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CAMP USA 11mm Express Dyneema Sling Review

A pretty decent sling that we wish was a couple dollars cheaper
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Price:  $10 List | $9.95 at Amazon
Pros:  Knots come untied easily, soft against the skin
Cons:  Comparatively heavy, comparatively bulky, expensive
Manufacturer:   CAMP USA
By Andy Wellman ⋅ Senior Review Editor  ⋅  Apr 11, 2019
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72
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#7 of 12
  • Handle - 25% 8
  • Knot Test - 25% 8
  • Alpine Quickdraw Test - 20% 7
  • Weight - 15% 6
  • Bulk - 15% 6

Our Verdict

The Camp USA 11m Express Dyneema Runner is remarkable in the fact that it performed the absolute best in our knot test. This means that tying knots into this sling is not only easy, but due to its thick and stiff nature, they don't tend to cinch down as tightly as knots in other slings do, enabling you to far more easily untie them in a hurry when you leave the belay. For this attribute alone we feel they are an excellent choice in their longer available options (120cm and 240cm) for use as anchor slings to equalize multiple pieces. As a double-length runner they perform just fine, but are a bit more expensive than most of the others tested here.


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Overall Score Sort Icon
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Star Rating
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Pros Knots come untied easily, soft against the skinLow weight, very thin, handles great, affordableVery light, low bulk, easy to manipulate, very small bar tackLight weight, low bulk, knots untie relatively easily, affordableLow price, light weight despite width, small bar tack
Cons Comparatively heavy, comparatively bulky, expensiveWeighted knots harder to untie than thicker slingsHigh price, harder than some to untie knotsNot as soft a handle as other top scorersAbrasive edges, wide for the weight
Bottom Line A pretty decent sling that we wish was a couple dollars cheaperThe best climbing sling due to its great handle and low weight and width.A top-notch sling at a top-shelf priceA fantastic lightweight flat sling that is also affordableA solid sling at a fantastic price
Rating Categories 11mm Express Dyneema Sling Mammut Contact Dyneema Petzl Pur'Anneau Sling Black Diamond Dynex Runner Trango Low Bulk 11mm Sling
Handle (25%)
10
0
8
10
0
9
10
0
8
10
0
7
10
0
7
Knot Test (25%)
10
0
8
10
0
5
10
0
6
10
0
7
10
0
7
Alpine Quickdraw Test (20%)
10
0
7
10
0
10
10
0
9
10
0
8
10
0
8
Weight (15%)
10
0
6
10
0
10
10
0
10
10
0
9
10
0
9
Bulk (15%)
10
0
6
10
0
10
10
0
9
10
0
9
10
0
7
Specs 11mm Express... Mammut Contact... Petzl Pur'Anneau... Black Diamond... Trango Low Bulk...
Type of Fiber Dyneema Dyneema High-Modulus Polyethalene Dynex Dyneema
Measured weight 30g 19g 19g 20g 20g
Width Tested 11mm 8mm 10mm 10mm 11mm
Length Tested 60cm 60cm 60cm 60cm 60cm
Strength 22Kn 22Kn 22Kn 22Kn 22Kn
Widths Available 11mm 8mm 10mm 10mm 11mm
Lengths Available 60cm; 120cm; 240cm 60cm; 120cm 60cm; 120cm; 180cm 30cm; 60cm; 120cm; 240cm 30cm; 60cm; 120cm

Our Analysis and Test Results

The sling that the Camp USA 11mm Express Dyneema Sling compares most favorably toward is the Metolius Open Loop Sling, which we awarded our Top Pick for Anchor Building. That award could conceivably have also gone to this sling, although in the end its added cost makes it hard to justify buying it for the same performance. Like the Open Loop Sling, we are thrilled with how easy it is to untie knots once they have been weighted, something that genuinely cannot be said at all about most slings, especially those that are wider, like the Black Diamond Nylon Sewn Runner, or far thinner, like our Editors' Choice winning Mammut Contact Sling. We think this sling handles nicer and feels better against the skin than the Open Loop Sling, a compelling reason to choose it, despite the small additional expense.

Performance Comparison


A double length sling  like the Camp USA 11mm shown here  can be used to quickly equalize two pieces without a knot by adding a half twist in the middle where you clip the locking carabiner. Note: failing to add this half twist means that the anchor could fail if one of the protection pieces does.
A double length sling, like the Camp USA 11mm shown here, can be used to quickly equalize two pieces without a knot by adding a half twist in the middle where you clip the locking carabiner. Note: failing to add this half twist means that the anchor could fail if one of the protection pieces does.

Handle


Much like the Petzl Pur'Anneau Sling, this one is perfectly flat, without any sort of added bulk in the middle or ovular shape. It is made of Dyneema, so feels silky smooth to the touch, and the edges, which don't taper to a point but stay squared off, are also very smooth, without any of the weird nylon burrs that are found on the edges of a sling such as the Trango Low Bulk 11 Sling. It is thicker and stiffer than most, but this is what allows it to not cinch down as tightly. One minor downside is that the bar tack is quite large, and very stiff, without any desire to bend or flex.

This sling is soft and supple against the skin  without any nylon burrs on its edges. It is also thicker and stiffer than most slings  with a relatively long bar tack.
This sling is soft and supple against the skin, without any nylon burrs on its edges. It is also thicker and stiffer than most slings, with a relatively long bar tack.

Knot Test


This stiff, square shape to this sling makes it somewhat of a challenge to tie knots quickly without any twists involved. That said, we find that even when a twist works its way into the knot, the knot is not compromised in its ability to stay tied, so we generally prefer to tie them as quickly as possible, and not concern ourselves with twisting. Since it is so stiff, knots do not cinch down as tightly as with some other more supple slings, such as the Pur'Anneau or the Sterling Dyneema Sling, and its very slippery Dyneema fibers allow it to easily be loosened after weighting. This sling scored the highest marks for this metric, and it is a main reason we would highly recommend it for anchor building, where it is much more common to tie knots to help equalize multiple pieces.

The stiffness of this 11mm wide sling makes it ever so slightly harder to tie knots quickly  although it also means that the knots don't cinch down as tightly  as you can see with this clove hitch.
The stiffness of this 11mm wide sling makes it ever so slightly harder to tie knots quickly, although it also means that the knots don't cinch down as tightly, as you can see with this clove hitch.

This figure-eight knot doesn't cinch down as tight as many others due to the stiffness  and width  of this sling. It was among the very easiest to untie once it had been weighted  a strong recommendation for using it as an anchor equalizing tool.
This figure-eight knot doesn't cinch down as tight as many others due to the stiffness, and width, of this sling. It was among the very easiest to untie once it had been weighted, a strong recommendation for using it as an anchor equalizing tool.

Alpine Quickdraw Test


When tripling up a sling to make an alpine quickdraw, any added friction makes it harder to pull the two carabiners apart for proper equalization. With this sling, we found that not only is this an issue when the long, stiff bar tack happens to fall along the carabiner, but it is also slightly harder in general due to the added stiffness inherent in this relatively thick sling. Therefore, it is not by any means the easiest sling to triple up in this way (although we still managed to do so just fine). If you want the easiest slings for carrying on the harness as alpine quickdraws, we would recommend checking out the Mammut Contact Sling.

With a relatively long bar tack  there was more of a propensity for it to end up against the biner than ones with a shorter bar tack  which inhibits the sling from equalizing perfectly in alpine quickdraw mode.
With a relatively long bar tack, there was more of a propensity for it to end up against the biner than ones with a shorter bar tack, which inhibits the sling from equalizing perfectly in alpine quickdraw mode.

Weight


For this review we tested the 60cm, double-length runner version of this sling and weighed it on our independent scale at 30g. While this isn't exactly heavy, compared to the competition it is the heaviest Dyneema sling that we tested, with only Nylon slings, which are required to meet the same strength requirements, and generally need far more material in order to do so, weighing in heavier. If light is right in your world, then this likely isn't the sling for you.

Weighing 30g  this is one of the heaviest Dyneema slings that we tested.
Weighing 30g, this is one of the heaviest Dyneema slings that we tested.

Bulk


As one may expect having read about the added weight, this sling is also more bulky than most. It is 11mm wide, making it one of the wider Dyneema offerings, and is also thicker all the way through than the Trango Low Bulk 11 Sling. It is roughly comparable in bulk to the Metolius Open Loop Sling, both of which are the same width. Once again, if the lowest profile is your jam, we would recommend looking toward the Mammut Contact Sling.

Showing the bulk of the three 11mm wide slings in the middle  compared to the widest and thinnest slings in the review. Blue and white Camp USA 11mm  green and white Metolius Open Loop  and orange and white Trango Low Bulk. On the top for comparison is the Sterling Nylon (17mm) and on the bottom is the Mammut Contact (8mm).
Showing the bulk of the three 11mm wide slings in the middle, compared to the widest and thinnest slings in the review. Blue and white Camp USA 11mm, green and white Metolius Open Loop, and orange and white Trango Low Bulk. On the top for comparison is the Sterling Nylon (17mm) and on the bottom is the Mammut Contact (8mm).

Best Applications


This sling is ideal in its longer lengths for use equalizing multiple pieces at anchors. In its double-length version it works just fine for extending pieces of protection, although it is neither the lightest or lowest profile option for doing so.

Kevin demonstrating how its done -- creating an alpine quickdraw out of the Camp USA 11mm sling  while racking up for an ascent of Zebra-Zion at Smith Rock.
Kevin demonstrating how its done -- creating an alpine quickdraw out of the Camp USA 11mm sling, while racking up for an ascent of Zebra-Zion at Smith Rock.

Value


Retail price for this sling is $10, which is by no means the most expensive option for a Dyneema runner, but it is also a couple dollars more expensive than the least. Since there are higher performing options for less money available, we don't think it offers the best value.

Some routes  especially at Red Rocks  require far more slings and quickdraws than cams and stoppers. For Levitation 29 we carried 20 slings and draws and only four cams.
Some routes, especially at Red Rocks, require far more slings and quickdraws than cams and stoppers. For Levitation 29 we carried 20 slings and draws and only four cams.

Conclusion


The Camp USA 11mm Express Dyneema Runner performs well regardless of the circumstances, but is neither the most affordable, nor the lightest, least bulky, or demonstrating the least amount of friction during use. While it does handle nicely, and provide an excellent option for use at anchors, it would not be our first recommendation for a double-length runner.


Andy Wellman