Black Diamond Zone - Women's Review
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Black Diamond Zone - Women's
$139.95 at Amazon
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$99.98 at Amazon
|$66.69 at Backcountry|
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|$99.95 at REI|
|Pros||Reasonably priced, great edging shoe||Small company, super sticky rubber, comfortable fit, great crack climbing shoe||Inexpensive, comfortable, easy to get on and off||Inexpensive, easy to adjust, comfortable, soft leather upper||Inexpensive, comfortable, good for beginners|
|Cons||Challenging fit, runs small, doesn't break in well||Long laces caused annoyance, lack versatility||Lacks stiffness, not designed for high-performance climbing||Not great for smearing, rubber lacks the stickiness of more expensive models||Rubber not very sticky, not a high-end technical shoe|
|Bottom Line||An asymmetrical shoe that is super-stiff and has a finicky fit, making it hard to comfortably break-in||These shoes are a great option for those trad climbers out there looking for all-day comfort, a stiff sole, and crack and edging prowess||This shoe is a reasonably priced and very comfortable option great for beginner climbers||A great option for beginners, these shoes are comfortable and easy to use||A great buy for beginner climbers looking for a basic and comfortable shoe|
|Rating Categories||Black Diamond Zone...||Unparallel Up Lace LV||Five Ten Kirigami -...||La Sportiva Tarantu...||Black Diamond Momen...|
|Ease of Use (5%)|
|Specs||Black Diamond Zone...||Unparallel Up Lace LV||Five Ten Kirigami -...||La Sportiva Tarantu...||Black Diamond Momen...|
|Weight (Per Pair, size 37)||0.98 lb||1.11 lb||0.99 lb||0.97 lb||0.83 lb|
|Width Options||Regular, Wide||Regular||Regular||Regular||Regular|
|Fit||Asymmetrical||Medium-Low Asymmetry||Low Asymmetry||Low Asymmetry||Asymmetrical|
|Upper||Engineered knit technology||Synthetic||Synthetic||Leather, microfiber||Knit fabric|
|Sole Rubber||4.3mm Fuse||RH rubber||Stealth C4||Frixion RS||Molded 4.3 mm rubber|
Our Analysis and Test Results
The Black Diamond Zone performed best in our edging metric. It lacks the sensitivity of more flexible models, and its comfort seemed to be highly dependent on foot shape.
First and foremost, a discussion of fit is necessary regarding the Black Diamond Zone. Our testers decided to order a size up from their normal climbing shoe size and a half size up from their street shoe size. Our initial project research indicated some concerns about fit, so we knew this was a red flag going into the review. When the Zone arrived, our lead tester had a hard time getting it on or off — the fit was extremely tight considering the size we ordered.
The stiffness of the shoe also comes into play here since the Zone does not break in to conform to the foot very well. The stiff midsole means that it retains its initial shape even after days of wear. This made for a fairly uncomfortable fit for our lead tester. We would recommend trying this model in person if possible because the sizing is way off from traditional climbing shoe sizing (both compared to other Black Diamond shoes and in contrast to other brands on the market).
The aggressive shape and seriously stiff midsole on the Black Diamond Zone make for a shoe that lacks sensitivity. The 4.3 mm Fuse rubber sole feels thick compared to other models with only 4 mm of rubber on the toe. This is a positive in terms of longevity — more rubber to wear through before your next resole — but it also means that the shoe will lack sensitivity for a while until that 4.3 mm is worn in a bit. We were hesitant to stand on tiny smears in this shoe because of the stiffness of the sole and the lack of sensitivity in the toe box.
Here, the Black Diamond Zone shines. The stiffness, shape, and other complaints we had regarding comfort and sensitivity make for a great edging shoe. The downturned last and molded rubber sole makes a stiff platform to stand on when the toe is perched on small edges. Though it may not be comfortable enough to wear all day, this shoe is great for short sessions on routes with aggressive edging — the stiffness protects the foot from fatigue and provides a solid platform to stand on.
The crack climbing ability of the Zone is highly influenced by the overall fit and sizing you end up going for. Because it doesn't stretch out at all or conform to the foot over time, this shoe does not conform very well to cracks either. In general, for crack climbing, we like a shoe that fits our foot like a glove. Leather models tend to conform to the foot's shape better than shoes with synthetic uppers, plus they are more durable. The Zone has a synthetic textile upper, what the brand calls Engineered Knit Technology, which lacks the durability and glove-like comfort of a leather upper. This upper material, combined with the downturned shape and the stiff sole, does not make this model our go-to option for cracks. Perhaps if it were sized up a few sizes but purchased as a performance-fit shoe, the Zone is not the best crack climber.
The downturned shape and asymmetrical toe box that make the Black Diamond Zone great for edging also make this model a decent option for pocketed routes. The shape allows it to fit into small pockets with ease, and the downturned nature of the fit holds the foot in a way that allows for maximum engagement on steep, pocketed features.
Ease of Use
Though it is seemingly designed for easy use — two Velcro straps and a tongue that opens on the top, the Black Diamond Zone gets a lower score here because of all the fit issues. Our biggest concern with this shoe is the challenge with fit and sizing, which is a major issue in buying climbing shoes, especially when ordering online. We had a hard time getting this shoe on and off, even with the proper sizing.
The Black Diamond Zone is a mid-range option when it comes to price. It is certainly not among the most expensive models out there, nor is it considered a budget option. The Zone land right in the middle — which coincides with its overall performance. This model is a solid transition from a beginner shoe to a more aggressive model, as long as it fits properly.
We really wanted to like this shoe and felt that perhaps with the right foot shape, we would have loved it. For folks who want a stiff, moderately downturned shoe that does not have a leather upper, the Black Diamond Zone is a great bet. This shoe has tons of rubber on the sole, which means it will likely last for a long time. It has a stiff midsole and an aggressive shape that allows it to perform well on vertical to steep terrain. We appreciate its edging ability but felt that it fell short in sensitivity and crack climbing ability. Though moderately priced, our biggest hang-up with the Zone was regarding the overall fit, which was problematic for us.
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