Sterling Velocity Xeros 9.8 Review

For such a thick rope, the Velocity handles surprisingly well, and delivers the durability that we'd expect from a 9.8 millimeter cord.

Performance Comparison

Handling

For a “thicker” rope, the Velocity handles particularly well. The sheath feels smooth and clips carabiners with ease. It slides through devices with less friction than other thick ropes, but still enough to make catching a fallen climber easy. Knots are easy to tie and don't want to come out on their own, which is a phenomenon we've observed with some stiffer thick ropes. The sheath weave isn't too tight, nor too loose. The sheath feels comfortable in our hands and isn't abrasive to the skin. When catching a fall, the rope doesn't stretch too much, which makes it a great choice for top-roping.

When compared to some of the other thick ropes we've tested over the years, this rope is a dream to handle. However, compared to thinner ropes in general, this line feels a little more cumbersome, especially when feeding slack through an assisted-braking belay device for a lead belay and when trying to clip a small carabiner. It also comes with a factory butterfly coil, which means that the rope will be twist-free right out of the packaging.

Durability

This rope impressed us during our durability testing and also during our personal use. That shouldn't be surprising for one of the thicker ropes in the review. With such a high diameter, there is more material to absorb wear and tear compared to skinnier ropes. When pulled taught over an edge, the rope flattens out in a wider footprint than skinnier ropes, decreasing the pressure on any individual sheath fiber. The result is a rope that lasts a long time.

Further increasing the Velocity's durability is the excellent XEROS dry treatment. Sterling applies this PFOA-free treatment to the individual filaments before they're spun into yarns and eventually woven into rope. This treatment effectively keeps water out of the core of the rope, and it also seems to inhibit dirt and grime from rubbing into the rope. Finally, it makes the sheath feel smooth, which might have some effect on preventing sheath wear.

Versatility

This rope excels in the gym and at the top-roping crag, and it also makes for a good lead line while aid climbing. Apart from those uses, this rope isn't versatile. It's just too heavy to haul up a multi-pitch climb, and hiking this rope into the backcountry for an alpine climb makes our knees hurt just thinking about it. The thick diameter also makes it a little harder to clip the rope into quickdraws or cams while leading hard pitches.

Our testers are spoiled rotten by having access to the best ropes in the world. Most users purchase just one climbing rope and make it work for all applications. If you are learning to climb, setting up top ropes regularly, or are building a fleet of ropes for professional or group use, this rope is a good choice. But if you anticipate moving into multi-pitch or alpine climbing, there are other options that are versatile enough to be used at both the crag and the wall.

Features

The Sterling Velocity XEROS 9.8 has good features that make it easy to use at the cliff. We already mentioned the excellent dry treatment, which keeps the rope clean and protected, and also lends versatility for top-roping waterfall ice and mixed routes. We also like the variety of color options and sheath patterns, which include both middle marks and bi-pattern options.

The rope comes in lengths from 40 meters to 80 meters, meaning you'll be able to find the perfect length for routes in your area. We also love how the rope comes factory-sealed in a butterfly coil, eliminating the need to carefully uncoil the rope to avoid twists.

Weight

This rope weighs in at 62 grams per meter. That makes it one of the heaviest ropes that we tested. Compared to the lightest ropes on the market, this one weighs nearly two pounds (900 grams) more in a 60-meter length. While this doesn't matter much for top-roping and gym climbing, it takes a toll over time. Even hiking to the top of the cliff with this rope again and again will feel like a chore.

Of course, increased durability is one of the main benefits of a heavier rope with more material. For users who put a lot of use into their ropes, this added weight is worth the hassle. In the climbing gym, where we lower repeatedly on steel carabiners and don't care about weight, this rope will last a long time. However, we hated carrying this rope more than a few minutes to the crag, and if weight is a consideration for you, there are thinner and lighter ropes out there that provide similar levels of durability.

Should You Buy the Sterling Velocity Xeros 9.8?

If you are looking for a workhorse rope that can withstand frequent use, this is a great choice. Top-ropers and gym climbers would be hard-pressed to find a better rope for those applications. However, if you want more versatility for multi-pitch climbing, we wouldn't recommend this one. The price is reasonable for middle-mark sheath options, but it's a bit steep for a bi-pattern sheath. If you want to get a lot of rope use for your money, this rope presents a good value.

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