La Sportiva Miura Review

The Vibram XS Edge rubber on the La Sportiva Miura is hard. It edges like a razor blade and effortlessly holds the down-turned toe in pockets. When new, the hardness of the rubber makes the shoe feel very stiff and imprecise, especially to lighter climbers. However, the patience to learn how to climb in this shoe is rewarded, particularly after they've softened up. Expect a longer than normal wear-in period, compared to many other La Sportiva models.

The sizing of this shoe depends on where you want to take them: size them ultra-tight (2+ sizes down from your street shoe) for your sport or bouldering projects, or just a half to a full size down for all-day adventure routes. They're so good we'd almost consider buying both sizes.

The lacing system is slick, completing an easy-to-slip-on package that provides a secure fit with minimal fiddling. They're also durable, with a tough upper and a sole that will outlast the brilliant color — as well as your first set of laces.

Edging

For years, the Miura set the standard for edging shoes, all of its iterations an improvement over the last. They have a decently down-turned shape, but their real edging power is derived from the XS Edge rubber of its sole. It doesn't have the molded P3 midsole like the other popular La Sportiva models, so you'll have to do a little more heavy lifting to get the same results when edging. This difference in the midsole doesn't seem to contribute to foot fatigue, but it may be noticeable on the really hard stuff.

Crack Climbing

This shoe is a beast, protecting your foot from all the damage you're trying to do by jamming and twisting it in cracks. The Miura has taken to the big days on big walls as well as it has to the hard sport and bouldering that it was originally designed for. It has been around for a while, though, and many shoes have come out in the last few years that are worth considering if you're looking to make the transition into trad. Depending on what margin of advantage you're looking for, the Miura will do the job almost anywhere.

Steep Terrain

The Miura is good but not great on overhanging terrain. It's not as steeply down-turned as many contemporary high-end sport shoes, but the narrow toe can still sneak into pockets and shape lets you pull yourself into the rock. It only feels less than amazing when compared to the most aggressive modern designs. This shoe is incredibly versatile, but don't expect it to thrive in very steep terrain as well as a shoe specifically engineered for that purpose.

Sensitivity

This shoe cranks on small features that you can't even feel, which is both good and bad. All the hard rubber encasing your toe lets you push down hard but significantly diminishes the sensitivity of the shoe. On the other hand, the sole's stiffness provides support, which reduces foot fatigue on long, less-than-vertical pitches.

Comfort

The Miura has to fit your footwell and be sized appropriately to wear all day. After breaking them in, these shoes can be very comfortable. Expect a reasonably long wear-in time, though. If you size this shoe for its originally intended purpose — hard sport climbing and bouldering — it won't be a wear-all-day shoe. Sized a half size to a full size down from your street shoe, it can be very comfortable on all-day routes. The Miura can be tricky to fit to your foot because it probably won't feel immediately comfortable no matter how you size it.

Value

Depending on how you use them, you may only need one shoe to meet all your climbing needs. If this is your quiver-of-one climbing shoe, then the value increases considerably. Used purely as a sport shoe and not nearly as comfortable or as adaptable as many other high-end shoes in this application, they won't do it all. They are durable, easily resoled, and a known quantity in terms of performance.

Conclusion