The Five Ten Asym has a very subtle downturn and a stiff sole, making it a better choice for low angle terrain (as opposed to the steeps). This low volume shoe has a low-cut heel, which we found to be ill-fitting and uncomfortable. This poor fitting heel, plus the serious stiffness of the shoe underfoot made it difficult for us to trust our feet. In terms of sensitivity and edging, these shoes did not make the cut for us. Perhaps folks who are looking for a stiff shoe would find success with the Asym, but we had a hard time making these shoes work on any terrain. We had better luck with the Five Ten Anasazi LV and the Evolv Kira when it comes to overall fit and performance.
Five Ten Asym - Women's Review
Cons: Strange heel cup, clunky, lacked precision
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Five Ten Asym - Women's
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|Pros||Inexpensive, sticky soles||Sensitive, great for edging, supportive, comfortable, versatile||Comfortable, high performance, sticky rubber, easy to put on, good in cracks, versatile||Comfortable, extremely sensitive, great for smearing and steep climbing, easy to get on and off||Good for steep climbing, break in well, conforms to foot shape, comfortable, aggressive shape|
|Cons||Strange heel cup, clunky, lacked precision||Expensive||Stretch out quickly, costly, lack support||Expensive, No-Edge technology could be an acquired taste||Expensive, lacks versatility|
|Bottom Line||The best use is low angle to vertical terrain, where this incredibly stiff shoe can hold an edge.||The Kataki wins our Editors' Choice Award for their combination of comfort, sensitivity, and edging prowess.||The Skwama are impressive in many realms, combining comfort with a high performance fit.||If you let them, they may revolutionize your footwork; they'll take some getting used to, but are top notch for steep climbing.||The Solution gets our Top Pick for steep climbing and bouldering for their aggressive shape, precision, and comfortable design.|
|Rating Categories||Five Ten Asym - Women's||La Sportiva Kataki - Women's||La Sportiva Skwama - Women's||La Sportiva Futura - Women's||Solution|
|Ease Of Use (5%)|
|Specs||Five Ten Asym -...||La Sportiva Kataki...||La Sportiva Skwama...||La Sportiva Futura...||Solution|
|Weight (Per Pair, size 37)||.97 lb||1.08 lb||1.00 lb||.91 lb||1.06 lb|
|Upper||Leather||Suede leather microfiber||Leather/Microfiber||Leather/ Synthetic||Leather/Lorica|
|Lining||Textile||Pacific||Unlined||Unlined||HF (heel and toe box only)|
|Sole Rubber||Stealth C4||Vibram XS Grip2||Vibram XS Grip2||Vibram XSGrip2||Vibram XS Grip2|
Our Analysis and Test Results
With a problematic fit in both the heel and arch of our feet, we had a hard time climbing in the stiff Asym.
The Five Ten Asym was a tricky one for us to break in, as they ran a little small. We had the best luck sizing up a half size. That said, the Asyms have leather uppers and will stretch out a bit with time. They're a very low volume shoe, so they fit our foot lengthwise, but our wide footed lead tester had difficulties with the width and ankle height of the shoes.
The heel was especially problematic, as the Asym has a very low-cut heel and a tight band of rubber that crosses the Achilles. We had a hard time getting our heel to set in the bottom of the heel cup properly. This meant that our heel felt like it was constantly about to pop out of the back of these shoes. We had much better luck with the Five Ten Anasazi in both the fit of the heel and the overall comfort.
Though the Asym has the classic and sticky C4 Stealth rubber soles, we found the stiffness of the shoe to seriously detract from the Asym's overall sensitivity. We couldn't feel the texture of the rock beneath our toes, especially compared to the No-Edge La Sportiva Futura. The stiffness and overall flat shape of the Asym also made it hard to smear or toe in hard, further detracting from the shoe's performance in our sensitivity metric. In comparison to the Five Ten Anasazi LV, which broke in to be fairly sensitive and supple, the Asym had a hard time engaging on small holds.
Where the Asym's stiffness was a detraction when it came to sensitivity, it was somewhat helpful when it came to edging. These stiff, plank-like shoes were able to hold an edge, even when we didn't trust them to. The rigidity from toe to heel provides a supportive platform for the foot that extends out perpendicular from the wall, turning tiny edges into foot ledges with a little will power and faith. Much like the La Sportiva Miura Lace, the Asym held an edge with remarkable consistency.
The only downside was the ill-fitting heel cup, as our heel tended to lever out of the back of the shoe when standing on small edges. This was definitely problematic when trying to climb harder, more tenuous face routes.
The design of the Asym makes it a decent option for crack climbing. It looks a lot like the Five Ten Anasazi LV, which we often use as a crack climbing shoe. The fairly neutral shape and stiff soles make the Asym a good shoe for trad climbing, where cracks and face holds are both used. The Velcro buckles are also high enough on the shoe, and placed on the inside, which improves the Asym's performance in cracks; the buckle won't rub if used on routes with continuous jamming. When it comes to finger cracks, we would recommend a more flexible shoe, like the Scarpa Vapor V, as it was hard to cam these stiff shoes into small splitters.
The bulky feel and stiffness of the Asym do not make these shoes our top choice for pocketed climbing. We struggled to get the Asym into small pockets in the same way we struggled to get them into finger cracks. These shoes have a stiff toe box that lacks the flexibility needed to get into pockets, especially on steep walls.
Ease of Use
The Asym has a similar closing system to the Five Ten Anasazi LV, the La Sportiva Otaki, and the Evolv Kira. All of these shoes have two Velcro straps that cover a padded mesh tongue. This design is easier to take on and off than a lace-up style shoe. That said, we had a hard time getting our foot to feel just right, especially in the heel. These challenges dissuaded us from taking the Asyms on and off frequently, or even wearing them altogether.
These shoes are best suited for climbing on vertical to low angle terrain. The stiff soles and ill-fitting heel make steep climbing difficult, though the stiffness comes in handy on vertical terrain. We also suggest that folks with a low volume foot check out the Asym, especially if you have a narrow heel. The heel shape is one of the strangest we have encountered, and we recommend trying the Asym on first before purchasing.
While the Asym may fall short in terms of performance, it makes up for in price. With a moderately low price tag of $125, the Asym is relatively affordable. The C4 Rubber is sticky, and the overall construction of the shoe seems to be made with longevity in mind. If these fit properly, they could be a good all-arounder with a reasonable price tag.
The Five Ten Asym did not inspire great confidence for us during our testing period, and we had a hard time trusting the smeary, slippery feet found on the boulders in Fontainebleau. We also had issues with their low-volume fit, as it didn't fit our various testers' foot shape. The low-cut ankle and tight heel cup had our heel feeling like it was about to pop out of the back of the shoe. The Asym is best suited for climbing on vertical to lower angle terrain where stiffness underfoot is an advantage.
— Jane Jackson