Scarpa has made a bold statement with the Chimeras. The color scheme is garish, the price is exorbitant, and the performance claims are outlandish. Yet somehow, this shoe is able to live up to the boldness. The performance frankly exceeds the hype. The quality construction justifies the price. And after the colors faded a little, we even grew to like its looks.Our testers' favorite attribute is the Chimera's exceptional sensitivity that allows you detect the subtlest features of a foothold. We also appreciate the comfort of the unlined microfiber upper that feels great out of the box and only improves with time. The obvious drawback is the cost, and it's also not the perfect shoe for pockets. For serious bouldering or sport climbing, however, few shoes can match this beast's outrageous performance.
Scarpa Chimera Review
Compare prices at 2 resellers Pros: Extremely sensitive, comfortable right out of the box, solid edging performance
Cons: Really expensive, limited support, low versatility
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|Pros||Extremely sensitive, comfortable right out of the box, solid edging performance||Versatile, durable, comfortable||Great precision, aggressive/down turned toe tip, sensitive, great toe and heel hooking, precise fit, comfortable, easy on/off||Incredible sensitivity, great edging, durability||Best edging shoe on the market|
|Cons||Really expensive, limited support, low versatility||Expensive||Not comfortable for all-day climbing, expensive, not the most versatile, hard to fit, single strap broke prematurely||Specalized use, expensive, might be hard to resole||Expensive|
|Bottom Line||Super expensive shoe designed for bouldering and comps||An awesome shoe for long climbs requiring a variety of crack climbing and edging techniques||A tried and true modern classic, this model excels while steep and technical climbing||An incredibly sensitive and comfortable shoe that excels at edging||This high performance model is the ultimate balance of support and sensitivity|
|Rating Categories||Scarpa Chimera||La Sportiva Katana Lace||La Sportiva Solution||La Sportiva Futura||La Sportiva Genius|
|Specs||Scarpa Chimera||La Sportiva Katana...||La Sportiva Solution||La Sportiva Futura||La Sportiva Genius|
|Upper||Microsuede||Leather/Lorica||Leather / Lorica||Leather/Synthetic Leather||Suede leather / Microfiber|
|Lining||None||Pacific (forefoot and back)||HF in toe box and arch area only||Unlined||Unlined|
|Rubber Type||Vibram XS Grip2||Vibram XS Edge||Vibram XS Grip 2||Vibram XS Grip2||Vibram XS Grip2|
|Rubber Thickness (millimeters)||3.5 mm||4 mm||4 mm||3 mm||3 mm|
Our Analysis and Test Results
The Chimera is one of a few Scarpa shoes to feature TPS technology. That stands for Toe Power Support and it's a "thermoshapable insert" beneath the forefoot that's supposed to provide better support, enhanced pulling capabilities, and improved precision. It certainly succeeds at the pulling and precision. The Chimera feels incredibly precise and worked magic on tiny edges right out of the box. We're skeptical, however, about the support benefits of the TPS technology. Although this shoe is excellent at edges, it's also very soft which is less than ideal if you're forced to stand on those edges for a long time while you suss through a sustained techy sequence.
This shoe's performance on cracks is undermined by its aggressive downturn. This downturn curls and bunches your toes, which makes resting on wider foot jams uncomfortably painful. For thinner cracks, however, the Chimera offers a modest profile that's well-suited for rand smears or marginal jams. It might be the solution for a steep, bouldery crack project. But it's not a good choice for sustained crack test pieces.
Our testers think the Chimera is one the most comfortable shoes right out of the box. That's because its ultra-soft midsole and microsuede upper instantly conform to your feet. And as the Chimera broke in, we continued to appreciate the superior comfort it provides for an aggressively downturned model. This shoe loses a few points though, because the same ultra-soft midsole does not supply a lot of support. The Chimera is therefore a luxurious choice for bouldering and steep sport routes, but a poor choice on long vertical climbs where its suppleness is sure to tax even the strongest of feet.
The softness of the Chimera is great for detecting subtleties inside a hard to see pocket. And the shoe's overall downturn ensures that once its inside, you can apply effective force and pull your lower body into the wall. Counting against the Chimera slightly is the modestly wide shape of the toe. We were still able to squeeze it inside small pockets, but for the tiniest openings, a pointier shoe would perform better.
The Chimera's most notable attribute is its sensitivity. This is partially achieved with the split rand and ultra-soft midsole that allows your foot bend and adjust the wall angle while conforming to each individual hold. It also influenced by the thinness of the Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber. At just 3.5 mm its thinner than most shoes, allowing you to detect the smallest dimples and bumps. This extraordinary sensitivity will surely be appreciated on long-term projects or among comp climbers. But for the more casual climber, it's probably overkill, and the thin rubber simply can't provide the same durability as a thicker shoe.
Climbing shoes are expensive, and currently, none are more so than the Chimera. We expect many will balk at its $200+ dollar price tag. That's understandable, and it's not a shoe we would recommend to the recreational crowd. Instead, the Chimera fills a niche for serious climbers who are willing to pay more a shoe of exceptional quality that fits perfectly right out of the box. The Chimera may not be a great value, but its expensive price is backed up by outstanding performance.
To some, climbing is a hobby; to others, it's an all-consuming obsession. For the latter group, there's the Scarpa Chimera. This supple Italian masterpiece offers unrivaled sensitivity in an aggressive design that's ready for your overhanging mega project. Our testers were particularly impressed with its awesome comfort and fit right out of the box. It is a specialized shoe. However, that's best suited for bouldering and shorter sport routes. There are better choices for exclusive crack or pocket climbing. Nevertheless, if climbing means absolutely everything, the Chimeras are an ultra-performance pair worth checking out.
— Jack Cramer