REASONS TO BUY
Lightweight
Small
Great value
Strong braking assistance
REASONS TO AVOID
Tricky rappelling and lowering
Brake assist friction depends on carabiner used
Edelrid Mega Jul Review
A great belay device for light-and-fast climbers and alpinists on hard multi pitch routes
The Mega Jul is a versatile device that provides passive assisted braking, double strand rappelling, and all of the normal capabilities of a tube-style belay device.
Credit: Jack Cramer
RELATED: Best Climbing Belay Device of 2024
Our Verdict
The Edelrid Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking belay device, which means it can be used as both a traditional tube device and an assisted braking device when belaying the leader. It provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest, just like active-assisted brake devices. Weighing in at 2.3 ounces, it's also light and affordable. Its combination of light weight, low bulk, and the functionality of both an ABD and a tube-style device make it a great quiver-of-one tool for alpinists and hard multi-pitch climbers who want assisted braking without the weight of heavy active ABDs. It has slightly more friction than other auto-block devices when belaying the follower(s), so we recommend that the leader takes a belay with the Mega Jul, and the follower is belayed with a different auto-block or “guide” style tube device. Check out our article on the best belay devices to see how it ranks versus competitors.
Compare to Similar Products
 This Product
Edelrid Mega Jul | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Awards |  Best Bang for the Buck | ||||
| Price | $49.95 at REI Compare at 2 sellers | $29.88 at Amazon Compare at 4 sellers | $34.95 at Dick's Sporting Goods Compare at 2 sellers | $25 List $24.95 at Amazon | $29.95 at Dick's Sporting Goods Compare at 2 sellers |
Overall Score  |
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| Star Rating | |||||
| Bottom Line | Lightweight and cost effective while providing additional tools for catching falls | Simple, durable, and optimal value for multi pitch climbs | Ideal for alpine environments where the ropes are slim and the ounces count | Low price pairs well with the basic tube style design and reliability | Smooth rope handling and a simple design all packed in to a mere two ounces |
| Rating Categories | Edelrid Mega Jul | Black Diamond ATC G... | Petzl Reverso | Black Diamond ATC XP | Petzl Verso |
| Catch and Bite (30%) | |||||
| Lowering and Rappelling (30%) | |||||
| Feeding Slack (20%) | |||||
| Weight and Bulk (10%) | |||||
| Auto Block (10%) | |||||
| Specs | Edelrid Mega Jul | Black Diamond ATC G... | Petzl Reverso | Black Diamond ATC XP | Petzl Verso |
| Style | Passive assisted braking | Auto-block tube | Auto-block tube | Tube style | Tube style |
| Recommended Rope Diameter (Single) | 8.9 mm - 10.5 mm | 8.9 mm - 11 mm | 8.5 mm - 10.5 mm | 9 mm - 11 mm | 8.5 mm - 11 mm |
| Recommended Rope Diameter (Half) | Larger than 8.5 mm | 8.1 mm - 11 mm | 7.1 mm - 9.2 mm | 7.7 mm - 11 mm | 7.1 mm - 9.2 mm |
| Recommended Rope Diameter (Twin) | Larger than 7.9 mm | 8.1 mm - 11 mm | 6.9 mm - 9.2 mm | 8 mm - 11 mm | 6.9 mm - 9.2 mm |
| Weight (oz) | 2.3 oz | 3.2 oz | 2.2 oz | 2.2 oz | 2 oz |
| Double Rope Rappel? | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes |
| Belay Off Anchor? | Yes | Yes | Yes | No | No |
| Assisted Braking? | Yes, passive | No | No | No | No |
Show full specification details ▼Hide full specification details ▲
Our Analysis and Test Results
A modified tube-style belay device, the Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device that offers all of the functionality of both tube devices and active assisted braking devices in one compact unit.
Knowing How to Use Your Belay Device
The information we present is intended to help you make a purchasing decision and should not be construed as advice or instruction. Here is a link to the instruction manual, with pictures!
The information we present is intended to help you make a purchasing decision and should not be construed as advice or instruction. Here is a link to the instruction manual, with pictures!
Performance Comparison
The Edelrid Mega Jul rigged for a top rope or lead belay. In this configuration it will provide some braking assistance but feeding rope will require an upward tug on the green thumb loop.
Credit: Jack Cramer
Catch and Bite
The Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. When loaded in “assist” mode, a clever slot in the side of the tube body causes the rope to tightly pinch between the device and belay carabiner to provide extra braking strength. This assistance is not as powerful as that provided by the active assisted braking devices on the market, but it generally catches falls completely and holds the fallen climber in place without slipping. We did notice that the belay carabiner matters: when using a thick, round-stock locking carabiner, the Mega Jul held falls completely and without slipping, whereas if we used skinny, lightweight I-beam locking carabiners, some slipping was noticeable, around one centimeter of rope slip per second, even if the lead climber was fully hanging on the rope. This slipping takes very little energy to stop, but it is concerning nonetheless.
The slots in the tube allow the belay carabiner to pinch the rope against the body of the device, creating enough bite to catch a leader fall. We recommend a round-stock carabiner to maximize bite.
Credit: Jack Cramer
Lowering and Rappelling
Depending on how you orient the Mega Jul, it can operate as a standard tube or an assisted locking device while rappelling and lowering. In standard tube mode, with the green loop facing towards the climber's torso, it operates like any other tube, with no brake hand assist. When oriented with the green thumb loop away from the climber's torso, the brake strand is pinched when the device is weighted, preventing the climber from rappelling down the rope or lowering a climber on a top rope. This brake assist is released by pushing gentle force upwards with the thumb of one hand while both palms maintain control of the brake strand.
During rappels face the green thumb loop away from you and the Mega Jul claims a unique ability to auto-lock. We found this to work in our testing, but it is not without downside. Feeding rope in this position requires upward pressure on the thumb loop that can quickly fatigue your arm/shoulder.
Credit: Jack Cramer
However, during both lowering and rappelling in assist mode, some shoulder strength is required to lift the green loop up and away from the belayer's harness, which can exhaust the shoulder muscles during long, multi-pitch rappels. This feature also creates a bumpy ride down, as the assist constantly catches and releases, and it's hard to find the sweet spot.
Feeding Slack
Feeding slack with the Mega Jul while belaying the leader requires a similar motion to other tube devices. However, its assisted braking orientation requires you to apply upward pressure on the green thumb loop (with the thumb of the hand holding the brake strand) while feeding out slack. This upward pressure prevents the device from locking up. Additionally, if the lead climber hangs on the rope, then starts climbing again, simply pulling out on the green loop unlocks the brake strand.
The Edelrid Mega Jul in assist orientation while belaying a leader. This function helps this device stand apart for maximizing security while keeping a low weight.
Credit: Jack Cramer
Weight and Bulk
At 2.3 ounces, the Mega Jul is the lightest of the assisted braking options and only 0.3 ounces heavier than the lightest auto-block belay device. Size-wise it's also very svelte, with the main tube assembly among the smallest of all. Its wire attachment loop is on the large side, which actually helps with handling when removing the device from a gear loop. We found no practical difference between the size and bulk of the Mega Jul compared to other auto-block or “guide” style tube devices. No other device on the market provides as much security as the Mega Jul in such a small and light package.
At 2.3 oz the Edelrid Mega Jul is super light for an assisted braking device, and relatively comparable to many aluminum tube-style devices.
Credit: Jack Cramer
Auto Block
While the Mega Jul's accolades generally come from its assisted braking function for lead belaying, it also performs well as an auto-blocking “guide” style tube device when belaying one or two followers. We found that it effectively catches followers without slipping. As for friction when pulling slack through the device, the Mega Jul falls squarely in the middle of the pack, compared to other auto-blocking devices. A round-stock carabiner helps keep this friction to a minimum. Additionally, care must be taken to ensure the device is loaded and clipped correctly, as the Mega Jul uses a different rope orientation than other auto-blocking devices. While it isn't hard to master, this orientation is different and potentially confusing for the uninitiated.
The Mega Jul set up in our tests of belaying a second climber from an anchor (Auto-Block). Note that this configuration is a bit tricky, and it is crucial that you read the manual carefully. The configuration differs for belaying one climber vs. two, so use caution to make sure you have it set up properly.
Credit: Jack Cramer
Should You Buy The Edelrid Mega Jul?
The Mega Jul is very affordable for a belay device with auto-block and assisted braking modes. This combination of functions makes this a great quiver-of-one device, whether you are using it for single pitch, multi-pitch, ice, or even gym climbing, where an assisted braking device is often required. We also believe the stainless steel construction improves its durability, further enhancing the value. There are more ergonomic options out there if weight and budget aren't a concern. But for the weight an the price, this device is perfect for users on a budget or those concerned with shaving every gram for alpine climbing.
What Other Belay Devices Should You Consider?
The Edelrid Mega Jul is a true jack of all trades, but master of none. We prefer the additional versatility of the Edelrid Giga Jul, which is a bit heavier and more expensive, but operates better in tube-style and auto-block configurations. If you want even more assisted-braking performance, the Petzl Gri Gri is a perennial favorite, and the Edelrid Pinch is perfect for left-handed users. If you want to save some money, the Black Diamond ATC Guide offers tube-style lead belaying and auto-block belaying from above.
—
Jeff Dobronyi , Andy Wellman & Jack Cramer
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