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La Sportiva Miura VS Review

This is one of the stiffest shoes out there and is a secret weapon against tiny edges
La Sportiva Miura VS
Photo: www.sportiva.com
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Price:  $185 List | Check Price at REI
Compare prices at 3 resellers
Pros:  Excellent edging, stiff, excellent in pockets
Cons:  Uncomfortable, not the most sensitive
Manufacturer:   La Sportiva
By Matt Bento ⋅ Senior Review Editor  ⋅  May 4, 2021
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72
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#20 of 29
  • Edging - 20% 9
  • Cracks - 20% 6
  • Comfort - 20% 6
  • Steep Terrain - 20% 9
  • Sensitivity - 20% 6

Our Verdict

The La Sportiva Miura VS belongs in the world of tough climbing, where it can use its diamond-hard edges and almost absurdly asymmetric shape to power down on invisible rock features. Compared to the lace-up Miura, this Velcro version is more geared to boulders and overhanging terrain. For it to perform in this capacity, it must be sized tightly, and by tight, it might mean painfully so. But to push the climbing grades you sometimes have to sacrifice comfort. To be sure these precision tools won't be too painful for your feet, be sure to try them on before you buy them.

Compare to Similar Products

 
La Sportiva Miura VS
Awards  Editors' Choice Award Top Pick Award Best Buy Award Best Buy Award 
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$185.00 at Backcountry
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Overall Score Sort Icon
72
88
84
70
64
Star Rating
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Pros Excellent edging, stiff, excellent in pocketsVersatile, stiff, durable, comfortableExtremely precise toe, extra heel sensitivity, comfortable for an aggressive shoeComfortable design, respectable edging, low-profile toe, excellent priceAffordable, flat midsole is comfortable all day, well-balanced performance across many areas
Cons Uncomfortable, not the most sensitiveExpensive, limited sensitivityPricey, tall toe box, too narrow for some feetMediocre precision, subpar on the steeps, somewhat insensitiveInsensitive, imprecise fit, ineffective design for steep terrain
Bottom Line This is one of the stiffest shoes out there and is a secret weapon against tiny edgesThis stiff shoe is an all-day crack climbing workhorse that also performs well on edges and slabsAn ultra-high-end shoe that could put you on the podium of your climbing competitionDecent overall climbing performance at an affordable price make these a sold choiceAn entry-level shoe ideal for beginners that comes at an awesomely low price
Rating Categories La Sportiva Miura VS La Sportiva Katana... La Sportiva Solutio... La Sportiva Finale La Sportiva Tarantu...
Edging (20%)
9.0
10.0
9.0
7.0
6.0
Cracks (20%)
6.0
9.0
7.0
7.0
7.0
Comfort (20%)
6.0
9.0
8.0
8.0
8.0
Steep Terrain (20%)
9.0
8.0
10.0
6.0
5.0
Sensitivity (20%)
6.0
8.0
8.0
7.0
6.0
Specs La Sportiva Miura VS La Sportiva Katana... La Sportiva Solutio... La Sportiva Finale La Sportiva Tarantu...
Style Velcro Lace Velcro Lace Lace
Upper Leather Leather/Lorica Leather / microfiber Leather / microfiber Leather/Synthetic
Width Options Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular
Lining Synthetic Pacific (forefoot and back) Pacific, lycra Unlined None
Rubber Type Vibram XS Edge Vibram XS Edge Vibram XS Grip2 Vibram XS Edge FriXion RS
Rubber Thickness (millimeters) 4 mm 4 mm 4 mm 5 mm 5 mm

Our Analysis and Test Results

Performance Comparison


Climbing in the specialized La Sportiva Miura VS.
Climbing in the specialized La Sportiva Miura VS.
Photo: Lyra Pierotti

Edging


The Miura VS is a function-specific shoe that does a few things incredibly well, such as edging. The supportive P3 midsole lets you power down through your toes on the tiniest of features. It edges well on all sides of the toe, allowing you to utilize the outside edge and turn your hips into the wall to increase your reach when necessary. The downturned toe sucks the foot into the rock and works well even when the moves stretch you out. Few shoes even come close to the edging ability of the VS, leaving it in a category to a large extent by itself. This model is one of the stiffest shoes we've ever worn that's not board-lasted.

Crack Climbing


You can get away with climbing a few cracks in this shoe, but it won't be very comfortable. This shoe is not designed or intended for use in cracks, as the triple buckle system gets in the way and will suffer some wear and tear if jammed frequently into hand cracks. The toe is low volume and pointy, though, and can gain modest purchase in thin cracks and pods. In other words, it's not bad for trad cragging; it's just not our first choice for long days on the big stone.

The Evolv Shaman is a similar concept to the Miura VS, but much more...
The Evolv Shaman is a similar concept to the Miura VS, but much more comfortable.

Steep Terrain


This shoe is meant to do a couple of things well, and steep terrain is one of them. The edging power and low-volume toe make great use of pockets of all sizes. The steeper, the better. The downturned shape hooks into pockets with an ease that belies the discomfort of wearing them. Only a couple of shoes can rival it on pockets, and they all have pointier and even more painful toe profiles. For more general overhanging terrain, the Miura VS does pretty well. The heel is a little less sensitive than we would like, and it lacks an extended rand for extra toe hooking grip.

Sensitivity


You can't paste your toes and smear the rock very well in this shoe, but you can stand on invisible micro features and crank. The Miura VS makes up for feeling a little like a brick on your foot by being an edging machine. After some breaking in, they start to feel more sensitive than they do out of the box. There are times when you'll miss being able to feel the rock, but this is still an incredibly adept climbing shoe.

Comfort


If you size these shoes tight, they're gonna hurt, and there's no getting around that. Our lead tester went up a half size from his normal La Sportiva sizing before he could comfortably climb a full pitch in these shoes. The low volume toe that fits nicely in thin cracks presses down hard on the top of the big toe and may hurt if you size down too small. The buckle can also be an issue if the shoe isn't sized just right. One of our testers felt the buckle pushing hard on the top of his foot whenever he flexed his foot into a smearing position.

The flatter fit of the original Miura (left) makes them a better...
The flatter fit of the original Miura (left) makes them a better all-arounder and generally more comfortable than the Miura VS (right).

Value


This shoe does as advertised and climbs hard. Its value is in how you use it. If you want a shoe that will let you climb at your limit, then the Miura VS is an excellent option. It is durable, but it loses some of its phenomenal edging ability after it's worn in.

Conclusion


Though the Miura VS is a great shoe, like all things climbing, and in particular, things that go on your feet, it has to work for you. In the pursuit of the perfect-for-you-fit, this pair is worthy of consideration.

Matt Bento