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Five Ten Anasazi VCS Review

This classic model is a great choice for beginners who want a shoe that will offer good performance as their technique improves
Five Ten Anasazi VCS
Photo: FiveTen.com
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Price:  $165 List | Check Price at Backcountry
Compare prices at 2 resellers
Pros:  Very sensitive, very sticky rubber, solid all-arounder
Cons:  Not the best edging shoe, velcro can hurt in cracks
Manufacturer:   Five Ten
By Matt Bento ⋅ Senior Review Editor  ⋅  May 5, 2021
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70
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#23 of 29
  • Edging - 20% 8
  • Cracks - 20% 6
  • Comfort - 20% 7
  • Steep Terrain - 20% 6
  • Sensitivity - 20% 8

Our Verdict

The Five Ten Anasazi VCS is a hyper-precise all-around crusher that doesn't hurt so much you want to throw it off a cliff. Eminently comfortable without being sloppy, these shoes manage to be both decently stiff and sensitive. They sacrifice a little in the edging department for their impressive sensitivity and incredibly sticky rubber. This shoe allows the climber to feel virtually every feature in the rock, making even micro features feel like ledges. They offer all the sensitivity of your gym socks with enough rigidity for standing in the gnarliest of cracks. On anything other than the worst foot jams, you probably won't even notice the velcro.

Compare to Similar Products

 
Five Ten Anasazi VCS
Awards  Editors' Choice Award Top Pick Award Best Buy Award Best Buy Award 
Price Check Price at Backcountry
Compare at 2 sellers
$195.00 at REI
Compare at 3 sellers
Check Price at REI
Compare at 3 sellers
Check Price at REI
Compare at 3 sellers
$85.00 at REI
Compare at 3 sellers
Overall Score Sort Icon
70
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64
Star Rating
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Pros Very sensitive, very sticky rubber, solid all-arounderVersatile, stiff, durable, comfortableExtremely precise toe, extra heel sensitivity, comfortable for an aggressive shoeComfortable design, respectable edging, low-profile toe, excellent priceAffordable, flat midsole is comfortable all day, well-balanced performance across many areas
Cons Not the best edging shoe, velcro can hurt in cracksExpensive, limited sensitivityPricey, tall toe box, too narrow for some feetMediocre precision, subpar on the steeps, somewhat insensitiveInsensitive, imprecise fit, ineffective design for steep terrain
Bottom Line This classic model is a great choice for beginners who want a shoe that will offer good performance as their technique improvesThis stiff shoe is an all-day crack climbing workhorse that also performs well on edges and slabsAn ultra-high-end shoe that could put you on the podium of your climbing competitionDecent overall climbing performance at an affordable price make these a sold choiceAn entry-level shoe ideal for beginners that comes at an awesomely low price
Rating Categories Five Ten Anasazi VCS La Sportiva Katana... La Sportiva Solutio... La Sportiva Finale La Sportiva Tarantu...
Edging (20%)
8.0
10.0
9.0
7.0
6.0
Cracks (20%)
6.0
9.0
7.0
7.0
7.0
Comfort (20%)
7.0
9.0
8.0
8.0
8.0
Steep Terrain (20%)
6.0
8.0
10.0
6.0
5.0
Sensitivity (20%)
8.0
8.0
8.0
7.0
6.0
Specs Five Ten Anasazi VCS La Sportiva Katana... La Sportiva Solutio... La Sportiva Finale La Sportiva Tarantu...
Style Velcro Lace Velcro Lace Lace
Upper Leather Leather/Lorica Leather / microfiber Leather / microfiber Leather/Synthetic
Width Options Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular
Lining Synthetic Pacific (forefoot and back) Pacific, lycra Unlined None
Rubber Type Stealth Onyxx Rubber Vibram XS Edge Vibram XS Grip2 Vibram XS Edge FriXion RS
Rubber Thickness (millimeters) 2 mm 4 mm 4 mm 5 mm 5 mm

Our Analysis and Test Results

Performance Comparison


The Anasazi VCS on edges in Smith Rocks, OR.
The Anasazi VCS on edges in Smith Rocks, OR.
Photo: Lyra Pierotti

Edging


The Anasazi VCS can hold a decent edge. It's only when you wear multiple shoes in a short period of time (the luxury of testing shoes) that you notice any deficiencies. This shoe excels where friction is king, completely at home on the gritty crystals of Joshua Tree. You start to notice a difference on small edges on slick rock. The Anasazi feels like it could get spit you off, which forces you to adapt your climbing style to be very over your feet. That isn't necessarily a bad thing, and certainly not a game-ender, more of a disclaimer to consider.

The incredible smearing of the Anasazi VCS will let you stick to...
The incredible smearing of the Anasazi VCS will let you stick to anything.

Crack Climbing


Though the rubber is a little on the soft side for cracks and the velcro closure can get in the way, the shoe is surprisingly adept on this terrain. The velcro is high enough on the shoe that it's only an issue on the wide stuff when you can fit most of your feet into the crack. The buckles on the inside can be painful if pressed on, and you won't feel inspired to stand around in a crack if that's happening. Overall, the shoe is sufficiently rigid to withstand significant torquing in jams. Standing flat in cracks can be very comfortable when they're inserted shallow enough that the velcro buckles aren't a problem.

Steep Terrain


We all have styles of climbing that seem harder for us, and for the Anasazi VCS that happens to be steep terrain. The softer, semi-rounded toe does well on pockets that are the right size at not too steep of an angle. Anything smaller than three fingers, and this shoe starts to require some creative twisting to mush the toe into whatever opening there is. The shoe is also flat, meaning that as steepness increases, the lack of a downturned soled reduces its effectiveness.

Climbing shoes collected for testing.
Climbing shoes collected for testing.
Photo: Thomas Greene

Sensitivity


The ONYXX rubber used on this shoe is not only very sticky, but it also allows you to feel virtually every feature in the rock. The Anasazi VCS accomplishes this without losing shape or relying on the climber's foot for structure. This places it in a tiny club regarding its incredible performance on granite slab and face climbs where friction is paramount.

Comfort


Out of the box, this is one of the most comfortable high-end shoes we tested. A flat sole and slightly rounded toe don't compromise its performance and greatly increase its all-day wearability. We recommend this shoe as a great beginner shoe for its excellent all-around performance combined with enough comfort to encourage daily trips to the gym or crag.

Taking a lap after getting rained off Forbidden Peak, Mt. Eerie, WA.
Taking a lap after getting rained off Forbidden Peak, Mt. Eerie, WA.
Photo: Thomas Greene

Be sure these shoes fit well right out of the box because they stretch very little.

Value


With a little internet searching, it's sometimes possible to find these shoes for considerably less than their list price. If you find them at that lower price, you should be stoked because they're a good deal at full retail.

Conclusion


The Anasazi VCS is among some great company in the competition for the title of best all-around climbing shoe. With only a very marginal price difference, it comes down to what fits your foot the best and where you'll be climbing. This shoe would be a better choice for granite, gneiss, gritstone, and sandstone. It would also be a great beginner shoe, offering a comfortable platform that will likely stay ahead of your grade limit for a few seasons.

Matt Bento