All-mountain skis are meant to do exactly what their name suggests - ski the whole of the mountain. This means that they are intended to provide a consistent ride throughout a variety of terrain, snow conditions and speeds - from steeps to mellow pitches, from groomers to powder, and from terminal velocity to a snail's pace.
The all-mountain models we tested (some manufacturers refer to this category as freeride) belong at the resort, meaning they have been specifically designed with lift-riding in mind, rather than hiking or skinning to earn your turns like a lighter-weight backcountry model might be. Yet, this should not preclude these skis from performing well in the types of snow and terrain you might find in the backcountry; they should be able to move with ease between groomed and ungroomed snow.
We compared all our test skis in head-to-head in round-robin days and on a group testing weekends near Lake Tahoe. We also used them for months for both work and play at Mammoth Mountain, California, and took them on personal ski vacations to other resorts and even other countries.
We explain the details of our testing process in our How We Test article. Also, learn about who we are and how we came to a consensus on the opinions in this review. Plus, reference our bonus glossary of terms if you are bewildered about the numerous ways to describe snow conditions.
It may seem daunting to choose a single ski that will be perfect for you, especially because everyone skis differently, for different reasons, and in different places and conditions. Fear not - our review helps guide to to the perfect planks for you personally, and demystifies the selection process for those who want that one perfect ski to take them everywhere.
What Style Should You Choose?
Deciding which ski you will spend all your time on can be intimidating, but we're here to help. First, you must consider in which type of terrain you spend the most time. If you love groomed runs and don't venture off often, choose an on-piste or front-side model, which is better at carving and holding an edge on harder snow. These are often slightly skinnier underfoot and have a shorter turn radius. On the other hand, if you know that you save your ski days for when mother nature has left a foot of snow on the mountain, then you should opt for a more powder-specific ski which will keep you floating in the deep snow.
However, if you are a die-hard skier and you want to be out in all conditions, then you want the best of both worlds, and an all-mountain ski will provide you with this compromise. Even if you've already narrowed your choices to all-mountain resort skis, selecting from that point can still be overwhelming - there is still a multitude of options.
Within the all-mountain category, designs vary dramatically, and each one often still has a preferred terrain. Some feel more suited for groomed runs, but also have enough width and rocker to succeed with style on a storm day. Other models have fat waists and less sidecut for those gals who love to rip off-piste, but also want something they will feel stable on when riding the groomer back to the chairlift. Both the Kastle FX95 HP and the Rossignol Soul 7 are competitors with this bent. Skis like these are possibilities for your quiver-of-one. Mastering all types of snow and terrain, to some extent, they are the perfect option for anyone who only has the budget or the storage space for a single pair of planks. To find the right pair for you, check out our full Women's All-Mountain Review.
Either way - whether you choose to have a quiver-of-one or you prefer to have a true quiver of skis, you're likely to be interested in all-mountain skis. If you're only choosing one pair, this is the type you'll want. If you want 2-4 pairs, you're still likely to have an all-mountain set in that bunch; all of our testers, who each ski more than fifty days per season, have an all-mountain ski in their back pocket for days when conditions might be uncertain, and they don't want to commit to either skinny or fat.
While this particular review is centered on all-mountain skis, there is a huge range of other varieties of sliding sticks out there. We'll give an abbreviated outline here of the different designs to provide a better understanding of how the all-mountain model fits into the grand scheme.
These skis are a step down in width and a step up in side cut from the all-mountain category. These are sometimes referred to as front side boards. These models are meant for women who intend to stay on the groomed runs all day and may want to play around carving tight turns around some bamboo — but have no interest in skiing the rough stuff.
Many experts reach for a big mountain model when they're going for a big day out. These are longer and stiffer and with lots of camber. They can plow through anything they're pointed at. Getting dropped off by a heli at the top of a mountain in Alaska to rip some spines? Get a big mountain pair.
This category has changed a lot in the last ten years. You will find these models with ever-increasing waist dimensions and rocker. They have at least a 100 mm waist with a very short effective edge and lots of rocker. They are not the best on-piste and will often feel like snow-blades on groomed runs because so little of the edges touch the snow. If you are looking for a great addition to your quiver and anticipate a lot of pow-shredding, powder planks sure are fun in their element.
If you want to look like the dorkiest person on the mountain, get snowblades (Also known as Snoller Blades). Surprisingly, though, they're a great tool for learning bump skiing techniques as well as tricks in the park. Just make sure you sport an 80's onesie while on them and wear them through the lodge on your feet for bonus laughs. Do not take them out on a powder day.
Depending on the manufacturer, these can also be called freestyle or jib skis. A bit skinnier in the waist and usually center mounted for riding switch, park models are meant for, well, the park. Typically they are twin tipped and have a softer flex for softer landings. If you prefer hucking your meat off of jumps and rails all day, a park model may be for you.
Backcountry models are meant to be taken outside the resort. These come in a variety of shapes and sizes, but weight is one of the main concerns. If you are going to be hiking in the backcountry, you want a lightweight setup. They often have a lightweight core and are paired with a binding that allows the heel to be free for the climb up. Backcountry specific models often compromise the downhill performance slightly in favor of being lighter weight, so they are not recommended for resort skiing. Check out our and Backcountry Review for information about which ones perform best outside the resort boundary.
This is a completely different category that is not meant to head downhill. These models do not have metal edges and are much skinnier and lighter than any alpine model. They are meant to be taken to your local Nordic center and used on groomed trails. They are mounted with minimal bindings that allow your heel to lift as you stride or skate along.
Why Choose a Women's Model?
Most of the products in this review are female-specific, only the Kastle FX95 HP is a unisex ski. Women's models are often shorter, with a softer flex, because women are typically shorter with less weight to throw around. This makes them easier for many ladies to operate, particularly beginner, intermediate or laid-back skiers. Many expert women skiers buy unisex or men's models because softer, flexier skis aren't stiff or stable enough to keep up with them on the mountain.
Lately, manufacturers are making an effort to lighten up their women's skis to suit smaller bodies while maintaining stiffness. Bits of added carbon in the new Rossignol Soul 7 HD Ws and Blizzard Black Pearl 98 create lighter-weight turning machines. The new K2 FulLUVit 95 and super fun Elan Ripstick 94 W are in the same boat. But the unisex Kastle is the most stable option by far.
What can be a bummer is that most women's specific models are made in shorter lengths, up to about 175-180 cm or shorter. We were surprised to find that we were on the longest length available of some of the models we tested. Shorter models are easier to turn and control, but typically do not perform as well at speed or in deep snow.
Take it or leave it, women's specific models do exist, and for most female recreational skiers, the women's versions are an excellent choice to get you sliding on the snow. If you are larger, stronger, or much more aggressive than the average lady, you may want to go with a unisex model.
Find out more about the details that manufacturers take into account when designing a women's specific ski — length, flex, recommended mounting point, and graphics.
When a ski has a very stiff flex, it requires a lot of power and weight to turn and dig into the snow. Women are typically lighter than men, so manufacturers usually make women's versions in softer flexes than the male equivalent. This makes sense. With comparatively less weight behind our power, women may benefit from a slightly softer product that they can throw their weight onto and rail into turns.
Still, it's somewhat contentious among ladies with advanced skills, because they can turn and handle stiff models just like the guys. While women's skies are getting stronger, for women of this opinion, the unisex Kastle is your best option by far.
Recommended Mounting Point
Women have more posterior weight in their athletic stances, meaning that our center of gravity is lower around our hips. Men tend to carry more of theirs in their upper torso. Some manufacturers account for this by moving their recommended mounting points closer to the middle (lengthwise) for women, to bring the posterior weight forward for better control.
We noticed the difference when comparing binding mounts on skis with similar lengths. The K2 FulLUVit 95 bindings were much more central than on the Blizzard Black Pearls. Perhaps because of this, we found the K2 much easier to maneuver.
OK, we know this is part of the "pink it," but we don't mind more graphics options. They are usually flashy or clever. Most of us really like the K2 FulLUVit's graphics because they are fun and bright.
Things to Consider When Choosing Your Skis
First, think about your skiing style, ability, and terrain preference. Do you like to cruise groomers, or do you want to hit the steep off-piste runs? Do you like tight, snappy turns, or big, flowy arcs? Keep this in mind as you read.
You will need to assess your skill level realistically before choosing your ski. If you get one that is too advanced for you, the fun factor will go right out the window. If you get one that is too beginner, you will get bored and not be able to comfortably go into the terrain you want to go into.
Beginner/Intermediate: Are you still working on your pizza to french fry transition? Do you stick to the green circles and are working on blue squares? You should look for models with a softer flex, skinnier waist, and on the short side in length. A ski with some rocker might help make turns easier.
Intermediate/Advanced: Are you working on getting down those black diamond runs and starting to venture off-piste and into the powder? You may be gaining confidence at speed on groomed or steeper runs. Consider a model that has a bit more waist width, medium stiffness, and is a bit longer. A rockered model will help you get more float and stability in the crud.
Advanced/Expert: You cruise with confidence all over the mountain. You like to charge big lines and cover ground at higher speeds. You are comfortable on bumps, crud, powder, and on piste. You want a stiff ski that is stable at speeds and holds an edge. You may be building your quiver, and have a skinnier-waisted model for carving and a fat pair for powder.
What length to choose is a complicated question, with no clear answer. Consider your ability and the speeds you prefer. The more competent you are, and the faster you like to go, generally, the longer a ski you want — to a point. A good rule of thumb for length is when you stand the ski with the tail on the ground, it should reach anywhere between your chin to the top of your head. If you are a beginner or intermediate skier, go for around the chin height, as shorter models are easier to turn.
If you are an expert skier, you may want a ski that reaches the top of your head, or even over your head. The complicating factor with most modern designs, especially in the all-mountain category, is that they often come with a lot of rocker, which means there is less efficient edge touching the snow, so they feel shorter and are easier to maneuver, even if they are longer overall. If the model you are purchasing has rocker, you may want to bump up a length from what you typically would buy.
If you look at your ski from the side in profile, does it look like a smiley face or a funky mustache? Rocker, or reverse camber, is how much the tip and tail raise off the snow when it sits on the ground, un-weighted.
Camber, which has been used in ski design for a long time, is what gives power in the turns and edge hold, and is used generously in carving-specific models. The amount of camber can be seen when the ski is on the ground un-weighted. The point where the camber touches the snow or ground is the length of its effective edge.
There are four profiles that are most common:
Full Camber: Historically, most skis were full camber. This means that they have a large arc underfoot where the ski does not touch the snow until very close to the tip and tail. Many carving and racing models are still fully cambered for great edge hold and stability at speed.
Full Rocker: This is the reverse of camber, and creates a slight U shape from tip to tail. Fully rockered models typically have great float in powder because their exaggerated tip and tail lift allow you to stay on top of the snow with greater ease. Fully rockered models are also easy to maneuver because they have very little effective edge and so they turn on a dime. You will find full rocker in park and all-mountain models and in most powder versions.
Rocker/Camber: This is when rocker is added in the tip but still has camber underfoot. The advantage of tip rocker is that it makes it more versatile — it has more float, a shorter effective edge, and is easier to turn, but still has camber underfoot for added power and stability in turns when at higher speeds. These skis have no rocker in the tail, which is fine unless you're landing switch off cliff drops into powder (which we weren't). The Icelantic Oracle 88 has a rocker/camber profile.
Rocker/Camber/Rocker: This profile seems to be the most popular among the all-mountain models we tested, and is just as it sounds: rocker in the tip, camber underfoot, and rocker in the tail. This profile gives the ski added playfulness and float and still has the benefits of camber underfoot. The tail rocker, allows you to land cliff drops switch in powder (if that's your thing) and seems to add some silkiness to the back of the ski, allowing you to easily smear turns in the fresh stuff.
Every other model we tested has this profile — the Rossignol Soul 7 HD W, the Elan Ripsticks 94, the Blizzard Black Pearl 98, the Dynastar Legend W 96, the K2 FulLuvit, the Kastle FX 95 HP, the Black Crows Camox Birdie and the Volkl 90Eight. The Elans take the rocker/camber/rocker idea another step further, with their Amphibio profile. It's hard to wrap your mind around at first, but the Ripsticks have a dedicated left and right ski. The inside edge (the one you're pressuring and relying on for edge hold) has regular camber for grip and stability. The outside edge has more rocker further back from the tip and tail in an attempt to provide a smoother turn transition and forgiveness.
Unfortunately, there is no industry standard for measuring or qualifying how much rocker a ski has. Both the Rossignol Soul 7 and the Volkl 90Eights have rocker/camber/rocker profiles, but the amount of rocker varies greatly. The Rossignol has lots of rocker and are very easy to maneuver, whereas the Volkl does not, and we find them much more difficult to turn. They don't float as well in powder either. Some manufacturers will give a percentage of rocker versus camber like 30 percent tip and tail rocker, 70 percent camber, but we find these numbers to be quite subjective as well.
Depending on your needs on the slopes, shape can play an important factor in how your ski performs. Waist width, sidecut, and turn radius all help determine the behavior of your ski, and can either complement or combat your style.
Sidecut: This is the overall shape of your ski. The waist dimensions relative to the tip and tail will determine the sidecut. Sometimes we just call this the shape. The more sidecut, or the larger the difference in waist versus tip or tail measurements, the carvier and more turny it will be. One way to visualize the sidecut of a ski is if you laid it on the snow on its edge, how much light would come through the space near the binding? A large gap signifies large sidecut; a smaller air space denotes less sidecut.
When a ski has a lot of sidecut, once you get the ski on edge, the rest of the work is done for you. With less sidecut, the ski needs to be driven a bit more and prefers broader turns — this is easier to do for more advanced skiers. The Black Crows Camox Birdie has the least amount of sidecut at 126-97-112, and thus take more driving to force them into tight turns.
Waist width: This determines how wide the ski is underfoot. The wider the waist, the more float you will have in powder, and the skinnier, the easier the ski will be to turn. The all-mountain models in this review have waist widths ranging from 88 mm to 106 mm. On-piste carving models typically have a skinnier waist width of 85 mm or less, and powder versions usually start at 110 mm or greater.
Turn Radius: Turn radius is meant to signify the natural turn shape and size of a ski if it was allowed to turn on its own without the driver having a say. The turn radius is determined by its shape and sidecut. Typically, the more significant the sidecut, the shorter the turn radius is, but the stiffness of a ski also seems to play a role in the designated radius.
If you like tight, peppy turns, choose a model with a small turn radius. If you like big, flowy turns, then select a larger one. You will be much happier if you determine what the turn radius is and try to make turns that work with those parameters.
It is important to become familiar with the different types of construction and materials so you can decide the best balance of quality versus budget. Here we outline the typical construction types and components of a ski. As you may imagine, there are so many types of materials out there, and varying opinions about each one. We are just providing an overview.
Core: This is the meat and potatoes of the ski and what gives it its flex and character. There have been many fad materials used to make cores, but wood is the classic and most reliable material. Wood is the preferred core material because of its damping properties and rebound but is usually the most expensive. All of the products we tested have wood cores of one type or another. Other core materials are typically made from some kind of foam or foam and wood combo. Foam is less expensive and lighter weight but doesn't give as much rebound.
Composite Layers: These are all the other materials that sandwich below and on top of the core. They can consist of anything from fiberglass and epoxy to carbon. These layers add to the ski's stiffness and hold everything together. There are an increasing number of on-hill skis that use carbon for increased rigidity and torsional tension, like the Blizzard Black Pearl.
Base: The base is exactly that — the bottom. Bases need to slide well on snow, but they also take a beating from running over rocks and ice. Manufacturers use ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene (UHMW-PE) for base materials, and bases are usually only about 1.5 mm thick. There are two ways of creating the base — sintered and extruded. The sintered method is typically found on high-end models. It is harder and accepts wax better. Extruded is just the opposite. It is challenging to find out what base type your ski has unless you contact the manufacturer directly and ask.
Sidewalls: The edges of your skies will have a sidewall or a cap. Sidewall or "sandwich" construction uses an extra piece of plastic that runs the length of your ski from tip to tail. It connects along the edge with the top sheet on top and the base and edge on the bottom. Cap construction wraps the top sheet over the top edge, wrapping over the sides and meeting up with the bottom edge like it's wearing a cap.
Sidewall construction seems to be the preferred method in high-end models, and most people believe it is a higher performing construction because the edges have better hold and the softer piece of plastic seems to have dampening qualities.
We have noticed during testing that sidewall construction does seem more durable than cap. The cap models in our review seem to get more chips in their top sheet. It is quite common to see a hybrid cap/sandwich construction these days. This construction has the sidewall underfoot for performance but is capped at the tip and tail to reduce weight and cost.
Topsheets: These are what initially draws us to the ski — and proudly displays the manufacturer's graphics. The top sheet is usually made of plastic and is the waterproof layer that protects the rest of the ski.