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Hands-on Gear Review
CAMP Nano 22 Express KS Review
Cons: A little small, high friction
The CAMP Nano 22 used to be the lightest quickdraw made until Edelrid introduced the Nineteen G Set, which includes two of its 19-gram carabiners and a lightweight sling for a total weight of just 47 grams. The small size is best suited for alpine or traditional climbing but also makes a great biner for clipping small hangers or links on anchors. This biner is also available in a six pack and the CAMP Nano 22 carabiner is also sold individually.
The CAMP Nano 22 Quickdraw is not ideal for making clips on sport routes. When compared to the Metolius FS Mini, it is a little less expensive and a little easier to handle. For most applications, we would rather use a draw with a bigger biner that is a little heavier, like the Wild Country Astro Quickdraw, the Black Diamond Oz Quickdraw, or the CAMP Photon Wire Express KS Dyneema. That said, if you are obsessed on having the lightest gear, nothing beats the CAMP Nano 22.
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Our Analysis and Hands-on Test Results
The CAMP Nano 22 is one of the lightest quickdraws out there. Even though it is really small, the spine is pretty easy to grab (it is less slippery than the Metolius FS Mini Quickdraw). One minor like is the fact that the small size makes it ideal for clipping into tight-fitting chain links and tiny bolt hanger holes. As with all carabiners with the wiregate design, the gate is less likely to get frozen shut on alpine routes.
Because this carabiner is so small, it is not the easiest to handle, especially when wearing gloves. The CAMP Nano 22 is also not that smooth for the rope to run through (there is more friction when leading). It does not hold many knots or gear. As with all biners with the wiregate design, the notch gets caught up on the bolt hanger when cleaning steep routes.
Alpine, big wall or traditional climbing where weight and size are of the highest concern. Not the best for sport climbing since it is too small to easily clip.
If you are a mega lightweight enthusiast, the CAMP Nano 22 is as good as it gets. That said, the CAMP Photon Wire Express is the same price and is just over .4 ounces heavier. The bonus here is the that the Photon Wire Express has full-sized carabiners that are significantly easier to use than those on the Nano, making them much more versatile.
— Chris McNamara
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