New Colors — February 2017
No longer available in the maroon we tested, the ATC Guide is now available in black, left, and green, right.
Hands-On Review
The ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor.
The ATC Guide was our favorite device for moderate multi-pitch routes.
Catch/Bite
The ATC Guide provides similar friction compared to the other tube-style devices. One side of the friction channels is toothed, the other smooth, to give you two different friction options. It loses points to the assisted braking models because holding a hanging climber requires a constant grip that can tire your hand. We like locking off with it more than the Petzl Reverso 4 though because the ATC Guide's hole to release auto-block mode is recessed. This allows you to bend the rope through the toothed groove at a sharper angle, creating more friction, and ultimately saving hand strength for climbing instead of belaying.
The hole used to release a weighted device in auto-block mode is larger on the Petzl Reverso 4 (left) than the Black Diamond ATC Guide (right). Although this makes lowering an auto-blocked climber slightly harder with the ATC Guide, it also makes locking off easier during regular operation. The wide stem on the large hole of the Reverso 4 prevents you from bending the rope straight down and requires more hand strength to hold a resting climber still.
Lowering/Rappelling
The performance difference between lowering/rappelling with the ATC-Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4 was almost too small to recognize. After extensive blind testing with several different ropes we ultimately concluded that the ATC-Guide is slightly smoother. This difference is so small though, you shouldn't let it impact your purchasing decision.
Feeding Slack
There isn't much variation between the ATC Guide and the three other non-assisted locking devices in feeding slack to a leader. The difference is substantial, however, when compared to the assisted locking models. Without mechanical cams or release handles, the simple tube designs feed easier. This can reduce the chances of short roping and help you make more precise adjustments during critical near-ground clips.
Auto-block (resistance belaying a second)
The lower auto-block friction of the ATC Guide was the primary reason we liked it more than the Petzl Reverso 4. This type of configuration, in which you use the belay device connected to an anchor to belay a second climber can be confusing. Be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions carefully.
The most noticeable thing distinguishing the four passive auto-block devices we tested is the amount of friction in auto-block mode. To examine the differences objectively we used a hanging scale and a brand new model of each device to measure resistance. In our experiments the ATC Guide gave the second least resistance. Compared to the Petzl Reveso 4, the friction savings was only 6-8%, but our testers were able to consistently identify each in blind tests. It's not uncommon for longer multi-pitch routes to require a thousand feet of rope work, and by the end of many we know our elbows appreciated the ATC Guide's lower friction.
Weight/Bulk
The ATC Guide weighs an ounce more than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso 4 (3.2 oz vs. 2.2 oz). For most folks this amount isn't a big deal, but for such a lightweight item, it amounts to a 45% difference. Size-wise the ATC Guide is also a bit larger. Usually we're all in favor of the lightest possible gear, however, in this case we believe the lessened auto-block resistance of the ATC Guide will save most climbers more energy than the extra weight will cost.
Durability
The aluminum on the ATC Guide is pretty tough and should last several years. Causes of eventual retirement vary: the teeth might wear down, edges on the tube can sharpen, or the wire cable could get damaged.
Compared to other tube style devices the ATC Guide is pretty durable. Its teeth seem to last longer than those in the softer aluminum of the Petzl competitors. Other entrants though surpassed it in longevity. Both the
Mammut Smart and
Edelrid Mega Jul are made of stainless steel that stands up better than the ATC Guide's hot forged aluminum.
Best Applications
All things considered, the ATC Guide is our favorite device for all-around multi-pitch use, be it thwacking up frozen waterfalls with twin threads of climbing 'floss' or projecting big wall free climbs with a single 10-mm cable. We especially recommend it for climbers prone to elbow or shoulder overuse injuries.
Value
At $29.95, the ATC Guide costs the same as the Petzl Reverso 4 and less than all the other devices capable of direct belays off an anchor. The extra $8 more than the Black Diamond ATC XP and Petzl Verso is probably worth it if you plan to do some multi-pitch climbing.
Conclusion
The performance difference between the ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4 is closer than we could have imagined. Both devices are smooth and reliable when belaying a leader or rappelling. They're also reasonably priced and durable. The differences amounted ultimately to only weight and auto-block resistance. Although the Reverso 4 is an ounce lighter, over the lifespan of either device, we believe the ATC Guide's lower auto-block friction will actually save most users more energy. For this reason, we consider the ATC Guide our top pick for multi-pitch climbing.
