Arc'teryx Gamma MX Hoody - Women's Review
Cons: Spendy, non-adjustable cuffs, heavy, not super breathable
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Arc'teryx Gamma MX Hoody - Women's
|Price||$349.00 at Amazon||$150.73 at Amazon||$194.25 at Backcountry|
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|$190.00 at Amazon|
|Pros||Great weather protection, decent mobility, stylish, comfortable, excellent fit, helmet compatible hood||Highly breathable, quick-drying, foam inserts prevent jacket creep, helmet compatible, stowable hood, durable||Insulated, highly breathable, moisture-wicking, comfortable, great weather protection, durable, lots of pockets||Inexpensive, stellar mobility and breathability, stow-away pocket, harness-friendly pockets, excellent fit||Unbeatable weather protection, taped-seams, spacious hood, stretchy, generous drop-hem, adjustable cuffs|
|Cons||Spendy, non-adjustable cuffs, heavy, not super breathable||Not very warm, no stow-away pocket for clipping to your harness, cuffs stretch out with heavy use||Spendy, no stow-away pocket for clipping to your harness, hood somewhat small, some reviewers feel it runs small||Not very warm, below average water resistance||Tight shoulders, runs small, somewhat heavy|
|Bottom Line||Whether ice climbing, mountaineering, or heading to dinner with friends, this layer effectively protects from the elements in style||If you're in the market for a lightweight and durable layer that will repel sun and wind with ease and dry super fast, this is a stellar choice||If you need need good breathability and all-around comfort, this insulated hybrid is a great option||This jacket is lightweight, breathable, easy to move in, and affordable - a great combination for the active outdoorswoman||A fantastically mobile and stretchy technical jacket for alpine conditions, this layer manages to be nearly weather-proof AND breathable|
|Rating Categories||Gamma MX Hoody||Sigma SL Anorak Pullover||Proton FL Hoody||Rab Borealis - Women's||Marmot ROM - Women's|
|Weather Protection (30%)|
|Specs||Gamma MX Hoody||Sigma SL Anorak...||Proton FL Hoody||Rab Borealis -...||Marmot ROM - Women's|
|Measured Weight||16 oz (size S)||9.5 oz (size S)||9.5 oz (size S)||9 oz (size 10/S)||15 oz (size M)|
|Material||Fortius 2.0 - Face: 85% nylon, 15% elastane. Backer: 94% polyester, 6% elastane, DWR finish||Aequora Airperm (86% nylon, 14% elastane)||84% nylon, 16% elastane||Lightweight Matrix single weave with 2-way stretch and DWR||GORE Infinium 3L (92% Nylon, 8% Elastane Plain Weave)|
|Hood?||Yes, 2-way adjustable||Yes, 2-way adjustable||Yes, 1-way adjustable||Yes, stretchy but not adjustable||Yes, with Peripheral Cord Adjustment|
|Number of Pockets (zippered unless otherwise noted)||4 (2 hand, 1 chest, 1 sleeve)||1 chest||4 (2 hand, 2 chest)||2 hand||4 (2 hand, 1 chest, 1 interior)|
|Adjustable Cuffs?||No, Stretch Cuffs||No, Stretch Cuffs||No, Stretch Cuffs||No, Stretch Cuffs||Yes, Velcro|
|Available Sizes||XS - L||XS - L||XS - XL||8 - 16||XS - XL|
Our Analysis and Test Results
Stretchy, comfortable, stylish, and warm: the Gamma MX Hoody is a great jacket for all manner of winter missions from hiking and snowshoeing to ice/mixed climbing, and backcountry or cross-country skiing. While it isn't the most breathable or versatile jacket in our review, we reach for it time and again when headed out for some winter fun.
The MX designation on this shell stands for 'mixed weather,' which is where it excels. The Gamma MX is a plushly-lined technical softshell that is dang warm on cold days ice climbing or skiing. It is incredibly wind-resistant and is a welcome companion on windy ridgelines and in breezy canyons. The face fabric is treated with a DWR coating that will protect you from light precip or dry snow. In the shower test, the Gamma MX performed better than average but soaked through completely after four minutes.
Despite doing somewhat poorly on water resistance tests, the Gamma MX is a great jacket for cold days ice climbing in high winds. It handles well and provides sufficient protection from storms during blustery days with snow flurries, but given the low performance of this jacket in the shower tests, it would not be our go-to option for days with lots of wet snow or on days when the ice is super wet or spraying. That said, the Gamma MX fares well as a warm outer layer on most ice-climbing days in sunny and (relatively) dry Colorado. The likelihood of this jacket to soak-through would be much more of an issue in the Northeast or in the UK, where ice climbing is a far wetter affair on balance.
The Gamma MX did not perform as well in terms of breathability, though it is decently breathable given its fairly impressive weather protection. We were psyched during approaches and while hiking, as long as it was properly cold or the hikes weren't too long. The Gamma MX has three mesh-lined pockets — two hand pockets and one chest pocket — which you can open up for extra ventilation. Overall, this jacket achieves a reasonable balance between sufficient breathability and excellent weather protection, which makes it a great option for almost all backcountry winter endeavors.
In spite of the warm fleece lining on the Gamma MX, it scores surprisingly high marks in terms of mobility. It features four-way stretch and is well-tailored, which spells success for ice or mixed climbing, backcountry skiing, and hiking or snowshoeing. The design includes some serious forethought, including gusseted underarms, articulated elbows, and plush stretchy fabric. Our only real complaint with respect to mobility is that when your arms are over your head (as when climbing), the hemline tends to ride-up. This is not an issue with most activities but can be pretty annoying when you get to the top of a pitch of climbing and discover a draft on the small of your back and have to fuss with your jacket to pull it back under your harness. Additionally, when you wear the generous hood over a climbing helmet, it tends to fit a little snugly around your face — though not enough to be a real problem unless you have a long neck and torso. Whether hiking, cross-country skiing, ice climbing, or just running around town, this layer is comfortable and fairly non-restrictive.
In a size small, the Gamma MX weighs 16 ounces, making it one of the heavier technical softshells in our test suite. This is mostly due to the fleece lining and generous features. While it is a bit heavy on the scale, this jacket doesn't feel too cumbersome or heavy to wear and would be a great option for a winter jacket in the front or backcountry.
For this metric, we considered each jacket's durability and features and then considered versatility in terms of the range of ideal activities and climates for each jacket. The Gamma MX offers excellent features suitable for ice/mixed climbing, backcountry/cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and winter hiking. However, while this jacket is great in bad weather, it is a bit too burly for fair-weather activities and would likely be too cumbersome for rock climbing. That said, it has a well-tailored fit that is awesome for moving between the backcountry and the front-country. The helmet-compatible hood adjusts for volume in the back and around the face and features a stiff, laminated brim, which helps keep it firmly in place on a helmet. The hood fits fairly easily over a helmet and adjusts down to fit well over a bare head as well, but is decently comfortable even without adjusting it down.
The Gamma MX has four pockets — one small laminated sleeve pocket, one garaged chest pocket, and two hand pockets. The stretch-woven cuffs are not adjustable, so they can't be tightened around glove cuffs, but they do slide smoothly underneath gloves with a long gauntlet. It has a durable, thick wind flap behind the easy-to-use zipper that prevents snagging, and that also blocks cold air from coming inside. The material by the face is a very soft fleece which prevents chin-chap when the hood is cinched down. The fabric is easy to keep new-looking, and the available colors are fun and appealing. Overall, this innovatively designed jacket is feature-rich, attractive, and is an ideal jacket for a wide array of winter activities.
This is the most expensive jacket in our review, making it a commitment to purchase. However, paying a luxury price for an excellent item can be worthwhile. This piece is exceptionally comfortable, which is one of the main things you want in a softshell. If you decide to throw down and purchase the Gamma MX, we don't think you will be disappointed. Making your investment even more worthwhile is the fact that this jacket is extremely durable, and the classic look is likely to remain stylish for years to come.
A high-end softshell, the stretchy Gamma MX Hoody offers excellent weather protection, mobility, warmth, comfort, and style. We think this jacket illustrates some of the best and most desirable characteristics for a technical winter softshell, effectively protecting you from the elements and moving seamlessly between a winter backcountry adventure to dinner with friends.
— Mary Witlacil and Penney Garrett