Updates to the Jayne
The Jayne is now available in two new colorways, jazzing up the appearance of this tried and true harness. Edelrid has amended the Side Block buckles on both the waist and leg loops. These updated buckles are meant to be easier to adjust. There is now additional stretch in the leg loops. In the photos below, you can see the updated Jayne on the left, and the version we tested on the left.
The updated Jayne is sometimes referred to as the Jayne III, but Edelrid's website simply refers to it as the Jayne. We have yet to get our hands on this new version for review, so be aware that the following review refers to the previous model. However, we are linking to the updated Jayne III above.
Hands-On Review of the Jayne II
The Edelrid Jayne II has a sliding waistbelt to help you keep the belay loop in the right position. It has a tiny loop in the back that you could potentially use for a haul line, but it's hard to get a carabiner in and out of it. It does have two ice clipper slots and a low profile back for chimneying. Note that we thought this harness was a little on the roomy side in the size small that we tested. The sizing chart says that a small fits a 24.8-32.7 inch waist, but at its smallest, it's more like 28 inches. Just keep that in mind if you are between sizes on their chart and perhaps size down in this one.
This all-around harness felt a little heavy when sport climbing, but it was comfortable to hang in.
Standing and Hanging Comfort
This harness received an average score for both standing and hanging comfort. It's a little bulkier than some of the super-thin and lightweight models, and it wasn't quite as comfortable as them when hanging around the crag. There is some good padding in the waist and leg loops, so we liked hanging in this one more than the Arc'teryx models, but it wasn't as plush as the Misty Mountain Silhouette. There was one spot on each leg loop that is hard and full of stitching, and we sometimes felt that pushing into us which wasn't so comfortable.
You can see the heavily stitched areas just inside the belt buckles on the leg loops. They were stiff and pressed into us uncomfortably at times.
Discipline-Specific Features
The Jayne has some good features for an all-around model, like ice clipper slots, but it is missing a real haul loop in the back, which was a little annoying.
The "e" is actually a tab that you can (try to) slide a carabiner in to. We prefer bigger haul loops than this one.
We did like the plastic reinforcement on the bottom tie-in point though. This protects both your harness and your rope from repeated friction and wear in one spot.
The plastic piece keeps your bottom tie-in point protected.
Mobility
We had pretty good mobility in this model, though it didn't quite compare to the harnesses with elastic at the leg loops, like the Black Diamond Solution.
Cutting loose in the Jayne. The leg loops were at times restricting, but the overall mobility is still good.
Versatility
This is a pretty versatile harness. It's comfortable enough for long routes, though you might not have quite enough room on your gear loops and it doesn't have a useable haul loop. (The tab at the back says 25 kg (55 lbs), but its hard to get a carabiner through it.) It does have two ice clipper tool slots, should you only ice climb occasionally or only want one on each side when you do.
There is a slot between the gear loops on either side for an ice tool carabiner.
Adjustability
While this harness does have adjustable leg loops, we thought that the rise was a little low, and even when we had the leg straps extended all of the way it didn't sit on our waist properly. The leg loops are fully adjustable though, which is nice when its cold out and you need to layer. The waistbelt is also adjustable in a unique way. The load bearing webbing is moveable within the padding so that you can keep the belay loop directly in front of you when making the waist bigger or smaller.
The leg loops adjust easily and we liked the buckles. The waist also had a unique adjustment but we couldn't get the rise quite high enough in the rear.
Best Applications
Edelrid Jayne II is a good option for someone looking for an inexpensive and burly all-around harness. While we didn't score for durability, this one is sure to hold up for a while, and the plastic protector on the tie-in point will increase its longevity. The sizing tag is right on the front of this model, which seems a little strange for personal use (you can just cut it off), but makes it great for programs or gyms who purchase "real" harnesses instead of the fully adjustable (and fully uncomfortable) webbing ones. With the Jayne you'll be able to organize your sizes easily.
It did feel a little strange to be advertising our harness size like that. This harness does have the unique ability to move the padding around the central webbing so that you can get coverage in the right spots and still have your belay loop directly in front of you.
Value
This harness rings in at a fair price. We liked the Black Diamond Momentum a little bit more than this one though, and it costs a little less.
Conclusion
There is nothing wrong with Edelrid Jayne II, but it didn't stand out enough in any one particular way to win an award in our review. It is comfortable and fairly versatile though, and may just be the perfect fit for you!
