Edelrid Mega Jul Review

A modified tube-style belay device, the Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device that offers all of the functionality of both tube devices and active assisted braking devices in one compact unit.

Catch and Bite

The Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. When loaded in “assist” mode, a clever slot in the side of the tube body causes the rope to tightly pinch between the device and belay carabiner to provide extra braking strength. This assistance is not as powerful as that provided by the active assisted braking devices on the market, but it generally catches falls completely and holds the fallen climber in place without slipping. We did notice that the belay carabiner matters: when using a thick, round-stock locking carabiner, the Mega Jul held falls completely and without slipping, whereas if we used skinny, lightweight I-beam locking carabiners, some slipping was noticeable, around one centimeter of rope slip per second, even if the lead climber was fully hanging on the rope. This slipping takes very little energy to stop, but it is concerning nonetheless.

Lowering and Rappelling

Depending on how you orient the Mega Jul, it can operate as a standard tube or an assisted locking device while rappelling and lowering. In standard tube mode, with the green loop facing towards the climber's torso, it operates like any other tube, with no brake hand assist. When oriented with the green thumb loop away from the climber's torso, the brake strand is pinched when the device is weighted, preventing the climber from rappelling down the rope or lowering a climber on a top rope. This brake assist is released by pushing gentle force upwards with the thumb of one hand while both palms maintain control of the brake strand.

However, during both lowering and rappelling in assist mode, some shoulder strength is required to lift the green loop up and away from the belayer's harness, which can exhaust the shoulder muscles during long, multi-pitch rappels. This feature also creates a bumpy ride down, as the assist constantly catches and releases, and it's hard to find the sweet spot.

Feeding Slack

Feeding slack with the Mega Jul while belaying the leader requires a similar motion to other tube devices. However, its assisted braking orientation requires you to apply upward pressure on the green thumb loop (with the thumb of the hand holding the brake strand) while feeding out slack. This upward pressure prevents the device from locking up. Additionally, if the lead climber hangs on the rope, then starts climbing again, simply pulling out on the green loop unlocks the brake strand.

Weight and Bulk

At 2.3 ounces, the Mega Jul is the lightest of the assisted braking options and only 0.3 ounces heavier than the lightest auto-block belay device. Size-wise it's also very svelte, with the main tube assembly among the smallest of all. Its wire attachment loop is on the large side, which actually helps with handling when removing the device from a gear loop. We found no practical difference between the size and bulk of the Mega Jul compared to other auto-block or “guide” style tube devices. No other device on the market provides as much security as the Mega Jul in such a small and light package.

Auto Block

While the Mega Jul's accolades generally come from its assisted braking function for lead belaying, it also performs well as an auto-blocking “guide” style tube device when belaying one or two followers. We found that it effectively catches followers without slipping. As for friction when pulling slack through the device, the Mega Jul falls squarely in the middle of the pack, compared to other auto-blocking devices. A round-stock carabiner helps keep this friction to a minimum. Additionally, care must be taken to ensure the device is loaded and clipped correctly, as the Mega Jul uses a different rope orientation than other auto-blocking devices. While it isn't hard to master, this orientation is different and potentially confusing for the uninitiated.

Should You Buy The Edelrid Mega Jul?

The Mega Jul is very affordable for a belay device with auto-block and assisted braking modes. This combination of functions makes this a great quiver-of-one device, whether you are using it for single pitch, multi-pitch, ice, or even gym climbing, where an assisted braking device is often required. We also believe the stainless steel construction improves its durability, further enhancing the value. There are more ergonomic options out there if weight and budget aren't a concern. But for the weight an the price, this device is perfect for users on a budget or those concerned with shaving every gram for alpine climbing.

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