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From wet and snowy glaciers and peaks in Patagonia, to many laps on steep pitches of solid ice in Ouray, Colorado, to temperate ice climbing in Lee Vining Canyon, California, these boots spent several seasons scaling pristine frozen water, which allowed us to evaluate ice climbing ability. To test hiking ability, we hiked many miles in them on rocky dirt trails, wallowing through snowy approaches, and traipsing about in rain. We scrambled up rock steps, and climbed rock routes in winter to evaluate rock climbing ability. We scored the boots on warmth, water resistance, weight, ice climbing ability, hiking ability, rock climbing ability, and durability. Some top mountaineering boots are only available in unisex versions included in the Men's Mountaineering Boot Review.
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Test Results and Ratings |
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Review by:
McKenzie Long Senior Review Editor OutdoorGearLab
Last Updated:
Wednesday April 10, 2013
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Best Overall Women's Mountaineering BootsLa Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX - Women's
Durable, with ample ankle support Lace-locking grommets Super warm & waterproof Good climbing ability Bit into the top of some tester's feet Sole collects snow No pull-on loops Read review: La Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX - Women's Best Bang for the BuckLowa Mountain Expert GTX EVO - Women's
Easy to get into Deep heel helps create good walking traction Climbs very well Lightweight Less warm than other contenders Webbing loops for laces seem delicate Read review: Lowa Mountain Expert GTX EVO - Women's Top Pick for Three-SeasonLa Sportiva Trango Cube GTX - Women's
Lightweight Incredible edging/climbing ability Comfortable and flexible when hiking Gusseted tongue tightens down well Not the best strictly ice-climbing boot Read review: La Sportiva Trango Cube GTX - Women's Analysis and Test ResultsFinding the perfect mountaineering boot can be tricky. Depending on your objectives, the shape of your foot, and your budget, the search for the ideal boot can take some digging. Here we have compared the top women's models on the market. There are currently only unisex versions of double boots and super-gaiter boots, so if you are a woman who is interested in those warmer styles of boots, read our Men's Mountaineering Boot Review for even more possibilities. WeightThe weight of your boots is significant. As we mentioned in our hiking boot reviews, one pound on your foot is the equivalent to carrying five pounds on your back. Over miles of hiking, this really adds up to more effort and strain on your body. Therefore, lighter is better whenever possible, without sacrificing warmth and protection. The lightest boot in this review is the 3-season La Sportiva Trango Cube GTX - Women's which only has a ¾ shank instead of a full-length shank and also does not have a front toe welt, both of which save on weight. These boots are 21.9 ounces per boot for a size 39.5. The lightness of this boot makes them ideal for long, wintery approaches, but the lack of a toe-welt and fully rigid sole make them not work for vertical ice climbing. The fully rigid boots all weigh more. WarmthAll the mountaineering boots have some type of insulation, but some are warmer than others. We found the warmest to be the Scarpa Mont Blanc Pro GTX - Women's and the Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX. Both are lined with Gore-Tex Insulated Comfort Footwear lining, which is waterproof and insulated to keep your feet protected in winter conditions. The tall, stretchy gaiter-like cuff on the Nepals helps to seal in warmth and keep more of your ankle protected. The Lowa Mountain Experts are insulated with Primaloft synthetic insulation to keep your toes from freezing, but we found them slightly less warm than the other two single boots we reviewed. For even warmer boot options, check out the best double boot, the La Sportiva Spantik or a unisex version of a super-gaiter boot, like the Editors' Choice La Sportiva Batura 2.0 GTX. Water ResistanceAll four women's boots that we evaluated are lined with a waterproof/breathable Gore-Tex membrane. This keeps water out and still lets a moderate amount of perspiration escape so that your feet aren't drenched on the inside. Other features such as the silicone impregnated leather on the Nepal Cubes repels water from the outside- keeping your feet as dry as possible. For even more protection from wetness, check out the unisex versions of super-gaiter boots, such as the La Sportiva Batura. These types of boots have a permanently attached outer gaiter which adds a second layer of protection to the boot. Additionally, the laces usually stay dry by being safely tucked under the gaiter with a waterproof zipper. Rock Climbing AbilityThe most nimble boots for scrambling over rock is the Trango Cube GTX. With a more flexible sole and more sensitive toe due to the lack of a crampon welt, these boots edge and smear surprisingly well for somewhat bulky footwear. The other three fully rigid boots all have Vibram rubber soles for added grip on the rock. The range of motion allowed by the flexible ankle cuff in the Nepal Cube GTX makes scrambling a fairly doable task in clunky boots. Ice Climbing AbilityTwo primary features allow for a boot to climb ice well: a stiff, supportive sole (which every full-shank boot provides), and sufficient heel-lock (which is often a function of the lacing system). Ideally your heel will be held firmly in place without it lifting in the back or sliding forward as you kick. This is where we noticed a difference in the models of boots. When comparing the very similarly designed Mont Blancs and Nepal Cubes, the Nepals shine in the lacing system, which securely holds the heel down, but the Mont Blancs fall short. Seemingly to mimic the Nepals, they have a webbing lace loop on top of a metal lace catch, where the Nepal has a webbing loop above a metal lace lock. On the Nepal, this feature tightens the bottom of the boot and the top of boot separately, which really customizes fit and support. By contrast, the Mont Blancs have an open lace catch instead of a locking piece. This results in the laces coming undone from the catch, but being constricted by the webbing loop above it. This does not allow for additional fit customization, but is instead just really annoying and also allows the heel to slide up instead of staying securely in place. If the lace comes out of the catch, there is no way to fix it with gloves on, so you have to remove your gloves to fiddle with the laces, which are hard to tighten enough as it is. The lacing system on the Lowa Mountain Experts allows them to open up further than any of the other boots, and makes them the easiest and most comfortable to slip into. They also have a metal stud in the center of the tongue, which when laced properly, helps to hold the heel in place. For a less expensive boot, the Mountain Experts climb extremely well. We found the Nepals and the Mountain Experts to be the best boots for climbing vertical ice. The Scarpa Mont Blancs, since they also have a fully rigid sole, are not far behind. The Trango Cube GTX are a three-season boot with a 3/4 shank and no toe welt, so they are not appropriate for vertical ice climbing. Hiking AbilityThe hiking ability of a clunky mountaineering boot is greatly improved by sole rocker. A rockered sole encourages more natural movement, and in combination with a flexible ankle cuff for range of movement, you can walk somewhat naturally. All three of the fully rigid soled boots, the Nepal Cube GTX, the Mountain Expert, and the Mont Blanc, have a rockered sole, though the Mont Blanc has the least Rocker and the Nepal has the most noticeable. Obviously, the best boots for hiking are ones with only a partial shank instead of a fully rigid shank, because these allow for forefoot flex while walking. The Trango Cube GTX is an example of this type of boot, and is designed to be worn on longer hikes and approaches than the fully rigid boots in this review. Another factor affecting hiking ability is the height of the heel on the sole. La Sportiva uses an "Impact Brake System" on the Nepal Cubes, which is essentially a tall heel designed to catch on rocks, dirt, and snow as you hike downhill to prevent you from sliding. This adds more traction and stability to descents. The Nepals had the deepest cut heel of any of the boots we reviewed and while the Mountain Expert and the Trango Cube GTX have the shortest incut in the heels. DurabilityThe most durable pair we evaluated was the La Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX. With an all leater upper, a beefy Vibram sole, and metal lace grommets, there is not much on this well made boot that can fail or break. The only downside we noticed was that the plastic on one of the toe welts began to delaminate slightly. Similarly, the Scarpa Mont Blancs and the Lowa Mountain Experts are also and all leather boot with long life spans. The least durable model is the lightweight Trango Cube GTX, which has a synthetic and fabric upper that will wear out faster than full leather. However, these boots will last several seasons of hard use before wear is noticeable. ConclusionFinding the ideal pair of mountaineering boots to suit your needs can be difficult. We tested four pairs of the top rated women's mountaineering boots to help you compare the available options and make an informed decision when purchasing. To read more about the different styles available and why you might need a pair, consult our Buying Advice article. —
McKenzie Long
Still not sure? Take a look at our buying advice article for more info. |
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