Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic Review
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Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic
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|Bottom Line||No rope does a better job of including all the attributes we want – durability, soft but safe catches, great handling, and all at a reasonable price||An excellent deal on an environmentally friendly and high-performance rope||Exceptional handling for a thicker rope that can take loads of abuse||A good rope for single pitch trad climbs||A decent rope that struggles to distinguish itself from the field|
|Rating Categories||Mammut 9.5 Crag Cla...||Mammut Crag We Care...||Sterling Velocity X...||Beal Booster III||Bluewater Xenon 9.2|
|Specs||Mammut 9.5 Crag Cla...||Mammut Crag We Care...||Sterling Velocity X...||Beal Booster III||Bluewater Xenon 9.2|
|Diameter||9.5 mm||9.5 mm||9.8 mm||9.7 mm||9.2 mm|
|Weight||59 g/m||59 g/m||62 g/m||61 g/m||56 g/m|
|Lengths Available||60m, 70m, 80m||60m, 70m, 80m||40m, 50m, 60m, 70m 80m||60m, 70m||60m, 70 m, 80m|
|Dry Coating Option||Classic, No Dry Treatment||Classic, No Dry Treatment||XEROS Dry Treatment (PFOA-free)||Dry Cover||Standard, Double-Dry|
|Middle Mark or Bi-Pattern Option||Middle mark||Middle mark||Bi-Pattern or Standard||Middle mark||Bi-pattern or Standard|
|Certified Use||Single||Single||Single||Single||Single, Half, Twin|
|UIAA Fall Rating||6-7||6-7||6||8||Single 7, Half 22, Twin 44|
|Impact Force||8.8 kN||8.8 kN||8.6 kN||7.3 kN||Single 8.1 kN, Half 6 kN, Twin 9.3 kN|
|Static Elongation % (in use)||8.8||8.8||8.8||9.7||Single 4.8%, Half 4.8%, Twin 3.1%|
|Dynamic Elongation % (first fall)||33.8||33.8||28.8||38||Single 34, Half 30.4, Twin 27.2|
|Sheath Proportion %||40||40||35||42||33|
|Calculated Weight of Sheath||24 g/m||24 g/m||22 g/m||26 g/m||18 g/m|
Our Analysis and Test Results
In 2020, Mammut revamped their entire rope line, ditching the old names and replacing them with a series of ropes that covers all the bases from skinny to thick, while renaming them using a limited list of adjectives that can make telling the differences between each one simple, and also somewhat redundant. To be clear, we tested the 9.5 Crag Classic in a 70m length, which is a non-dry treated rope. Typically we test only the dry treated versions of all ropes, both because the dry treatment has been tested and proven to not only repel water, but also dirt, which can both contribute to a rope's life span. We also try to exclusively use dry-treated ropes so that we have continuity when comparing products in this review. When we ordered up our latest test rope, the dry treated version, known as the 9.5 Crag Dry Rope, was not yet available for purchase, and we didn't want to postpone our testing. So, the performance of our test rope is likely skewed a bit compared to others since it does not have a dry coating. On the upside, opting to forego dry treatment can save a significant chunk of change, and in our case, the rope still performed awesome, with great durability.
This rope currently comes in 60m, 70m, or 80m lengths. Mammut is also producing a 9.8 Crag Classic, which would be a good option for those who want even greater wear resistance, or who are newer to climbing and appreciate the extra friction while belaying that comes with a thicker rope. They also have a 9.5 Alpine Dry rope, which seems to have very similar attributes as the 9.5 Crag Dry, although only comes in a 60m version. Regardless, we found this rope to look and feel very similar to the old Infinity, and feel that when it comes to handling, it's possible that it's now even better, as our test rope didn't stiffen up over time as many Mammut ropes often do.
When considering handling, it's hard for us not to compare this rope to the way the old Infinity handled. While we aren't exactly comparing apples to apples considering that we tested the Crag Classic instead of the Crag Dry, we have to admit that the way this rope handles may in fact be an improvement over the old Infinity. The rope is slippery and supple in a way that allows it to easily slide through a GriGri or similar belay device when belaying and feels really nice in the hands. Some ropes are very soft and bend with a ton of ease, such as most models made by Petzl. This rope is not quite at that level of softness. At the same time, it is not stiff and inflexible, like some thicker ropes tend to be. Call it right in the middle of the sweet spot.
One thing we noticed is that after four months of rigorous testing that has included at least 200 pitches of use, this rope has not stiffened up like Mammut ropes have a reputation for doing. Over time, many people complain that Mammut ropes become "cord-like" and less flexible, which impacts their performance, especially when belaying. We have not noticed this effect in any way, and the rope remains just as supple and easy to manipulate through the device or into knots as when we first uncoiled it.
As long as something out of the ordinary doesn't happen and your rope becomes core shot, where there is a tear or rip in the sheath exposing the core fibers of the rope (which demands immediate retirement), a climbing rope should last for more than one year, depending of course on the level of the demands you put upon it. With that in mind, it can be hard for us to make firm conclusions after only four months of testing since the rope isn't worn out. The good news is, the 9.5 Crag Classic is nowhere close to retirement after our testing period, and still seems to be a "young" rope.
As one might expect, we've noticed a bit of fraying and sheath glazing, which is where the sheath melts a little bit from the heat of friction and can become stiffer or turn grey or black, a common occurrence when one sport climbs a lot and the rope runs though quickdraws as you pull up after falling or to work a particular sequence. The suppleness of the rope remains despite this slight glazing. Looking at the sheath proportion % can also be a good indicator of how long a rope might last. This model's sheath is woven in the common 2x2 pattern, and has a 40% sheath proportion, which is on the high end for ropes we've tested, although also in line with some of our other favorite ropes. Having a larger percentage of fibers in the sheath should mean that the sheath is capable of handling more wear.
This rope weighs in at 59g/m, which if extrapolated out into a 70m cord, means that it would weigh around 9.1 lbs. While thicker ropes, such as those with 9.8 mm diameter or thicker, naturally have a higher weight (up to 63 g/m in this review), the weight of this cord is still on the high end, despite having what some may consider to be a thin diameter.
As you can tell, the weight of this rope precludes it from being considered a "sendy" skinny rope, some of which weigh as little as 52g/m. That said, it will save you some weight over choosing a thicker rope, and isn't so heavy that we would rule it out for multi-pitch climbing. In fact, we consider it an ideal and nearly perfect multi-pitch rope.
This is one of our favorite ropes to fall on, offering a nice soft landing (provided the belay is good), without too much sag or bounce. Measuring and assessing for catch is a really subjective criterion, and one that cannot necessarily be quantified accurately. However, having taken hundreds of falls (usually while projecting sport routes, but we aren't above taking big whips on trad gear) on many different ropes, we can say that this one is indeed one of the better choices you can make.
The stats on this rope have changed slightly from the old Infinity, so despite the fact that it looks and feels nearly identical, some changes the construction must have occurred. It has a dynamic elongation percentage of 33% and a fall force rating of 8.8kN, which taken by themselves might not mean very much, but which we find interesting to compare among other ropes. Interestingly, these figures are nearly identical to those of the Petzl Arial, another 9.5mm rope that also feels amazing to fall on. Oddly, according to the static elongation percentages, the Arial should stretch less than the Crag Classic, but we have found the exact opposite to be true. The Crag Classic doesn't stretch too much when yell "take" or fall while top-roping, making it a good choice for those climbers who don't feel as comfortable on the sharp end.
The price of this rope will depend on the length you choose to buy, but also whether you opt for the dry treatment or go with the classic version, as we did. It is our belief and experience that the extra cost for dry treatment is usually worth it in terms of longevity, although our classic, non-dry version has held up so well that it may be worth it to simply save some money and buy the cheaper version. Either way, these aren't the least expensive ropes out there, but they're not unreasonably expensive either. Since they last a long time and are also among the very best performers, we think that they present excellent value, and the Crag Classic, in particular, could be a very good choice for those on a tight budget.
The Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic wins our Editors' Choice award as the best overall climbing rope because it combines longevity with great handling, and also offers a nearly perfect catch, whether leading or top-roping. 9.5mm ropes work perfectly for nearly any type of climbing. That's why they're the diameter we recommend for those who simply want one rope that can do it all and don't want to worry about having an entire quiver of cords. If this sounds like you, then we highly recommend the 9.5 Crag Classic or Crag Dry, as they are a great value and some of the best climbing ropes you can buy.