. As such, Osprey hits it out of the park—or, climbing gym?—with the Mutant 38. Osprey has a long history of making packs with an excess of features, often to the dismay of climbers who want a simple cylinder with minimal straps. The Mutant has both surprised and pleased many climbers and mountain guides, allaying years of accumulated skepticism with the well designed, durable, versatile, and impressively comfortable Mutant.

The Mutant has a collection of well thought out features  from gear loops and streamlined side straps to pick holsters and T-bars that allow you to deploy your axe one handed  without taking the pack off.
The Mutant has a collection of well thought out features, from gear loops and streamlined side straps to pick holsters and T-bars that allow you to deploy your axe one handed, without taking the pack off.

The Patagonia Ascensionist provides some competition though, boasting a lighter weight per volume than the Osprey, and retaining a lot of the useful features we like in the Mutant. Watch out Osprey. There's competition on the horizon!

Ortovox introduced an interesting take on features for ski mountaineering with their Peak Light 32. While it wasn't ultimately a competitive backpack, it did fit its purposes very well with durable materials, a front access zipper, and an extra ice axe holster on the front of the shoulder strap.

Conclusion


Finding the ideal mountaineering backpack for your needs is a complex calculation of utility, durability, and versatility. The metrics we use in this review weigh several of the most important qualities of a mountaineering pack. We spent months comparing them, side-by-side, as objectively as humanly possible. We hope that the descriptions of our experiences in the field help you to zero in on the pack of your dreams.

Keep in mind that our top-scoring packs may not perfectly suit your needs. Be sure to check out packs that score highest in the categories you care about the most. We have also included a wide variety of pack types in this review, but our metrics still reflect a solid performance for each pack in its specific niche of mountaineering. For example, an expedition pack isn't disadvantaged for being bigger. We assess relative sizes by looking at weight-to-volume ratios to better describe the quality of materials and thoughtfulness of design.

We hope this review helps you find the pack of your dreams!

Climb on!

Standing on top of Europe with energy to spare thanks to the streamlined efficiency of the Mission 75. Mt. Elbrus  Caucasus  Russia.
Standing on top of Europe with energy to spare thanks to the streamlined efficiency of the Mission 75. Mt. Elbrus, Caucasus, Russia.


Lyra Pierotti & Ian McEleney