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Five Ten Anasazi VCS Review

This classic model is a great choice for beginners who want a shoe that will offer good performance as their technique improves
Five Ten Anasazi VCS
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Price:  $165 List | $144.01 at Amazon
Pros:  Very sensitive, very sticky rubber, solid all-arounder
Cons:  Not the best edging shoe, velcro can hurt in cracks
Manufacturer:   Five Ten
By Matt Bento ⋅ Senior Review Editor  ⋅  Aug 17, 2017
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76
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#18 of 32
  • Edging - 20% 8
  • Cracks - 20% 8
  • Comfort - 20% 7
  • Pockets - 20% 7
  • Sensitivity - 20% 8

Our Verdict

The Anasazi VCS is more at home on granite than welded tuff or limestone pockets. They trade in a little in the edging department for their impressive sensitivity and incredibly sticky rubber, easily the best on the market. The 5.10 Anasazi VCS is the unicorn of the climbing world: a hyper-precise all-around crusher that doesn't hurt so much you want to throw it off a cliff. Eminently comfortable without being sloppy, these shoes manage to be both decently stiff and sensitive. This shoe allows the climber to feel virtually every feature in the rock, making even micro features feel like ledges. They offer all the sensitivity of your gym socks with enough rigidity for standing in the gnarliest of cracks. On anything other than the worst foot jams, you won't even notice the velcro.

Compare to Similar Products

Our Analysis and Test Results

Performance Comparison


The Anasazi VCS on edges in Smith Rocks  OR.
The Anasazi VCS on edges in Smith Rocks, OR.

Edging


The Anasazi VCS holds an edge, and when you're wearing them, you feel like they could climb anything. It's only when you wear multiple shoes in a short period of time (the luxury of testing shoes) that you notice any deficiencies. This shoe excels where friction is king, completely at home on the gritty crystals of Joshua Tree. You start to notice the difference on small edges on slick rock. The Anasazi feels like it could get spit you off, which forces you to adapt your climbing style to be very over your feet. That isn't necessarily a bad thing, and certainly not a game-ender, more of a disclaimer to consider.

The incredible smearing of the Anasazi VCS will let you stick to anything.
The incredible smearing of the Anasazi VCS will let you stick to anything.

Crack Climbing


Though the rubber is a little on the soft side for cracks and the velcro closure can get in the way, the shoe is surprisingly adept on this terrain. The velcro is high enough on the shoe that it's only an issue on the wide stuff. The buckles on the inside can be painful if pressed on, and you won't feel inspired to stand around in a crack if that's happening. Overall, the shoe is sufficiently rigid to withstand significant torquing in jams and standing flat in cracks can be very comfortable if it's shallow enough that the velcro isn't a problem.

Pockets


We all have styles of climbing that are hard for us, and pockets are it for the Anasazi VCS. The softer, semi-rounded toe does well on pockets that are the right size at not too steep of an angle. Anything smaller than three fingers, and this shoe starts to require some creative twisting to mush the toe into whatever opening there is. The shoe is also flat, meaning that as steepness increases, it loses its effectiveness.

Climbing shoes collected for testing.
Climbing shoes collected for testing.

Sensitivity


The ONYXX rubber used on this shoe is not only very sticky, it also allows you to feel virtually every feature in the rock. The Anasazi VCS accomplishes this without losing shape or relying on the climber's foot for structure; this at the expense of some edging ability. This shoe is in a tiny club regarding its incredible performance on granite slab and face climbs where friction rules.

Comfort


Out of the box, this is one of the most comfortable high-end shoes we tested. A flat foot and slightly rounded toe don't compromise its performance at all and greatly increase its all-day wearability. We would recommend this shoe as a great beginner shoe for its excellent all-around performance combined with enough comfort to encourage daily trips to the gym or crag.

Taking a lap after getting rained off Forbidden Peak  Mt. Eerie  WA.
Taking a lap after getting rained off Forbidden Peak, Mt. Eerie, WA.

Be sure these shoes fit well right out of the box, as they stretch out very little.

Value


With a little internet searching, it's sometimes possible to find these shoes for considerably less than their list price. If you find them at that lower price, you'd be stoked.

Conclusion


The Anasazi VCS sits among some great company in the competition for the title of best all-around climbing shoe. With only a very marginal difference in price, it comes down to what fits your foot the best and where you'll be climbing. This shoe would be a better choice for granite, gneiss, gritstone, and sandstone. It would also be a great beginner shoe, offering a comfortable platform that will likely stay ahead of you grade limit for a few seasons.

Matt Bento