Arc'teryx Gamma LT Hoody
: 17 oz. | Number of pockets
Mobile, stretchy fabric
Excellent all-weather shield
Quality, detailed construction
Pricier than others
Less waterproof than other models
The Arc'teryx Gamma LT has been one of our favorite softshell jackets for several years, exemplifying a standard of this category. With tried and true fabric that resists the weather, it gives the right amount of protection for a softshell material without being too bulky. Able to breathe well during mountain sports like hiking and climbing, we felt confident bringing this jacket with us on demanding climbs in alpine environments.
Arc'teryx garments are known for being expertly tailored, and the Gamma LT is no exception. This jacket offers one of the better fits in our review and is stylish enough that it can be used on the trails or on the way to work. Certain features, such as adjustable wrist cuffs, would make it even better, but we still recommend it as one of the best softshells you can buy. It earns our Editors Choice Award as the best overall softshell jacket.
Read review: Arc'teryx Gamma LT Hoody
Best Bang for the Buck
Outdoor Research Ferrosi Hooded
: 13 oz. | Number of pockets
Breathes very well
Does not restrict movement
Cuffs not adjustable
Below-average wet weather protection
The Outdoor Research Ferrosi Hooded Jacket is our Best Buy Award winner for yet another year. Despite receiving a brand new update, we still have so much confidence in this jacket that we heartily recommend it again as a rock-solid softshell that can keep out mild weather while still staying super breathable and durable in the face of abrasion.
It is not the most weatherproof, but the Ferrosi provides excellent 3 season protection from light precipitation and winds, making it a good choice for backpacking, alpine climbing, and mountain biking. A staple of the softshell category, this is one of the best deals that you can find.
Read review: Outdoor Research Ferrosi Hooded
Top Pick Award for Climbing
: 17 oz. | Number of pockets
Combines exceptional breathability with durability
Harness-friendly Napolean pocket layout
Hood feels tight
The Marmot ROM became a favorite among the testers for its fantastic climbing ability. Featuring Gore-Tex Windstopper fabric that covers the head and shoulders, it offers above-average weather protection where it is most needed while also utilizing proprietary Marmot M2 softshell fabric on the body, allowing it to remain breathable during more strenuous pitches.
The ROM is trim-fitting but still has room for layering. It also sports a fully-featured hood, wrist cuffs, and plenty of pockets to hold bars or extra gloves — or just to open up and dump some heat. Despite a slightly tight hood, it did so well during our testing period that we chose to award it our Top Pick for Climbing.
Read review: Marmot ROM
Top Pick Award for Ultralight Adventures
Mountain Hardwear Kor Preshell Hoody
: 4.5 oz. | Number of pockets
Very packable, can clip to harness
Hood feels tight
Not very weather-resistant
The Mountain Hardwear Kor Preshell Hoody is our Top Pick for Ultralight Adventures. It blows the competition out of the water when it comes to weight and packed size, making it a great option for those who are counting every ounce. It is wind-resistant and incredibly breathable, which allows it to be very useful as an outer layer during such aerobic activities as trail running, mountain biking, or fastpacking.
The weight savings does come with a bit of a penalty in terms of weather resistance and durability, but for the ultralight connoisseur who values breathability and some light protection from the elements, this jacket is hard to beat.
Read review: Mountain Hardwear Kor Preshell Hoody
Notable Performance in Wet Weather
: 17.5 oz. | Number of pockets
Excellent weather protection
Roomy for layering underneath
Durable fabric breathes well
Not as versatile as other models
The Patagonia Galvanized is a unique offering in this review, in that it is a hybrid softshell/hardshell combination. By using a proprietary H2No waterproof fabric that is stretch woven into the shell, Patagonia has made a breathable and mobile layer that sheds water like a rain jacket. It is hard to find such a featured jacket that not only repels wet weather but also breathes well. Because of this, we really like the Galvanized for ski touring and winter climbing, as the roomy fit allows for layering underneath.
This is one of the most expensive jackets in our review. It features high-end materials and will probably only appeal to a small segment of those looking for a very particular kind of jacket. It is excellent at what it does and worth the price tag, but most people will find their needs met by one of the many other high quality (and less weatherproof) models in this review.
Read review: Patagonia Galvanized
Our lead tester while out on a fast-paced jaunt, testing breathability of the award-winning Gamma LT.
Why You Should Trust Us
Full-time mountain guide and OutdoorGearLab Review Editor Ryan Huetter is the mastermind behind this review. After earning a degree in Outdoor Adventure Management from Western Washington University, Ryan relocated from the Pacific Northwest to California's Sierra Nevada. He is an internationally-licensed IFMGA mountain guide and has achieved many climbing ascents all over the world, including over 20 big wall routes in Yosemite and Fitz Roy in Patagonia. Softshell jackets are one of many pieces of gear that are a part of Ryan's daily life, whether he's spring skiing or needs a versatile layer for a climb.
Seeking the absolute best in available softshells starts with research into the market. Over 60 offerings were up for consideration after our first pass, which we subsequently narrowed to the strongest 11 models discussed here. Each round, we test for two months around OGL home territory in the Sierra on a variety of outings ranging from bike rides to climbs. We are able to evaluate all aspects of these jackets via extensive field testing, though we also supplement our real-world weather protection testing with a hose, to fully push these jackets to the limit. Overall, we're pleased to present this study, and we think you will find it a comprehensive guide to finding the best softshell for your needs.
Related: How We Tested Softshell Jackets
Analysis and Test Results
Our testers wear these softshell jackets in almost every conceivable weather condition throughout the year. We then correlate our real-world results with a set of predetermined metrics to analyze each jacket's performance and compile data with which to compare one model to another.
Related: Buying Advice for Softshell Jackets
The Patagonia Galvanized jacket is an excellent choice for funky weather, where the protection of a hardshell is warranted but the breathability of a softshell is necessary.
Each softshell jacket's functionality falls somewhere between the extremes of a waterproof/windproof layer and a fully breathable layer. You pay more for a model closer to the waterproof end of the spectrum than the breathable end. If you do need good weather protection, the Patagonia Galvanized (skiing emphasis) or Marmot ROM (climbing emphasis) are good options. Less expensive, yet scoring better than most due to its overall usefulness is the Outdoor Research Ferrosi. This one does well in the wind, but you'll have to step up to one of the higher-priced options for better water resistance.
Weather protection is the most important attribute of an outer layer, and so we give the most weight to scoring this metric. We evaluate a jacket's resistance to weather by utilizing them in harsh weather environments to see how they perform in the real world. Taking them out into inclement weather allows us to see how effective they are and also for what kind of duration they can resist rain, snow, and wind before they become saturated. We also use more objective tests such as a shower test to account for water permeability, and a fan test to simulate standing on an alpine peak while an icy north wind rakes over the ridge.
We tested these jackets in adverse, harsh weather, and placed an added emphasis on how well they performed when in wet conditions. Softshell jackets certainly have a limit to their water resistance, though, based on the reality that they are not made from a fully waterproof membrane. If liquid water is falling on you, it's a matter of time before these jackets go from being comfy and cozy to being heavy, waterlogged messes that are neither warm nor comfortable. The weather resistance of the softshells we tested varies. Some models are almost fully waterproof while others are barely wind resistant.
As an all-around performer, we love the Gamma LT for trips into the mountains as well as on local day hikes thanks to its weather protection when needed but good breathability when it's not.
Over the years, we've tested weather resistance in a myriad of conditions, from mountaineering in Alaska to ice and alpine climbing in Maine and New Hampshire. In our most recent update, we wore our test jackets in the high alpine during late-season conditions, climbing rock and ice routes in the High Sierra, and skiing during the cold beginnings of winter.
For those seeking a jacket for above-treeline adventures, we strongly recommend a hood. While some of the jackets we reviewed are excellent choices for aerobic activities during fair weather where a hood might be cumbersome or unneeded, these hoodless models do not inspire confidence in inclement conditions.
The weather protection on the ROM makes it great for climbing in wild weather.
While some hybrid softshells employ taped seams and waterproof membranes, these jackets tend to be very specialized and expensive. In this year's review we mostly feature jackets which use typical, DWR treated stretch softshell materials. The most waterproof model, the Galvanized, features fully waterproof H2No material, making it more like a hardshell-softshell hybrid that is better suited for nasty alpine conditions. For something less water-impervious but still impressively protective, the Arc'teryx Gamma MX is an excellent choice.
When the storm clouds start building, you want to make sure that your softshell can handle light snow and rain like the San Juan.
Breathability is the calling card and one of the most important benefits of a softshell jacket. It is the main reason to choose this type of layer over a waterproof jacket. The term breathability describes the ability of a material to transport moisture. Even if a waterproof jacket helps you stay dry from the rain, during high activity, our bodies can perspire two liters per hour! If you sweat that much while wearing a hardshell rain jacket (i.e. not breathable), you will certainly feel wet and clammy. If you sweat that much in a lightweight softshell, however, you will feel drier and much happier. When being active in marginal conditions, you often need to choose whether you want to be wet on the inside or wet on the outside.
Staying dry is also one of the biggest keys to staying comfortable and warm in cold climates since water transmits heat much faster than air. This fact is of critical importance in cold climates. You might be surprised that most cases of hypothermia occur in temperatures above freezing. When temperatures are lower, water freezes and it becomes harder for us to get wet and subsequently chilled. One great way to get chilled in the snow, however, is to get soaked in sweat by wearing too many clothes or clothes that aren't breathable enough. Once your cardio output declines, you will chill rapidly.
In the mountains, we don't always have the luxury of drying our baselayers out if we overheat and get wet from perspiration, so it's important to keep them as dry as possible with a breathable shell like the Gamma LT.
As you increase your output (i.e., your level of aerobic activity), having an outer layer that can breathe well becomes more and more necessary. For example, cross-country skiing and backcountry ski touring demand highly breathable jackets, but activities like moderate hiking and downhill skiing do not. Breathability is primarily determined by the presence or absence of a laminated membrane and/or a fleece liner, both of which decrease breathability compared to jackets that don't have layers or liners. Additionally, the thickness and weave of the fabric influence breathability; thin loose knit fabrics are the most breathable and thicker fleece insulated jackets are less breathable. Models like the Arc'teryx Gamma MX feature an additional fleece backing that improves the inherent warmth when sedentary in cooler temperatures --- but it doesn't improve ventilation.
More durable layers like the ROM may not breathe as well as the ultralight shells, but climbing is not as aerobic a sport so that is ok.
After every outing, we gathered breathability feedback from each tester. These scores are largely subjective and reflect our testers' personal opinions about the level of breathability of each jacket. We found the Ferrosi to be one of the most breathable jackets in our review. It also, no surprise, earns a really low weather resistance score — this tends to be the tradeoff. The Kor Preshell is the same — it's ultralight profile makes for exceptional breathability, but it's not the jacket you want to be caught wearing in a storm. However, the Marmot ROM and Gamma LT balance the two demands better. They both earn admirable breathability scores while still providing decent protection from the wind and falling snow.
Breathe easy in the light Kor Preshell when working hard on your adventure!
The right shell for you largely depends on the amount of sweat you generate while playing in the mountains. Our bodies vary, which means that some of us need more breathable jackets than others. A person that sweats more may feel stifled more quickly than someone who naturally stays dry, so keep that in mind when narrowing down your choice. We can provide insight, but your personal ecosystem will play a significant role in the type of layers you ultimately prefer. If you sweat a lot or frequently engage in highly aerobic activities, you'll love the excellent breathability of a jacket like the Kor Preshell, OR Ferrosi, or Rab Torque.
Even in this high desert environment, we felt that the Ferrosi was highly breathable.
If you love the feeling of being restricted by a starchy, rented tuxedo, then perhaps you should disregard our feelings on mobility. But most folks, whether they are at the cutting-edge of mountain athletics or just want to get out for an afternoon stroll, want to have the freedom of movement provided by synthetic softshell fabrics. These materials are stretch woven, meaning that they have, on average, between 5% and 15% elastic fiber spun into the nylon. This makes them highly mobile, a very important and necessary attribute when you are reaching for the next climbing hold, pedaling your heart out up the local singletrack, or running the trails.
Often, product manufacturers will describe the intended fit of a garment with descriptors such as "standard," "trim," or "athletic." This can help you in selecting the right product since an athletic fitting jacket will likely be more form-fitting and not allow for as much layering underneath.
The summit block of Thunderbolt Peak requires lots of mobility (and a good deal of friction). The Torque is well-suited for the task.
Our mobility metric assesses each product's overall comfort during aerobic activities. We take into consideration whether it rides up when lifting the arms, if the shoulders allow for full rotation, and whether you can layer underneath without feeling restricted. During our testing, we not only study the design of each product's arms and shoulders but also how they perform during all our day-to-day outdoor activities.
If a jacket fits you perfectly, the wrist cuffs should not fall when you reach up, and the hem should stay below your waist.
Some of our tested jackets are mobile enough in the body for activities like skiing, but when out ice climbing, they would either pull out of a harness when reaching up, or the cuff would fall out from under gloves, exposing the wrists to the cold and snow. Longer wrists and underarm gussets are both designed to help counter this problem. Another factor that has a significant influence on mobility is stretch. Stretch allows a model to fit snugly without impairing movement. Another benefit to stretch materials is that they are less noisy than windproof fabrics.
Overall, the OR Ferrosi is the most mobile contender in our review. It is the only model that allows full mobility without the cuffs falling or hem rising. Surprisingly, it even beat out models made with stretchier materials, likely due to the more generous cut that also allows for layering underneath with a fleece baselayer.
The stretchy Ferrosi is one of our top choices for rock climbing movement but is super mobile in lots of other sports too.
Weight and packed size can be essential attributes, especially on long trips or anytime you have to put a jacket in your pack. We don't place as much of an emphasis on the weight of these products as we do on many other types of outdoor gear. The reason for this is that this style of jacket is specifically designed to be breathable enough that it can be worn all day without having to throw it into a pack.
Niche models such as the Kor Preshell astonished reviewers, as the first sub-5 ounce softshell jacket to be featured in our review. This makes it about half the weight of the next lightest softshell, though that weight savings does come with a durability penalty.
Light and packable, the Kor Preshell barely registers on our scale.
It could be argued that when you are wearing a jacket, you do not notice its weight as much, and there is truth to this. Having to haul around a lightweight jacket in your pack while you do not need it certainly is less of a chore than with a heavier model. Still, weight does factor into a jacket's overall performance in that the heavier it is, the less mobile it is likely to be, and the bulkier the material is going to be. Heavyweight softshell fabrics do not breathe as well given the thicker material and inclusion of a fleece backing. All of these softshells have their place, though — heavier shells are ideal in cold winter months or slower activities, and lightweight models are best for spring through fall, and during aerobic activity.
When traveling deep into the backcountry, weight will be more of a concern to you than if you were only using your jacket for hikes close to a trailhead.
Versatility describes the utility that a jacket has over a range of different applications. Here we assess the quality and quantity of each jacket's features as they contribute to its specific end-use. We look at the design of handwarmer pockets, chest pockets, zippers, zipper pulls, pit zips, interior pockets, hoods, thumb loops, and adjustment cords. Well-designed features are critical for overall comfort, ease of use, and storage. Whether you're hoping to stash an entire day's worth of energy bars into your chest pocket or tote around your wallet and keys, great features can make your life easier. To rate each product in this metric, we included the feedback from the dozen or so people that contributed to testing.
Hoods are one of our favorite things, especially on softshells. If you're strolling about in the hills and it starts to snow, you are going to need something on your head to keep you from getting soaked. If you don't have a hood on your softshell, you're going to need some other layer to cover your head be it an insulated jacket, rain jacket, or helmet.
Hoodless softshells are less versatile but still work well in many instances. If you are carrying a rain jacket (which will have a hood) to put on over your softshell, you might be entirely comfortable without a hood. For cross-country skiing, we rarely put on a hood and instead prefer a toque or balaclava. Finally, if you're only cruising around town, hoodless models can often be more stylish.
Earning your turns? This calls for a softshell jacket that can breathe well on the up but still offer weather protection. The San Juan does a great job at this.
Pocket design is also essential. For climbing and backpacking, Napolean style chest pockets are best, like on the Torque, since they won't get in the way of your harness or hip belt. Meanwhile, handwarmer pockets are best for around town and general use. Fleece-lined pockets can add extra comfort and coziness, but can also add unnecessary weight and warmth. All of the pockets in this review have zippered closures; without this, snow and water can enter the pocket and make you wet. If you plan on using your jacket with big gloves on, you'll want to look for big zipper pulls that can be easily manipulated.
In another vein, we feel that it's important that you look good in a jacket you spend a lot of money on, especially one that also works well around town. Because of this, we leveraged our testers' perception of aesthetic appeal as part of the versatility score. In our opinion, simple exteriors look better than complex multi-color patterns. For around town, our testers prefer basic, handsome jackets like the Gamma MX or Gamma LT. It's also important here to consider the fit of your jacket. Often you will pay more for expert tailoring, but it really can make all the difference when it comes to fit, both for technical AND aesthetic reasons.
Not only is it a good shell for the mountains, but the Gamma MX is stylish enough to wear on a popular walk in our local park.
Best for Specific Applications
Arc'teryx Gamma LT
The North Face Apex Bionic 2
Black Diamond Dawn Patrol
Most versatile: Arc'teryx Gamma LT
Softshell jackets are one of our most cherished pieces of outdoor clothing. They stretch, allowing for mobility when engaging in active mountain sports, but they also protect us from the weather. Unlike hard shells, these layers breathe, but they also provide us with water and wind resistance, making them a very versatile outer layer. Depending on your specific needs you may find a single jacket that will work well for you in this review, such as our Editors Choice winner, the Gamma LT, but some of the jackets that we have tested work so well in certain applications that we have awarded them Top Pick Awards for specialized uses. We hope that you enjoyed reading our thorough review and that you find your perfect softshell jacket companion!
Here's a perfect day for a softshell: cold temps, a cool breeze, and lots of activity.