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Arc'teryx Alpha FL Review

This hardshell is an alpine climber’s dream, and is really great for skiing as well
Arc'teryx Alpha FL
Photo: Arc'teryx
Editors' Choice Award
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Price:  $475 List | $419.00 at Amazon
Compare prices at 2 resellers
Pros:  Lightweight, form fitting, great storm hood, superior construction quality, reasonable price
Cons:  Crinkly and noisy, very little ventilation, few pockets, short front hem
Manufacturer:   Arc'teryx
By Jack Cramer & Matt Bento  ⋅  Nov 8, 2020
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80
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#2 of 15
  • Weather Protection - 30% 9
  • Weight - 20% 9
  • Mobility and Fit - 20% 7
  • Venting and Breathability - 20% 7
  • Features and Design - 10% 7

Our Verdict

The Arc'teryx Alpha FL is one of the most straightforward and best-constructed hardshell jackets that we have ever worn. In Arc'teryx's terminology, the Alpha line is climbing and alpinism focused; this includes features like a helmet-compatible hood, a crossover chest pocket that's accessible while wearing a pack or harness, maximum articulation, and an emphasis on minimal weight with maximum durability. The FL refers to Fast and Light, which the company translates to mean minimalist garments with a focus on high performance. In practice, this means the jacket lacks hand pockets or pit zips to trim weight. Arc'teryx incorporates all these design elements in a shell constructed with dependable Gore-Tex Pro fabric. Our biggest complaint is the shortness of the front hem because it doesn't stay reliably tucked into a climbing harness. All of the Alpha FL's other strengths, however, helped us see past this issue and convinced us to give it our Editors' Choice award for the eighth consecutive season.

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Overall Score Sort Icon
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Pros Lightweight, form fitting, great storm hood, superior construction quality, reasonable priceUnrivaled weather protection, decent venting options, perfect fitAwesome weather protection, fits great, very mobileSturdy, real weather protection, mobile athletic fit, pit zipsExtremely durable, superior weather protection, great hood, easy to manipulate zippers
Cons Crinkly and noisy, very little ventilation, few pockets, short front hemExpensive, not ultralight, mediocre breathabilitySkin pockets a bit too narrow, small ventilation zips, unreliable wrist cuffsHeavy, expensive, mediocre features for the weightHeavy, bulky, overkill for many, no handwarmer pockets, expensive
Bottom Line Stands out among some stiff competition with its simple and solid designOur favorite hardshell for serious adventuresTurns out a company known for skis and bindings also makes a great jacket for touringCasual styling and serious weather protectionAn expensive shell with exceptional weather protection
Rating Categories Arc'teryx Alpha FL Mammut Nordwand Advanced Dynafit Radical Outdoor Research Archangel Arc'teryx Alpha SV
Weather Protection (30%)
9
10
8
9
10
Weight (20%)
9
6
7
4
4
Mobility And Fit (20%)
7
8
8
8
6
Venting And Breathability (20%)
7
8
8
7
7
Features And Design (10%)
7
6
8
7
7
Specs Arc'teryx Alpha FL Mammut Nordwand... Dynafit Radical Outdoor Research... Arc'teryx Alpha SV
Pit Zips No Yes Yes Yes Yes
Measured Weight (size large) 11.8 oz 16.0 oz 15.4 oz 19.4 oz 18.4 oz
Material Gore-Tex with N40p-X face fabric 3-layer 100% nylon Gore-Tex Pro Gore-Tex Pro with C-Knit backer Gore-Tex Pro 3L, 70D nylon 3-layer Gore-Tex Pro N100p-X
Pockets 1 external chest, 1 internal chest 2 front, 1 internal 2 side handwarmer, 1 sleeve, 2 internal stash 2 hand, 1 internal 2 external chest, 1 internal chest, 1 sleeve, 1 internal mesh stash
Helmet Compatible Hood Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Hood Draw Cords 3 3 1 3 3
Adjustable Cuffs Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Two-Way Front Zipper No Yes Yes Yes No

Our Analysis and Test Results

Although the Alpha FL is one of our favorite hardshell jackets, it lacks a few features that some users will miss, such as underarm vents and hand pockets.

Performance Comparison


Another season of hardshell testing, and another Editors' Choice...
Another season of hardshell testing, and another Editors' Choice Award for the Arc'Teryx Alpha FL.
Photo: Jack Cramer

Weather Protection


This jacket comes close to perfection in terms of weather protection. Although we like the comfort offered by the neck cuff on the Arc'teryx Beta AR a bit better, we think the standard collar of the Alpha FL still does a great job of keeping precip out.


The storm hood is the best one we've tried, with three pull-cord adjustment points, one in the back and two in the front. Together these ensure a secure and comfortable fit with or without a helmet on. Additionally, the zippers on this premium hardshell are watertight and incredibly easy to operate.

Three months into testing, the 40-denier Gore-Tex Pro fabric was...
Three months into testing, the 40-denier Gore-Tex Pro fabric was still stopping every type of precip effortlessly.
Photo: Jack Cramer

The jacket is made entirely of 40-denier face fabric and Gore-Tex Pro, which offers excellent protection against rain, wind, and cold. This fabric, however, isn't quite as burly as the 100-denier material on the Alpha SV, but it's not as heavy either. The wrist cuffs are also a little slimmer, which means they are slightly more prone to accidental opening. These small critiques aside, the Alpha FL still offers exceptional weather protection overall.

The Acr'teryx Alpha FL living up to its reputation for unrivaled...
The Acr'teryx Alpha FL living up to its reputation for unrivaled weather protection for winter climbing.
Photo: Jack Cramer

Weight


A size large tipped our scale at 11.8 ounces, making it one of the lightest models in our review.


There are a few jackets that weigh fractions of an ounce less, but none of these lightweight rivals can boast close to the same level of durability.

The Alpha FL's stuff sack has a sewn loop that you can back up with...
The Alpha FL's stuff sack has a sewn loop that you can back up with the cinched drawstring for redundancy when clipping it to your harness.
Photo: Jack Cramer

This jacket comes with a handy nylon stuff sack. Although this sack adds a little weight (0.3 ounces) and it's one more thing to keep track of, we prefer it over stuffing a jacket into its pocket because the separate stuff sack offers an extra barrier to protect your expensive shell. It's also incredibly useful with a minimalist jacket like the Alpha FL because the jacket's limited venting abilities guarantee that you will be taking it on and off regularly to avoid sweating it out.

Mobility and Fit


Our head tester for this review is 6'2" tall and weighs 175 pounds. He has relatively broad shoulders but an otherwise skinny frame, and we ordered him a size large jacket for this review. It fit him well.


The athletic fit of the Alpha FL is excellent in the arms, shoulders, and chest, but it has a confusingly short hem in the front. Despite our best efforts, we noticed it frequently coming untucked from a climbing harness.

Although shorter folks didn't seem to notice, a short front hem is...
Although shorter folks didn't seem to notice, a short front hem is the chief complaint from this 6'2" tester, seen here in a size large.
Photo: Jack Cramer

This jacket is shaped according to Arc'teryx's Trim Fit — design guidelines that aim to keep garments low volume. In our tests, we found that it offered one of the best and most practical fits for climbing or backcountry skiing when you won't be wearing a ton of insulating layers underneath. However, there are much better options for lift-access skiing or low-intensity cold-weather activities when you want to bundle up more. As is typical with jackets that use a Gore-Tex Pro membrane, the jacket is mildly stiff and noisy when moving about.

Venting and Breathability


Like many jackets in this review, the Alpha FL uses a dependable Gore-Tex Pro waterproof-breathable membrane. To "breathe", the Pro membrane uses solid-state diffusion, which moves water trapped within the coat to the outside world.


For this to happen, the relative humidity inside the jacket must be higher than the corresponding humidity outside. In practical terms, this means that inside the jacket, you may feel hot and moist for the moisture exchange to occur. That is why many Gore-Tex jackets also incorporate pit zips to supplement with direct airflow ventilation.

Unfortunately, the Alpha FL lacks pit zips for venting excess heat...
Unfortunately, the Alpha FL lacks pit zips for venting excess heat. The Gore-Tex Pro fabric is also not particularly breathable. Neither is ideal for charging uphill in a storm.
Photo: Jack Cramer

Without pit zips or other methods of ventilation, we scored this jacket relatively low for venting and breathability. We found it hotter and sweatier during our stationary bike test than some of the jackets that incorporate air-permeable membranes, like Outdoor Research AscentShell or The North Face Futurelight fabrics. Honestly, this is one real drawback to this jacket, but it made little difference on cold days when we only worked hard intermittently. On warm days in the sun, this presents a much more significant problem, but it's easy to solve by taking the jacket off.

Features & Design


Designed with efficiency and weight savings in mind, the Alpha FL is a bit lacking in features, notably pit zips and handwarmer pockets. The features it has, however, are thoughtful and well-performing.


While some may consider limited features a drawback, we believe that it matches the intended use of the jacket: alpine climbing. Take the absence of handwarmer pockets, for example. Although these are awesome on a ski lift, they can be challenging to use and uncomfortable under a climbing harness. The storm hood is enormous and works pretty much perfectly with or without a helmet. The zippers are durable and super easy to pull with gloves on, which is a huge plus.

The Cohaesive cord locks and subtly sewn into the hem and pleasantly...
The Cohaesive cord locks and subtly sewn into the hem and pleasantly low profile. They're also super easy to use while wearing gloves.
Photo: Jack Cramer

The two cord lock buckles on the side of the hood, as well as the dual buckles on the hem, are Cohaesive cord locks. This is a huge positive because they're low profile, sewn inside the jacket where they can't snag, and very easy to release with gloves on. While we found the feature set nearly perfect for alpine climbing, it still works pretty well for skiing. The most important caveat is that it doesn't include the vents common in most ski-specific jackets, but in Colorado and California, we just took it off if the going got too hot, and when we needed it for storm protection, this was never a factor.

Our testers appreciate the functional yet ergonomic fit of the hood...
Our testers appreciate the functional yet ergonomic fit of the hood, regardless of whether they have a helmet on or not.
Photo: Jack Cramer

Value


Hardshells aren't cheap, and the Alpha FL certainly isn't. However, if you need a real a hardshell, you're going to have to shell out some serious cash. When you do, you can rest assured that you're getting a great value with this jacket. It's possible to spend double the money on one of its competitors, but it's impossible to find better all-around upper body protection.

Conclusion


The Arc'teryx Alpha FL is a top-quality, high-performing hardshell with exceptional engineering and design. It is the quintessential hardshell: lightweight and durable yet supplying incredible weather protection. It also fits pretty much perfectly. For eight years running, it has been our Editors' Choice Award winner, and for good reason. It's a solid choice for anyone aspiring to go fast and light in the mountains.

Jack Cramer & Matt Bento