New Version of the Sum'Tec
A brand new Sum'Tec was released since we tested it. Petzl confirmed that it is a complete re-haul of the original. Here's a note from the manufacturer about the new product:
The only things that the new SUM'TEC and old SUM'TEC have in common are the name and the use. The SUM'TEC has always been a hybrid ice axe. One that when pushed can perform as either a piolet or an ice tool. The previous SUM'TEC was custom designed for that purpose. The new SUM'TEC is a true hybrid. It features a shaft that is a true piolet shaft while the head mount is identical to the one used on the QUARK, NOMIC, and ERGO. This allows the SUM'TEC to be mounted with either a spacer, hammer, or adze, and any of Petzl's existing ice tool picks, as opposed to the ALPIX pick which was unique to the SUM'TEC. The TRIGREST has also been improved to be lower profile and more versatile.
The Petzl Sum'tec stood out and was a top performer in nearly every category except it was just okay at self-arresting. The Sum'tec could easily self-arrest in even the firmest of snow but the reverse curve pick made it less smooth and our testers felt the Sum'tec self-arrested more "jerky" or bumpy". Of course with that said, the reverse curve pick is what makes the Sum'tec a better steep snow climber, so you can't have everything. We felt the Sum'tec self-arrested similarly to the Black Diamond Venom but not near as good as the Grivel Evolution or the Petzl Summit Evo. Our testers did think the Sum'tec's bent shaft did help to get more leverage on the axe while battling to stop.
Steep Ice and Snow Climbing Performance
Steep ice and snow climbing performance is where the Sum'tec truly excels and was the top scorer in this category in our review. Our testers used the Sum'tec for over two dozen days in the Cascades and in the Alaska Range on routes up to WI 4 in difficulty and the Sum'tec performed fantastically. The Sum'tec features a reverse curve pick (just like the picks of nearly all ice tools) that is hot forged and provided excellent purchase in nearly all conditions. A small feature that really set the Sum'tec apart from the Black Diamond Venom
and most of the other modular ice axes on the market was its straight up awesome slider pommel. This slider pommel provided enough support and increased accuracy for our hand while swinging the axe into steeper ice, but also easily moved out of the way while plunging the axe or simply walking on glaciers. The Sum'tec's bent shaft kept our hands drier and out of the snow while climbing in low and mid dagger position but also provided more than enough clearance on moderate to steeper ice.
Use As Improvised Anchor
The Petzl Sum'tec is one of the best axes we tested to be used as an improvised anchor. For "T'-slot" or Deadman style anchors, the Sum'tec features a CEN-T rated shaft, meaning it can hold 400 Kg of weight compared with most other axes we tested that have a CEN-B rating that can only hold 280Kg. The hole in the head of the axe is one of the easiest to clip and will load carabiners in one of the better orientations among axes we tested. The Sum'tec's spike is also extremely well designed and helps facilitate driving the axe to the hilt to assist in providing a quick anchor.
Digging Step Chopping
The Sum'tec digs anchors, hacks tent platforms, and chops steps like a champion and was among the best performing ice axes in our review in this category. It performs as well as any axe can and features one of the best-designed adzes on the market.
Comfort to Carry
The Sum'tec is above average overall in our comfort to carry category. In self-belay position (pick forward) it lives up to its European routes and is very comfortable. In self-arrest position (pick backward) it's good, but not excellent, and wasn't quite as comfortable as the Black Diamond Venom and is on par with the Petzl Summit or Grivel Evolution.
At 16.9 ounces the Petzl Sum'tec is about 2-4 ounces heavier than most other general mountaineering axes but remains lighter than the Black Diamond Venom and most other modular axes on the market. So while it isn't super light, for having an interchangeable reverse curve pick, a CEN-T rated shaft, and a slider pommel, it is light for what it is.
The Sum'tec is a solid choice for general mountaineering routes and excels when the terrain gets steep and complex. Its only small drawback for moderate mountaineering routes is that it only has a reverse curve pick and also just the fact that it is a little overkill and is a few ounces heavier. The reverse curve is not as useful as a classic positive pick on mellow routes with no steep terrain. It is a steep snow and ice-crushing machine that also works sensationally as a leashless ice tool.
At $199 it is more expensive than the similarly designed Black Diamond Venom. But for that extra $49 you get better performing hot-forged pick, half an ounce of weight savings and a super sick slider pommel instead of a more traditional leash.
The Sum'tec is a stellar ice axe for moderate to difficult mountaineering and alpine routes that blurs the line between an ice axe and an ice tool. It's weight and price mean it might be a little heavier or a little on the expensive side for climbers who tend to stick only to easier or moderate mountaineering routes, but the Sum'tec remains a viable option for even those routes.