Hands-on Gear Review

Ushba Titanium Nut Tool Review

Ushba Titanium nut tool
Price:  $35 List
Pros:  Lightweight, long, well-designed nose for cleaning nuts and cams
Cons:  Expensive, nose is a little sharp and tends to get caught on things
Editors' Rating:   
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Weight:  41g
Length:  24cm
Leash?:  No
Manufacturer:   Ushba

Our Verdict

Discontinued

At 46 grams this is the lightest nut tool we tested, making it a great option when weight is of utmost concern. It also sports a built-in carabiner that further keeps its weight to a minimum, eliminating the need for another carabiner. The Ushba was one of the more comfortable on which to bludgeon our palms in attempts to release sometimes fickle nuts. It has a well-designed nose and hook that led to good nut cleaning performances, especially when freeing smaller wires in tiny fissures. It did about as well as the Wild Country Pro Key and not quite as well as the Metolius tools in this category. Its long length gave extra reach for seemingly lost pieces. However, this length caused it to occasionally catch annoyingly on other gear on our harness.

It also does a fantastic job at cleaning both nuts and cams. It does catch on things some but this wasnt a huge deal as long as you dont keep your gear sling too long. It is the most expensive nut tool, so if you are on a tight budget, consider the Wild Country Pro Key or Metolius Extractor.



RELATED REVIEW: The Best Nut Tools for Climbing

Our Analysis and Test Results

Review by:
Ian Nicholson

Last Updated:
Thursday
December 10, 2009

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Likes


In addition to being lightest nut tool we tested, the Ushba added a lot of extra pounding surface at end to allow easier nut removal without bruising your hands. We found it to be more comfortable than the Metolius Freenut. It has large finger holes, offering better grip for pulling and stabbing. It is the longest nut tool we tested, providing the ability to extract extra deep pieces. It has a good hook for cams and a relatively narrow head that scored high for small nut removal. We also liked its built-in carabiner slightly more than either of the Metolius tools or the Wild Country because it is easier to get on and off our harness.

Dislikes


This nut tool is the longest in the review and has a sharp nose. This meant it got caught and twisted up with other gear more than other models we tested. This wasn't a big deal, but it was a little annoying. It can put a hole in your pack with its sharp "hook" if you aren't careful packing. It is the most expensive nut tool we tested. Finally, when we pounded on it with the hammer of an ice tool the titanium flexed more than other nut tools on the market. This meant less efficient energy transfer.

Best Application


This nut tool works for all applications but excels on alpine climbs, long routes, big approaches, and any time weight is the critical factor. It is also a excellent nut tool for anyone willing to spend extra money.

Value


While expensive, it does bring a lot to the table for those looking for the features it offers.

Ian Nicholson


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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: June 2, 2010
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:  
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 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:  
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 (5.0)

100% of 2 reviewers recommend it
 
Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 100%  (3)
4 star: 0%  (0)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Climber

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   Jun 2, 2010 - 02:24am
piglicker · Climber · Guido's Pizza

I have had a number of different nut tools, and the Ushba is, IMHO, nut tool perfection. I've had this for perhaps 10 years. Mine predates the "integrated wiregate carabiner" design, but that is preferable to me because I find those seem to accidentally come disconnected from your harness in odd situations much more often. I have a light biner on it and it is basically unnoticeable, whether cragging or trucking around in the mountains.

I had hoped the Metolius one would be better, but as the official review mentioned, it doesn't provide as much surface area for bumping it with the heel of your hand as the Ushba. When you are free climbing this is the difference between getting your nervous leader's pro and leaving bootie for the next party. :-)

However, I leave this on the ground when I pack the aiders and hammer. This thing is too expensive to be abusing it with your Yo.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

Climber

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   Mar 10, 2010 - 11:57pm
clockclimb · Climber · Orem, Utah

I have a lot of nut tools. This one is my overall favorite. Saves a lot on weight but is still pretty tough. I bought mine cheaply on ebay and have bootied many, many cams with it.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

Climber

Dec 1, 2009 - 05:04pm
 
Jay Wood · Climber · Land of God-less fools

I had one, but the wire gate failed & I returned it to REI. Excellent otherwise.




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