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Omega Pacific ISO Standard D Review

A good locker for those who are mainly interested in setting up anchors.
Omega Pacific ISO Locking Standard D
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Price:  $11 List | $10.95 at REI
Pros:  Strong, durable, good for setting up anchors
Cons:  Narrow gate opening, not as versatile
Manufacturer:   Omega Pacific
By Ryan Huetter ⋅ Review Editor  ⋅  Nov 16, 2016
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52
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#11 of 11
  • Function - 30% 6
  • Ease of Unlocking and Locking - 25% 6
  • Compactness lightweight - 20% 4
  • Gate Clearance - 15% 5
  • Gate Hang Up - 10% 3

The Skinny

The Omega Pacific ISO Standard Locking D has been around for a long time and countless climbers, hikers, mountaineers have used them in technical and casual applications. The D shape is the strongest of all the carabiner shapes, which can be read more about in our Buying Advice Article, and so many people gravitate towards the Locking D for constructing top rope anchor systems. While the D does allow for more strength and with a shape that helps keep load in the proper orientation, the ISO Standard Locking D does not offer any of the functionality that can be found in HMS/pear shaped carabiners like the Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate, or the compromise of strength and versatility of the Petzl Am'D Twist Lock. It is a dependable locker that performs well within a given set of circumstances, so for those only looking for locking carabiners with which to build solid, institutional-grade anchors, the OP Locking D is still an OK option, but we would recommend shopping for a more useful locker if you have other uses in mind.

Read on, and look at our Best Locking Carabiner Review to see what lockers won our top awards.


Compare to Similar Products

Our Analysis and Test Results

Performance Comparison



Anchoring using bolts and gear with the Omega Pacific Standard Locking D in the Owens River Gorge.
Anchoring using bolts and gear with the Omega Pacific Standard Locking D in the Owens River Gorge.

Function


This is the strongest locking carabiner in our review, with major axis strength of 31kn. The D shape keeps load oriented properly along the spine. Thanks to the sharp angles created by this design rotation and cross-loading were less common than in other less angled designs. This made it a good option for uses like connecting to bolt hangers and attaching bight knots together when extending anchors. Other high-load applications that place lots of stress within a system like slackline anchor building could benefit from the high strength to low function relationship, but most climbers will find the Locking D cumbersome to work with in most circumstances, and would find an HMS locker like the Mad Rock Ultra-Tech HMS a more effective tool.

The strong D shape is a good choice if planning to build anchors off bolt hangers.
The strong D shape is a good choice if planning to build anchors off bolt hangers.

Ease of Locking and Unlocking


The ISO Standard is a quality piece of equipment, and its traditional screw gate closure is well made and works well in varied conditions. When closed, the screw lock stays locked, less susceptible to gate shutter opening than lighter lockers like the Petzl Attache.

Compactness/Weight


The OP Locking D is a mid-sized locking carabiner, not the smallest but certainly not the biggest reviewed. Its narrow profile makes it easy for those with smaller hands to use. At 74 grams it is also in the middle of the pack in weight- certainly not as heavy as the belay specific DMM Belay Master 2 but not as light as the more capable Black Diamond Positron Screwgate.

Cragging in Joshua Tree tends to be harsh on ropes and gear- best to use a thicker locker like the Omega Pacific Standard Locking D for master points here.
Cragging in Joshua Tree tends to be harsh on ropes and gear- best to use a thicker locker like the Omega Pacific Standard Locking D for master points here.

Gate Clearance


With only 1.6cm of gate opening clearance, there are certainly some limits on what the ISO Standard can comfortably clip. The standard D shape has a lot to do with this; offset or asymmetrical D shaped locking carabiners like the Petzl Am'D allow wider gate opening.

Gate Hang Up


We reviewed ten popular lockers in this review, and every other locker we tested uses a keylock nose design, a feature that keeps the nose of the carabiner from catching on bolt hangers, gear and other stuff. The OP Locking D is the only one that uses a notched nose, and we found it to catch frequently, especially when trying to unclip it under tension. Keylock carabiners like the Wild Country Ascent Lite Belay are a more desirable option these days.

The Omega Pacific Locking D is one of its best applications  building top rope anchors.
The Omega Pacific Locking D is one of its best applications, building top rope anchors.

Best Applications


While we found many issues with the ISO Standard, especially when compared with other more capable lockers in a range of applications, it can still be an appropriate choice for those looking to build strong, quality top rope anchors, such as at climbing venues where anchors are located far from the cliff's edge, and thanks to its rugged durability is a good choice for master point carabiners.

Value


This is one of the most budget-friendly locking carabiners in our review, and although it does not win the Best Buy award, a distinction that goes to the Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate, it is still a good value for those climbers looking to build up their kit for the first time.

Conclusion


For anchor building, rescue systems, slackline set-ups and other high-stress technical applications, this contender is a low cost, long-lasting option that provides strength and security, but at a cost of functionality in many other climbing usages.


Ryan Huetter