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How to Choose the Right Base Layer Top

At a nice rest belay ledge at last. The SmartWool Merino 250 flaunting its versatility through a full day of climbing in a wide range of temperatures and keeping us comfortable for the entire ride.
By Roland Mott ⋅ Review Editor
Tuesday November 13, 2018

Is it time to finally give your Grandpa's hand-me-down, saggy cotton long johns the boot and upgrade into the 21st century? A quality base layer is the kicking off point of having a functional clothing set up for getting outside to play. Serving you from warm summer nights into the depths of winter, a base layer is a foundational piece of equipment for doing the things you love outdoors. A base layer's key function is to regulate your body temperature through a range of temperatures and intensity of activities by providing warmth, wicking sweat away from your body, and keeping you dry while being comfortable and allowing for ease of movement. There's a lot to consider when choosing a base layer that will benefit you in your specific outdoor passions and lifestyle for years of adventures and everyday use.

Key Considerations


It is important to consider what activities, conditions, and intentions for use you have for a base layer and what you are willing to spend. From that point, you can get into the nitty-gritty of fabrics, weights, features, etc. Are you an athlete that pushes yourself in the harshest conditions on earth or do you need a base layer for walking your dog and shoveling snow in the middle of winter? The big considerations, outside of largely subjective ones like comfort and fit, are warmth, breathability, and durability. Do you need a base layer that will keep you warm through the icy grips of winter or do you need a base layer that will breathe when you're sucking wind and sweating like a dog pedaling up technical terrain on your mountain bike in the fall? Is durability an important quality, do plan on dragging your base layer up granite chimneys climbing or will it mostly live under an insulating shell for resort skiing? Again, we can't stress enough the importance of understanding how and for what you will be using a base layer. Determine that first. Moving from there, here are a few things that may help in your research process.

The first hint of sun while skinning up Mt. Hood. Backcountry skiing  from sweating on the ups and cooling down on the descent  is an activity that demands more versatility in a base layer.
The first hint of sun while skinning up Mt. Hood. Backcountry skiing, from sweating on the ups and cooling down on the descent, is an activity that demands more versatility in a base layer.

Merino Wool vs. Synthetic Fabric


There are several materials that base layers can be made out of including silk, cotton, merino wool, polypropylene, polyester, etc. For ease of digestion and relevance, we're going to cover the two most popular and effective base layer fabrics and lay out the pros and cons to each. Merino Wool and Polyester.

Merino Wool


Merino wool has deservingly taken its place as the best fabric to use for a base layer. Merino wool comes from a specific breed of sheep that live at higher elevations in New Zealand. Merino sheep have extremely fine wool which makes for a delightfully soft feel next to skin with minimal to no itch. Cashmere, coming from sheep in the Himalayan region of Kashmir would be the only sheep with a finer wool than merino. Merino wool is known for its unmatched ability to regulate body temperature through wide ranges of output and temperatures. Merino's natural anti-bacterial properties combined with its superb ability to wick sweat and dry quickly allow it to be used time after time without holding onto stink.

Our Editors' Choice Winner  the 100% Merino wool SmartWool Merino 250 Crew sports a super cush and comfy merino fabric and boasts fantastic warmth but with great wicking and breathability skills.
Our Editors' Choice Winner, the 100% Merino wool SmartWool Merino 250 Crew sports a super cush and comfy merino fabric and boasts fantastic warmth but with great wicking and breathability skills.

Pros
  • Incredible body temperature regulation
  • Natural fiber
  • Soft feel next to skin
  • Breathable
  • Quick-wicking
  • Insulates when wet
  • Odor resistant
  • Don't have to wash regularly
  • Versatile

Cons
  • Less durable (prone to developing holes, pilling, stretching out)
  • Longer dry time
  • Typically heavier
  • Typically more expensive
  • Can be finicky to launder

The 100% Merino wool base layers we tested are the SmartWool Merino 250 Crew, Icebreaker 200 Oasis Crew, and REI Co-op Merino Base Layer Top.

Synthetics


Base layers made of synthetic fabric are usually made with Polyester or incorporate a blend of a natural fiber like Merino Wool with Polyester. Synthetic base layers are usually less expensive and more durable than their merino friends, although they are typically less breathable and not as warm. They also tend to build up a significant stench-factor faster.

The polyester made of partially recycled material in The North Face Warm Crew is thick   comfortable  and very warm but lacks in breathability and durability.
The polyester made of partially recycled material in The North Face Warm Crew is thick, comfortable, and very warm but lacks in breathability and durability.

Pros
  • Durable (doesn't stretch out or pill as much)
  • Quick to dry
  • Typically less expensive
  • Easier to care for
  • Typically absorb less water

Cons
  • Not as warm
  • Tend to hold onto sweat/moisture longer
  • Notorious for being stinky
  • Not as breathable
  • Not as efficient temperature regulation
  • Petro-based fiber (if not made from recycled polyester, not as sustainable as wool)

The synthetic base layers we tested are the Patagonia Capilene Lightweight Crew, Arc'teryx Phase AR Crew, and The North Face Warm Crew.

The Merino wool/synthetic blend base layers we tester are the Patagonia Capilene Air Crew and Rab Merino+ 120 Crew.

The Rab Merino+ 120 is a blend of merino wool and polyester giving it the benefits of both materials. Great temperature regulation and breathability but a bit more durability and ability to keep shape through washings.
The Rab Merino+ 120 is a blend of merino wool and polyester giving it the benefits of both materials. Great temperature regulation and breathability but a bit more durability and ability to keep shape through washings.

Fabric Weight


Base layers come in a range of fabric weights: lightweight, midweight, and expedition weight. Depending on the season and temperature range as well as the intensity of activity, a specific weight may benefit your intended uses.

Lightweight base layers are going to be versatile across the three seasons where snow is not involved and possibly a good choice for energy-intensive snow activities. Lightweight base layers are typically going to have high breathability making them ideal for pursuits where you are working up a sweat in warm to cold conditions. The Patagonia Capilene Lightweight Crew is a fantastic choice and staff favorite for backpacking, mountain biking, and trail running through warm weather. The Rab Merino + 120 Crew offers a bit more warmth with outstanding breathability making it ideal for cross-country skiing, spring backcountry skiing, or fall backpacking or climbing.

Midweight base layers are going to be the most versatile and are what the majority of people go for, as they offer higher levels of warmth but still maintain versatility with breathability and wicking abilities. These are excellent for the winter season, from shoveling feet of snow to skiing on top of it. Performing comfortably in the cold of winter as well as when the mercury begins to rise again in spring and fall, a midweight is going to offer you a great all-around, do-everything base layer. Midweight layers that we tested and loved are the Icebreaker 200 Oasis Crew, the REI Co-op Merino Top, and the Arc'teryx Phase AR Crew.

Expedition Weight are going to be your heavy hitters for extreme cold. These are the layers you are going to choose when warmth is a priority and being cold is simply not an option. We didn't really test expedition weight base layer tops as they are not as commonly used but the two warmest tops that we tested would fall somewhere between a mid and expedition weight. The SmartWool Merino 250 Crew and the Patagonia Capilene Air Crew both offer a warm, thick fabric that is extremely warm but boasts great breathability allowing them to be versatile in their use across seasons. We would say these two carry the warmth of an expedition weight but the versatility of a midweight.

Sustainability


Although this is not part of our reviews of individual products, we believe it is one of or the most important consideration when making a purchase. Both brands and consumers are growing more conscious of the impact of the clothing that we're making and wearing on both the environment and the lives of the people involved in the process. We all hold a responsibility to minimize the unnecessary harm that we either create or support as well as do what we can to improve the lives of the people that work hard so we can have gear that allows us to enjoy the outdoors.

The dollars that we spend are one the most important and direct ways that we vote on the kind of environment and community we wish to both create and be a part of. When it comes to the apparel industry, which is the second largest contributor to environmental impact behind the oil industry, it is important that brands make intentional efforts to move toward producing their clothing more sustainable.

Patagonia is an aggressive leader in spearheading as well as encouraging other brands to minimize the impact their clothing and business has. Sourcing and manufacturing with sustainable fibers and materials is one of the biggest steps an apparel company can make in reducing their environmental impact. As a consumer, supporting brands and buying products that are made with sustainable fabrics is how we can directly and intentionally vote with our dollars.

The Patagonia Capilene Lightweight Crew is impressive for its sustainability  made from 100% recycled polyester and fair-trade certified sewing.
The Patagonia Capilene Lightweight Crew is impressive for its sustainability, made from 100% recycled polyester and fair-trade certified sewing.

Natural fibers are more sustainable than oil-based or synthetic viscose like polyester or nylon. This is because a natural fiber is renewable, sheep will continue growing wool at sustainable rates whereas the earth does not seem to be replenishing petroleum deposits as rapidly. Recycled content is the most sustainable as the raw product has already been created and it takes less energy to repurpose it than it does to source it raw. In the wool world, non-mulesed wool is preferred for animal welfare but is controversial. Mulesing wool is a process where wool-bearing skin is removed to prevent a parasitic infection. It is controversial because the process is considered by some as cruel and painful for the sheep. It is a practice that is generally being phased out in way of more humane alternatives.

Curious for more info on sustainability in apparel?
We found some great resources for learning more about the sustainability factors for fibers, fabrics, and materials used in apparel and footwear. One is the Higg Index, which is currently one of the most comprehensive rating systems in the industry regarding sustainability, from the extraction of raw materials, processing, manufacturing, shipping, waste, and recycling, taking a holistic approach to assessing this issue. Another is a 2018 study on the climate impact of the apparel and footwear industries, with a link to the full study at the bottom of the linked page.


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