Hands-on Gear Review

Mad Rock Super Tech Keylock Screw Review

Mad Rock Super Tech Keylock Screw
By: Chris McNamara and Chris Summit  ⋅  May 11, 2010
Price:  $8 List  |  $7.95 at Amazon
Pros:  Light, great value, easy to grip.
Cons:  Does not hold many ropes, not great gate clearance.
Manufacturer:   Mad Rock
75
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#6 of 11
  • Function - 30% 7
  • Ease of Unlocking and Locking - 25% 7
  • Compactness lightweight - 20% 10
  • Gate Clearance - 15% 6
  • Gate Hang Up - 10% 7
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Best Buy Award

Our Verdict

This is the best value for lightweight carabiners. It scored only a little lower than the Edelrid Pure Screw but costs much less. If we were loaded, we would go with the Pure Screw exclusively with a few Petzl Attache here and there. But if you are on a budget, or just appreciate value, then it's hard to beat this carabiner for its weight and the money. The only other sub- $8 light carabiner we tested is the Mad Rock Ultra-Tech HMS, which is much heavier.


Compare to Similar Products

Our Analysis and Test Results

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Weight


This is a very light (almost the lightest). While it is small and compact, it has an I-beam design that makes it easy to handle. It is the perfect carabiner to load up on for multi-pitch climbing because it is so light. Only a few carabiners are lighter, and it's only by a few grams.


Gate Clearance


There are no major dislikes other than that since it is a small carabiner, it doesn't have great gate clearance or hold much. It is also not good for belaying the second from the anchor.


Best Application


A lightweight all around locking biner best for uses where size and weight are a key factor.

Value


This is hands down the best value in small locking carabiners. It's the biner we load up on for trad climbing applications.

Chris McNamara and Chris Summit

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: March 28, 2011
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:  
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 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:  
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 (4.0)

100% of 1 reviewers recommend it
 
Rating Distribution
2 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 100%  (2)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)

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   Mar 28, 2011 - 06:18pm
Matt Leonard · Climber · San Francisco, CA

I recently overhauled my rack with lightweight everything, and dropped a ton of weight. I swapped out (almost) all my locking carabiners with the Mad Rock Super Tech. As the SuperTopo review says - the only drawback is that it is a small carabiner - thus gate clearance and overall capacity is somewhat limited.

I carry a couple larger HMS-style carabiners (also Mad Rock ultralights) for Belaying, and a Master Point. But for everything else - I use these. I even have a couple draws with these lockers on them for added safety - they weigh less than many non-locking biners!

-Matt



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.


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