Reviews You Can Rely On

How We Tested Climbing Harnesses for Women

Thursday April 25, 2024

We tested each of the climbing harnesses over a four-month period, taking input from several different testers with decades of climbing experience between them. We wore them while sport and trad climbing at the local crags around Las Vegas, Nevada, and also on some climbing trips to other locales. Here's how we specifically tested the various metrics that we used to evaluate the different models.

climbing harness womens - gear testing women's harnesses in red rock canyon, las vegas. going...
Gear testing women's harnesses in Red Rock Canyon, Las Vegas. Going to “work” every day was definitely not a chore.
Credit: Cam McKenzie Ring

Hanging Comfort


We evaluated hanging comfort through several methods. We spent a lot of time hanging in each harness when working a route and belaying someone who was hangdogging their project a lot. We also set up a free-hanging test in our living room. We clipped ourselves into a secure point in the ceiling and hung out for ten minutes, or longer if we could stand it.

climbing harness womens - it didn't take long for us to feel uncomfortable hanging in some...
It didn't take long for us to feel uncomfortable hanging in some harnesses. We hung extensively in each one to figure out which felt the best when free hanging.
Credit: Cam McKenzie Ring

Standing Comfort and Mobility


We wore each harness for an entire day out and paid close attention to how comfortable we felt throughout the day. We considered whether we could easily walk and climb in the different models, with or without a pack on, if it pinched us anywhere, and whether we felt constrained by it, whether it impeded our movement, or if we barely noticed that it was on.

climbing harness womens - sometimes you spend more time standing around than climbing (it can...
Sometimes you spend more time standing around than climbing (it can especially feel that way alpine climbing!) We rated each model based on how comfortable they felt while belaying, walking, and “hanging” around.
Credit: Whitney Clark

Since a large part of the standing comfort is also dictated by the fit of the harness (rise, leg loop circumference), we did a lot of measuring to see what really constitutes a women's specific fit. After measuring as many rises out there as we had friends, we tried to come to a consensus for what fit the majority of women best. We also weighed the harnesses ourselves (the manufacturer's stated weight is not always correct).

climbing harness womens - we did a lot of high-stepping and heel hooking to figure out which...
We did a lot of high-stepping and heel hooking to figure out which models had the best movement.
Credit: Cam McKenzie Ring

Discipline-Specific Features


If a harness was specifically designed for one type of climbing, we evaluated how well it performed in that specific discipline. Some harnesses are sport-specific models and might not have ice clipper tool slots, but if you are only looking to use it for sport climbing, it would be unfair for us to compare it to an all-around model. For sport harnesses, we mainly considered the placement and ease of access of the gear loops. For all-around harnesses, we considered the gear loops as well, looking to see how much we could carry on them, as well as the number and usability of ice tool clipper slots.

climbing harness womens - we looked at all of the features that a harness had, and how useful...
We looked at all of the features that a harness had, and how useful and functional they were.
Credit: Cam McKenzie Ring

Versatility


We tried these different models on steep single-pitch sport routes, long vertical climbs, and single and multi-pitch traditional routes. Then we rated them based on the number of disciplines that they would be useful for. Some harnesses receive a low score for versatility as they work best in the gym and not for much else, but if you only need a harness for one particular application, this metric may not be so important to you.

climbing harness womens - we climbed in each model in a variety of areas and disciplines to...
We climbed in each model in a variety of areas and disciplines to see how versatile they were.
Credit: Scott Ring

Adjustability


For this metric, we compared the adjustment options in the waist and leg loops and tried each model on over a variety of clothing and on different ladies. Could we wear this over leggings and thicker pants? When the leg loops were let out larger, were they still comfortable? How was each model sized compared to the other?

climbing harness womens - not all harnesses are built the same, so we spent lots of time...
Not all harnesses are built the same, so we spent lots of time fiddling with straps and adjustments to judge how accommodating each harness can be.
Credit: Eric Bissell