The Matik is an active assisted braking device from Camp that costs a whopping $200. That's pretty steep for a belay device and nearly ten times the cost of our Best Buy winning Black Diamond ATC XP. However, for that price, you are getting a sophisticated piece of machinery. The Matik's friction surfaces are all made of cast stainless steel, and this contributes to our opinion that it's the most durable device out there. Also, unlike other mechanical assisted locking models, it boasts a gradual camming action that produces a dynamic catch and can reportedly reduce impact forces by as much as 40%. The lowering mechanism also includes an anti-panic system that automatically stops the rope if the belayer pulls the handle too hard or loses control. Despite these innovative features, we still prefer the Petzl GriGri because it's lighter (6.1 vs. 9.7 oz), smaller, and handles smoother. The Matik deserves praise though, and we recommend it to climbers focused on maximum safety.
Camp Matik Review
Compare prices at 2 resellers Pros: Gradual camming action, anti-panic lowering handle, easier for lefties
Cons: Expensive! Heavy, not quite as smooth as a GriGri
Manufacturer: Camp USA
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|Pros||Gradual camming action, anti-panic lowering handle, easier for lefties||Easy catch and hold, feeds slack smoothly, smooth lowering, handles ropes down to 8.5mm||Great for belaying seconds on multi-pitch climbs, durable, good value||Compact, safe and ergonomic way to pay out slack, a bit less expensive than GriGri||Lightweight, easy to unlock, great for belaying two skinny ropes|
|Cons||Expensive! Heavy, not quite as smooth as a GriGri||A bit clunky, can only use one rope, takes time to master techniques||Heavier than the Reverso||Method of clipping to harness is counter-intuitive, unlocking device under tension takes some practice, easy to lower too quickly||Softer aluminum seems less durable, not ideal with ropes thicker than 9.5mm|
|Bottom Line||Ideal for safety conscious crag climbers and those after a more comfortable catch.||The gold standard remains the best and most popular belay device available today.||The best belay device for multi pitch climbing, rappels, and double rope ascents.||Behind the GriGri and +, this is the second best active assist braking device that we have used.||A match made in rock heaven for skinny ropes and climbers counting weight.|
|Rating Categories||Camp Matik||Petzl GriGri||Black Diamond ATC Guide||Trango Vergo||Petzl Reverso|
|Catch And Bite (30%)|
|Lowering And Rappelling (30%)|
|Feeding Slack (20%)|
|Weight And Bulk (10%)|
|Auto Block (10%)|
|Specs||Camp Matik||Petzl GriGri||Black Diamond ATC...||Trango Vergo||Petzl Reverso|
|Style||Active assisted braking||Active assisted braking||Auto-block tube||Active assisted braking||Auto-block tube|
|Recommended Rope Diameter||8.6 mm - 10.2 mm||8.5 mm - 11 mm||7.7 mm - 11 mm||8.9 mm - 10.7 mm||7.5 mm - 11 mm|
|Weight (oz)||9.7 oz.||6.3 oz.||2.8 oz.||7.1 oz.||2.2 oz.|
|Double Rope Rap?||No||No||Yes||No||Yes|
|Belay off anchor?||Yes||Yes||Yes||Yes||Yes|
|Warranty||3 year||3 year||1 year||1 year||3 year|
Our Analysis and Test Results
The Camp Matik is a mechanical assisted locking belay device with an anti-panic feature on the lever. It's suitable for ropes in the 8.6 - 10.2 mm range. Like most active assist braking devices, it has its own unique method of usage, which requires learning and some practice before it is safe to belay with. In this case, the cam is held open by a trigger that you depress with your index (trigger) finger while pulling out slack. To get a full tutorial, check out this video.
For years one big concern about mechanical assisted braking devices was that the static arrest of the rope increased impact forces on climber, belayer, and gear. The Matik claims to solve this issue with a gradual camming action. In our tests, a couple more inches of rope passed through the Matik in a catch than with the other assisted braking devices. Theoretically, this should decrease impact forces, but we hesitate to say whether this will make a significant difference in real-world applications, as rope elongation and dynamic belaying techniques already go a long way to reducing impact forces in the case of a fall. How much the couple inches of slip through the device adds to these factors probably cannot be quantified. The Matik is approved for rope diameters from 8.6 to 10.2 mm, with Camp claiming 8.6 to 9.6 mm as ideal.
The Matik, Edelrid Eddy, and Petzl GriGri+ have lowering levers with anti-panic mechanisms designed to prevent belayers from lowering climbers too fast. If you pull the lever back too far, the cam locks and the lever must be released before you can begin lowering again. This does add some margin safety by preventing injuries that can result when an inexperienced belayer pulls aggressively and drops their partner to the ground.
For our experienced testers though, this feature created some frustration. In order to lower a climber efficiently, the lever must stay within a narrow range that differs depending on rope diameter, stiffness, and friction. Finding this sweet spot can be tricky at first, or in some high friction circumstances, completely impossible. In those cases, the cam can be depressed with your index finger to manually lower a climber. This creates its own panic problems and is painful on your finger. The sweet spot range on the Matik felt slightly narrower than the Eddy. However, with time our belayers were able to adjust to this range and lower their partners with a smoothness near that of a Petzl GriGri.
Rope feeds smoothly through the Matik at low speeds. To feed slack to a leader quickly, you have to depress a tab at the bottom of the cam, pistol grip-like, using your thumb and forefinger. The motion is not dramatically different from that required with a GriGri except the primary force is applied with the index finger rather than the thumb. The position of the tab allows it to be gripped left or right-handed which makes it easier for southpaws to learn. It's a little harder than the GriGri to feed a big pull quickly because there's more resistance through the device.
The Matik weighs 9.7 ounces, making it the second heaviest belay device we tested. It's also the second largest, trailing only the Edelrid Eddy in both aspects. The stiffest competition in active assisted braking devices is the Petzl GriGri, which weighs 38% less and is the same width but an inch shorter in length.
Auto-block (resistance belaying a second)
The Matik placed in the middle of the field for resistance when belaying a follower directly off an anchor. It's actual resistance numbers though were closer to the lower end. By this we mean the Matik could save you some energy compared to the tube style auto-block devices but will use slightly more than the other single strand assisted locking models.
We like the Matik most for inexperienced belayers or safety conscious craggers. The anti-panic mechanism on the lowering lever helps prevent all-too-common injuries from getting lowered too quickly. Experienced climbers may appreciate the claimed reduced impact forces from a gradual camming action that lets a little rope slip through in a catch. Due to its weight and bulk, we think the Matik shines more for single pitch cragging and in the gym, and we would certainly hesitate to haul it along on longer mountain missions.
The biggest problem with the Matik is price. At $200, this legitimate challenger costs twice as much as the GriGri and $50 more than the +. However, for the extra money, we believe you receive a product that is better made and will last longer, improving its value.
The Matik impressed us with its sturdy construction and combination of safety features. Its anti-panic lowering lever and gradual camming action are sure to prevent some real-world injuries, though these benefits do come with drawbacks. It's heavy, 9.7 oz, and not quite as smooth as the GriGri. Also, we suspect the $200 price tag will be a deal breaker for many shoppers. Until that price comes down, the Matik is best suited for users whose sole concern is safety.
— Andy Wellman & Jack Cramer