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Scarpa Veloce Review

An ultra-soft shoe that's ideal for a gym or bouldering session
Scarpa Veloce
Photo: Backcountry
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Price:  $139 List | $138.95 at Backcountry
Compare prices at 3 resellers
Pros:  Super sensitive, roomy fit, easy on/off, affordable
Cons:  Blunt toe, limited protection, too roomy for low volume feet
Manufacturer:   Scarpa
By Jack Cramer ⋅ Review Editor  ⋅  Jun 16, 2020
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74
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#21 of 34
  • Edging - 20% 7
  • Cracks - 20% 6
  • Comfort - 20% 8
  • Pockets - 20% 6
  • Sensitivity - 20% 10

Our Verdict

If you've longed for a better feel with the rock, but weren't ready to become a fully barefoot hippie, then the Scarpa Veloce is here to answer your prayers. It's one of the absolute softest climbing shoes we've ever tried, and it supplies sensitivity that borders on extraordinary. The price is also affordable, which makes it a great choice for any obsessive boulderer or gym climber who burns through rubber as fast as their paycheck. Its principal drawbacks are subpar crack climbing performance and a blunt toe that's reluctant to fit into small pockets. Nevertheless, there's plenty to like about this supple slipper and we recommend it to anyone seeking the Shangri-la of climbing shoe sensitivity.

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Overall Score Sort Icon
74
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84
Star Rating
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Pros Super sensitive, roomy fit, easy on/off, affordableVersatile, durable, comfortableGreat precision, aggressive/down turned toe tip, sensitive, great toe and heel hooking, precise fit, comfortable, easy on/offIncredible sensitivity, great edging, durabilityBest edging shoe on the market
Cons Blunt toe, limited protection, too roomy for low volume feetExpensiveNot comfortable for all-day climbing, expensive, not the most versatile, hard to fit, single strap broke prematurelySpecalized use, expensive, might be hard to resoleExpensive
Bottom Line A gym and bouldering shoe that supplies supreme sensitivityAn awesome shoe for long climbs requiring a variety of crack climbing and edging techniquesA tried and true modern classic, this model excels while steep and technical climbingAn incredibly sensitive and comfortable shoe that excels at edgingThis high performance model is the ultimate balance of support and sensitivity
Rating Categories Scarpa Veloce La Sportiva Katana Lace La Sportiva Solution La Sportiva Futura La Sportiva Genius
Edging (20%)
7
9
9
9
10
Cracks (20%)
6
9
8
7
6
Comfort (20%)
8
9
7
7
7
Pockets (20%)
6
8
9
9
9
Sensitivity (20%)
10
8
9
10
10
Specs Scarpa Veloce La Sportiva Katana... La Sportiva Solution La Sportiva Futura La Sportiva Genius
Style Velcro Lace Velcro Velcro Lace
Upper Synthetic Leather/Lorica Leather / Lorica Leather/Synthetic Leather Suede leather / Microfiber
Width Options Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular
Lining None Pacific (forefoot and back) HF in toe box and arch area only Unlined Unlined
Rubber Type S-72 Vibram XS Edge Vibram XS Grip 2 Vibram XS Grip2 Vibram XS Grip2
Rubber Thickness (millimeters) 4 mm 4 mm 4 mm 3 mm 3 mm

Our Analysis and Test Results

We've tested plenty of one-strap velcro climbing shoes. What really sets the Scarpa Veloce apart is the extreme softness of its grey midsole. It's so soft that you can easily bend the shoe in half using only a thumb and pinkie. That means you get extraordinary sensitivity, however, you're probably limited to bouldering or short routes for all but the strongest of feet.

Performance Comparison


The Veloce is extremely flexible across its long axis, as shown, and...
The Veloce is extremely flexible across its long axis, as shown, and also across its short axis -- a rarity for a climbing shoe.
Photo: Jack Cramer

Edging


To lock your foot in place, the Veloce utilizes an elastic tongue and a single, zig-zagging velcro strap. When fully tensioned, these measures were effective for keeping the shoe secure to facilitate reasonable edging performance. Testers with low volume feet, however, complained that the velcro strap is too long. In their cases, only a small fraction of the 3 inches velcro on the strap would engage with the corresponding velcro patch on the shoe. Although this limited contact was still able to lock their feet in place, the excess strap material is prone to snagging on obstacles and getting pulled undone.

As you can see here, anyone with low-volume feet is left with a...
As you can see here, anyone with low-volume feet is left with a couple inches of excess velcro strap.
Photo: Jack Cramer

Crack Climbing


The downturn angle and supple midsole make the Veloce less than ideal for crack climbing. The downturn causes your toes to curl, which makes narrower jams unnecessarily painful. Meanwhile, the ultra-soft sole provides virtually zero support for foot jams in hand-size and large cracks. The rand rubber, however, does extend somewhat on to the top of the shoe, which boosts grip and durability while crack climbing.

Although this tester isn't very flexible, the Veloces definitely...
Although this tester isn't very flexible, the Veloces definitely are. The softness of the heel also supplies plenty of sensitivity for heel hooks.
Photo: Jack Cramer

Pockets


These shoes have several features that make them well-suited for the steeps. The ultra-soft midsole gives your foot extraordinary freedom to flex and improve the angles for pulling your lower body into the wall. The extended rand supplies rubber on the upper to enhance friction and protection for radical toe hooks. For true pocket climbing, however, the Veloce does have some shortcomings. The toe box isn't exactly pointy. Instead it's tall and broad which greatly restricts the size of pockets in can get into. For general bouldering and steeps, this is a great shoe, but it's less effective for routes with a lot of small pockets.

The softness of the Veloce can increase foot fatigue, but it ensures...
The softness of the Veloce can increase foot fatigue, but it ensures you can feel every subtlety of a foothold.
Photo: Jack Cramer

Sensitivity


These are a rare pair of climbing shoes that approach the feeling of a rubber sock. The back half of these borderline sock-shoe hybrids — from the arch to the heel — is extremely soft and will fully conform to the shape and movements of your foot. Up front, there's 4 mm of S-72 rubber that dampens sensitivity by a smidge. But after a brief break-in period, the Veloce felt like some of the most sensitive shoes we've ever tested. You really can feel every tiny undulation on a hold, which is great for gym climbing or bouldering. Those with weaker feet, however, may find that the unmatched sensitivity makes them too painful to wear for long climbing sessions.

The limited support of these shoes means that they're best for...
The limited support of these shoes means that they're best for bouldering or steep sport climbs where you don't have to spend too much time on your feet.
Photo: Jack Cramer

Comfort


For short durations, these shoes provide outstanding comfort. The soft, wide sole ensures that they can handle a large variety of foot types with low-risk of constrictions or pressure points. This softness, however, is a double-edged sword that could quickly amplify pain and foot fatigue if you're foolish enough to wear these shoes on a long, sustained route. In other words, the Veloce are exceptionally comfortable for bouldering, but likely to lead to agony on a techy outdoor project or any multi-pitch climb.

Value


These shoes are priced above the bargain category but below ultra-premium. At this position, we think they're a pretty awesome deal. Although slim-footed shoppers and crack climbers should steer clear, anyone with a serious bouldering addiction could save some cash by switching to these shoes.

The Veloces occupy a nice middle ground between bargain and premium...
The Veloces occupy a nice middle ground between bargain and premium prices.
Photo: Jack Cramer

Conclusion


Ultra-soft climbing shoes are not ideal for every situation or climber. However, if the type of climbing you prefer demands maximum sensitivity, while still supplying ample opportunities to rest your feet, then the Veloce is an affordable shoe to consider. These bouldering beasts are best suited for those with the foot strength to match their massive forearms.

Jack Cramer