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Hands-on Gear Review
Five Ten Siren Review
Cons: Too thick in toe, not very precise
Weight (Per Pair, size 39): 6.4 oz (size 9)
Fit: Low Asymmetry
Manufacturer: Five Ten
The Five Ten Siren is an all-around climbing shoe that has the option of a regular lace system or a speed lace system and it has a breathable mesh upper. It is not the most precise or aggressive climbing shoe, but fits comfortably and can be worn for longer periods of time. If you are looking for a do-anything shoe that is less expensive, check out the Evolv Elektra or the La Sportiva Tarantulace - Women's. If you want something more aggressive or precise, check out the Editors' Choice-winning La Sportiva Miura.
RELATED REVIEW: The 11 Best Climbing Shoes For Women
Our Analysis and Hands-on Test Results
With a recent color change, the actual design of the Siren has not changed. The older version was blue and white, and the new version comes in a shade called Merlot. This is a popular, comfortable shoe that is versatile enough for all-around climbing.
The upper on the Siren is made up perforated mesh which allows them to breathe slightly better than most other climbing shoes that are made of leather. They are not very downturned, and the flatter fit is comfortable for longer wear.
Sensitivity and Edging
There is a little too much bulk in the toe of these shoes. On one hand, they are stiff and strong at edging, but on the other hand, the toe lacks sensation, which made them less precise than desired. We would rather have a more precise and sensitive toe like the feeling in the La Sportiva Katana - Women's or the Five Ten Anasazi LV - Women's.
The lack of sensitivity in the toe makes these shoes not the best at smearing. With Stealth XX rubber, they can still stick to a frictiony surface, but they don't feel as secure while doing so as some of the other shoes in this review.
The flat fit of these shoes allows them to fit comfortably into cracks and makes for pleasant foot jamming. Our only concern is that with frequent scuffing inside cracks, the upper may begin to shred prematurely.
The Siren does not have any downturn to its shape, so it doesn't give you any extra power in the pockets. The bulky toe can still hold on to pockets decently well, but other shoes such as the La Sportiva Solution - Women's feel like they were made to latch into pockets.
Ease of Use
This shoe comes in the box with two kinds of laces: elastic power cord for a speed lace and regular laces. We tested the shoe with both options. We found the speed lace to be too long, so we trimmed them after threading them through the eyelets. This lace style does help the speed in putting on the shoes by a couple seconds, but then it felt like the shoe was never tight enough while climbing, it was always a bit too stretchy feeling. The regular laces feel much more secure even though they require a few extra seconds when putting them on. It is a clever feature to allow the option of different lacing systems when you buy these shoes, and allows for a more custom fit.
The Siren is a great all-around shoe for any kind of climbing. If you don't climb that often or only want one pair of climbing shoes, these are the kind that are versatile enough to climb anything. They are comfortable enough for standing around at the gym or wearing all day on a multi-pitch route, but they can be used on a day at the sport crag as well, though are not as aggressive as the La Sportiva Solution - Women's for the steep stuff.
Other than our two Best Buy award contenders, which both ring in around $80, this is the next least expensive shoe. At $125 dollars, these shoes are on the lower end of the price spectrum, but anything over $100 seems like a big investment. These could be the perfect option for someone ready for higher performance shoe than you can get for $80, but who still isn't willing to shell out $150+ for a more aggressive model. We don't think the uppers on these shoes are incredibly durable, so they might not last as long as all-leather shoes like the La Sportiva Katana - Women's, which is the next closest alternative we would recommend.
The Siren is a comfortable, affordable, versatile shoe, but it is not our favorite performer. If you are in the market for an all-around shoe, we recommend something that you can grow into and can help you improve your footwork, such as the La Sportiva Miura - Women's, which is more agile and precise.
— McKenzie Long
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