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Scarpa Furia S Review

An aggressive shoe made for steep, bouldery climbing.
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Price:  $200 List | $199.95 at Backcountry
Compare prices at 2 resellers
Pros:  Soft, great for steep climbing
Cons:  Expensive, specific, run small, difficult to break in
Manufacturer:   Scarpa
By Jane Jackson ⋅ Senior Review Editor  ⋅  Jun 6, 2019
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71
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#11 of 18
  • Comfort - 25% 5
  • Sensitivity - 25% 9
  • Edging - 15% 7
  • Cracks - 15% 5
  • Pockets - 15% 9
  • Ease of Use - 5% 9

Our Verdict

The Scarpa Furia is an incredibly soft, yet aggressively shaped shoe designed for steep, bouldery climbing. These shoes are at home on an overhanging boulder problem where toe hooks, heel hooks, and knee bars are the name of the game. The Furias are incredibly soft — more so than both the La Sportiva Skwama and the La Sportiva Futura. On vertical to low angle terrain, the Furias have a tough time, but once the wall gets steep, these shoes will keep you on the wall. With a hefty price tag of $200, the Furia is undoubtedly an investment.


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Scarpa Furia S
Awards  Editors' Choice Award   Top Pick Award 
Price $199.95 at Backcountry
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Overall Score Sort Icon
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Star Rating
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Pros Soft, great for steep climbingSensitive, great for edging, supportive, comfortable, versatileComfortable, high performance, sticky rubber, easy to put on, good in cracks, versatileComfortable, extremely sensitive, great for smearing and steep climbing, easy to get on and offGood for steep climbing, break in well, conforms to foot shape, comfortable, aggressive shape
Cons Expensive, specific, run small, difficult to break inExpensiveStretch out quickly, costly, lack supportExpensive, No-Edge technology could be an acquired tasteExpensive, lacks versatility
Bottom Line An aggressive shoe made for steep, bouldery climbing.The Kataki wins our Editors' Choice Award for their combination of comfort, sensitivity, and edging prowess.The Skwama are impressive in many realms, combining comfort with a high performance fit.If you let them, they may revolutionize your footwork; they'll take some getting used to, but are top notch for steep climbing.The Solution gets our Top Pick for steep climbing and bouldering for their aggressive shape, precision, and comfortable design.
Rating Categories Scarpa Furia S La Sportiva Kataki - Women's La Sportiva Skwama - Women's La Sportiva Futura - Women's Solution
Comfort (25%)
10
0
5
10
0
9
10
0
9
10
0
9
10
0
8
Sensitivity (25%)
10
0
9
10
0
10
10
0
9
10
0
10
10
0
9
Edging (15%)
10
0
7
10
0
10
10
0
7
10
0
7
10
0
7
Cracks (15%)
10
0
5
10
0
7
10
0
9
10
0
5
10
0
7
Pockets (15%)
10
0
9
10
0
9
10
0
10
10
0
10
10
0
10
Ease Of Use (5%)
10
0
9
10
0
8
10
0
9
10
0
9
10
0
9
Specs Scarpa Furia S La Sportiva Kataki... La Sportiva Skwama... La Sportiva Futura... Solution
Style Velcro Lace Velcro Velcro Velcro
Weight (Per Pair, size 37) .75 lb 1.08 lb 1.00 lb .91 lb 1.06 lb
Width Options Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular
Fit High Asymmetry Asymmetrical Asymmetrical High Asymmetry Asymmetrical
Upper Microsuede Suede leather microfiber Leather/Microfiber Leather/ Synthetic Leather/Lorica
Lining Microsuede Pacific Unlined Unlined HF (heel and toe box only)
Sole Rubber Vibram XSGrip2 Vibram XS Grip2 Vibram XS Grip2 Vibram XSGrip2 Vibram XS Grip2

Our Analysis and Test Results

The Furias are soft, downturned, and covered in sticky rubber. These shoes will help you toe hook like a bat but fall short on vertical terrain.

Performance Comparison


The Furia's are far more comfortable in this overhanging limestone cave than we are!
The Furia's are far more comfortable in this overhanging limestone cave than we are!

Comfort


Many of the ladies who wore the Scarpa Furia during our testing period had issues with the overall fit. Those with low-volume feet found gaps and extra fabric on the top of the foot, while our wider-footed tester found these shoes to be a challenge to get on and break in. The excessive rubber on top of the toe box is great for heel hooking but doesn't allow for much stretch during the break-in period. Just as their use is fairly specific, it seems like the Furia's fit is as well. The La Sportiva Solution has a similar design but broke in to be much more comfortable (while still delivering on performance).

Shown above is an early attempt at putting on the terribly tight Scarpa Furias. Beware! These shoes run quite small!
Shown above is an early attempt at putting on the terribly tight Scarpa Furias. Beware! These shoes run quite small!

Sensitivity


The softness of the Furia makes it a fairly sensitive shoe. With the same Vibram XS Grip2 rubber that is almost universal across the women's models we tested this season, the Furia inspires confidence on the smallest of smears. Their aggressively downturned shape makes them more effective on steep terrain than on slabs and dime edges, especially since the shoe is so soft overall. Their shape is similar to the La Sportiva Futura - and the Furias are comparable to the Futura in terms of sensitivity. While the Futuras can hold their own on vertical terrain, the Furia was a bit too aggressive in shape to feel footholds on moderate terrain.

The Furias are some of the most sensitive shoes we tested. Their soft midsoles melt into tiny features on this highly featured limestone wall.
The Furias are some of the most sensitive shoes we tested. Their soft midsoles melt into tiny features on this highly featured limestone wall.

Edging


With an incredibly soft midsole and barely any support underfoot - beyond the aggressive shape of the shoe - the Furia is not our first pick when it comes to technical edging. Their downturned shape makes it hard to engage flat footholds or smear on slabby terrain. The La Sportiva Solution is a better bet for an aggressive shoe that can also perform fairly well in vertical terrain. The Solutions are soft, yet still have the Sportiva P3 Platform that allows for a bit more support and stability underfoot on vertical to low-angle terrain.

Better on overhanging terrain  the Scapra Furias were not our top pick for edging.
Better on overhanging terrain, the Scapra Furias were not our top pick for edging.

Crack Climbing


With one look at the Furias, most climbers would guess that crack climbing is not exactly their strong suit. With a talon-like shape, thy elicit a shudder at any Indian Creek crag, where blown out, floppy Five Ten Moccasyms are the name of the game. Though they are soft, the overall shape is just not designed for repetitive jamming, and your feet will probably complain if you try to climb splitter cracks. With such a hefty price tag, the Furia is better saved for your next trip to Kalymnos or Hueco Tanks.

Pockets


Much like the La Sportiva Futura or the La Sportiva Solution, the Furia is made for steep pockets, as it excels for toe and heel hooks, as well as precision foot placement. Their downturned shape practically hooks onto the edge of pockets, no matter how shallow they may be, while the fairly narrow toe box allows the Furia to fit into tiny pockets that a bulkier shoe, like the Scarpa Vapor V, cannot.

Psyching up with the Furias as we prepare to rap into the Verdon Gorge - the mecca for pocket climbing!
Psyching up with the Furias as we prepare to rap into the Verdon Gorge - the mecca for pocket climbing!

Ease of Use


The closure system on the Furia consists of one Velcro strap that tightens across the top of the foot and is easy to use. However, the shoes get dinged in this metric due to the difficulties we had breaking them in. The rubber that encases (almost) the entire shoe makes it difficult to get them on at first and even harder to break in. Though tight, the La Sportiva Futura was much easier to break in because their leather and synthetic uppers allowed for some stretch.

The single Velcro strap makes these easy to tighten down. The rubber all over the top makes them hard to break in.
The single Velcro strap makes these easy to tighten down. The rubber all over the top makes them hard to break in.

Best Application


With a high price tag and a fairly specific design, the Scarpa Furia should not be your first climbing shoe, as they lack versatility and are designed with performance in mind. If you are looking for an aggressive shoe to tackle your next overhanging mega-proj, the Furia might be the key to success.

Value


A whopping $200, the Furias are some of the most expensive shoes on the market, as they are top-end climbing shoes that are designed to perform. If you do decide to throw down for a pair of these, make sure they fit your foot and climbing style.

Steep climbing is the name of the game for the Scarpa Furias.
Steep climbing is the name of the game for the Scarpa Furias.

Conclusion


When it comes to climbing style, these technical beasts are a one trick pony. High performance in the steeps means the Furias do not exactly shine on lower angle terrain where edging and smearing are required. Their hefty price tag also makes them a bit of a commitment, so we would only recommend these to experienced sport climbers who know what they are getting into.


Jane Jackson