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Edelrid Jayne II Review

This is a great all-around harness and also a good option for gyms or programs.
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Price:  $60 List | $59.95 at REI
Compare prices at 3 resellers
Pros:  Sliding waistbelt keeps the belay loop in front as you adjust it, comfortable to hang in
Cons:  Rear haul loop isn't very functional, a little heavy
Manufacturer:   Edelrid
By Cam McKenzie Ring ⋅ Senior Review Editor  ⋅  May 23, 2019
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77
OVERALL
SCORE

RANKED
#6 of 13
  • Standing Comfort - 20% 7
  • Hanging Comfort - 20% 8
  • Features - 20% 8
  • Mobility - 15% 7
  • Versatility - 15% 8
  • Adjustability - 10% 8

Our Verdict

The Jayne II is a good all-around harness from Edelrid. This is a versatile model that can work well for a variety of disciplines, though it is on the heavy side. We preferred the Camp Supernova for all-around use, but they are similar and even have the same vibrant color scheme! We thought this harness didn't have the highest rise — that might suit you well if you have a lower rise or just prefer to wear your harness around your hips instead of on your waist. If you're looking for a beefy trad climbing harness, look to the Misty Mountain Silhouette, which has more padding and was more comfortable at hanging belays.

Updated Version

Edelrid has come out with an updated version of the Jayne. Read on to learn more about these updates!

May 2019


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This Product
Edelrid Jayne II
Awards  Editors' Choice Award Top Pick Award Best Buy Award Top Pick Award 
Price $59.95 at REI
Compare at 3 sellers		$69.73 at REI
Compare at 3 sellers		$69.95 at REI
Compare at 3 sellers		$54.95 at Amazon
Compare at 3 sellers		$114.95 at Backcountry
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Overall Score Sort Icon
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Star Rating
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Pros Sliding waistbelt keeps the belay loop in front as you adjust it, comfortable to hang inLightweight, comfortable, and versatileLightweight, breathable, comfortable, and highly mobileComfortable, easy to clip rigid gear loops, great value, adjustable leg loop system is light and easyPadded waist belt is comfortable, made in the USA and customizable
Cons Rear haul loop isn't very functional, a little heavyHigh-rise might not fit everyone, less durable than other harnessesMight not feel great if the leg loops don't fit youWaistbelt doesn't have the best ventilationHeavy and a little buky
Bottom Line This is a great all-around harness and also a good option for gyms or programs.The best all-around harness in our test group - not specialized for any one thing but good at a lot of things.A lightweight and thin harness that is comfortable to hang in.One of the best and least expensive all-around harnesses in this review.A comfortable traditional harness that gives you great all-day support.
Rating Categories Edelrid Jayne II CAMP Supernova Solution Momentum Misty Mountain Silhouette
Standing Comfort (20%)
10
0
7
10
0
8
10
0
9
10
0
7
10
0
6
Hanging Comfort (20%)
10
0
8
10
0
9
10
0
8
10
0
9
10
0
10
Features (20%)
10
0
8
10
0
9
10
0
9
10
0
8
10
0
8
Mobility (15%)
10
0
7
10
0
8
10
0
10
10
0
8
10
0
6
Versatility (15%)
10
0
8
10
0
9
10
0
6
10
0
8
10
0
8
Adjustability (10%)
10
0
8
10
0
9
10
0
6
10
0
7
10
0
9
Specs Edelrid Jayne II CAMP Supernova Solution Momentum Misty Mountain...
Designed for these Disciplines Sport, Trad, Ice Sport, Trad, Ice Sport Sport, Trad Sport, Trad
Weight in ounces (size small) 14.5 12.8 12 11.8 15.4
Gear Loops 4 (rigid with flexible attachment points) 4 (rigid with flexible attachment points) 4 (rigid) 4 (rigid) 4 (rigid)
Haul Loop Yes (very small) Yes (2 clip in points) Yes (not full strength) Yes Yes
Adjustable Legs? Yes Yes No Yes Yes
Self-locking buckle? Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Ice Tool Holder Slot Yes (2) Yes (2) No No No
Waistbelt Construction 3D mesh padding 3 mm EVA foam padding Fusion Comfort Technology (3 strands of webbing) Dual Core (2 thin bands of webbing with foam in between) Cambered bi-layer waistbelt
Special Features Plastic protector over bottom tie-in point Leg loops detach at the legs and not the waist for less bulk in the back Leg loops have same wide construction as waistbelt trakFIT leg adjusters are low profile and lightweight Upturned gear loops

Our Analysis and Test Results

Updates to the Jayne


The Jayne is now available in two new colorways, jazzing up the appearance of this tried and true harness. Edelrid has amended the Side Block buckles on both the waist and leg loops. These updated buckles are meant to be easier to adjust. There is now additional stretch in the leg loops. In the photos below, you can see the updated Jayne on the left, and the version we tested on the left.


The updated Jayne is sometimes referred to as the Jayne III, but Edelrid's website simply refers to it as the Jayne. We have yet to get our hands on this new version for review, so be aware that the following review refers to the previous model. However, we are linking to the updated Jayne III above.

Hands-On Review of the Jayne II


The Edelrid Jayne II has a sliding waistbelt to help you keep the belay loop in the right position. It has a tiny loop in the back that you could potentially use for a haul line, but it's hard to get a carabiner in and out of it. It does have two ice clipper slots and a low profile back for chimneying. Note that we thought this harness was a little on the roomy side in the size small that we tested. The sizing chart says that a small fits a 24.8-32.7 inch waist, but at its smallest, it's more like 28 inches. Just keep that in mind if you are between sizes on their chart and perhaps size down in this one.

This all-around harness felt a little heavy when sport climbing but it was comfortable to hang in.
This all-around harness felt a little heavy when sport climbing, but it was comfortable to hang in.

Standing and Hanging Comfort


This harness received an average score for both standing and hanging comfort. It's a little bulkier than some of the super-thin and lightweight models, and it wasn't quite as comfortable as them when hanging around the crag. There is some good padding in the waist and leg loops, so we liked hanging in this one more than the Arc'teryx models, but it wasn't as plush as the Misty Mountain Silhouette. There was one spot on each leg loop that is hard and full of stitching, and we sometimes felt that pushing into us which wasn't so comfortable.

You can see the heavily stitched areas just inside the belt buckles on the leg loops. They were stiff and pressed into us uncomfortably at times.
You can see the heavily stitched areas just inside the belt buckles on the leg loops. They were stiff and pressed into us uncomfortably at times.

Discipline-Specific Features


The Jayne has some good features for an all-around model, like ice clipper slots, but it is missing a real haul loop in the back, which was a little annoying.

The "e" is actually a tab that you can (try to) slide a carabiner in to. We prefer bigger haul loops than this one.
The "e" is actually a tab that you can (try to) slide a carabiner in to. We prefer bigger haul loops than this one.

We did like the plastic reinforcement on the bottom tie-in point though. This protects both your harness and your rope from repeated friction and wear in one spot.

The plastic piece keeps your bottom tie-in point protected.
The plastic piece keeps your bottom tie-in point protected.

Mobility


We had pretty good mobility in this model, though it didn't quite compare to the harnesses with elastic at the leg loops, like the Black Diamond Solution.

Cutting loose in the Jayne. The leg loops were at times restricting but the overall mobility is still good.
Cutting loose in the Jayne. The leg loops were at times restricting, but the overall mobility is still good.

Versatility


This is a pretty versatile harness. It's comfortable enough for long routes, though you might not have quite enough room on your gear loops and it doesn't have a useable haul loop. (The tab at the back says 25 kg (55 lbs), but its hard to get a carabiner through it.) It does have two ice clipper tool slots, should you only ice climb occasionally or only want one on each side when you do.

There is a slot between the gear loops on either side for an ice tool carabiner.
There is a slot between the gear loops on either side for an ice tool carabiner.

Adjustability


While this harness does have adjustable leg loops, we thought that the rise was a little low, and even when we had the leg straps extended all of the way it didn't sit on our waist properly. The leg loops are fully adjustable though, which is nice when its cold out and you need to layer. The waistbelt is also adjustable in a unique way. The load bearing webbing is moveable within the padding so that you can keep the belay loop directly in front of you when making the waist bigger or smaller.

The leg loops adjust easily and we liked the buckles. The waist also had a unique adjustment but we couldn't get the rise quite high enough in the rear.
The leg loops adjust easily and we liked the buckles. The waist also had a unique adjustment but we couldn't get the rise quite high enough in the rear.

Best Applications


Edelrid Jayne II is a good option for someone looking for an inexpensive and burly all-around harness. While we didn't score for durability, this one is sure to hold up for a while, and the plastic protector on the tie-in point will increase its longevity. The sizing tag is right on the front of this model, which seems a little strange for personal use (you can just cut it off), but makes it great for programs or gyms who purchase "real" harnesses instead of the fully adjustable (and fully uncomfortable) webbing ones. With the Jayne you'll be able to organize your sizes easily.

It did feel a little strange to be advertising our harness size like that. This harness does have the unique ability to move the padding around the central webbing so that you can get coverage in the right spots and still have your belay loop directly in front of you.
It did feel a little strange to be advertising our harness size like that. This harness does have the unique ability to move the padding around the central webbing so that you can get coverage in the right spots and still have your belay loop directly in front of you.

Value


This harness retails for $60, which is a good price. We liked the Black Diamond Momentum a little bit more than this one though, and it costs a little less ($55).

Conclusion


There is nothing wrong with Edelrid Jayne II, but it didn't stand out enough in any one particular way to win an award in our review. It is comfortable and fairly versatile though, and may just be the perfect fit for you!


— Cam McKenzie Ring