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Petzl Reverso Review

A match made in rock heaven for skinny ropes and climbers counting weight.
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Price:  $30 List | $22.46 at Backcountry
Compare prices at 3 resellers
Pros:  Lightweight, easy to unlock, great for belaying two skinny ropes
Cons:  Softer aluminum seems less durable, not ideal with ropes thicker than 9.5mm
Manufacturer:   Petzl
By Andy Wellman & Jack Cramer  ⋅  Apr 24, 2019
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72
OVERALL
SCORE

RANKED
#5 of 15
  • Catch and Bite - 30% 5
  • Lowering and Rappelling - 30% 9
  • Feeding Slack - 20% 9
  • Weight and Bulk - 10% 9
  • Auto Block - 10% 3

Our Verdict

The Petzl Reverso used to be our favorite belay device for multi-pitch climbing. However, we now just barely prefer the Black Diamond ATC Guide because it's smoother when belaying a follower off an anchor, and more durable. That said, the Reverso is an ounce lighter and if you use skinny ropes, it might be the better option. It uses a standard tube-style design with an extra clip in point to orient the device perfectly for use in auto-block mode belaying a second off the anchor. It really shines in multi-pitch situations, where its versatility for use with two ropes, while lead belaying, rappelling, and belaying the second in auto-block are all highly valued. It also functions great for single pitch climbing, and is more versatile than the similar Petzl Verso, which isn't capable of belaying in auto-block mode.


Compare to Similar Products

Our Analysis and Test Results

The Petzl Reverso is a tube-style belay device with auto-block capability.

Performance Comparison


Rigging the Reverso for a rappel. This was one of our favorite devices for multi-pitch climbs thanks to its smooth rappels and how well it worked with sub-9 mm alpine style ropes.
Rigging the Reverso for a rappel. This was one of our favorite devices for multi-pitch climbs thanks to its smooth rappels and how well it worked with sub-9 mm alpine style ropes.

Catch/Bite


It is difficult for us to accurately determine the difference in catch between the simple tube devices. The Reverso seems to bite as well as the Petzl Verso, Black Diamond ATC Guide and the ATC XP. The one variation we observed though was the hand strength required to lock off and hold a resting climber in place. The enlarged hole on the new Reverso for releasing a weighted rope in auto-block mode got in the way when we were trying to lock off. This means it requires slightly more strength to hold the rope still with the Reverso than with the ATC Guide.

The hole used to release a weighted device in auto-block mode is larger on the Petzl Reverso 4 (left) than the Black Diamond ATC Guide (right). Although this makes lowering an auto-blocked climber slightly harder with the ATC Guide it also makes locking off easier during regular operation. The wide stem on the large hole of the Reverso 4 prevents you from bending the rope straight down and requires more hand strength to hold a resting climber still.
The hole used to release a weighted device in auto-block mode is larger on the Petzl Reverso 4 (left) than the Black Diamond ATC Guide (right). Although this makes lowering an auto-blocked climber slightly harder with the ATC Guide, it also makes locking off easier during regular operation. The wide stem on the large hole of the Reverso 4 prevents you from bending the rope straight down and requires more hand strength to hold a resting climber still.

Lowering/Rappelling


With two friction channels, the Reverso is capable of rappelling two ropes. There are also two options for orienting the belay bight; use the teeth for higher friction or smooth things out in the other direction. In blind tests with the Black Diamond ATC Guide, we found the Reverso ever so slightly more jerky.

The Petzl Reverso 4 was one of our favorite devices to rappel with though in blind tests we found it a hair jerkier than the Black Diamond ATC Guide.
The Petzl Reverso 4 was one of our favorite devices to rappel with, though in blind tests we found it a hair jerkier than the Black Diamond ATC Guide.

Feeding Slack


All of the classic tube-style devices feed slack out to a leader consistently well. Unlike the assisted braking models, there is little chance of getting into a short roping tug of war with a device that has no levers or cams to depress. Each tube device performed slightly better or worse depending on the texture and stiffness of the rope used, so it's hard for us to generalize. However, we liked the Reverso most with smaller diameter ropes (in the sub-9.5mm range).

Weight/Bulk


At 2.2 oz, the Reverso is tied for the second lightest belay device overall and is the lightest to offer auto-block mode for belaying a second off an anchor. Its closest competitor, the Black Diamond ATC Guide, weighs close to an ounce more.

The Black Diamond ATC Guide (left) is slightly larger and heavier than its closest competitor the Petzl Reverso 4 (right).
The Black Diamond ATC Guide (left) is slightly larger and heavier than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso 4 (right).

Auto-block (resistance belaying a second)


The largest difference between the Reverso and the Black Diamond ATC Guide is the friction in auto-block mode. In our tests, the Reverso created a fair bit more resistance than the ATC Guide and this became the deciding factor when we chose our favorite. This difference may not sound like much but was easily identified in blind tests we did in our lab (garage). Over a long pitch or in the presence of rope drag it becomes even more noticeable. Frequent multi-pitchers that like to belay off the anchor can save energy (and elbow pain) using the ATC Guide.

The Reverso 4 in auto-block mode. Belaying directly off the anchor on a multi-pitch route is often the preferred method though the friction with the Reverso 4 was the second highest of the devices we tested.
The Reverso 4 in auto-block mode. Belaying directly off the anchor on a multi-pitch route is often the preferred method, though the friction with the Reverso 4 was the second highest of the devices we tested.

Best Applications


The Reverso's combination of low weight and auto-block capability make it great for alpine multi-pitch routes or anything far from the road. Furthermore, its superior performance with skinnier ropes (down to 7.5mm) strengthens its case for use with twin or half ropes.

While we liked the way the Reverso handled with thin lines gloves and a prussik back up can help ensure safe rappelling when using a skinny tag line.
While we liked the way the Reverso handled with thin lines, gloves and a prussik back up can help ensure safe rappelling when using a skinny tag line.

Value


The Reverso and ATC Guide now retail at the same price, $30. This is cheaper than all the other devices we tested that are capable of belaying directly off an anchor. However, the ATC Guide is more durable in our tests, making it the better value. If your climbing plans include even an occasional multi-pitch route, we suggest you fork up the extra $8 to get one of these auto-block devices over the cheaper basic versions.

Conclusion


For years the Petzl Reverso and Black Diamond ATC Guide have been two of the most popular belay devices among American multi-pitch climbers. It's easy to understand why: they're both affordable, smooth, and reliable. At first glance, our testers thought they would prefer the Reverso because it's lighter and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler. However, when we compared the two side-by-side with the same ropes in a controlled environment (especially in auto-block mode) the ATC Guide came out on top. The difference is small though, so if you've already got a Reverso and like it, don't feel any pressure to switch.

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— Andy Wellman & Jack Cramer