La Sportiva Miura VS Review
Compare prices at 3 resellers Pros: Excellent edging, stiff, excellent in pockets
Cons: Uncomfortable, not the most sensitive
Manufacturer: La Sportiva
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Our Analysis and Test Results
The Miura VS is a function specific shoe and does a few things, like edging, incredibly well. The P3 midsole lets you power down through your toes on the tiniest of features. It edges well on all sides of the toe, enabling you to turn your hips into the wall and increase your reach. The down turned toe sucks the foot into the rock and works well even when the climber is stretched out. Few shoes even come close to the edging ability of the VS, leaving it in a category to a large extent by itself. This model is one of the stiffest shoes we've ever worn that wasn't board lasted.
You can get away with climbing a few cracks in this shoe, but it will probably hurt. This shoe is not designed or intended for use in cracks, as the triple buckle system gets in the way, and will suffer some wear and tear if jammed frequently into hand cracks. The toe is low volume and pointy though and can gain purchase in thin cracks and pods, so it's not bad for trad bragging, it's just not our first choice for long days on the big stone.
This shoe is meant to do a couple of things, and pockets are one of them. The edging power and low-volume toe make great use of pockets of all sizes. The steeper, the better. The Miura VS hooks into pockets with an ease that belies the discomfort of wearing them. Only a couple shoes can rival it, and they all have pointier, and even more painful, toe profiles.
You won't paste your toes on Braille up the rock in this shoe. You will stand on invisible features and crank. The Miura VS makes up for feeling a little like a brick on your foot by being an edging machine. After some breaking in, they start to feel more sensitive than they do out of the box. There are times when you'll miss being able to feel the rock, but this is still an incredibly adept climbing shoe.
If you size these shoes tight, they're gonna hurt, and there's no getting around it. Our lead tester went up a half size from his normal La Sportiva sizing before he could comfortably climb a full pitch in these shoes. The low volume toe that can fit in thin cracks presses down hard on the top of the big toe, and may hurt if you size down. The buckle can also be an issue if the shoe isn't sized just right. One of our testers felt the buckle pushing hard on to the top of his foot whenever he flexed his foot into the smearing position.
This shoe does as advertised, and climbs hard. Its value is in how you use it. If you want a shoe that will let you climb at your limit, then the Miura VS is an excellent option. It is durable, but it loses some of that phenomenal edging ability once it's worn in.
Though the Miura VS is a great shoe, like all things climbing, and in particular, things that go on your feet, it has to work for you. In the pursuit for the perfect-for-you-fit, this pair is worthy of consideration.
— Matt Bento