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Metolius Torque Review

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Price:  $15 List | $14.95 at REI
Compare prices at 3 resellers
Pros:  Best tool for thin crack nut extrication, Comfortable
Cons:  Expensive, relatively heavy
Manufacturer:   Metolius
By Valentine Cullen ⋅ Senior Review Editor  ⋅  Mar 12, 2014
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Our Verdict

Simple, strong, and effective, the Metolius Torque has everything we're looking for in a nut tool plus an awesome wrench feature for tightening bolts. Every company who puts out a nut tool cuts holes in them to reduce weight. Metolius makes their holes useful, accommodating bolts of four different sizes. Genius! Weight reduction and functionality, all rolled into one solution. The Torque takes the Macgyvering spirit of the nut tool and goes a step further, creating a tool that performs its intended purpose, but also can be used to make climbs safer.


Our Analysis and Test Results

The Torque is a tester favorite because it strikes a good balance of weight, durability, and functionality. For the ounce-counters, the Metolius feather is a better choice. For a little less weight and durability, check out the Black Diamond Wire Gate nut tool.

Performance Comparison


Racked up and ready for nut bashing  cam extracting  and even some bolt tightening.
Racked up and ready for nut bashing, cam extracting, and even some bolt tightening.

Nut Cleaning


Was Metolius the first company to add a blunted smashing surface to the end of a nut tool? We're not sure, but it would be in line with a lot the innovative designs coming from the little Oregon based company over the years. It's been copied for sure, appearing on tools from Wild Country and Black Diamond, but the Torque is the first place any of our testers can remember seeing it. This little rounded butt-end equals sweet relief for your palms, especially if you're slamming out nut after nut while cleaning long aid pitches.

Cam Cleaning


The Torque's business end is hooked for snagging cams that have walked far into the back of cracks by the trigger. Since it's constructed from stainless steel, our tester's felt they could pry away at stuck lobes without damaging our bending the tool. The very end of the tool is small enough to fit inside the holes in the lobes of the BD cams sizes .75 and up.


Ease of Handling


Nuts stuck again? Whip the Torque off your harness, clip it to the rope (which has some slack in because you're free climbing, and you're sending) and wail away on that nut till it's outta there. Drop the tool and the nut which are both conveniently connected to the rope, and crank away to the next position where you can rest and rerack. No keeper cord necessary.

At 81/4"  this is one of the shorter tools  but not by much. On the plus side  it won't hang down off of your harness as low  but it won't have the same reach as longer tools for reaching cams that have walked deep into cracks.
At 81/4", this is one of the shorter tools, but not by much. On the plus side, it won't hang down off of your harness as low, but it won't have the same reach as longer tools for reaching cams that have walked deep into cracks.

Durability


Like the Wild Country Pro Key, the Trango Shark, the Camp Nut tool, and the BD Wire Gate, the Torque is constructed from steel and is harder than aluminum nuts and cams, as well as many types of stone (something to consider while you're slamming away at fixed gear). You'd be hard pressed to break this thing, whether you're using it for it's intended or unintended purpose.

Weight


At 2.3 oz, this tool is in the middle of the pack in terms of weight. We think the extra ounce that the Torque has on the Feather is worth carrying for the durability and wrench feature, so if you're only going to purchase one nut tool, this is the one.

2.3 oz according to Metolius  and  2.3 oz according to our trusty purple scale.
2.3 oz according to Metolius, and 2.3 oz according to our trusty purple scale.

Best Applications


Cleaning nuts, freeing cams, removing hangers behind you as you climb the route so that the party behind you can't follow (just kidding), gardening, eating peanut butter, and even a little creative aid shenanigans are all perfect uses for this near-perfect tool.

Value


$14.95 ain't too shabby for a useful device that will save your expensive gear and potentially you snag you a free piece or two. Just don't drop it!

Conclusion


There are no gimmicks here with the Torque, just a well-designed little piece of equipment that needs to live on your trad rack. Whether you're new to the game or you're a seasoned "booty master", you can't go wrong with this nut tool.


Valentine Cullen