Arc'teryx Alpha SV Review

Although we believe that lighter-weight jackets are the ideal choice for the vast majority of outdoor activities, there are still some circumstances when you might want something truly tough, such as long expeditions to remote places with severe weather. Enter the Arc'teryx Alpha SV, which is a durable heavy-duty hardshell with an outstanding track record.

Performance Comparison

Weather Protection

The SV in Alpha SV stands for severe, and that's exactly the type of weather this jacket is good for. Its 100-denier Gore-Tex Pro fabric is exceptionally waterproof, and the durable water-repellent (DWR) treatment continued to bead water consistently three months into our tests. At first, the hood may feel a little baggy without a helmet on, but tighten the rear drawcord, and it snugs right up.

In our shower test, the hood proved effective at directing water away from the tester's face in part thanks to the sturdy reinforced three-inch brim. The hook-and-loop wrist cuffs also provide a reliable closure that keeps the sleeves in place during a variety of movements. The thick fabric effectively cuts through the cold, driving wind on exposed chairlift rides. This jacket represents the pinnacle of weather protection.

Weight

One of the drawbacks to the Alpha SV's considerable weather protection is some added weight and bulk. At 18.4 ounces for a size large, it's one of the heaviest jackets in our hardshell review. This is obviously a problem for long-distance adventures or drier climates where you end up carrying a hardshell more often than wearing one. However, in winter storms, we never regretted carrying the extra ounces to have this jacket at our disposal.

The main fabric is more protective than other jackets because the threads are thicker and, therefore, heavier. This leads to increased durability in addition to weather protection. We don't hesitate to scuff against rocks on an alpine climb or to ski through tight trees while wearing this jacket, but this would give us pause in other jackets, including the best on the market. If you are particularly hard on your jackets, or don't want to think about how you treat them, then this jacket is probably worth the extra two ounces or so compared to the best overall hard shell jackets. But for the occasional light-and-fast mission, we'll reach for something else.

Mobility and Fit

The Alpha SV has a noticeably more roomy cut than most other hardshells. This can make it look less than stylish on skinny folks or anyone only wearing thin baselayers underneath. Our distaste for this billowy fit disappears, however, when we add extra mid-layers or tuck it into a climbing harness. In these cases, the fit of the Alpha SV feels a lot better, and our climbing testers praised the freedom of movement it offered while remaining tucked in.

After wearing the jacket a bit more, we came to respect how the roomy-feeling fit allows for acrobatic movement while climbing and skiing, and yet the extra material doesn't get in the way or feel baggy. This jacket is truly a technical masterpiece for wintery conditions. That said, it does feel too baggy if used as a rain jacket in front-country activities, and the thick material quickly becomes irritating if you don't need its protection.

Venting and Breathability

At 100-denier, the Gore-Tex Pro fabric on the Alpha SV is thicker than lower denier Gore-Tex Pro fabrics found on many other hardshells. In our stationary bike test, this thicker fabric also felt less breathable. This jacket manages to negate this drawback to some degree with the inclusion of large underarm vents for shedding excess heat. These help a bit, but for sustained high-intensity activities, choose a different shell or plan to get sweaty.

Even with the same waterproof/ breathable membrane (like Gore-Tex Pro), there is a breathability difference between jackets, usually based on the thickness of the threads used in the main outer shell fabric. This jacket prioritizes durability and weather resistance, and breathability suffers as a result. This jacket is built for cold, windy, and high-precipitation environments when weather protection is more valuable than breathability. If you do a lot of high-output winter activities, this jacket won't be the only hardshell you'll need.

Features and Design

Without the restrictions of ultralightweight targets, the designers of the Alpha SV had the freedom to add a few nice features. Besides the large pit zips that boost your venting options, other design features we appreciate are the large chest pockets with central zippers (compared to zippers on the sides of the chest) that are easy to use. We also love the sleeve pocket for resort skiing, which makes using an RFID pass card a breeze.

The internal pockets are also useful and include one internal chest zippered pocket and an internal mesh stash pocket. What it doesn't have is hand pockets, but that's okay with us because it leaves the jacket smooth across the waist where a backpack belt or climbing harness rubs. The excellent hood has four adjustment points to help tailor the fit around your chosen headwear.

Should You Buy the Arc'teryx Alpha SV?

If you are looking for a jacket that can stand up to the harshest winter weather on the ski hill, backcountry, or high alpine climbs and will likely last you a significant portion of your climbing or skiing career, then yes, you should buy this jacket. It costs a fortune and is probably overkill compared to most other hardshells, but if you need the protection and durability, then this jacket is worth the investment. If you need a jacket for light to moderate use in bad weather and you don't need better-than-average durability, save your money for a less expensive (and more versatile) shell.

What Other Hardshell Jackets Should You Consider?

If you are looking for a durable hardshell jacket for resort and backcountry skiing but don't need the technical cut for alpine climbing, we recommend the Arc'teryx Rush in our ski jacket category. The Norrona Trollveggen Gore-Tex Pro Light is our favorite overall hardshell jacket, thanks to its versatility and lighter weight, and the Mammut Nordwand Advanced is another top pick for any condition. If you are turned off by the price tag of all of these jackets, check out the Patagonia Triolet, which is a tried-and-true, relatively durable, and weatherproof hardshell.