Black Diamond Raven Pro ReviewPrice: $100 List | $74.96 at Backcountry
Compare prices at 4 resellers Pros: Very comfortable, lighter than average weight.
Cons: Just okay self-arrest performance, doesn't penetrate hard ice well, below average steep snow performance.
Lengths availible: 60cm
Manufacturer: Black Diamond
The Black Diamond Raven Pro is the lighter cousin of the mega-popular Black Diamond Raven. The Raven Pro has all the same features but is 2 ounces lighter and $20 more expensive. The Raven Pro along with the rest of the Black Diamond Raven family are among the most comfortable ice axes to carry and work great for folks with smaller hands. The Raven Pro's only downsides are its very average self-arresting prowess and sub standard steep snow and ice climbing ability and adze performance.
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Our Analysis and Test Results
The Black Diamond Raven Pro scored average to slightly below average in our side-by-side self arrest testing. In softer snow the Raven Pro's wider pick was pretty effective to slow us down; however, when we tested it in firmer conditions the Raven Pro struggled to gain good purchase compared to many of the other ice axes in our review. The Raven Pro is designed with a straight shaft which remains solid for self arresting but all of our testers preferred the additional leverage that a slightly curved shaft provides. We thought the Raven Pro did not self-arrest as nicely as the Petzl Summit, Petzl Glacier, or the Grivel Evolution but performed better than the all-aluminum CAMP Corsa. We did think all of the ice axes in the Raven family including the Raven Ultra and base model Black Diamond Raven performed the same in our side-by-side self-arrest comparison.
Steep Ice and Snow Climbing Performance
Steep snow and ice is where the Raven Pro didn't score as well compared to most other ice axes on the market. The Raven Pro's pick is a little wider and less aggressive than most. Our testers thought the Raven Pro was fine when the snow was soft, but when swinging or daggering into ice the Raven was noticeably less secure. Compared to the similarly priced and similarly weight Petzl Glacier the Raven was below average. The steep snow and ice climbing category where all the entire line of Ravens performed below average compared to most other axes in our review.
Use as improvised Anchor
The Black Diamond Raven Pro is CEN-B rated and works wonderfully in a "T-Slot or deadman set-up for crevasse rescue. The whole in the top of its head is a great size and accommodates most carabiners. The spike is well designed helps facilitate the Raven Pro to be inserted vertically for self-anchoring or as a back-up while belaying.
The Raven Pro's adze is okay for hacking out icy tent platforms and chopping steps but didn't penetrate firmer snow as well as most other ice axes we tested including the similarly priced Petzl Glacier or Grivel G1. When it was super icy our testers felt they had to work noticeably harder to chop the same about of ice away. In softer conditions while digging T-slots for crevasse rescue the Raven performed average to above average and could get the job done.
Whether in self-arrest or self-belay mode, the Raven is the comfiest to carry. This especially applies if you have smaller hands. We can't say that many were uncomfortable, so this is the not the biggest deal.
At 14 ounces the Black Diamond Raven Pro is average to marginally heavier than average among ice axes in our review. While the Raven is 2 ounces lighter than its cousin the standard Raven, its 1 ounce heavier than the much more versatile Petzl Summit and two ounces heavier than the better performing Petzl Glacier.
Best Applications, Value and the Bottom Line
The Raven Pro is best for generally mountaineering because it's comfortable to carry, is fairly light and performs well at most general mountaineering applications. Climbers considering the Raven Pro should also check out the Petzl Glacier which is 2 ounces lighter and features a better performing pick. For climbers into steeper or more complex terrain consider the general mountaineering axes the Petzl Summit and the Grivel Evolution or if a lot of steeper alpine ice routes are in your future then check out the modular Petzl Sum'tec or the Black Diamond Venom.
— Ian Nicholson
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Most recent review: May 18, 2015
Summary of All Ratings
0% of 1 reviewers recommend it
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Average Customer Rating:
0% of 1 reviewers recommend it
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful:
Jan 16, 2010 - 12:36pm
xtrmecat · Climber · Kalispell, MontanagoniaI've carried and used this axe for two entire seasons now, and it is considerably lighter than the one it replaces. For a no frills axe it has it all, although cost was higher than some of the other choices. It has had three lives on it and so far so good. Even a Federal Judge would agree, huh James?
Light, strong, buries the shaft easily to anchor, chops steps pretty fast and clean, and just feel good to pull on. If I had to buy again, this would still be the purchase I would make.
Aug 11, 2010 - 02:00pm
SteveW · Climber · The state of confusionI personally like the BD Raven better. On Denali in 2003 one of
my partners had a Raven Pro and I had the Raven. The Raven proved
to be a much better ax for clearing ice to create a tent site--
the Raven Pro was much too light for such a task. Here's a situation
where the heavier tool did the job better. So if you're going to
use it for BIG mountains, take that into consideration.
Mar 10, 2010 - 07:16pm
clockclimb · Climber · Orem, UtahYou can't miss with this if you want a light axe. I have used mine mountaineering several times and love it. Very nice to grasp, seems very durable and aesthetically pleasing.
Feb 2, 2010 - 01:03pm
Old5Ten · Climber · Berkeley, CAI can only repost a review I wrote for summitpost a few years back:
Spike does not penetrate well on harder snow and ice. One could say that it was the conditions that we experienced, but the Gazelle used a Charlet Moser Pulsar Evolution with great success, when my Raven Pro slid all over the place. The weight saving was definitely not worth the insecurity.
Bottom Line: No, I would not recommend this product to a friend.
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