Black Diamond Dynex Runner Review
Cons: Not as soft a handle as other top scorers
Manufacturer: Black Diamond
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Black Diamond Dynex Runner
$8.95 at REI
$8.95 at REI
|$10.50 at REI|
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$10.00 at Amazon
|Check Price at REI|
|Pros||Light weight, low bulk, knots untie relatively easily, affordable||Low weight, very thin, handles great, affordable||Low price, light weight despite width, small bar tack||Knots come untied easily, soft against the skin||Most affordable, handles great, elastic stretch properties when catching a fall|
|Cons||Not as soft a handle as other top scorers||Weighted knots harder to untie than thicker slings||Abrasive edges, wide for the weight||Comparatively heavy, comparatively bulky, expensive||Heavy, bulky, lots of friction in alpine quickdraws|
|Bottom Line||A fantastic lightweight flat sling that is also affordable||The best climbing sling due to its great handle and low weight and width||A solid sling at a fantastic price||A pretty decent sling that we wish was a couple dollars cheaper||The best option for traditional climbers who want to save some money|
|Rating Categories||Black Diamond Dynex...||Mammut Contact Dyneema||Trango Low Bulk 11m...||CAMP USA 11mm Expre...||Black Diamond Nylon...|
|Knot Test (25%)|
|Alpine Quickdraw Test (20%)|
|Specs||Black Diamond Dynex...||Mammut Contact Dyneema||Trango Low Bulk 11m...||CAMP USA 11mm Expre...||Black Diamond Nylon...|
|Type of Fiber||Dynex||Dyneema||Dyneema||Dyneema||Nylon|
|Lengths Available||30cm; 60cm; 120cm; 240cm||60cm; 120cm||30cm; 60cm; 120cm||60cm; 120cm; 240cm||30cm; 60cm; 120cm; 240cm|
Our Analysis and Test Results
With a width of 10mm and weighing a mere 20g, this sling compares very favorably to the Petzl Pur'Anneau Sling. The main difference between the two is that this sling is not quite as flat and has rougher edges, making the handle not quite as nice but also contributing to higher performance when it comes to untying weighted knots easily. Despite having a slightly lower score, we would sooner recommend the Dynex Sewn Runner because it comes at a more reasonable cost, cheaper at retail prices than the Pur'Anneau Sling. This sling comes in four different lengths, and while we tested the double-length (60cm) version, which is ideal for use on lead to extend protection pieces, either the 120cm or 240cm versions would be solid choices for use in anchor building.
The BD Dynex Sewn Runner, like the other polyethylene slings in this review, is smooth and slippery to the touch. It is not totally flat, but bulges a bit in the middle so that it is slightly ovular in shape, although it is made of flat webbing that is not tubular. Like the Trango Low Bulk 11 Sling, and most of the others made of Dyneema, it has woven Nylon fibers around the edges, in this case dyed yellow. The edges feel slightly rough and more abrasive than the super smooth edges on the Pur'Anneau Sling, and while this wouldn't be reason enough for us to not recommend it, by any means, this roughness simply helps demarcate it for this metric. In short, it is smooth and supple, although a bit rougher on the edges than those with the best handle.
While it isn't the absolute easiest Dyneema sling to untie once a figure-eight knot has been weighted, an honor that goes to the Metolius Open Loop Sling, its slippery fibers are still far easier to untie weighted knots than either the super skinny Mammut Contact Sling, or the much fatter and higher friction Black Diamond Nylon Sewn Runner. Its ability to release knots relatively quickly and easily makes this sling quite versatile, especially when considering its use for equalizing multiple pieces at anchors.
Alpine Quickdraw Test
While it isn't by any means the longest or largest bar tack that we encountered in this review, the bar tack on this sling is about 25% longer than the similar Petzl Pur'Anneau Sling. This can occasionally come into play when tripling up a sling into an alpine quickdraw, as it means that the bar tack is more likely to end up resting over the edge of the carabiner, which leads to difficulty equalizing it into a short quickdraw. As such a low bulk and narrow sling, we found it very easy to pull to extension.
We tested the 60cm double-length version of this sling and weighed it at 20g, tied with the Trango Low Bulk 11 Sling as the second lightest of all that we have tested. It is only one gram heavier than the two lightest slings, the Mammut Contact Sling and the Petzl Pur'Anneau Sling. As one of the lightest slings available, this is a great choice for long multi-pitch routes and big approaches.
At a mere 10mm wide, this is one of the lowest bulk slings you can buy. It is shaped like an oval, with the Dynex fibers in the middle feeling thicker and fatter than the Nylon fibers on the edges, which taper down. This taper allows it to be slightly lower profile than the similarly wide, but fatter Sterling Dyneema Sling.
Due to its low weight and low profile, this is one of the best choices as a double-length sling for use while leading. Because it is relatively easy to untie knots that have been weighted on this sling, it is also a good choice for use in building equalized anchors. It is truly one of the most versatile slings in this review.
Retail price for this sling is around $10, roughly the exact same price as our Editors' Choice winning Mammut Contact Sling, and somewhere near the middle in the range of Dyneema fiber slings. Since it is one of the highest scorers and is very versatile, we think this is a fair price, and presents great value.
The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is an excellent sling that is versatile enough to be used for either anchor building or extending pieces on lead. With a reasonable price tag, we think it is a good value that should be a top choice for anyone looking to buy a new selection of slings.
— Andy Wellman
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