Petzl GriGri+ Review
Our Verdict
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This Product
Petzl GriGri+ | |||||
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Awards | Best for New Climbers | Best Overall for Experienced Climbers | Most Versatile | Excellent for Lead Belaying | Best Bang for the Buck |
Price | $127.00 at Amazon Compare at 3 sellers | $96.99 at Amazon Compare at 3 sellers | $59.95 at REI Compare at 4 sellers | $129.95 at Amazon Compare at 3 sellers | $29.88 at Amazon Compare at 4 sellers |
Overall Score | |||||
Star Rating | |||||
Bottom Line | A versatile assisted-braking device with well-designed safety features | By far the most popular belay device in the world is also one of the very best | A unique combination of many different belay modes in one device | A great device for single-pitch cragging, whether you are leading or top-roping | Simple, durable, and optimal value for multi pitch climbs |
Rating Categories | Petzl GriGri+ | Petzl GriGri | Edelrid Giga Jul | Petzl Neox | Black Diamond ATC G... |
Catch and Bite (30%) | |||||
Lowering and Rappelling (30%) | |||||
Feeding Slack (20%) | |||||
Weight and Bulk (10%) | |||||
Auto Block (10%) | |||||
Specs | Petzl GriGri+ | Petzl GriGri | Edelrid Giga Jul | Petzl Neox | Black Diamond ATC G... |
Style | Active assisted braking | Active assisted braking | Passive assisted braking | Active assisted braking | Auto-block tube |
Recommended Rope Diameter (Single) | 8.5 mm - 11 mm (optimized for 8.9 mm - 10.5 mm) | 8.5 mm - 11 mm (optimized for 8.9 mm - 10.5 mm) | Assisted: N/A Manual: 8.6 mm - 9.1 mm |
8.5 mm - 11 mm | 8.9 mm - 11 mm |
Recommended Rope Diameter (Half) | N/A | N/A | Assisted: 7.9 mm - 9.2 mm Manual: 8.6 mm - 9 mm |
N/A | 8.1 mm - 11 mm |
Recommended Rope Diameter (Twin) | N/A | N/A | Assisted: 7.1 mm - 8.9 mm Manual: 7.1 mm - 9.2 mm |
N/A | 8.1 mm - 11 mm |
Weight (oz) | 7.1 oz | 6.3 oz | 4.3 oz | 8.3 oz | 3.2 oz |
Double Rope Rappel? | No | No | Yes | No | Yes |
Belay Off Anchor? | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes |
Assisted Braking? | Yes, active | Yes, active | Yes, passive | Yes, active | No |
Our Analysis and Test Results
The Petzl GriGri+ is an active assisted-braking belay device. It can be used for all climbing functions on a single rope, including lead belaying, top rope belaying, and single-strand rappelling. It has an anti-panic handle that locks the cam when it's pulled back too hard, adding an extra level of safety while lowering. It is one of most expensive belay devices in our review, but its outstanding performance should justify this high price for most users.
Be aware that while we will talk about how the device is used in this review for your benefit while making a purchasing decision, none of what we say should be construed as instruction. Check out this solid instructional video on how to belay with a GriGri. Or check out Petzl's instruction manual PDF for correct usage and limitations, found on this page.
The GriGri+ was developed to address a couple of the GriGri's shortcomings for newer belayers. The anti-panic handle and the toggle switch between top-rope and lead modes, which add security to the climber, are only present on the +. The + also has a stainless steel insert that runs over the lowering bar, enhancing the durability in a high-wear area. The + costs about 30% more and weighs about an ounce more.
For users who new to active assisted-braking devices, or who will be putting the device in the hands of inexperienced belayers, the GriGri+ is an excellent choice.Performance Comparison
Catch and Bite
The GriGri+ handles a wide range of rope diameters. Its optimal range of rope diameters is 8.9 to 10.5 mm, with an acceptable range of 8.5 to 11 mm, covering virtually all single ropes on the market. Feeding slack can be tricky on ropes that are thicker than 10 mm and a bit too smooth on ropes thinner than 9.2 mm. The catch of the GriGri+ is relatively static and almost identical to that of the GriGri.
When a climber falls, the device uses a spring loaded cam to pinch and grip the rope, much like other active assist belay devices. We didn't find it to be the absolute softest catch given by these devices, mostly because the device allows very little rope to slip through the device when weighted. Some other devices allow more rope to slip through before catching, similar to what happens on a regular tube style belay device. The lack of rope slip didn't feel too significant while falling or while catching a fall because rope stretch and attentive belaying provide a soft enough catch.
Lowering and Rappelling
Like the other active assisted-braking devices in this review, the GriGri+ only works on a single strand, making it necessary to carry a separate device for double-strand rappels. The GriGri+ has an anti-panic handle that locks the cam when the lever is pulled too far open. This feature makes the GriGri+ a more suitable device for inexperienced belayers than the GriGri. But, this feature sometimes creates jerky lowering action.
There are other devices that also have anti-panic handles, but they are heavier and can't accommodate as wide a range of rope diameters as the GriGri+. Occasionally, we had some issues with it locking up unintentionally, especially while rappelling and lowering on stiff and large-diameter ropes. The descent is nowhere near as smooth or enjoyable as you can find with a standard tube style rappel device.
Feeding Slack
The GriGri+ is unique because of its two different modes for top-rope and lead belaying. These are controlled with a locking dial that adjusts the resistance of the device's cam. The cam is very sensitive in top-rope mode and feels nearly one-directional, where rope can only be taken in from the climbing strand. The cam is less sensitive in lead mode, allowing slack to be payed out with ease, yet it still engages from the higher forces of lead falls.
In its lead mode, the GriGri+ is comparable to the GriGri when it comes to feeding slack. It is among the smoothest assisted-braking devices for paying out rope because of its wide range of acceptable rope diameters. Feeding slack is very difficult if you try to lead belay while the device is in top rope mode, which makes it necessary to double check that it is set to the correct mode before belaying.
Unfortunately, this is an easy step to miss when switching back and forth at the crag. It is also challenging to get the dial to turn. You have to insert something sharp into the dial to release it, and unless you climb with your keys in your pocket, you might not always have something on hand that can help you make the switch.
Weight and Bulk
The GriGri+ weighs 7.1 ounces, only one ounce more than the GriGri. It is almost exactly the same size and shape, but the + includes a steep strip where the brake strand runs over the edge of the device when lowering. For many users, the benefit of the added features in this model easily justifies the extra ounce, and the added durability from the steel strip is a nice upgrade.
The GriGri+ is lighter and less bulky than most of the other active assisted-braking devices, which can be surprisingly heavy. Passive assisted-braking devices are lighter but don't offer the performance advantages of the GriGri+.
Auto Block
The GriGri+ adds minimal resistance when belaying a follower directly off an anchor from above and feels about the same as the GriGri. This is a substantial step up from auto-block tube-style devices, which have a lot more friction built into their system. For long multi-pitch routes, you'll save a lot of energy by belaying off the anchor with a GriGri+.
Should You Buy the Petzl GriGri+?
The GriGri+ is one of the most expensive belay devices in our review. It costs quite a bit more than the GriGri, but should last longer thanks to the stainless steel brake strand strip. If you are new to climbing and want the best set of safety features in your belay device, this is a great choice. If you are experienced with active assisted-braking devices, it might not be worth the added cost, but the steel reinforcement at the brake strand bending point might be worth the investment.
What Other Belay Devices Should You Consider?
The Petzl GriGri is very similar, lacks some key safety features, and is an ounce lighter, and we prefer that option for experienced climbers. The Petzl Neox is the best device for belaying leaders, significantly reducing the chances of short-roping the climber. The Edelrid Pinch is the best active assisted-braking device for lefties. And if you are looking for one belay device that can do it all, from rappelling on two ropes to giving a secure belay on one or two ropes, the Edelrid Giga Jul is the most versatile choice.