The Matik is a new assisted locking design from Camp whose greatest claim to fame so far seems to be its price, $200. That's pretty steep for a belay device and nearly ten times the cost of the Best Buy winning Black Diamond ATC XP. However, you are getting a sophisticated piece of machinery. The Matik's friction surfaces are all made of cast stainless steel, and this contributes to our opinion that it's the most durable device out there. Also, unlike other mechanical assisted locking models, it boasts a gradual camming action that produces a dynamic catch and can reportedly reduce impact forces by as much as 40%. The lowering mechanism also includes an anti-panic system that automatically stops the rope if the belayer pulls the handle too hard or loses control. Despite these innovative features, we still prefer the Petzl GriGri 2 because it's lighter (6.1 vs. 9.7 oz), smaller, and handles smoother. The Matik deserves praise though, and we recommend it to climbers focused on maximum safety.
Camp Matik Review
Cons: Expensive! Heavy, not quite as smooth as a GriGri
Manufacturer: Camp USA
#4 of 13
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Our Analysis and Test Results
The Camp Matik is a mechanical assisted locking belay device with an anti-panic feature on the lever. It's suitable for ropes in the 8.6 - 10.2 mm range.
For years one big concern about mechanical assisted braking devices was that the static arrest of the rope increased impact forces on climber, belayer, and gear. The Matik claims to solve this issue with a gradual camming action. In our tests, a couple more inches of rope passed through the Matik in a catch than with the other assisted braking devices. Theoretically, this should decrease impact forces, but we hesitate to say whether this will make a significant difference in real-world applications. The Matik is approved for rope diameters from 8.6 to 10.2 mm, with Camp claiming 8.6 to 9.6 mm as ideal.
The Matik, Edelrid Eddy, and Petzl GriGri+ have lowering levers with anti-panic mechanisms designed to prevent belayers from lowering climbers too fast. If you pull the lever back too far, the cam locks and the lever must be released before you can begin lowering again. This does add some margin safety by preventing the injuries that can result when an inexperienced belayer pulls aggressively and drops their partner to the ground.
For our experienced testers though, this feature created some frustration. In order to lower a climber efficiently, the lever must stay within a narrow range that differs depending on rope diameter, stiffness, and friction. Finding this sweet spot can be tricky at first, or in some high friction circumstances, completely impossible. In those cases, the cam can be depressed with your index finger to manually lower a climber. This creates its own panic problems and is painful on your finger. The sweet spot range on the Matik felt slightly narrower than the Eddy. However, with time our belayers were able to adjust to this range and lower their partners with a smoothness near that of a Petzl GriGri 2.
Rope feeds smoothly through the Camp Matik at low speeds. To feed slack to a leader quickly, you have to depress a tab at the bottom of the cam, pistol grip-like, using your thumb and forefinger. The motion is not dramatically different from that required with a GriGri except the primary force is applied with the index finger rather than the thumb. The position of the tab allows it to be gripped left or right-handed which makes it easier for southpaws to learn. It's a little harder than the GriGri 2 to feed a big pull quickly because there's more resistance through the device.
Auto-block (resistance belaying a second)
The Matik placed in the middle of the field for resistance when belaying a follower directly off an anchor. It's actual resistance numbers though were closer to the lower end. By this we mean the Matik could save you some energy compared to the tube style auto-block devices but will use slightly more than the other single strand assisted locking models.
The Matik weighs 9.7 ounces making it the second heaviest belay device we tested. It's also the second largest, trailing only the Edelrid Eddy in both aspects. The stiffest competition in active assisted braking devices is the Petzl GriGri 2, which weighs 38% less and is the same width but an inch shorter in length.
One benefit of the Matik's heavy construction is durability. All the parts that come in contact with the rope are made from cast stainless steel that should hold up to friction much better than aluminum. Unlike the plastic lowering levers on other assisted braking options, the Matik's is entirely metal. With a belay device as new as this one, it's hard to make any definite conclusions about durability. At this point, it's been on the market for about a year, and there aren't a ton of user reviews for our editors to analyze. Nevertheless, after six months of testing, we're impressed, and we believe it's likely to last longer than any of the other devices we tried.
We like the Matik most for inexperienced belayers or safety conscious craggers. The anti-panic mechanism on the lowering lever helps prevent all-too-common injuries from getting lowered too quickly. Experienced climbers may appreciate the claimed reduced impact forces from a gradual camming action that lets a little rope slip through in a catch.
The biggest problem with the Matik is price. At $200, this legitimate challenger to the GriGri costs twice as much as the 2 and $50 more than the +. However, for the extra money, we believe you receive a product that is better made and will last longer, improving its value.
The Camp Matik impressed us with its sturdy construction and combination of safety features. Its anti-panic lowering lever and gradual camming action are sure to prevent some real-world injuries, though these benefits do come with drawbacks. It's heavy, 9.7 oz, and not quite as smooth as the GriGri 2. Also, we suspect the $200 price tag will be a deal breaker for many shoppers. Until that price comes down, the Matik is best suited for users whose sole concern is safety.
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Most recent review: January 31, 2016
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