The Five Ten Hiangle is the narrow-footed boulderer/sport climber's shoe. The shoe is soft in the midsole, with a single Velcro strap and a narrow opening, which makes the hard to get on, especially if you happen to have wide feet. The soles are super sticky, making them great for smearing and toeing in on steep terrain. Though they are narrow overall, the toe is fairly rounded, which makes the shoe feel like it lacks precision on pockets and finger cracks. If steep climbing in a soft shoe is what you are after, the Hiangles might be the right choice. If sized right, these could also work well as a gym shoe, since they are soft, yet still aggressively shaped.
Five Ten Hiangle - Women's Review
Compare prices at 3 resellers Pros: Sensitive, sticky rubber soles, reasonable price tag for design
Cons: Uncomfortable heel cup, hard to get on
Manufacturer: Adidas Five Ten
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|Pros||Sensitive, sticky rubber soles, reasonable price tag for design||Sensitive, great for edging, supportive, comfortable, versatile||Comfortable, high performance, sticky rubber, easy to put on, good in cracks, versatile||Comfortable, extremely sensitive, great for smearing and steep climbing, easy to get on and off||Good for steep climbing, break in well, conforms to foot shape, comfortable, aggressive shape|
|Cons||Uncomfortable heel cup, hard to get on||Expensive||Stretch out quickly, costly, lack support||Expensive, No-Edge technology could be an acquired taste||Expensive, lacks versatility|
|Bottom Line||These narrow slippers excel on smears and steep climbing, making them a good option for clipping bolts outside or in the gym.||The Kataki wins our Editors' Choice Award for their combination of comfort, sensitivity, and edging prowess.||The Skwama are impressive in many realms, combining comfort with a high performance fit.||If you let them, they may revolutionize your footwork; they'll take some getting used to, but are top notch for steep climbing.||The Solution gets our Top Pick for steep climbing and bouldering for their aggressive shape, precision, and comfortable design.|
|Rating Categories||Five Ten Hiangle - Women's||La Sportiva Kataki - Women's||La Sportiva Skwama - Women's||La Sportiva Futura - Women's||Solution|
|Ease Of Use (5%)|
|Total Scores (%)|
|Specs||Five Ten Hiangle -...||La Sportiva Kataki...||La Sportiva Skwama...||La Sportiva Futura...||Solution|
|Weight (Per Pair, size 37)||.94 lb||1.08 lb||1.00 lb||.91 lb||1.06 lb|
|Upper||Leather||Suede leather microfiber||Leather/Microfiber||Leather/ Synthetic||Leather/Lorica|
|Lining||Unlined||Pacific||Unlined||Unlined||HF (heel and toe box only)|
|Sole Rubber||Stealth C4||Vibram XS Grip2||Vibram XS Grip2||Vibram XSGrip2||Vibram XS Grip2|
Our Analysis and Test Results
Marketed as one of Five Ten's most comfortable, aggressively shaped shoes, the Hiangle is meant to be worn through multi-hour gym sessions and all-day cragging sessions. Of course, comfort is extremely subjective, so the following is simply one climber's experience. We sized them up a full number size above our other climbing shoes and a half size above our street shoe size. Even still, these shoes were incredibly tight and frankly uncomfortable for our wide-footed tested. Though they fit our foot length-wise, the Hiangle was tight width-wise in both the toe box and the heel cup. We would strongly recommend sizing these shoes up at least a full size from La Sportiva or Scarpa sizing in order to get a proper fit.
Their softness and C4 Stealth rubber soles make the Hiangle a sticky and sensitive shoe. We grew to like these shoes on slightly over-vertical terrain where the combination of an aggressive downturn and a soft midsole made toeing in on smears and dishes a walk in the park. The slipper-like design makes these shoes form to the foot like a glove, adding to the overall sensitivity of the shoe. The heel felt a bit baggy in some spots and tight-fitting in others, which also detracts from the shoe's sensitivity when it came to heel hooking.
We didn't love the Hiangle for edging, mostly because we prefer a stiffer sole when standing on dime edges. The softness that makes them sensitive and supple on smears and even slabs makes them less impressive on routes where powerful edging skills will help you clip the chains.
For us, crack climbing in these talons was a no-go. Perhaps if sized up a decent amount, the Hiangles could work in some cracks, but we found them to be too downturned to be functional in pretty much everything from hand cracks to finger cracks. Though they are narrow overall, the toe is actually fairly blunt and rounded. This makes them hard to fit in small cracks, where a tapered toe box is a better bet.
As mentioned above, the Hiangle has a rounded and slightly bulky toe box that takes away from the shoe's ability to get into small pockets. This, paired with the softness underfoot, made these shoes lower on the list in terms of our top picks for pocket climbing. That said, the rubber on top of the toe box makes a great shoe for toe hooking and scumming.
Ease of Use
Though we found the Hiangle's pretty hard to get our feet into, their design is meant to make them easy to get on and off. The downside to the Hiangle here is the fact that the shoe has a very narrow strip of stretchy material on the top. This makes it especially hard for wide-footed climbers to get their feet crammed into these shoes. Once on, the Velcro strap is easy to secure and adjust.
In comparison to other top-end, aggressively downturned shoes from other companies, the Hiangle actually comes in at a slightly lower price. Their construction is of a slightly lower caliber than say, the Scarpa Instincts, but in terms of a high-performance sport climbing shoe, the Hiangle are of fairly good value.
With a reasonable price tag, an aggressive shape, and a soft midsole, the Hiangles are a great high-performance shoe for gym climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. Though they did not necessarily excel in any of our metric comparisons, they performed decently overall, making them a fairly good all-around shoe for sport climbing.
— Jane Jackson