Metolius Monster Daisy Chain Review
Black Diamond Dynex Daisy Chain. If you are buying this to trad climb, you might also consider the Metolius Personal Anchor System. If you the best overall daisy chain for aid climbing, we think the Metolius Monster is it.
Our Analysis and Test Results
This is one few daisy chains with a reinforced clip-in point at the end. That point wears out quickly on most other daisy chains because it takes the most abuse from other carabiners when aid climbing. Because of this reinforcement, this daisy chain will last you twice as long as most others. For aid climbing addicts, this is almost a mandatory feature. For casual aid climbers, it is less important and may not be worth the extra cost and bulk.
As a side note, ten years ago I made my own daisy chains in the old A5 shop at The North Face in San Leandro. I was blowing out daisy chains left and right and couldn't find a company that wanted to add reinforcement to the ends. It is great to see there is now a company that reinforces this crucial point.
I like the Dyneema and Nylon mix which makes up the "Monster" material. If gives some of the lightness of Dyneema while still have some fall absorption properties of nylon.
These are some of the flatter loops or pockets. This makes them a little harder to hook, especially when twisted.
The Dyneema daisy does not have much stretch, which increases impact forces on daisy falls. By how much? I don't know exactly and I don't believe it is a big issue. The upside of less stretch is that it transfers force better when bounce testing. Dyneema is far lighter than nylon, which you notice when lifting your aiders and daisy thousands of times. If you want the heavier nylon version of this daisy, check out the Metolius Nylon Daisy Chain. The Monster is my favorite because I am obsessed on all things light.
The Dyneema does make this daisy chain pretty expensive; you can almost buy two Black Diamond Nylon Daisy Chains for the same price.
— Chris McNamara