The Petzl Djinn Axess quickdraw is a solid performer and was one of our favorite models in this review. The solid keylock gates give you snag-free unclipping, and the gate action is nice and snappy. This quickdraw is constructed with durability in mind, with self-described "rugged" and large carabiners. The Djinn is not as light as our Editors' Choice winner, Petzl's flagship Spirit Express, but not as expensive either, which makes it appealing to entry-level sport climbers and those looking to save a few dollars as well. Petzl didn't break any technological ground with this new model. If anything, the company is thumbing its nose at the light and fast crowd and giving sport climbers what they really need: a draw that will withstand the wear and tear that clipping bolts and repeated top-roping will exert on their gear.
Petzl Djinn Axess Review
Compare prices at 3 resellers Pros: Easy to clip, durable construction, large size works well with gloves
Cons: Heavy, dogbone is on the thin side and not easy to grab
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|Pros||Easy to clip, durable construction, large size works well with gloves||Snappy clipping action, wide sling is easy to grab, light for a sport quickdraw||Easy to clip, deep basket, cool "hood wire" around the notch for snag-free unclipping||Great clipping, wide sling for easy grabbing, keylocking gates don't snag||Lightweight, customizable to four versions, MonoFil Keylock nose and gate very easy to unclip|
|Cons||Heavy, dogbone is on the thin side and not easy to grab||Expensive, still a little heavy for trad climbing||Heavy, expensive||Heavy, expensive||Small biners not as functional as larger ones, sling not the comfiest for grabbing, pricey|
|Bottom Line||A great all-around draw for those with large hands or who wear gloves.||The best overall draw for sport specific climbers.||A great quickdraw for sport climbers who prefer wiregates on the clipping end but don't want it to snag on anything.||A fantastic option for sport climbing.||A versatile quickdraw that uses an innovative gate and nose design for easy unclipping|
|Rating Categories||Petzl Djinn Axess||Petzl Spirit Express||LiveWire||DMM Alpha Sport Quickdraw||Petzl Ange Finesse|
|Ease Of Clipping (25%)|
|Ease Of Unclipping (25%)|
|Ease Of Handling (15%)|
|Ease Of Grabbing (15%)|
|Specs||Petzl Djinn Axess||Petzl Spirit Express||LiveWire||DMM Alpha Sport...||Petzl Ange Finesse|
|Weight (ounces)||4 oz||3.2 oz||4 oz||3.9 oz||2.6 oz|
|Gate opening bottom carabiner (mm)||27 mm||25 mm||24 mm||25 mm||26 mm|
|Width of sling (mm)||16 mm||25 mm||27 mm||25 mm||25mm|
|Manufacturer Warranty||3 year||3 year||1 year||1 year||3 year|
|Non-snagging Top Biner||yes||yes||yes||yes||yes|
|Non-snagging Bottom Biner||yes||yes||yes||yes||yes|
|Unique features||Large carabiners good for big hands or gloves, easy to clip||Sling is wider at the bottom to facilitate grabbing, stiff sling||Large and ergonomic carabiners good for larger hands, hood over bottom wiregate to prevent snags||Dual keylock carabiners, wide sling||MonoFil Keylock gate, comes in four options with different length slings and carabiner sizes.|
|Available sling lengths||12 cm, 17 cm||12 cm, 17 cm||12 cm||12 cm, 18 cm, 25 cm||10 cm, 17 cm|
Our Analysis and Test Results
The Petzl Djinn Axess has double cold-forged keylock carabiners, with a bent gate on the lower end. The sling is 12cm long and 16mm wide. This draw has some of the largest carabiners with the widest gate opening, which is helpful if you have large hands, or need something that you can efficiently use with gloves on when ice climbing.
The Djinn Axess is out in a few new colors this year. Though Petzl has switched up this quickdraw's look, the rest of its features remain the same.January 2019
Ease of Clipping
The carabiners on this model were some of the largest that we tested. The bent gate opening was 27mm wide, and our testers with larger hands found that the Djinn Axess clipped very easily. The wide gate opening also makes it easy to place a clove hitch or other rope anchor points in the bottom carabiner at the top of a climb.
Ease of Unclipping
The keylocking carabiners on both ends of this quickdraw prevent it from snagging on your harness, the bolt, or the rope when cleaning steep sport routes. The downside to having a keylock carabiner on the rope clipping end of a draw is that there is potential for the gate (which is heavier than a wiregate) to 'flutter' open during a fall. A carabiner with an open gate is significantly less strong than when it's closed (9kN open vs. 23 kN closed for the Petzl Djinn Axess) which can lead to the carabiner breaking. In practical application, the instances of this happening are exceedingly rare, but it is something to consider. Another downside of the solid gate design is the tendency for it to get gummed up and sticky over time. If you are looking for a keylock/wiregate combo, the Black Diamond LiveWire Quickdraw is a good choice.
This is one of the heavier quickdraws that we tested, weighing 4 ounces per draw. If you're looking for something lightweight to take up a long route, you'd be better off with a set of Black Diamond Oz Quickdraws. On the other hand, the Djinn are heavier because they're made with durability in mind. The bigger and heavier "rugged" carabiners on this draw are more likely to last longer than thinner, lightweight ones.
Ease of Handling
The Djinn Axess earned mix reviews for ease of handling. The oversized carabiners feel great in all size hands, but our testers with larger "paws" really appreciated it, as some of the smaller carabiners out there can be difficult for them to handle. However, they did feel slightly clunky on our harness when racking a whole set of them at once. This model also comes with Petzl's String bottom carabiner positioner, which is an external and removable rubber keeper. The upside to a removable keeper is that you can switch it out if starts to wear out or break; the downside is that it creates the potential for user error. Be sure to double-check that your draws are assembled correctly - the bottom carabiner must pass through the sling and the rubber String.
Ease of Grabbing
The sling on the Djinn Axess is only 16mm wide. While it is easier to grab than the 10mm dogbones found on lightweight models, it's not nearly as easy to grab as the wider slings on the DMM Alpha Sport or the Petzl Spirit Express. Those quickdraws both have 25mm wide slings.
Petzl touts the Djinn Axess as good for someone's "initiation to outdoor climbing." We agree that it is a great choice for someone just starting out in the sport, as long as it's for sport climbing! These draws are heavily constructed to withstand the type of use that someone new to the sport might dish out (dropping draws, a lot of top-roping, and draw grabbing), but you wouldn't want them on your trad rack. While the Black Diamond Positron score a little lower overall, we think that is a great first draw as well, thanks to its keylock design and slightly wider sling.
The Djinn Axess are priced about $7 less apiece than the Petzl Spirit Express, and might even last longer than them, so, all in all, they are a great buy with a moderate $18 price tag.
Unlike Black Diamond, which seems to have a different draw for every day of the week, Petzl only had two options for many years: the Spirit Express and the lightweight Ange Finesse. Their decision to make another sport-specific draw might end up challenging the popularity of its ubiquitous Spirit Express. The Djinn Axess is a great, though heavy, sport climbing draw that should stand up to the wear and tear that bolts and repeated top-roping will dish out to your gear.
— Cam McKenzie Ring