Hands-on Gear Review

Metolius Ultralight Curve Nut Review

A set of Metolius curve nuts
By: Ian Nicholson ⋅ Review Editor  ⋅  Dec 13, 2009
Price:  $15 List  |  $11.95 at Amazon - 20% Off
Pros:  Fits irregular rock well, light weight
Cons:  Cables can get kinked, no smaller sizes, difficult to clean
Manufacturer:   Metolius

Our Verdict

The Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts from Metolius Climbing are among the lightest climbing nuts we tested. They achieve this with a unique feature, attaching the cable directly to the nut and eliminating the swage, which results in less weight and bulk. Metolius Curve Nuts pop out less frequently from rope drag than other nuts. Their features may contribute to the fact that they are the most difficult nuts to clean. Metolius offers a decent size run but we wish they could make smaller sizes in aluminum; without them they fall one or two nuts short of a stand-alone rack.

The cables get kinked over time, but Curve Nut cables are more durable than those on other nuts that fare as well in the placement category: DMM Offset Nut and Wild Country Superlight Rocks. Curve Nuts are our top choice for parallel sided cracks. If you are just looking for a budget climbing nut, we would go with the Black Diamond Stopper or Cypher Huevo.


Our Analysis and Test Results

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likes


These nuts are light! Metolius achieves this by attaching the cable directly to the nut and eliminating the swage. The absence of swage also make them feel less bulky on your rack. They have anodized heads and their swages are color-coded to match Metolius cam colors, making selection of the right size easier. The two curved sides set the nut and keep it stable, making it less likely to pop out from rope drag. This feature made Curve Nuts among the best nuts for parallel sided cracks. The taper wasn't great; they worked just above average in flaring or pin scar placements. The double curve design also helps these Metolius nuts excel in more featured rock like that at Joshua Tree and Metolius's home crag of Smith Rocks.

Dislikes


The cable kinks over time, although not nearly as badly as on DMM Offsets or Wild Country Superlight Rocks. The cables are burlier than many others but have limited movement; after repeated aggressive cleaning (pulling up on the cable to get it out) the cable can start to bend and fray. Also, it is disappointing that Metolius makes no small sizes for this model. So it is close to being a complete set but falls one or two pieces short. Metolius does offer the Astro Nut, which is made of bronze, but like all non-aluminum nuts these are far less durable. The curve of the Metolius nuts that helps keep them from popping out also makes them harder to remove.

Best Application


Metolius Curve Nuts and Wild Country Superlight Rocks are the lightest we tested. This makes Curve Nuts a great option for alpine climbers or anyone looking to save weight. Their three-point point curve is tapered nicely and works well in an assortment of placements and rock types, and excels in irregular rock.

Value


These are among the more expensive nuts tested. But their light weight combined with an excellent mixture of placement options makes them a good buy. They are a worthwhile purchase for climbers who will pay for weight savings and above average performance and don't worry that Curve Nut cables need careful handling to keep from kinking.

Ian Nicholson


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Most recent review: June 7, 2013
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:  
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 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:  
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 (4.5)

100% of 6 reviewers recommend it
 
Rating Distribution
7 Total Ratings
5 star: 57%  (4)
4 star: 29%  (2)
3 star: 14%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sailor

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   Jun 7, 2013 - 03:41pm
SoNVclimbing · Sailor · bolder city, NV

Pros: Not having the big swedge on the cable allows them to fit into/through the cracks better.

Cons: I wish they were shaped more like the dmm offsets with the 4 contacting faces, top stop and grooved centers.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

Climber

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   May 4, 2011 - 10:01am
Toerag · Climber · Guernsey, British Channel Islands

These nuts are very good on the gneiss seacliffs we have here - especially usefull is the 'compressed' size range (10 nuts across a range which most other nuts cover in 8). What isn't so good is the wide narrow end of the nuts which preclude using them in some otherwise good placements - Wallnuts are better in this respect. I might take a file to them to try to rectify this issue. Quality appears to be great so far.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

Climber

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   Nov 12, 2010 - 02:23am
Moocow · Climber · Silverdale WA
These nuts really stick in placements and feel bomber. The curves give lots of surface contact in places where other nuts wouldn't get the same good placement.

I guess the hard to clean issue isn't really bad at all, I haven't had any real issues with it.

I like how light they are and they handle really nicely. What more could you want in a nut?



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

Climber

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   Oct 29, 2010 - 12:14pm
acrophobe · Climber · CT, Gunks

I think that the curve on these nuts give them more placement possibilities than their competitors. I particularly like the ability to get a shallow placement around a small irregularity to enhance an otherwise shaky piece. I like these so much, that I also use the similarly shaped Metolius Astro nuts for my small brass pieces.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

Climber

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   Jun 23, 2010 - 10:38pm
ps · Climber

Love these things, though I have the old style.

The shape of these nuts makes it easy to place, and to judge placements… the shape is far superior to any of the curved shape nuts… BD, Wild Country, ABC, Omega Pacific. They sit in irregular cracks great due to their curved shape.

I wish they had one or two sizes smaller, and one size larger (though larger isn't quite as important). I use the dmm peenuts to compliment the smaller sizes, but sometimes a shape more like the metolius would work better in a small crack.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

The Traverse on Dogstick Ridge  Near Trapps  Gunks  NY.

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   Dec 15, 2009 - 11:05pm
rgold · Climber · Poughkeepsie, NY

I've been using them for years, first the non-ultra light version and then the ultra-lights. I like them a lot better than traditional curved nuts, and have never had any issues cleaning them.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.


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