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Scarpa Instinct Lace Review

A solid shoe for many situations and rock types
Scarpa Instinct Lace
Photo: Backcountry
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Price:  $179 List | $143.16 at Amazon
Pros:  Awesome at edging, roomy enough for wide feet, decent sensitivity
Cons:  Expensive, broad imprecise toe, modestly supportive sole
Manufacturer:   Scarpa
By Jack Cramer ⋅ Review Editor  ⋅  Mar 18, 2020
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80
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#13 of 34
  • Edging - 20% 8
  • Cracks - 20% 7
  • Comfort - 20% 9
  • Pockets - 20% 7
  • Sensitivity - 20% 9

Our Verdict

Everyone's feet are different, and the reality is that some of our favorite climbing shoes simply won't fit comfortably on all feet. For anyone with wide feet seeking a great all-around shoe, there's the Scarpa Instinct Lace. It features a supportive forefoot and moderate downturn that focus lots of power through the toe for outstanding edging. Although its blunt toe is less ideal for utilizing small pockets, our tests indicate that its a more comfortable shape for anyone with a second toe that extends past their big one. This is one of the favorite shoes among our testers with high-volume feet, and we highly recommend it for all kinds of climbing, especially techy off-vertical testpieces.

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Overall Score Sort Icon
80
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84
Star Rating
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Pros Awesome at edging, roomy enough for wide feet, decent sensitivityVersatile, durable, comfortableGreat precision, aggressive/down turned toe tip, sensitive, great toe and heel hooking, precise fit, comfortable, easy on/offIncredible sensitivity, great edging, durabilityBest edging shoe on the market
Cons Expensive, broad imprecise toe, modestly supportive soleExpensiveNot comfortable for all-day climbing, expensive, not the most versatile, hard to fit, single strap broke prematurelySpecalized use, expensive, might be hard to resoleExpensive
Bottom Line An all-around great shoe that's suitable for many types of rockAn awesome shoe for long climbs requiring a variety of crack climbing and edging techniquesA tried and true modern classic, this model excels while steep and technical climbingAn incredibly sensitive and comfortable shoe that excels at edgingThis high performance model is the ultimate balance of support and sensitivity
Rating Categories Scarpa Instinct Lace La Sportiva Katana Lace La Sportiva Solution La Sportiva Futura La Sportiva Genius
Edging (20%)
8
9
9
9
10
Cracks (20%)
7
9
8
7
6
Comfort (20%)
9
9
7
7
7
Pockets (20%)
7
8
9
9
9
Sensitivity (20%)
9
8
9
10
10
Specs Scarpa Instinct Lace La Sportiva Katana... La Sportiva Solution La Sportiva Futura La Sportiva Genius
Style Lace Lace Velcro Velcro Lace
Upper Leather Leather/Lorica Leather / Lorica Leather/Synthetic Leather Suede leather / Microfiber
Width Options Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular
Lining None Pacific (forefoot and back) HF in toe box and arch area only Unlined Unlined
Rubber Type Vibram XS Edge Vibram XS Edge Vibram XS Grip 2 Vibram XS Grip2 Vibram XS Grip2
Rubber Thickness (millimeters) 3.5 mm 4 mm 4 mm 3 mm 3 mm

Our Analysis and Test Results

Although the La Sportiva Katana Lace is our favorite all-around rock climbing shoe, it has a narrower midsole that's not suitable for all feet. The Scarpa Instinct Lace features a similar shape, downturn angle, and closure mechanism, but with wider dimensions in the midsole. If you find the Katana too narrow for your feet, the Instinct Lace is an excellent alternative.

Performance Comparison


The toe box on the Instinct Lace is longest at the center, which...
The toe box on the Instinct Lace is longest at the center, which should improve comfort if your second toe extends past your big toe.
Photo: Jack Cramer

Edging


The Instinct Lace is fitted with 3.5 mm of Vibram XS Edge rubber at the forefoot that supplies plenty of support for edging on the smallest of features. Its moderate downturn puts your foot in a curled posture that focuses extra power through your toe on both the slabs and steeps. The most significant difference between this shoe and similar models from La Sportiva is the bendy Flexion midsole and heel. This supple material supplies extra sensitivity for the back of your foot, but it reduces overall support and may accelerate foot fatigue during long, taxing leads.

You can get plenty of edging performance from the stiff forefoot of...
You can get plenty of edging performance from the stiff forefoot of these shoes.
Photo: Jack Cramer

Crack Climbing


Although the Instinct Lace isn't designed specifically for crack climbing, it performs admirably well at the pursuit. Its wide midsole and modest downturn ensure that your feet and toes remain in a relatively neutral position, which reduces pain during torqued crack jams. Meanwhile, this shoe's technical prowess allows you to exploit marginal seams or face holds when the crack disappears at the crux of higher-end trad routes. However, we believe this shoe has two deficiencies compared to other similar models: a tall toe box and insufficient lace protection. The height of the toe box means it's harder to squeeze more rubber inside thin cracks (narrower than 0.75"), while the unguarded laces mean that you'll need to replace them frequently if you climb a lot of cracks.

The minimal material on the heel allowed for ample sensitivity while...
The minimal material on the heel allowed for ample sensitivity while heel hooking.
Photo: Jack Cramer

Pockets


The rubber on the rand extends to cover the top of this shoe's toe. This provides extra grip and protection for toe hooks so you can keep your body close to the well when things get truly steep. We're also fans of the heel design. It's covered in a combination of sticky rubber (black) and Flexion (orange) that together supply loads of grip without adding too much material to sacrifice sensitivity. The toe of the shoe is pointy laterally to enable it to sneak inside slim pockets. However, the tall height of the toe box is a hindrance to getting them inside some types of pockets. Overall, we think this is an effective shoe for most steep and pocketed climbing.

Although the forefoot is stiff, the Instinct Lace is fairly flexible...
Although the forefoot is stiff, the Instinct Lace is fairly flexible through the midsole.
Photo: Jack Cramer

Sensitivity


The lace-up Instict's awesomeness at edging is partially due to its stiff forefoot. This stiffness, unfortunately, reduces sensitivity by a modest degree. We were still able to detect small micro features, but the sensation is not as strong as with an ultra-soft slipper design. From the arch to the heel sensitivity is higher because the construction changes from 3.5 mm of sticky rubber to 1.0 mm of Flexion. This thinner material also gave us greater freedom to flex our feet and adjust their position to the angle of the terrain.

The combination of a moderate downturn and stiff toe box means these...
The combination of a moderate downturn and stiff toe box means these shoes are well-suited for techy sport climbing.
Photo: Jack Cramer

Comfort


The lacing system on the Instinct supplies plenty of flexibility to tweak to fit for different foot shapes. Our wide-footed testers were particularly pleased with the ample roominess of the midfoot that provided a welcome respite from days of testing other uncomfortably narrow shoes. We were also pleased with the stiff support in the forefoot when we had to hang out on tiny holds as we tried to decipher intricate sequences above. Comfort-wise, the only drawback may be the softness of the midsole which can contribute slightly to premature foot fatigue.

Although we think these shoes perform great at bouldering, we...
Although we think these shoes perform great at bouldering, we imagine some shoppers will be frustrated with the inconvenience of lace-up closure compared to velcro.
Photo: Jack Cramer

Value


The Instinct Lace is a premium shoe with a correspondingly premium price. That's okay, though, because its performance far exceeds the cost. We think they're every bit as good as other similarly priced shoes, and we've also seen them on sale on occasion. If you're able to find them for any discount, you'll be getting an absolutely great deal.

Conclusion


A stiff, moderately downturn climbing shoe has a myriad of applications, and the Scarpa Instinct Lace is no exception. We think its edging prowess, paired with its impressive sensitivity, makes it an ideal shoe for techy sport and trad climbs. It's especially great for anyone with wide feet that has struggled to find a comfortable fit from other manufacturers. Despite the high price, we think this a perfect shoe for proficient climbers that are eager to jump up a grade.

Jack Cramer