Hands-on Gear Review

Five Ten Galileo Review

Five Ten Galileo
Price:  $135 List
Pros:  Great edging, sticky rubber.
Cons:  Expensive, not the most sensitive.
Editors' Rating:   
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Manufacturer:   Five Ten

Our Verdict

Five Ten discontinued the Galileo in 2014.

This is a stiff and supportive, high performance shoe with a similar pointed toe design as the Five Ten Anasazi VCS (Velcro) model. It offers very precise front point edging that translates to great performance in small pockets and micro edges. It is stiff and precise.

However, that awesome edging comes from a stiffness that makes them a little less sensitive than the Five Ten Anasazi VCS. Overall we like the Anasazi VCS a little better and it's cheaper. But if you really want super precise edging, this shoe is hard to beat. Another shoe to compare it against is the La Sportiva Miura VS.


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Our Analysis and Test Results

Review by:
Chris McNamara and Chris Summit

Last Updated:
Sunday
April 25, 2010

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Likes


The Five Ten Galileo excels at edging on little, precise front point edges. We also like the heel fit that seems to be better than the Five Ten Anasazi VCS. It has nice beefy and durable Velcro straps.

Dislikes


These are a little stiff at first and not as sensitive as other climbing shoes. That is the tradeoff for them being such great edging shoes.

Best Application


These excel at steep edging on sport climbs and bouldering. For example, the Buttermilks in Bishop where precise edging is often much more important than sensitivity and smearing.

Value


These are not cheap. But they are some of the more durable Velcro shoes we have used.
Chris McNamara and Chris Summit

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Most recent review: September 23, 2014
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:  
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 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:  
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 (4.3)

100% of 3 reviewers recommend it
 
Rating Distribution
4 Total Ratings
5 star: 25%  (1)
4 star: 75%  (3)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)

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   Sep 23, 2014 - 12:28am
Srbphoto · Climber · Kennewick wa
so far, so good. I have used them for a couple of weeks in the gym. Super sticky and soft feeling rubber but great edging. They give extra confidence for my feet. I sized them in my shoe size and it was right.

I like a little bit stiffer shoe so these are right down my alley. Waiting to get them outside before I would give them a 5.

BONUS: I picked them up from Sierra Trading Post for $65. At that price they should get 11 stars!

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

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   Mar 7, 2012 - 12:54pm
Scott Eagan
This is my go to shoe for Smith Rock. I wear a size 13/14 in street shoes (depending on mfg). I bought a size 13 in these shoes and I love em, I can climb 100 foot routes and I don't have to immediately take my shoes off. These are not sensitive shoes, which is nice when you are standing in 1/4" holds (and smaller!) you forget how small the holds are for your feet and you can can concentrate on the moves ahead!

If you need a shoe for vertical-techy routes this is the shoe for you, anything steeper you'll want something more aggressive like the Arrowhead or Miura VCS, anything slabbier and you should go with the Anasazi VCS or Miura Laceup.

For me this is a shoe that works best for one thing: vertical routes with small footholds.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
Climber

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   Aug 10, 2010 - 03:36pm
climboard · Climber · Clifton, VA
The Anasazi velcros used to be my favorites but I gave them up after trying this shoe. They climb very much like the Anasazis but edge a good bit better. I have not noticed a loss of sensitivity compared to the Anasazis.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.


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