Edelrid Pure Slider Review
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Edelrid Pure Slider
|Price||$15.96 at Backcountry|
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$17.95 at REI
$21.95 at REI
$12.95 at REI
$15.95 at REI
|Pros||Very quick and easy to unlock, auto-locks, very light and compact||Versatile, lightweight, relatively affordable, lots of gate clearance, gate security stripe||Twist-lock is easy and fast, versatile shape, lightweight, secure||Very light, affordable, visual indicator on screw gate, full-sized offset-D||Light, small, least amount of revolutions needed for screwgate to lock or unlock|
|Cons||Locking mechanism not as secure as others, locking slider can block closure of gate||Screwgate can get stuck closed, aluminum I-beam construction wears out quicker than some||Pricey, slightly less gate clearance than HMS style||Gate spring squeeks, less versatile than HMS style||Expensive compared to alternatives, the least amount of gate clearance|
|Bottom Line||A unique tool for greater peace of mind while leading||The best and most versatile locker at a reasonable price||A favorite due to its versatile shape and very easy to open twist-locking gate design||This lightweight offset-D is not only a perfect choice for the budget conscious, but for anyone who wants top performance||Our favorite personal locker is great for building anchors|
|Rating Categories||Edelrid Pure Slider||Petzl Attache||Petzl Sm'D Twist-Lock||CAMP USA Photon Lock||DMM Phantom|
|Overall Utility (25%)|
|Ease of Unlocking and Locking (25%)|
|Compactness and Weight (20%)|
|Gate Security (20%)|
|Gate Clearance (10%)|
|Specs||Edelrid Pure Slider||Petzl Attache||Petzl Sm'D Twist-Lock||CAMP USA Photon Lock||DMM Phantom|
|Weight||43 g||57 g||51 g||44 g||41 g|
|Gate Closed Strength (KN)||23||22||23||23||24|
|Sideways Strength (KN)||8||7||8||8||9|
|Gate Open Strength (KN)||8||6||7||9||9|
|Gate Clearance (cm)||1.8 cm||2.6 cm||2.2 cm||1.8 cm||1.6 cm|
|Visual Locking Indicator?||Autolocking||Yes||Autolocking||Yes||No|
|Lock Closure Type||Autolocking Slider||Screw-lock||Twistlock, also comes in screw lock or triple action||Screwgate||Screwgate|
Our Analysis and Test Results
The Pure Slider can be used for constructing anchors like most light and compact lockers, but the sliding gate closure, which must only be moved about ¼ of an inch to allow the gate to open, is not as secure as a screw gate or twist-lock carabiner. We found this locker to be at its best when used on lead, on the end of a sling or quickdraw placed on a piece that we really wouldn't want to come unclipped from. Imagine a crux on a sport route coming after the first bolt, where there is only one 'biner catching your fall, and the ground looms close. Or imagine placing a cam on a traversing pitch where the crux comes run-out and will involve swinging back in the direction you have come. Believe it or not, the rope can rather easily run over the gate of a simple wiregate carabiner in these circumstances and unclip itself when the weight forces the gate open, something that has led to many climbing accidents. Placing a Pure Slider on this sort of piece adds security because now you know the rope won't come unclipped, and these are the circumstances that the Pure Slider was specifically designed for. While not quite as simple to clip as a wire gate 'biner, the Pure Slider is very easy to open, and snaps closed and locks automatically. We certainly recommend having a few of these lockers placed on the end of special slings or draws for instant deployment in high-consequence moments.
Overall utility describes a locker's ability to both function well at its intended purpose, as well as its versatility. We think that the Pure Slider fits a unique niche for lead climbing, but its lack of gate security doesn't inspire us to often use it in normal locking carabiner situations, such as while belaying, rappelling, or as master points or clip-in lockers on the end of a personal anchor system. We think they are appropriate to use in similar situations like other small and compact lockers, but don't necessarily serve as an effective backup if you happen to drop your only HMS/pear shaped locker on pitch three of your route. Basically, we would buy one or two of these in addition to the standard collection of lockers that we carry on multi-pitch routes, but wouldn't likely buy them instead of an HMS shaped locker, which are far more useful and versatile for normal climbing situations.
Ease of Unlocking and Locking
The Pure Slider is the easiest locker in this review to unlock. On the outside of the gate is a small slider that is spring loaded to cover the keylocking nose when closed. One must only put their thumb on this slider and slide it down ¼ of an inch to then open the gate. With practice this becomes so quick and simple that you could easily do it on lead when clipping your rope to a piece. It also locks very easily, as the gate is spring loaded and the locking device similarly springs into locked position the moment the gate is closed. It is an auto-locker. We would have rated this a perfect 10 for this metric, except that we found while using it at the dirty and dusty Smith Rock that the locking mechanism sometimes froze, blocking the gate from closing automatically on its own. We believe this was simply due to dirt clogging the spring mechanism, and have used it countless times since without issue, but want to point out that the auto-locking method used isn't foolproof.
Compactness and Weight
This locker weighed a mere 43g on our independent scale, tied for the second lightest locker. It uses I-beam construction and aluminum stock to cut weight as much as possible. While it isn't quite as small as the most compact lockers, it is the same size as a standard "pure" carabiner made by Edelrid, engineered for quick and easy clipping while on lead, and we thus rated it the second highest score for this metric.
As we have already mentioned, gate security is the Achilles heel of this locking carabiner, and we awarded it the lowest score compared to all of the others that we tested. Technically it is a double-action locker, requiring one to simply slide the lock downward along the gate and then push to open. The gate security offered is more than enough to rest assured that ropes will not be coming unclipped, but is probably not enough to put our mind at ease for use as a single safety link, as you would for a master point or belay device.
We measured the gate clearance of the Pure Slider at 1.8cm, which was nowhere near the size of the opening commonly found on HMS style lockers. To be fair, we didn't score it very high, but we must point out that for its designed purpose, which is simply to clip a rope through (not hitches or knots), this is the same size opening you will find on nearly any straight-gate or wire-gate carabiner, so it certainly won't hold you back.
These small but unique lockers retail for far more than comparably sized lightweight lockers. We would say they only present good value if you intend to use them as they were designed, for leading, where their function is truly unique. For use as a standard compact locker, you can easily find more affordable options that will work just as well.
The Edelrid Pure Slider is a light and compact auto-locking carabiner that is designed, and thrives, while being used on the sharp end. Traversing climbs or pitches where the crux comes above only a single piece leaves one exposed in the random event that the rope comes unclipped from the protection, something which has happened to countless people. A very easy to open and deploy locker like the Pure Slider can nullify these risks, and is a useful tool for lead climbers, whether on sport or trad pitches.
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