Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3 Review

One look at this rope, and users will notice the distinct bi-pattern sheath. Apart from this obvious feature, the Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry 9.3 also has great handling, above-average durability, and excellent versatility. It's a great cord, and might be the only one you need, if you can afford the high price tag.

Performance Comparison

Handling

The Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry has a dense sheath weave that keeps the circular shape of the rope in tact. It also feels slippery out of the packaging, making it easy to clip to quickdraws and carabiners. The supple feel makes it easy to tie knots and hitches. Overall, this is one of the best-handling ropes out there.

When feeding the rope through a belay device, lowering someone with an assisted-braking device, and coiling the rope, we loved how supple this model is. Over time, it gets even softer and more supple, but not so much that we lose confidence in its durability. We should warn potential users that it did feel dangerously slippery when brand new. This slick feel dissipated after 15 pitches, but be careful trusting your life to an inexperienced belayer until this rope has been properly broken in.

Durability

Compared to its peers at similar diameters, the Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry shows superior durability. The tight sheath weave helps prevents snags on sharp edges and crystals. Throughout our test period, this rope resisted sheath wear, though we did notice some fuzz after whipping repeated at the crux of a project. Overall, this rope is plenty durable for regular sport climbing and multi-pitch climbing.

One potential reason for this models high durability is its dense sheath weave. By our calculations, the 39% sheath proportion equates to 22 grams of sheath per meter. That's more than several competitors with thicker diameters ranging all the way up to 9.8mm. The dense weave of the sheath also seemed to resist damage better than looser sheaths on similarly sized ropes. On the other hand, this rope has a propensity to attract dirt and grime more than others. This darkened the color of the rope and left our hands sooty. If left unwashed, the particles in grime have the potential to accelerate wear to the fibers.

Versatility

The Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3 nails the sweet spot for versatility. At 9.3 millimeters in diameter, this rope is useful for everything from top-roping and gym climbing to alpine climbing and hard multi-pitch routes. It excels in sport climbing and single-pitch trad climbs, but it can be used for anything, even ice and mixed climbing, thanks to its dry treatment. In this market, where rope specialization is prevalent, it can be easy to think that climbers need a different rope for each style of climbing. This rope proves that it's still possible to purchase one rope that can do it all.

This rope isn't the most ideal choice for use around the margins. For example, rough uses like aid climbing and industrial top-roping will wear out this rope quickly. It's significantly heavier than the lightest and skinniest ropes on the market, so it's not the best for alpine climbing, but it still works.

Features

The defining feature of the Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3 is it's distinct bi-pattern sheath design. A clear middle mark has a few advantages. First, it makes it easy to see when a climber leading a single-pitch route has climbed past the point of being able to lower back to the ground. Climbers should always tie knots in the tail of their rope when single-pitch climbing to prevent lowering off the end of the rope, but the bi-pattern on this rope adds a layer of security. Second, climbers need to quickly find the middle mark of a rope when setting up a top rope or single-rope rappel. This bi-pattern makes it easier and faster to find the middle mark. When thunderclouds are building nearby and you need to descend from a multi-pitch route quickly, it's nice to pull the rope without concern for passing the middle mark.

Additional features include three length options from 60 to 80 meters, and a decent dry treatment. The length options are somewhat limiting if you are looking for a shorter rope, but it's not a problem for most users. The dry treatment works alright, but there are much better dry treatments on the market. Since the colorful sheath pattern is part of the rope's allure, there are no other color options. The rope comes in a circular coil, but the packaging is set up for the user to pull the rope out of a hole and into a stack that reduces factory twists. This feature works pretty well.

Weight

At 57 grams per meter, the Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry 9.3 falls squarely into the middle of the pack for weight. It also aligns with other ropes of a similar diameter. At 60 meters in length, the rope weighs 7.54 pounds (3.42 kilograms). The 70-meter length weighs 8.8 pounds (3.99 kilograms) and the 80 meter length weighs 10.05 pounds (4.56 kilograms).

This rope is light enough for most uses, but devout alpine climbers will probably think this rope is too heavy. Some sport climbing ropes are lighter, but the low friction from the dense sheath weave should reduce rope drag enough to cancel out the extra heft. At the same time, the added weight and durability can encourage you to take more whips than you might be willing to on a skinnier cord. It's heavy enough to inspire confidence and handle abuse but still lightweight enough for when things get strenuous.

Should You Buy The Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3?

This is a premium rope with a premium price. It is probably difficult for newer climbers to justify such a high price tag. That said, it's one of the most versatile ropes on the market, and for many users, will be the only rope they need. It handles well and is relatively durable. From the gym to the crag to multi-pitch and alpine routes, this rope is a versatile machine, and it has a clear middle mark to help prevent accidents. For those reasons, this rope justifies the price tag.

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